This page’s primary language is English. If there is a discrepancy between the English text and the translation, the English text will take precedence.
The page can be translated into Spanish for free by clicking the translation link. As with any translation found online, the conversion may not accurately convey the text’s original meaning because it is not context-sensitive. The translation’s accuracy is not warranted by NC State Extension. Please be aware that when translated, some services and/or applications may not perform as intended.
A striking, vivid, and lovely way to add color and texture to your environment is with hydrangeas. Hydrangeas are difficult to resist because of their massive, eye-catching flower heads, which are unmatched in the world of shrubs. Hydrangeas are simple to grow and propagate, are tolerant of most soil types, and produce an abundance of flowers that last for several weeks or even months while bursting with vibrant color. They come in a variety of hues, such as vivid blues and pinks, icy white, dazzling white, lavender, rose, and even lime green.
Hydrangea pruning can be challenging. The variety will determine when to prune and the best methods to use. Among the most common types are the BigLeaf (H. macrophylla), Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), Mountain (H. serrata), and Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) hydrangeas. On stems from the previous season, they all bloom (“old wood).
Pruning should begin after the above kinds bloom, which typically occurs in June and July. Because the flower buds for the upcoming blossoms emerge in the late summer, avoid pruning after August 1. Cut one or two of the oldest stems all the way down to the base to promote branching and fullness. Pruning a plant to the base is necessary if it has been neglected, grown old, or suffered other damage. For the following season, you will lose the blossoms, but you will also revitalize the plant for future years.
Don’t deadhead or remove the faded blooms when pruning the large Mophead kinds for the best results. Winterize them, then trim them back in the early spring (to the first pair of healthy buds). You can deadhead several lacecap types. Reduce them to the next set of leaves beneath the blossom head. Check out this article by Alan Durden, the extension director for Macon County, for additional information about trimming hydrangeas: Hyacinth pruning
Hydrangea species like as Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) bloom on stems from the most recent season, or “new wood.” Before the flower buds form, late winter is the best time to prune these kinds. If given enough room to flourish, these types require a lot less upkeep. Typically, merely remove the dead branches from a shrub and avoid attempting to “sculpt” it.
When should hydrangeas be pruned?
Depending on which group the plant belongs to, the timing and extent of pruning are determined:
Advice on Pruning for Group 1:
- As the days get shorter and the weather gets colder in the late summer and fall, buds for the following year’s blooms start to form.
- Typically, removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches is all that is required to preserve shape, size, and a healthy plant. Otherwise, gentle pruning ought to be practiced.
- In the summer, trimming should begin as soon as flowering ends, but no later than August 1. Pruning should not be done in the fall, winter, or spring because you risk removing fresh buds.
- Tip-pruning the branches in the spring as the leaves begin to appear can promote more numerous, smaller flower heads as opposed to fewer, larger flower heads.
Advice on Pruning for Group 2:
- On the growth of the current year, flower buds form.
- Early in the spring, as the leaves are starting to emerge, prune.
- Just above a node, prune branches back by half to a third.
- After that, prune any fragile or spindly branches.
- Minimal trimming encourages huge, strong bushes with many of tiny flower heads in H. arborescens. Hard pruning between 12 and 18 inches from the ground, or even all the way down, will result in fewer but larger flower heads that may flop if unsupported.
- For H. paniculata, remove the surrounding smaller wood while leaving the larger stems in order to establish a sturdy foundation.
Pruning may be connected to flower head size. Shoots will grow more vigorously and flower heads will be bigger and fewer with more rigorous trimming. Smaller but more numerous flower heads may result from less aggressive or tip pruning.
Consideration of hydrangeas’ mature size is the best piece of advise. Place them in a location where they won’t outgrow and won’t need a lot of pruning to keep them in check. Hydrangeas don’t need to be pruned precisely or often; as long as dead wood is removed, they will remain healthy and continue to develop and bloom.
In North Carolina, how are hydrangeas cared for?
Keep mulch on roots to keep them cool. It tolerates damp soil but prefers moist, well-drained soil. Sun to light shade. Bloom on fresh wood, or wood grown in the spring and early summer, according to pruning. Late winter pruning will result in better blooming.
Cut back these shrubs in late winter before new growth begins
Shrubs that flower on young wood typically start blooming later than old-growth bloomers, beginning in June and continuing until the first frost, because they need to grow and set buds the same year that they bloom. As long as you avoid trimming when the flower buds are opening, these shrubs are understanding if it is not done at a specific period.
1. Trim the flowers all the way back for larger blooms.
These bushes can be completely removed from the ground in late winter or the beginning of spring. If cut severely like this every year, smooth hydrangeas will produce much larger flowers, but many gardeners prefer smaller blooms on stronger stems.
2. Maintain an old growth foundation to lessen flopping
Especially after watering from above or after a heavy storm, the branches of some hydrangeas frequently topple over from the weight of their blooms. Cutting the stems to a height of 18 to 24 inches will help to reduce this flopping by creating a strong framework for fresh growth.
Janet Carson is the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service’s horticulture specialist.
Receive our most recent advice, training, and tutorial videos in your inbox.
Should hydrangeas be pruned annually?
Remove crossed and dead stems, then prune the plant into shape. Pruning does not have to be done annually. These varieties can be encouraged to grow into trees. The trunk and primary branches must be developed carefully by pruning.
Should I remove the brown blooms on my hydrangea?
Your hydrangea shrubs’ blossoms appear to be withering or turning brown. No need to worry—this is merely a signal that it’s time to deadhead—remove the blossoms from the plant.
Deadheading hydrangeas doesn’t cause any damage to the plants at all. Flowering shrubs stop producing seeds when the spent blooms are removed, and instead focus their efforts on developing their roots and leaves. You will be doing your hydrangeas a favor by deadheading because this strengthens and makes plants healthier.
Can you grow hydrangeas in North Carolina?
In Eastern North Carolina, any kind of hydrangea can be cultivated, but they do demand evenly moist, well-drained soil.
With morning sun and afternoon light shade, they thrive.
The French hydrangea (macrophylla) and oakleaf hydrangea are the two most common varieties (quercifolia). There are two main flower types on French hydrangeas. The ones known as “mopheads” feature enormous, spherical or conical clusters of lovely flowers with much smaller, seed-producing flowers beneath them. With clusters of tiny seed-producing flowers and bigger showy blooms surrounding them, lacecap types have quite a different appearance.
Depending on whether the soil is acidic (pH < 6) or alkaline, both types have different colors (pH above 7). Blooms can range in color from a light blue to a deep purple in acidic soil, which is more prevalent in our region. Pink hues are frequently produced by alkaline soils. On one plant, you might even see both blossom hues. And while it is possible to modify some plants' bloom colors, I would advise sticking with what nature provides.
While French cultivars are in flower right now, oakleaf hydrangeas bloom in the late spring (early summer). The Endless Summer series is one of the rebloomers that will continue to bloom throughout the summer.
Knowing whether your hydrangea will bloom on this year’s new growth or last year’s old growth is crucial. This is important because if you prune your shrub in the late fall or early winter, you risk removing the buds for this year’s blossoms, and then you’ll wonder why your plant isn’t giving you flowers. Hydrangeas currently require very little trimming, other potentially shortening errant branches and getting rid of any dead wood. The ideal times to prune are as follows: pruning once-blooming French hydrangeas in the summer; pruning reblooming hydrangeas in the winter; and pruning oakleaf cultivars in the summer.
The lovely autumn foliage of oakleaf hydrangeas, which becomes a vibrant scarlet, is another advantage of these plants.
Therefore, even if you don’t have any of these lovely plants in your yard, you may still enjoy the blooming plants that are currently visible across the city.
When should hydrangeas be deadheaded?
These are your macrophylla hydrangeas, also known as mophead and lacecap, which come in purple, pink, and blue. They also include hydrangeas with oak-shaped leaves. While reblooming kinds flower twice, some cultivars only bloom once per season on stems from the previous year (old wood).
The initial set of hydrangea blossoms should be deadheaded as soon as they start to turn brown and dry. Cut the stem immediately above the first set of leaves and below the flower head. When this second set starts to fade, you can deadhead once again for reblooming varieties, but only until about mid-August. Your hydrangeas will then produce buds for the flowers of the next year; you don’t want to unintentionally cut these off. After the summer has ended, dried flower heads can remain on the shrubs to add visual interest over the winter.
In the fall, how far back should hydrangeas be pruned?
Trimming season for hydrangeas that bloom on new wood runs from late fall through early spring. Smooth and peegee types are in this group and perform well whether cut to the ground, trimmed lightly or left unpruned. In order to maintain a compact stature and luxuriant flowering, Peegee hydrangeas are frequently pruned into trees with one or two main stems that are between 15 and 30 feet tall.
Smooth hydrangeas can be pruned all the way to the ground; however, the more frequently they are cut, the less able their stems are to withstand the weight of their huge blooms. Smooth hydrangeas grow in mounds that are 3 to 6 feet tall and wide. When the plants are pruned to leave between 18 and 24 inches of growth, a woody base forms that helps the stems support the pompom blooms more effectively.
Do you prune hydrangeas in the spring or the fall?
Pruning is not typically thought of as one of the many gardening activities that may be done in the fall, despite the fact that there are several. It can be difficult to cultivate hydrangeas successfully in New Hampshire, and if you want your plants to blossom, there is frequently very little room for error in pruning.
Wait until Spring to prune hydrangeas
In New Hampshire, hydrangeas come in a variety of kinds, and each one has quite distinct growth patterns and pruning needs. Some plants only produce flowers on fresh growth, while others mostly produce flower buds on older wood. In any case, it is better to postpone all hydrangea pruning until spring. Hydrangeas, as with all other trees and shrubs, go dormant in the fall. Not much new growth is produced by them until the next spring. As new growth is more vulnerable to harsh cold at the location of wounds, plants that have been trimmed now run a higher risk of winter damage. Additionally, fall pruning may lessen the quantity of June blooms.
Considerations for pruning hydrangea species commonly grown in New Hampshire gardens
The gigantic blue mopheads or lacecaps known as bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla), which are familiar to most gardeners, form their flower heads at the tips of stems on old wood from the previous year. Although lower buds along the stem have the capacity to grow blooms as well, the hydrangea’s blossoming potential is decreased if those buds are died or damaged throughout the winter. Wait until new growth sprouts in the spring before pruning your bigleaf hydrangeas. Approximately 1/4 inch above the first group of live buds, prune the plant. A hint: the interior of living stems will be green, whereas the interior of dead stems will be brown. Cut completely dead stems flush with the base.
The three other hydrangea species that are frequently planted in Fresh Hampshire—oakleaf (H. quercifolia), panicle (H. paniculata), and smooth—all bloom on new growth. Before the emergence of the leaves in the late winter and early spring, remove wasted flowers and prune the plant to improve its general structure and habit.
In conclusion, there are a ton of other activities you can engage in to stay occupied in the garden during fall. Save the spring for hydrangea pruning.
Do I need to remove the Brown hydrangea leaves?
If newly emerging hydrangea leaves or flower buds are exposed to a late-spring frost or chilly winds, they will turn brown. A unexpected cold spell can harm the newly emerging buds and leaves, which are exceptionally delicate and susceptible to injury. This can cause the buds to turn brown and wither away.
Naturally, hydrangeas grow in protected regions under trees that block chilly winds and produce a more stable microclimate that allows the young flowers to open up without facing a serious risk of frost.
Hydrangeas’ newly formed buds and leaves can become mushy and their leaves can turn brown when they sustain frost damage.
Since it is more exposed to the environment, the outermost growth is typically the one that suffers from the worst damage.
Sadly, the harmed flower buds are therefore unable to bloom, and the freshly growing growth is probably not going to recover.
Frost damage to hydrangea flower buds and foliage is more common in exposed areas, so plant or move your hydrangea to a more protected area of the garden, close to your house, or close to some other plants and hedges.
Particularly hedgerows are great wind breakers since they shield your hydrangea from the elements and might lessen the effects of frost.
There isn’t much you can do to save flower buds or younger leaves after they turn brown. As a result, prune back to healthy growth any growth that has been harmed by the frost.
In contrast to the flower buds on the plant’s outermost part, which are naturally less protected, hydrangeas frequently have growing flower buds farther down each branch. These flower buds typically survive a frost.
This implies that your hydrangea can still bloom, but much later and with fewer flowers emerging. With a little patience, you should still be able to enjoy some lovely blooms throughout the Summer.