What’s Wrong With Petunia Turn Light Green Youtube

by Paul Fisher and Erik Runkle

Numerous well-known spring garden plants, like calibrachoa and petunia, thrive in low media pH environments (5.4 to 5.8). Iron in the root zone is less accessible to these crops when the pH rises over 6.2, which is too high for these crops. Interveinal chlorosis, a pale green or yellow hue between leaf veins, is the most typical sign of a high media pH. (Figure 1). The symptoms can worsen and include bleaching of the most recent leaves and leaf necrosis when the media pH rises (tissue death). The only way to stop necrosis once it starts is to produce new, healthy leaves to cover the wounds.

One of a grower’s primary objectives should be to maintain an ideal media pH. Weekly easy in-house media tests should be performed to measure the electrical conductivity (EC) and pH of diverse crops. A shift in these numbers over time may prompt a grower to make minor corrections to reversal unfavorable tendencies. The type of fertilizer might be changed to one with a more acidic reaction (with more ammoniacal nitrogen), for instance, if the media pH rises over the required range, or acid could be added into the irrigation water (or its dosage raised) to lower its alkalinity. Because low EC might result from insufficient fertilizer, which can induce chlorosis, EC testing is vital.

Unfortunately, among commercial farmers, routine internal soil testing is still not all that prevalent. Therefore, medium pH issues typically become apparent when crops exhibit symptoms, which in most cases had been developing for several weeks. A corrective action must be made when the symptoms are mild in severity in an effort to sell the crop. Plant chlorosis can be caused by a variety of factors, including inadequate root systems or root diseases like Pythium, although the most frequent culprit is a high media pH. Therefore, before taking corrective action, check the roots and measure the pH of the media.

Iron can be added as a substrate drench if the media pH is high and a rapid repair is required. Due to its pH-independent solubility, iron EDDHA is the most potent form of iron. Sequestrene 138 and Sprint 138 are two products with iron EDDHA as one of its ingredients. 5 ounces of iron EDDHA per 100 gallons of water is the recommended drench application rate; this yields 22 ppm of iron. To prevent leaf burn, this solution should be generously applied to the leaves before being quickly rinsed off. In most cases, a single spray “greens up plants within a week. A second application may be submitted if necessary.

When the media pH is high, not all types of chelated iron are equally effective (Figure 2). Iron DTPA and iron EDTA are less soluble at high pHs, while EDDHA is soluble over a wide pH range. Iron EDDHA is hence the favored form, with iron EDTA often being only partially useful until the pH is below 6.2.

Crops that thrive at low media pHs include bacopa, diascia, lantana, nemesia, pansy, scaevola, snapdragon, and vinca in addition to calibrachoa and petunia. You can use the same pH reduction techniques and/or an iron-EDDHA drench to generate higher-quality crops if these plants start to get chlorotic. Avoid applying iron to plants that require a high pH (over 6.0), like marigolds and geraniums, as this might result in irreparable iron toxicity.

Erik Runkle and Paul Fisher

You can contact Erik Runkle, an associate professor and floriculture extension specialist in the horticulture department at Michigan State University, at [email protected]. Contact Paul Fisher at [email protected], a professor and floriculture extension specialist in the environmental horticulture department at the University of Florida.

Why are my petunias’ colors changing?

Petunias can be produced from potted plants or from seeds that are started early indoors and moved outside after a frost.

Indoor Seed Sowing

  • Use a seed starting kit to indoor sow petunia seeds eight to ten weeks before the last frost.
  • Seeds should be thinly sown and barely pressed into seed starter mix. Don’t bury under earth.
  • At 70 to 75 degrees, keep the soil moist.
  • Seedlings appear after 10 to 14 days.
  • As soon as seedlings appear, give them lots of light on a sunny windowsill or grow them 3–4 inches beneath 16–hour-per-day fluorescent plant lights that are off for eight hours at night. As the plants get taller, turn up the lights. Because they will become too hot, incandescent bulbs will not function in this process. Do not leave lights on continuously for 24 hours; most plants need a time of darkness to flourish.
  • when they have two sets of leaves, thin to one seedling per cell.
  • Seedlings don’t require a lot of fertilizer; feed them when they are 3–4 weeks old with a starter solution (half the strength of an indoor plant food), as directed by the manufacturer.
  • After the first frost, transplant hardened-off seedlings into the garden.
  • Seedling plants must be “hardened off” before being planted in the garden. By relocating young plants to a protected area outside for a week, you can acclimate them to outside circumstances. At first, be sure to shield them from the wind and the light. If frost is expected at night, cover or bring pots inside; then, in the morning, reintroduce them to the outdoors. The plant’s cell structure is toughened during the hardening off process, which also lessens transplant shock and scorching.

In the Garden, Plant Potted Plants:

  • Choose a place with good, rich, moist, well-drained organic soil and full sun.
  • Turn the soil under to a depth of 8 inches to prepare the bed. To get rid of grass and stone clumps, level the area using a rake.
  • The majority of plants do well in soils that have had organic matter added. Compost is a beautiful organic material that can be applied to your planting area whenever you like. It has the perfect pH level and nutrient balance. If compost is not available, topdress the soil with 1-2 inches of organic mulch after planting; this mulch will break down into compost over time. Following the growth season, a soil test will reveal what soil amendments are required.
  • In the garden, plants should be spaced 6 to 12 inches apart.
  • For each plant, create a hole that is sufficiently large to hold the root ball.
  • Set the top of the root ball so that it is level with the dirt around it. Up to the top of the root ball, cover with soil.
  • Your hand should firmly push the earth down, leaving a small depression to hold water around the plant.
  • Water deeply until a puddle appears in the saucer you have made. As a result, there is strong root-to-soil contact and the plants become established.
  • Use the plant tag to indicate its location.

How to Grow

  • Keep weeds under control while the plants are growing. Weeds compete with plants for water, space, and nutrients, therefore keep them in check by frequently cultivating or by using a mulch to stop the germination of their seeds.
  • Mulches also support stable soil temperatures and moisture retention. Shredded leaves used as an organic mulch for annual plants give the bed a more natural appearance and, as they decompose over time, enrich the soil. Mulches should never be placed on a plant’s stems to avoid potential decay.
  • During the growing season, make sure plants are well-watered, especially during dry spells. The growing season requires roughly 1 inch of rain every week for plants. To determine whether you need to add water, use a rain gauge. The optimum irrigation method is a drip or trickling system that releases water at low pressure directly into the soil. To reduce disease issues, water early in the day if you want to use overhead sprinklers so the foliage has time to dry before dusk. Maintain a moist but not saturated soil.
  • Some protection from strong winds and intense sunlight may be required until plants grow established. Additionally essential is good airflow.
  • A mild fertilizer can be administered after new growth starts to show. To prevent burn damage, keep granular fertilizers away from the plant’s top and leaves. Use moderate amounts of a slow-release fertilizer because greater amounts could promote root rots.
  • To promote flowering and stop the production of seeds, remove wasted flower spikes. Plants’ growth tips can be pinched to promote bushiness.
  • Observe for illnesses and pests. For advice on pest management measures that are suitable for your area, contact your cooperative extension service.
  • In order to prevent disease problems the next year, remove plants that have been killed by frost in the fall.

Growing Tips

  • Cut back straggly petunia plants by half in the late summer to promote growth and the development of new flowers.
  • Petunias make lovely edging plants and can be used in mixed plantings with other annuals that bloom in the summer. They look fantastic alone or in combination with other flowers in pots of different shapes and sizes.
  • Hummingbirds and moths are drawn to the yard by petunias.

Common Disease Problems

Aster Yellows: Plants grow excessively, become stunted, and develop witch’s brooms. Their petals also turn green and become malformed. Leafhoppers propagate this virus-like ailment. Burpee advises removing diseased plants and managing leafhopper populations. Eliminate any weeds in the area that the illness can also live on.

Botrytis: This fungus turns flowers, leaves, stalks, and buds a greyish color. It thrives in chilly, rainy weather. Burpee advises removing the damaged plant sections, avoiding watering at night, and not watering directly on the plant. Make sure plants receive adequate airflow. For advice on fungicides, get in touch with local cooperative extension service.

One of the most frequent issues when beginning plants from seed is damping off. The seedling appears healthy when it first emerges, but then it mysteriously begins to droop and die. A fungus that causes damping off is active when there is a lot of moisture present when the soil, air, and temperature are above 68 degrees F. This typically means that the soil is either too moist or heavily fertilized with nitrogen. Burpee advises keeping seedlings moist but not overwatering them, avoiding overfertilizing them, thinnng out seedlings to prevent overcrowding, ensuring the plants have good air circulation, and if you are planting in containers, washing them thoroughly in soapy water and rinsing them in a 10% bleach solution after use.

Fasciation is the unnatural flattening of stems, which can give them the impression of being joined. Often, distortion starts to appear in the plant’s base. It usually enters the plant through a wound and is brought on by a virus or bacteria. Burpee advises being extremely cautious when handling plants. Any plants that exhibit disease symptoms should be removed and destroyed.

When the weather is humid, a fungus illness known as powdery mildew develops on the tops of the leaves. The surface of the leaves seems to be white or grayish, and they may curl. Burpee advises giving the plants adequate air circulation through optimum spacing and pruning in order to prevent powdery mildew. For advice on fungicides, get in touch with local cooperative extension service.

Common Pest and Cultural Problems

Aphids are disease-carrying sucking insects that feed on the undersides of leaves and can be green, red, black, or peach in color. On the foliage, they deposit a sticky substance that draws ants. Burpee advises attracting or introducing aphid-eating predators like lady beetles and wasps into your garden. You can also use an insecticidal soap or a powerful spray to wash them away.

Cyclamen mite: By suckling juice from leaves and stems, these mites harm plants. They proliferate quickly in hot, dry conditions. They are only seen with the aid of a magnifying glass. Plants may not blossom and will appear stunted and deformed. Flowers will have streaks, blotches, and distortions. The leaves may cup, curve, get smaller and thicker. Burpee’s Advice Infested plants should be thrown away. Don’t work with plants that are infected. In dry conditions, keep plants well-watered. For advice on insecticides for severe infestations, contact local cooperative extension service.

Leafhoppers: These insects damage leaves and retard growth. Moreover, they spread sickness. Burpee advises clearing up plant detritus. Use soaps with insecticides. For additional advice on insecticides, contact local cooperative extension service.

Spider mites: These minuscule insects, which resemble spiders, are approximately the size of a peppercorn. They can be yellow, brown, black, red, or black. They ingest plant liquids, sucking out chlorophyll and injecting poisons that leave the foliage with white spots. On the plant, webbing is frequently seen. They cause the leaf to stipple, dry, and become yellow. They proliferate swiftly and do best in dry environments. Burpee’s Advice Every other day, a strong spray can help control spider mites. Try using insecticidal soap or hot pepper wax. For advice on miticides, contact your local Cooperative Extension Service.

Thrips: Thrips are little, straw- or black-colored, needle-like insects. They attack flower petals, leaves, and stems while sucking plant liquids. The leaf surface of the plant will show stippling, discolored flecking, or silvering. Numerous illnesses can be transported from plant to plant by thrips. Burpee advises placing sheets of aluminum foil between plant rows to deter many thrips. After the first frost, remove all weeds from the bed and any debris. For information on pest control, contact your cooperative extension service.


Why did my petunias produce a stripe or change color in the summer? Petunias can change color or develop a stripe when it becomes too warm since they are sensitive to high temperatures. New blooms will return to their original hue as the weather cools.

What petunia has self-cleaning qualities? Petunias of the Wave variety, including “Baby Duck,” are all self-cleaning and don’t need to be deadheaded.

Why are “Shock Wave” petunia seeds different from standard petunia seeds? For convenience of handling, “Shock Wave” petunia seeds are pelleted. The covering will degrade once seeds are pressed into the soil and can be misted off.

What draw something to the garden? Hummingbirds, butterflies, bees, and other helpful insects are drawn to petunias.

I need Wave petunias for a 12-inch hanging basket, how many should I buy? For a 12-inch hanging basket, three Wave-varieties plants and four other mounding-habit species are the perfect number.

When petunias are overwatered, what do they look like?

Overwatered petunias will appear unhappy and forlorn. Its leaves may have edematous white patches on them. Additionally, its leaves could prematurely yellow and drop off. Your petunias may also wilt in extreme overwatering situations.

How come my petunias appear faded?

Why are my flowers dying, you may be wondering? There are some flowers that are extremely sensitive to heat and sunlight. The flowers lose their vibrant colors when they are overexposed to the sun or heat. Many flowers like filtered afternoon light and dawn sunlight.

The fact that flowers typically deteriorate after pollination is one of the additional explanations of faded bloom color. After being pollinated, flowers stop needing to entice their pollinating suitors and start to fade.

When under stress, flowers may also lose their color or change in texture. A plant that has recently been transplanted may experience this. Before getting too worried, give the plant some time to adjust to its new environment.

Age tends to make some bulbous plants, including daffodils and gladioli, fade. Gardeners often pull out old bulbs and swap them out for fresh ones for this reason.

Finally, the alteration or fading of floral color may be brought on by soil acidity. Hydrangeas are a well-known example of this phenomena since they appear to be particularly sensitive to the level of acid in the soil.