Typically, hellebores live a lengthy life. They remain healthy and flower freely because to the regular mulching. It is recommended to transplant or divide a hellebore in September or October even though this is not typically necessary for the plant’s health. The best way to divide a plant is to dig it up completely, wash the crown to remove any remaining dirt so you can see what you’re doing, and then cut between the growth buds with a sharp knife. The plant will heal faster if you leave at least three buds in each division.
Can hellebores be transferred when ready?
The best moment to divide a hellebore is when you are already moving it, even though you should only move them when required. In September or October is the ideal time to transplant and/or divide hellebores. The optimal time to divide hellebores is just before their autumn root growth spurt, which occurs about this time each year. This enables the rapid establishment of new roots in the plants that have just been divided.
When transferring hellebores, you should dig up the entire plant in an 8-inch-deep circle that is six inches from the outermost leaves if you want to divide the plants. Once it is freed, raise the plant off the ground, wash the crown to remove any dirt, and then use a sharp knife to cut between the growth buds so you can see what you are doing. The plant will heal faster if you leave at least three buds in each division. A least of one bud, ideally two or three, some woody rhizome tissue, and some developing roots are required for each new division. The next step is to plant each tiny transplant with lots of organic debris in a spot that is somewhat shaded and to water it well.
After that, mulch the transplants with a layer of compost or leaf mulch and keep watering them until they are established.
Are you able to divide and hoist hellebore?
I inherited a yard with a sizable collection of hellebores ten years ago; they ranged from milky white to yellow, pink with flecks, to the deepest burgundy. They flourish in this soggy Welsh garden, which receives plenty of summer light but a lot of winter gloom.
Hellebores put on a fantastic display in the late winter and early spring, but their enormous, spreading leaves do make them a big space-eater in the summer. It is advisable to perform a hellebore “audit” to make sure they are making a profit for this reason.
How to handle hellebores
The greatest season for a hellebore audit is spring, when the blooms are in full bloom. Think about where you have your hellebores planted. Additionally, consider whether the color is appropriate. Perhaps the borders are gradually becoming a neutral pink color. The plant Helleborus orientalis is promiscuous. It produces a large number of hybrid seedlings since it produces large amounts of seed and doesn’t care who it crosses with.
The prized double dark beauty I had spotted in Tyntesfield a few years ago has finally taken up residence outside my basement window, where I can enjoy the multi-petalled silk blossoms while doing the dishes. There are numerous seedlings all around it that could potentially crowd out the mother plant. It’s tough to tell if these are kids with the dark double gene or if they are yet another mid pink hybrid from a cross with a controlling neighbor.
The solution won’t be known for several years because the children won’t blossom until they are considerably older. So now is the time to pay for them, pot them up, and give them to your neighbors who are willing to take a chance.
How to divide hellebores
There are alternative, more expedient ways to add more hellebores to your collection while still knowing exactly what you are getting. If you are careful, this family does split fairly well. Just after flowering is an excellent time to do this, while you can still clearly recall what color they are!
I always remove the leaves from mine in the dead of winter to highlight the blossoms when they appear and reduce the possibility of the dreaded black spot. You must be careful not to injure them when you raise and split them in April since they are just starting to put out new leaves.
Hellebores are best separated with two hand forks inserted into their crowns because they have a lot of thick, fibrous roots. Make sure each part is sprouting some fresh leaves. Depending on the size of the clump you dig up, you could be able to double, treble, or even quadruple your supply.
I favor getting these divisions back into the border immediately where you see a hole that has to be filled in rather than patching them up. Place them where you can admire the flowers—perhaps on a bank, by some steps, or outside that basement window—a true sign of spring as we stay indoors during the bitterly cold winter.
How are hellebores dug up?
The greatest moment to divide a hellebore is when it is being transplanted. Moving these plants can be difficult, so it’s recommended to only do so when absolutely necessary. Dig up the entire plant, remove the soil, and then cut the root mass into two or three portions using a clean, sterile knife.
The next step is to plant each little transplant in a spot that is somewhat shaded, on well-worked soil, and rich in organic matter. Water the plant more frequently as it adjusts. In comparison to seed propagation, flowers should appear the following season once each part has been corrected and restored to full health.
Hellebores can be divided in the spring.
Each year, cover the soil surrounding plants with a thick layer of mulch and top it off as needed (for more information, see our guide to mulching).
An organic mulch, like homemade compost, is a fantastic way to enrich your soil with nutrients and beneficial microorganisms. Additionally, it conserves moisture and prevents weed germination.
Overwintering
Most of the commonly seen hellebores are resilient and don’t require further protection, notably the Oriental hybrids (Helleborushybridus).
H. niger dislikes sitting in cold, damp soil, therefore it need great drainage over the winter. Therefore, it is preferable to plant it in a container and maintain it in a protected area all winter (such as at the base of a south- or west-facing house wall)
H. thibetanus, a species that dislikes the wintertime rain, or H. lividus, a species that is only moderately hardy, do best when overwintered in a cool greenhouse, porch, or coldframe.
Caring for older plants
Helleborushybridus are often long-lived plants when planted in the right environment. Divide huge, aged clumps in the fall or spring to revitalize them.
Some other hellebores have a lifespan of five years or less. In late April, prune old flowers and leaves to promote fresh growth.
Oriental hybrids
To guarantee that the nodding flowers are fully shown, trim back the old leaves of Helleborus x hybridus in late winter or early spring. Additionally, this aids in reducing Hellebore leaf spot illness
These hellebores frequently self-seed, and the progeny can develop and cover the parent plant. To prevent unwanted seedlings, dig up and relocate seedlings before they grow too big or destroy seed pods before they open by cutting stems at the base.
Other hellebores
Remove the old flower stems and wilted leaves in late April after the flowers have faded to encourage new growth from the roots. If you want plants to self-seed, leave some seedpods.
By division
Most hellebores can be easily propagated by digging up the clumps and splitting them (for more information, see our guide on dividing perennials). Though you may also apply it in spring, immediately following flowering, early autumn is the best time to accomplish this.
Place the smaller clumps you have created so the first roots are 2.5 cm (1 in) below the soil’s surface when you replant them. For the initial growth season, water often until the plant is well-established.
Helleborus argutifolius, H. foetidus, H. lividus, and H. sternii can all be grown from seed but are not recommended for division.