Mophead hydrangeas can be cultivated outside wherever the wintertime temperature stays above -15oC because they are hardy (5oF). However, as they were grown in greenhouses and given fertilizer to induce early flowering, potted hydrangeas sold as houseplants may require some time to acclimate to life outside before being put out. Place them outside in their pots during the day and bring them inside at night to harden them off for one to two weeks before to planting. Hydrangeas that have been grown for outdoor planting can be planted immediately. Mid- to late April, when the soil has had time to warm up, is the ideal time to plant mophead hydrangeas outdoors.
The optimal conditions for hydrangeas are shade from the sweltering afternoon sun and moist, well-drained soil. They are therefore excellent alternatives for shady gardens, and in mid- and late-summer, their dramatic spherical flowerheads are absolutely gorgeous. Regularly water hydrangeas, especially during dry spells, and in the spring or fall, mulch with compost or other organic material.
Because of the soil’s pH (acidity or alkalinity), pink and blue mophead hydrangea blossoms have the unusual ability to change color. The blossoms will be a deeper shade of blue the more acidic the environment is. Flowers turn a gorgeous pink on alkaline soil. The color of white mophead hydrangeas doesn’t alter.
When can hydrangeas in pots be placed outside?
“For Mother’s Day, my daughter handed me a lovely hydrangea. It has done so wonderfully that I’m curious if I should plant it outside or keep it within as a houseplant.”
Hydrangeas with foil encircling the pot, whether they were a gift or something you bought yourself, frequently differ from those bought at a nursery. The foil-wrapped hydrangea is often grown for a single, grand performance. The plant has been specifically fed to produce a lot of huge blooms quickly, frequently at the price of the plant’s long-term health.
The hydrangeas selected for this project are exclusively grown in greenhouses and might not be winter hardy where they are purchased.
If your locale isn’t warm enough to cultivate hydrangeas outdoors, you might wonder if you can grow them indoors as a houseplant.
A. There are a variety of reasons why growing hydrangeas inside in a home environment is not particularly successful. When hydrangeas may experience a period of dormancy brought on by chilly weather, they thrive. Hydrangeas rarely blossom indoors, attract insects, and lose their leaves unless they are in a greenhouse. They frequently dry out too rapidly and wilt, which makes them weaker.
However, some gift/florist-type hydrangeas may be grown extremely well in the landscape, as you can see from the images below.
Although growing hydrangeas indoors is not the optimal answer, it is conceivable if one lives in an apartment or in an area where they cannot survive:
1) Put the hydrangea in the coolest part of your house; ideally, an unheated room.
2) Position it close to a window so that it receives the most light possible.
The third and most crucial tip is to not overwater the plant by letting it sit in water or by watering it too frequently. It’s preferable to keep it dry during the winter, but it shouldn’t ever get too dry that it wilts.
Whenever possible, it is ideal to plant the potted hydrangea outside. It should only be planted outside in the early to mid-summer because it needs time to get used to the weather before winter.
In conclusion, unless it may be planted in the garden, foil-wrapped hydrangeas are best employed as a temporary plant in a person’s home.
Can I put my hydrangea plant in a pot outside?
You’ll be relieved to learn that winter maintenance needs little work. The best place for your hydrangeas to spend the winter is outside, so now that you’ve put them inside the garage, you may carry them back there.
Hydrangeas are quite cold hardy, thus in the majority of hardiness zones you may leave them on your patio unprotected. Some people can survive in zone 2, where it can reach as chilly as -40 C, perfectly well! Ouch. Although they can all withstand a certain amount of cold, each hydrangea has a different tolerance, so be sure you have a variety that is suitable for your region. Additionally, zone up if you are planting in a container! (See underneath.)
Make sure the containers they’re placed in have enough drainage, as the plants can suffer major harm from inadequate drainage. If not, your hydrangeas will flourish just fine and require the same upkeep and attention as they would in a garden.
Zone up those container plants
Zone up for success if you intend to grow a perennial in a pot! Your plants are less protected from the cold in a container than they would be on the ground. So, for instance, if you are in zone 4, I would advise choosing a plant species that is hardy to zone 3.
What degree of cold is too cold for hydrangeas in pots?
Many people were dissatisfied last year because their hydrangea shrubs produced few, if any, flowers. It was assumed that the particularly hard winter was to blame.
There are numerous hydrangea species, but the majority of them that are grown by homeowners in their gardens belong to the genus Hydrangea macrophylla.
The two groupings of H. macrophylla are distinguished by the appearance of their flowers. The mopheads have a broad, rounded shape and can range in color from red to pink to white to blue to green and many colors in between. Similar in color, the lacecaps are flattened corymbs with fertile blooms in the center and spectacular clusters of sepals of various sizes around them.
Hardiness zones 6 to 9 apply to H. macrophylla. A hydrangea should, in theory, be able to withstand temperatures as low as -10 degrees. However, in the real world, temperatures as low as 12 degrees and freezes in the late fall or early spring may limit this hydrangea’s ability to flower.
H. macrophylla forms its bloom buds in the summer and the fall in response to the shorter days and chilly temperatures. To achieve bud dormancy, the bud must be refrigerated for 1,000–1,200 hours, or roughly seven weeks.
As the weather gets warmer, buds open, shoots appear, and blooms grow. Flower buds and vegetative stems will perish if this happens at the end of February, as it did last year and may do this year as well. In the spring, the plant might grow again from the root, but it won’t produce flowers. It has sturdy roots, but delicate flower buds.
On fresh wood, on the woody stems from the current year, H. macrophylla flowers. If a shrub needs to be pruned, it should have been done last year when the blooming season had just ended. Avoid pruning it. You will now remove any budding flower buds.
I have been growing my favorite variety of H. macrophylla for almost 15 years, and it is called “Blue Billows.”
Dr. Richard Lighty of the Mount Cuba Center in Hockessin, Delaware, originally grew this lacecap, Hydrangea serrata, from seed gathered in the Korean mountains. The inner fertile flowers are a darker blue than the outer sterile blossoms, which are blue with a pink blush.
Before relatively recently, the taxonomists classified the H. serrata variation as a distinct species from the macrophylla. It possesses each of the traits that distinguish H. macrophylla from other species. The leaves are smaller, though, and it has a stunning copper-red fall color. From June to October, the plant blooms; as fall approaches, the blossoms turn over to reveal pink undersides.
It is situated for me in some moderate shade with drained soil. They call it a “robust plant.
Most recently, the big root ball split in two when I moved it to a shadier spot. I then discovered that it had sucker-grown or air-layered three smaller plants.
It is a dense shrub that grows to be about 3 feet tall and wide, and it is so covered in leaf and flowers that I was unaware I had four additional plants until I started to move it.
This low-maintenance shrub works well as a border shrub or as a foundation plant. And it will offer you profusion that you can keep or gift to others as a reward. It was chosen by the Pennsylvania Horticulture Society in 1990 as a Gold Medal Plant.
Depending on the amount of aluminum ions in the soil, the color of the flower varies. In more acidic soils, the concentration is higher, whereas in more alkaline soils, it is lower. For the majority of H. macrophylla and H. serrata cultivars, acidic soil (pH 5.5 and below) will result in blue flowers, whereas neutral to alkaline soils (pH 6.5 and higher) will typically result in pink flowers. The blooms will be purple or a combination of blue and pink blossoms will be seen on the same plant between pH 5.5 and pH 6.5.
The most constant guideline for growing hydrangeas, though, is that there is a lot of variety and no absolutes.
At this time of year, Hydrangea arborescens is another hydrangea that merits discussion. It also appears as lacecap and mophead flowers. The names “Annabelle,” “Invincible Spirit,” and “Grandiflora” are a few well-known cultivars. All of these flower on fresh wood. Cut them to the ground now, in late winter, and apply a mild fertilizer.
Place a support structure around the plant before it starts to grow since the flowers are frequently too heavy for the stems to keep the plant upright.
The new plant will start to bloom in June or July and continue to do so for several weeks.
As the petals wilt, cut the stem at the base and remove the leaves if you want to dry them. Cut them to the length you want, then hang them backwards. They make wonderful dried flowers and can be sprayed with spray paint to add color.
What degree of heat do hydrangeas require protection from?
One of the simplest shrubs to grow is the hydrangea. Hydrangeas are easy maintenance plants that provide your garden with months of huge, bright flower decoration. However, it’s crucial to understand how to protect hydrangeas from cold as summer ends and winter sneaks up on us. This entails hydrangea cold tolerance. Some types, such as the panicle or PG hydrangea and the smooth hydrangea (“Annabelle”), are extremely cold-hardy and bloom on new wood.
You don’t need to be concerned about hydrangea winter kill if these species are present in your yard. They don’t need to be protected unless it is below minus 30 degrees Fahrenheit (-34 C.). In most cases, protecting these plants also involves leaving the old growth during the winter, which can contribute to the winter’s visual appeal.
The preceding growth season is when all of the other hydrangea kinds, including the well-liked big leaf, produce their flowers. For you to see blooming the following summer, these tender buds must endure the winter. You should find out how to avoid winter kill on hydrangeas if you plan to plant big leaf or another variety that blooms on old wood.
How are outside potted hydrangeas maintained?
Since a small container on the kitchen table is not the optimal location, store-bought potted hydrangeas frequently wither away. Hydrangeas prefer a lot of water and sunlight. While the water can be obtained by moving it to a larger container that doesn’t dry out as quickly, the sun can be obtained indoors by placing it in a south-facing window. Garden hydrangeas prefer full sun, but this rapidly dries out the soil in pots. To prevent drying out, plant your hydrangeas in a location that receives full sun in the morning and some afternoon shade.
Replace the pot your hydrangea is in with one that is several inches (8 cm) bigger in diameter and includes drainage holes. Leave a gap of about three inches (8 cm) between the potting mix’s surface and the pot’s rim. Fill the pot to the full with water, let it drain, and then repeat to water your container-grown hydrangea plants.
The subsequent care of hydrangea containers is also rather simple. Hydrangeas have the potential to grow to be enormous. You have two options: you either cut your full-sized hydrangea back or start out with a dwarf type. Just make sure you have the right variety before you prune. On both young and old growth, hydrangeas produce flowers. Avoid mistakenly removing all of the summer’s potential blossoms with pruning.
Hydrangeas in containers need some care over the winter. Place your container in a garage or basement that is cool but not frigid. Bring it back outside when spring temps rise and moderately water it.
Do hydrangeas like shade or the sun?
With the ideal balance of morning sun and afternoon shade, hydrangeas flourish. Even the sun-loving Hydrangea paniculata will thrive in some shade. Some hydrangea cultivars may survive complete shadow, though.
The oakleaf hydrangea, also known as hydrangea quercifolia, is a substantial species of hydrangea that may reach heights of up to eight feet. In a shade garden, this big bush makes a beautiful backdrop. The height will provide excellent midsummer seclusion. Oakleaf hydrangeas are summer bloomers with mostly white blooms, elegant oakleaf-shaped leaves, and lovely peeling bark.
Hydrangea anomala ssp. petiolaris is another choice for full shade. This climbing species, which has lacy, white blossoms in the summer, can reach a height of 50 feet if it is given adequate support. The foliage is a rich shade of green and would look wonderful growing up a tree trunk or covering the face of a building. It would also look lovely covering the roof of a garden shed.
Full shade cultivars require the same upkeep as partial shade. In the deeper shade, it will be especially crucial to keep the plants free of leaf litter and with excellent airflow. Water your plant once a week after it has become established. Keep a watch on the leaves, and if you notice any drooping, especially during the hot summer months, water them right away. The importance of this increases in hotter regions.
These leaves’ unique shape would be a lovely complement to Hosta leaves. The white blossoms would contrast nicely with the lighter hues of your shady blooms and provide some brilliant brightness to your shaded locations.
Shade Varieties
There are a few different hydrangea cultivars that thrive in the shade. Some types can even thrive in zones 3 (which doesn’t warm up until later in the spring), which is one of the coldest growing regions. Let’s examine some of the best shade selections!
Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Snow queen’
The movie “Snow queen” is stunning. The flowers are stunning, as they are with all hydrangeas. These rose blush-colored blossoms appear in the middle of summer. The foliage of this plant is my favorite component. The leaves begin the season in a very deep green, gradually changing to a deep reddish bronze color, and finally finishing in that shade, offering a stunning splash of color to your fall landscape.
Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Alice’
With a height ranging between 12 and 15 feet, this Oakleaf Hydrangea is one among the biggest. In the summer, this plant blooms with incredibly deep cream-colored flowers. A woodland garden would be a truly lovely place for “Alice.” This cultivar would look especially beautiful if it were grown as a bordering hedge.
Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’
‘Annabelle’ enjoys partial shade and has some of the largest flowers in the hydrangea family (12 inches wide!). These enormous blossoms can be supported all season long by the sturdy stalks. This shrub can grow up to five feet tall and five feet broad, so give it plenty of area to expand. These enormous, all-white blossoms bloom for a long time.
In a mass planting, as a specimen shrub, or as a foundation planting, “Annabelle” would look lovely. These bushes should still be included in your cutting garden. Imagine a bunch of flowers that large! Wow!