Courtesy Image favored American variety: Large, spherical mop-head blooms with blue, lavender, pink, and red-pink hues, which bloom in late summer to early fall, are characteristic of big-leaf hydrangeas. The shrub produces vivid blue flowers in acidic soil. It normally grows up to 10 feet wide and 5–10 feet tall. It should be clipped after flowering because it blooms on stems from the previous year.
Midway through August, hydrangeas take the lead as annuals and some perennials start to fade.
We value hydrangeas for their stunning flowers, which, depending on the species, might resemble enormous, fluffy softballs or bi-colored, super-sized snow cones. However, they can be temperamental and seductive at times.
Hydrangeas can be seen thriving at botanical gardens, abandoned farmhouses, and along fences and garages.
There are about 23 different species of hydrangea, and plants can reach heights of 3 to 80 feet. Some can withstand temperatures as low as minus 30 degrees, while others can’t handle much lower than 25 degrees.
In the United States, only five are frequently grown. The variety with the biggest, mop-head flowers is the big-leaf hydrangea.
With a warning, they do well throughout the majority of Michigan. Zone 6 people can only handle temperatures below minus 10 to 15 degrees. Before winter, you should plant these in a protected area and cover them with a thick layer of mulch. Radiant heat creates a small microclimate that benefits hydrangeas placed close to the foundation.
Hydrangeas are wrongly removed by homeowners who believe the winter cold killed them off. When a severe spring freeze kills the new foliage, others reach for the trowel.
In addition to freezing damage, people frequently lament that their hydrangeas don’t bloom or that the color is pallid.
Despite variations in cultivars and temperament, they frequently share a few traits.
Rich, moist soil is ideal for hydrangeas. When shielded from ferocious winter winds and sweltering summer heat, they fare better.
While mature oak-leaf hydrangeas will endure moderate drought provided the roots are kept well-mulched, hydrangeas generally thrive in cold, damp climates. In hotter climates, shadow or partial shade lessens leaf and blossom burn.
HYDRANGEAS
Mid- to late summer brings bright flowers with this landscape favorite. Here are five well-liked bands that would go well in Michigan gardens:
Late summer to early October sees the blooming of the big-leaf hydrangea’s (H. macrophylla) large, rounded mop-head flowers in shades of blue, lavender, pink, and red-pink. blooms with a vivid blue hue on acidic soil. grows up to 10 feet wide and 5–10 feet tall. Blooms on stems from the previous year; prune after flowering.
Cone-shaped flowers on oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia) emerge white and develop pink tones over time. grows to a height of 3 to 6 feet and a wider spread. The foliage is like the oak leaves. Best hydrangea for sunny, dry soil. late winter or early spring pruning (Note: Although they flower on the growth of the new season, they can be clipped once flowering is finished.)
The Asian native saw-tooth hydrangea (H. serrata) thrives in colder regions. It also goes by the name “lacecaps,” and its flat, round “disks” of individual florets have blue or pink flowers. grows equally wide and 4 feet tall. favors some shade. Blooms on stems from the previous year; prune after flowering.
Hardy (panicle, pinnacle) hydrangea (H. paniculata): July through September sees the blossoming of enormous white, pyramid-shaped flowers. grows 10 feet wide and up to 15 feet tall in full sun to partial shade. A preferred brand is Lime Light. extremely resilient to the cold. Late fall or early spring pruning. The Pinky Winky dwarf cultivar is well-liked.
Native to North America, the smoothleaf hydrangea (H. arborescens) is distinguished for its enormous snowball blossoms. Green flowers turn into pristine white flowers. grows equally wide and 5 feet tall. utter to partial shade extremely resilient to the cold. late winter or early spring pruning
With the advent of compact, less erratic hybrids like Little Lime Hardy Hydrangea and Blue Bunny Bracted Hydrangea, both from the Proven Winners line, the plant’s appeal has increased.
“Even if you prune Blue Bunny to the ground before the summer, it will still bloom, according to Ryan McGarth, a communications specialist with Proven Winners. “The foliage has unusual “fuzzy” leaves and an appealing gray-green tint.
Incrediball and Little Lime hydrangeas are better choices for colder climates because they can withstand temperatures as low as minus 30 degrees.
Flowers from Incrediball
the size of mini-basketball throughout the summer and into the fall. When mature, the flowers on its new wood can generate over 100 sizable greenish-white blooms from midsummer till frost.
Lime-green Little Lime flowers turn pink as they ripen. It blooms on new wood and is compact, just like Incrediball.
The Proven Winners range of blooming shrubs was developed by Spring Meadow Nursery Inc. in Grand Haven. The first pink-flowered variation of the Invincibelle, Invincibelle Spirit is one of its most well-liked new releases “Hydrangea named Annabelle. It won “The Independent Garden Center Show in Chicago last August awarded Best of Show.
The plant and a marketing initiative to contribute $1 from each sale of Invincibelle Spirit to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation won over the judges’ favor.
Pinky Winky, Quick Fire, Cityline Paris, Cityline Venice, and Let’s Dance Starlight are further varieties of hydrangea sold under the Proven Winners brand.
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Hydrangeas with huge leaves and oak leaves required space. Plants should be spaced at least four feet apart, and there should be four feet of headroom.
Big-leaf hydrangeas bloom on wood that was created the summer before. Early spring pruning results in fresh growth but few blossoms. When big-leaf hydrangeas have finished blooming but before the buds for the following year have formed, prune them in the summer. Dead wood can always be removed by pruning.
In addition to a paucity of blossoms, a typical issue is flowers that are a different hue from what is depicted on the nursery label.
Instead of being a blue flower as expected, this one is a sickening shade of pink, like underwear that has been washed with a red Ohio State T-shirt.
Regardless of hybrids, the pH of the soil determines the color of the flowers. Flowers with a deep blue hue are produced by acidic soil. The pinkish-white color is a result of alkaline soil.
To increase the acidity of the soil, add aluminum sulfate to the soil. If your soil is acidic and you want your blossoms to be a touch more pink, apply lime.
Tim Wood, new product development manager for Spring Meadow Nursery, recommends against getting overly fixated on flowers when planting; long-term health is more crucial.
“Wood advised building up a robust, bushy plant before worrying about the flowers with all varieties of hydrangeas. “Pruning is especially crucial during the first few years following planting since it lays the groundwork for future years.
He advised pinching or pruning the hydrangea when it was young to develop a robust, well-branched shrub. “In the long run, you get twice as many branches and more flowers when you cut off a plant’s growth tip, according to Wood.
Leggy plants can be cut back by a third to a half of their original size. “Pinch the branch tips to eliminate only the growing tip once it grows an inch or two, he advised. “This point regulates branching. Two or more stems will grow from the buds at the bottom.
In order to allow flower buds to form, Wood advises pinching or light shearing the second year. Then, stop.
“This method produces a well-branched, well-bodied plant that will have more flowers in following years, despite the potential bloom sacrifice, according to Wood.
Can you grow hydrangeas in Michigan?
One of the most well-liked summer-flowering shrubs in gardens are hydrangeas, with their large, gorgeous, and vibrant flower heads. In addition to complementing perennials and evergreens well, they add interest from spring through October.
Although there are many different hydrangea species, some are more adapted to the environment of Michigan than others.
The hardiest hydrangeas that can withstand Michigan winters and reliably bloom each year without extra maintenance or pruning are listed below.
Arborescence or smooth hydrangeas: Only white or pink flower blossoms are produced. You cannot alter the color of their flowers.
- White Annabelle flowers
- Amazing white flowers
- Incrediball pink blush-colored flowers
- Pink flowers in Incibelle GarnettaNew 2021
- White flowers, Incibelle Limetta
- Pink flowers, Invincibelle Mini Mauvette
- Ruby-pink Invincibelle flowers
- Pink blossoms, Invincibelle Spirit II
- Flowers of the genus Invincibelle Wee WhiteDwarf
- Petiolariswhite lacecap flowers don’t bloom right away after being planted in the ground; they need some kind of support to climb up, such as a tree, trellis, wall, or arbor.
All of the Paniculata or Summer Hydrangea have white flowers that progressively turn pink as they get older. You cannot alter the color of their flowers.
- Bobowhite blossoms turn pale pink in age.
- White flowers in a firelight fade to crimson or pink.
- White blooms in the dwarf new variety of 2021 turn crimson or pink.
- Fire & Icewhite blossoms turn red or pink as they age.
- White blossoms turn pale pink as they age.
- The white blossoms of Limelight PrimeDwarfNew 2021 turn pink.
- Small lime-dwarf white blossoms turn pale pink with age.
- White Little Quick FireDwarf blooms that turn red or pink
- Pinky Winkywhite blossoms turn bright pink as they age.
- Phantomwhite blooms turn delicate pink as they age.
- White blooms quickly turn crimson or pink.
- Instant FabDwarf
- new 2021 white blossoms turn brilliant pink as they age
- White blossoms from Strawberry Sundae fade to pale pink.
- Vanilla Strawberrywhite blooms turn strawberry pink as they age.
- Zinfin Dollwhite blossoms turn brilliant pink as they age.
Quercifolia or Oakleaf Hydrangea: These all have white flowers that turn pink as they get older. You cannot alter the color of their flowers. Their uniquely shaped leaves change from green to burgundy or purple in the fall, creating a stunning display of color.
How should hydrangeas be cared for in Michigan?
Colorful flowering bushes called hydrangeas can bloom for weeks on end and are unaffected by pests or diseases. The showy parts of the blooms aren’t actually flower petals, which is why they continue for such a long time. They are spectacular, sterile, multicolored sepals that are colorful to draw pollinating insects. The fertile flowers are typically located in the center of the cluster and are relatively tiny and unnoticeable. The “flower show” is prolonged because the sepals cannot be pollinated, which prevents them from going to seed.
Partially shaded hydrangeas grow on wet, forested soil that has been improved with peat moss and leaf mold. Throughout the growing season, give them enough of water for the greatest results.
When it comes to hydrangeas that won’t bloom, two words to keep in mind are “too much. Although hydrangeas thrive in moderate shade, excessive shade can lead to stunning leaves without any flowers. Too much fertilizer, particularly heavy nitrogen fertilizer, may also be a concern. Again, this will result in lovely leaves but few, if any, blossoms. When they begin to blossom, use a balanced fertilizer, such as 16-16-16. Lack of blossoms can also be caused by excess moisture or dryness.
The majority of big leaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla, popularly known as “mopheads”) bloom on old wood from the previous season and are consistently hardy to hardiness zone 6. Mophead hydrangeas in Michigan need be protected to ensure flowering. For the hydrangea to produce blooms the next summer, the old wood must remain. “Nikko Blue” is a mophead variety that was one of the only comparatively resilient big-leaf varieties offered for a long time. However, many gardeners preserve it in the early winter by wrapping the shrub in dead tree leaves and covering it with burlap or an upside-down bushel basket.
Place them close to the house, on the north or east side. This is a crucial decision. They would be exposed to the afternoon sun on the south or west side, which is too hot in the summer and increases the possibility of bud damage in the winter. Big leaf hydrangeas don’t bloom as much due to unexpectedly cold weather following a mild winter. The buds freeze and the hydrangea won’t bloom if the plant is actively growing when it receives a late spring or early winter frost.
Improper pruning is another frequent cause of macrophylla hydrangeas failing to bloom. Once more, the majority of hydrangeas flower on wood from the previous year. You won’t receive blossoms if you prune too much old wood or if you cut that wood too late. Because these types set their buds after late summer bloom, spring trimming would eliminate the flowers for that year. The flowering stems should be cut back to a healthy pair of buds or shoots shortly after bloom in late summer. As new growth appears, just the dead wood needs to be pruned in the spring.
Many customers ask why their hydrangeas aren’t blooming. The primary reasons hydrangeas don’t bloom are incorrect pruning, bud damage due to winter and/or early spring weather, location and too much fertilizer.
There are hydrangea kinds that bloom on either fresh or old wood, or even both. Both new and old wood are the growth of the following year (spring), respectively.
- Consider that this year, you bought a Nikko Blue Hydrangea. For the next year, Nikko’s produce blooms in the fall. Your Nikko is therefore creating blooms this fall that will blossom in the spring.
- Therefore, you wouldn’t want to completely prune your Nikko Blue Hydrangea this fall while you are pruning your perennials. Pruning the Nikko Blue Hydrangea this fall would effectively mean cutting off your hydrangea flowers for the upcoming spring.
- The idea behind Endless Summer, a hydrangea variety that blooms on both old and new wood, is that the plant will set blooms this fall to blossom not only in the spring of the following year, but will also keep producing blooms in the spring of the following year to extend the blossoms into the summer.
- Once more, pruning your Endless Summer hydrangea in the fall would mean removing some of the flowers that would blossom in the spring.
The hydrangea’s plant tag will indicate whether it blooms on fresh wood, old wood, or both. It is typically preferable to wait until spring to prune your hydrangeas. As the plant grows, you’ll see stems that are fragile when bent and lack any leaves. Since these stems are dead and won’t produce any flowers, they should be clipped close to the plant’s base.
The second reason why your hydrangeas aren’t blooming is probably the weather. Buds of hydrangeas are extremely susceptible to cold. Therefore, it is a good idea to wrap your hydrangea for the winter if it is an old wood hydrangea. Keep in mind that old wood hydrangeas establish their blooms for the following spring in the fall. Therefore, you won’t have blossoms in the spring if the fall-produced buds are frozen in the winter.
You can wrap anything with regular burlap. Burlap should be wrapped around the plant and filled with mulch or leaves after the first hard frost and after the hydrangea’s leaves have dropped. In order for the buds to survive the winter and sprout the following spring, the plant receives insulation from this. Never wrap your hydrangeas in plastic. When warmer winter days arrive, the plant cannot breathe since plastic, unlike burlap, doesn’t breathe. As a result, the plant can heated to such high temperatures that it cooks within the plastic and perishes.
The second most frequent weather-related cause hydrangeas do not blossom is late spring killing frosts. We saw really chilly temperatures in April both this year and last year after beautiful spring days. When springtime temperatures drop below freezing, hydrangeas need to be covered with an old beach towel or sheet. Because of the temperature dip, there won’t be any blossoms.
The majority of hydrangeas require at least 3 to 4 hours of light per day to bloom. The best light is in the early morning, midday light is acceptable if it is dabbled light rather than beating sun, and afternoon sun is typically too hot. Check the plant label, though. Newer hydrangea cultivars are being created that can withstand more sun exposure time and sun intensity. A hydrangea in full sun will require much more watering than one in diffused light, so keep that in mind.
High nitrogen fertilizer should not be used to feed hydrangeas. Nitrogen is indicated by the first number on the fertilizer ratio. (The ratio stands for N, P, and K) For healthy leaves and general good growth, some nitrogen (N) is required; however, a ratio of 8-16-6 or any similar combination with a higher middle or phosphorus (P) value is preferred. The growth of roots and shoots is encouraged by phosphorus, which improves the blooming process.
Potash (K), the third element’s last quantity and the lowest ratio, is for plant hardiness. Because hydrangeas prefer acidic soil, they can be fertilized with fertilizers designed for such plants. Hydrangeas only require fertilizing twice a year, once in early spring and once in mid-summer. To avoid root burn, make sure the soil is always moist before applying a fertilizer.