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A reader has the following inquiry:
Any recommendations for perennials that may be planted alongside spring bulbs this fall and that will appear after the tulips and daffodils bloom, cover their leaves, and then gradually turn yellow? Along the wall of my carport, in a south-facing area with plenty of sun and sufficient drainage.
Last year, I discussed Claudia Kolbe-method Hawthorne’s for creating waves of color in her garden beds in the Cheektowaga neighborhood of Cleve-Hill. Hyacinths, daffodils, and a profusion of vibrant tulips are among her blooms.
Around the bulbs, she grows perennials like columbine, dianthus, coneflowers, coreopsis, and sedum so that those plants can conceal the withering leaves. Visit this location to take a tour of her spring garden.
Do you have any other recommendations for perennial plants to place around your spring bulbs? If so, kindly comment below for Val.
So when someone asks me a question that I am unable to answer, I post it and rely on my viewers to contribute their knowledge. Please leave a remark below if you have any suggestions for Val. Check back later to read the comments if you’re interested in learning the solution to this query.
Asking Master Gardeners with Cornell Cooperative Extension or visiting your neighborhood garden center are more effective ways to have your questions answered.
Other counties also have useful Cornell Cooperative Extension offices. Here you may find the contact details for the cooperative extension office in your county.
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After tulips have done blooming, what should you do?
It’s time to decide what to do with your fading blooms now that tulip season is past. Tulips are annual flowers that, with appropriate care, can grow into perennials in the garden.
After the tulips bloom, remove the spent flower heads with pruning shears. Trimming the leaves off now will prevent them from producing the energy necessary for the blooms to bloom the next year. The tulips can also be fertilized with a premium bulb fertilizer once they have completed blooming. After blooming, water the tulips regularly for about a month while taking care to remove any stray fertilizer from the foliage. When the foliage naturally dies back, you may either dig out the tulip bulbs and preserve them or, if the summer soil won’t be too moist, leave them in the garden.
Is it possible to grow flowers above tulip bulbs?
Is it possible to grow another flower on top of my dormant tulips? The front of my house’s garden has some unsightly gaps in it. Thanks,
Thanita from Ashburn, Virginia
Mike: The reasons we Americans (as opposed to those in Holland) have trouble getting our spring bulbs to bloom year after year are, according to what I overheard you mention last spring:
- We drastically over-earnest the green, nourishing portion of the bulb and
- If we grow annual flowers on top of our bulbs, they receive an excessive amount of watering and fertilizing.
Your recommendation was to dig up the bulbs once the greenery had withered back and layer them in a pot, according to kind, with alternating layers of peat and vermiculite to keep the layers apart. You suggested, I believe, that they should still be watered, just not more frequently than a typical rainfall schedule would allow. So I took action. However, when I went looking for confirmation on the Internet, the data I discovered suggested that it would just cause the bulbs to rot and serve as a buffet for neighborhood field mice and/or squirrels (and deer if they found the container). I gave the collection one “watering”; after that, they only received rain. How did I do?
Hockessin, Delaware’s Tina
A. Tina, you mainly got it correct. The irrigation section was the one you misheard the most. I HOPE I mentioned to only let the rain hit the container they are in and NOT to add ANY water.
However, let’s go back to the beginning. One of the best interview guests we’ve ever had on the program, British gardening writer Anna Pavord, gave us this piece of advise while she was on tour in 2000 in support of her stunning book “The Tulip,” which was published in 1999. I remarked during the interview that one of our most frequent inquiries was over the reliability of tulip returns. That’s because you Americans plant annual flowers on top of the bulbs and then water and Miracle-Grow the crap out of them, rotting the poor bulbs underground, she immediately said.
She explained that Spring bulbs have evolved to live in their native mountains of Russia, Turkey, and Afghanistan in a harsh and largely God-forsaken environment. The bulbs that have been hiding put up their shoots, flower, and absorb a lot of solar energy when heavy snow and freezing cold eventually give way to a rather comfortable Spring. After that, the above-ground growth fades away, and the bulbs hide once more, this time from a dry, sweltering summer.
Therefore, according to Pavord, their DNA does not understand the moisture and food of summer; instead, it understands scorching, dry, and desolate. They don’t respond well to beds that are watered and nourished throughout the summer to keep marigolds, begonias, or petunias alive for that reason.
She continued by saying that because she, too, had a small garden and didn’t want to leave her bulb beds vacant for the summer, she had to learn this lesson the hard way. She began lifting the bulbs, preserving them for the summer, and replanting them in the fall as soon as she realized what was happening. She assured me and my audience that it functioned admirably and had a good deal of room for mistake.
It worked the first time I attempted it that summer and every summer after. I never repeated it exactly the same manner. The first year, when the greens on the bulbs had faded, I pulled them out and moved them to the back of the garden, out of sight and away from the sprinkler. I hammered together a bottomless box out of scrap wood, filled it halfway with soil, then added a layer of one type of bulb, more soil, more bulbs, etc., until it was completely full. Only when it rained did it get irrigated. And I covered it with a tarp when we experienced protracted rainy spells. I removed them in the middle of October, planted them again around Halloween, and had fantastic results.
After a few years, the box completely rotted away, so I transferred to large pots that were initially just plain ugly and had never gotten any prettier. This also functions well. If I have it, I will occasionally add a considerable amount of peat, vermiculite, perlite, or a fine, light professional potting soil blend; if not, I will simply use my compost-enriched garden soil. I’ve never lost more than a few items to rot due to mice or squirrels invading, either (and they were probably already damaged by my tender digging-up style, which involves a lot of creative swearing). Although I adore the picture of Bambi digging through several inches of soil in search of hidden riches, I don’t believe that even deer are that stupid.
Here is how I intend to make my Spring bulbs bloom again:
- Remove the faded blooms and any developing seedpods when they have finished blooming.
- Feed the plants so they will grow new flowers for you the following year. There are numerous feeding instructions in our earlier Spring bulb Question of the Week.
- Wait until the greens have totally lost their green hue before touching them.
- Remove the bulbs. The ideal method is to slowly coax the bulb out of the ground after it goes tan or brown while gently pulling on the faded greens. Go digging if it breaks off, but exercise caution.
- The degreened bulbs should be kept outside in a container with excellent drainage, either in the sun or the shade, in soil, soilless mix, or a mixture of both. Do not water them, and if it is raining a lot, cover the container.
- In the autumn, replant. In the far north, that would be September; in the mid-Atlantic, October; and in warm climates, after Thanksgiving.
How to Save Tulip Bulbs For A More Colorful Garden Next Spring
One of the most popular flower bulbs is the tulip. They are the center of attention in the spring garden because of their brilliant colors and graceful shapes. Discover tulip bulb preservation techniques to enjoy a second season of beauty.
How to Save Tulip Bulbs
While most tulips won’t rebloom if the bulbs are left in the ground, certain small tulips naturalize well, multiply, and bloom for several years. Digging them up and storing them over the summer is the best option if you want to keep them.
- Dig the tulips up after the foliage has finished withering and dying back after flowering.
- After removing the soil, let the bulbs dry. Throw away those that are broken.
- The bulbs should be kept in paper bags or nets. Before transplanting them in the fall, label them and store them in a cold, dark spot.
How to Save Tulip Bulbs: Propagation
Tulips can be multiplied by propagation, increasing your stock. It’s possible that some of your tulip bulbs have sprung offsets or tiny new bulbs. Split these off from their parent bulbs, and then plant them in pots in a cold frame or in a protected area of the garden, at least 8″ deep. Make sure the soil is wet but not drenched. Be patient; they might bloom in the spring after that or they might need two seasons to mature before they bloom.
How to Save Tulip Bulbs Grown in Pots
Tulips cultivated in pots are less likely to blossom again because flower bulbs are more stressed when grown in pots and containers than when grown in the outdoors. It is preferable to throw them away once they have bloomed and plant new bulbs in the fall.
Are tulips a drug to you like they are to us? After learning how to preserve tulip bulbs, explore our assortment of tulips to find a wide variety of hues, forms, and exotic species for a stunning spring display.
Tulip bulbs can be left in the ground all year.
In the hardy U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, tulip bulbs can be left in the ground to grow as perennials. They only reproduce when permitted to go through a full leaf cycle and spend the entire year underground. Although they may not fare well in summer in hotter locations, planting them approximately 12 inches deep will protect them from the heat. However, they might spread more slowly at that depth.
Can pansies be grown on top of tulip bulbs?
Planting Layered Bulb in Pots 2019-09-26 2021-08-07
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True to life
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Why is clear to see. The lengthening of the flowering season can be achieved by layering spring flowering bulbs.
Although you can layer flower bulbs in the boundary, layering several flower bulb varieties in pots yields the best results.
Which bulbs to use
The first flowers to blossom will be snowdrops and snow crocus, also known as species crocus.
Then, how you fill in the middle of the blossoming time greatly relies on personal preference.
I like to grow two different kinds of daffodils: one that blooms very early, like “Tete a Tete,” “February Gold,” or “Jet Fire,” and one that blooms later, like “Holly Berry” or “Fortune.”
Since blue and yellow work well together, I use grape hyacinths, which, if planted in the border, have a propensity to expand outward. They are also lovely and concise.
Colour on top
You can add a few winter-flowering pansies or violas to the top of your layered planting to add both instant and long-lasting color. They will continue to bloom alongside the bulbs until late January, when the first bulbs begin to blossom.
The little cyclamen are a fantastic alternative to pansies if you’d like something different, but they’re frequently beyond their prime by the time the bulb show starts in mid-January.
How to do it
Purchase the largest and firmest bulbs that you can find. There are more flowers produced by larger bulbs.
Make use of a sturdy container. A 15-liter pot with a minimum diameter of 30 cm is ideal.
To fill your pot, you will need potting compost, but the specific type is likely less crucial than it would be for other plants. The reason for this is that your plants already have practically all of the nutrients they require stored within them, in addition to the flower bud itself!
Because smaller bulbs could be blind and produce only leaves, I advise choosing larger bulbs instead of smaller ones. The fact that each of those incredibly large bulbs frequently contains many flowers enhances the spectacle significantly.
Let’s get started
Then, evenly spacing out your tallest tulip bulbs while ensuring that none of them touch.
For every type, it’s crucial to keep bulbs from touching because doing so can occasionally cause rotting.
Interestingly, planting your bulbs with the point up helps but is not necessary. As they develop, bulbs will correct themselves and are exceedingly forgiving.
This could be the daffodil I mentioned that blooms late. If you can’t find that specific variety, don’t fret; just pick one with sturdy flower stalks and late flowering.
Shorter tulips can now be planted after tall daffodils have been planted at the bottom. Plant one of the numerous dwarf cultivars like “Little Red Riding Hood,” “Giuseppe Verdi,” or the “Toronto,” which has multiple heads.
Compost again over these.
Add the subsequent layer of bulbs after envisioning lasagna-style pasta layers.
This time, scatter the grape hyacinths among the short, early-blooming crocus.
The snowdrops, which will actually be the first to give you your spring bulb display, are the final layer of bulbs to be added.
A fight to the top?
The recommended planting depth for each cultivar determines the actual planting sequence. It won’t bloom at this time of year, unfortunately!
In order to ensure that they eventually have the most compost on top of them, place the largest bulbs closest to the bottom of the container.
The smallest bulbs, including grape hyacinths, crocuses, and snowdrops, require the least amount of protection.
Again, don’t worry if you’re worried that these bulbs are on top of those below; bulbs will push their blossoms upward wherever there is room!
Finishing off
Last but not least, plant your winter-flowering pansies, violas, or miniature cyclamen and fill in any empty spaces with potting compost until it reaches just below the pot’s rim.
To exhibit your stacked bulb container, pick a conspicuous location, like on the doorstep.