- fake orange
- crabapples in bloom.
- Dogwoods.
- cherry blossoms.
- Magnolias.
What kind of plant makes a suitable lilac companion?
Conifers are among the most attractive and fascinating trees in nature, and they should be included in most gardens. These shapely and statuesque evergreens, which include pines (Pinus), spruces (Picea), firs (Abies), cedars (Cedrus), false cypresses (Chamaecyparis), and many others, add year-round beauty and structure to your landscape.
Malus, or flowering crabapples, are beautiful trees that have two distinct seasons of interest: they bloom lavishly in the spring, perhaps a week or two before the lilacs, and from the summer into the late fall, they yield fruit that is vividly colored. Despite not being suitable for human eating, the fruits are essential to insects, birds, and tiny animals.
Early-blooming lilacs go great with flowering dogwoods (Cornus), which are superb landscape selections for all four seasons. With their delicate bracts that awaken in the spring, their foliage changes to gorgeous colors of gold, crimson, or purple in the fall, and their brilliant red berries draw winter songbirds for everyone’s enjoyment.
Prunus, or flowering cherries, are wonderful ornamental plants thanks to their abundance of spring flowers, attractive leaves and shape, and occasionally their lustrous bark. The majority of them bloom at their best when the lilacs are still in bloom, and together they make for a stunning flower show.
Magnolias are exceptional early blooming trees of great beauty, and more efforts should be made to combine the benefits of magnolias and lilacs. The majority of the best deciduous magnolias bloom at the same time as Syringa vulgaris, the common lilac. They both prefer rich, deep loam that has good drainage.
Most lilacs offer little interest after blossoming. Grow clematis with various bloom seasons through your lilac’s branches to give the shrub more color and glitz and lengthen the enjoyment of the season. Select a clematis variety that blooms in the middle or end of the season and starts blooming after your lilac. Probably the most common choice for climbing through a shrub is Clematis viticella.
The exotic vine known as the “Passiflora” or “Passion Flower” is one of our favorite garden plants. They are simple to produce and reward us with a long season of intriguing, bold, and gorgeous blossoms. Some of the blossoms also give way to delicious passion fruits. Lilac shrubs provide perfect trellises for passion vines because they are trouble-free climbers with tendrils that cling to surfaces. The most resilient of the passion flowers, Passiflora incarnata (Wild Passion Flower), will add vibrant color after the lilac blossoms have faded.
Lilacs go well with herbaceous peonies and tree peonies (Paeonia). They complement each other’s appearance and colors and smells and forms. Plant peonies near the foot of your lilac to conceal its exposed legs and enjoy their lovely blooms and all-pervading fragrance.
Hostas’ large, ornamental leaves go well with the lilacs’ flowering stems. On the north or west side of your lilac shrubs, plant a gorgeous bed of hostas. Some of the blue hostas might be used to encircle the pink lilacs in the foreground. For white or lavender lilacs, use hostas with golden leaves. Hostas come in an astounding variety of sizes, shapes, and colors, and they can be combined in eye-catching ways.
Daylilies, or Hemerocallis, are vibrant, spreading perennials that aid in concealing the lanky base of lilacs. Because of their many benefits, including their showy flowers, wide variety of vibrant colors, tolerance to drought, ability to grow in most soil types, and low maintenance needs, they are frequently referred to as the “perfect perennial.” They are remarkable and stunning additions to the garden where they bloom vigorously for weeks on end. In the summer, they showcase their lovely blossoms while the lilacs’ lush greenery serves as a lovely backdrop.
Lilacs Cultural Requirements
There is a large selection of companion plants that will enhance your lilacs’ best features and coexist in harmony with them. Verify that any ornamental grasses, perennials, shrubs, or trees you choose will grow similarly to your lilacs.
- Although lilacs may survive in a variety of environments, they thrive, bloom, and exude beauty when grown in wet but well-drained, neutral to alkaline soil in direct sunlight (at least 6 hours). To select the ideal plants for your lilac shrubs, use our Plant Finder.
- Make sure your site has good drainage. Wet feet and excessive watering will both prevent lilacs from blooming.
Lilacs may be planted next to one another.
I have some lilac bushes that are older. A new kind that is deep purple with white edges that I recently bought. Will the new one eventually resemble the old one if I plant it next to the older one?
Lilacs, unlike certain perennials, won’t be harmed by being planted close to another species of lilac, says Master Gardener Mary Johnson. Some perennial plants, such as phlox, have a propensity to reseed and commonly “revert” to the original purple flowers from which many of the more modern variations were developed.
The shoots that emerge from a lilac shrub’s primary root mass are exact replicas of the original plant. The flowers from adjacent lilacs shouldn’t differ in any way.
Can you grow roses and lilacs together?
We want to interplant rose of Sharon and lilacs to create a visual barrier along a property border (extended blooming is the goal of the combination). What advice would you give? Do the plants get along?
The same site requirements apply to rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) and lilacs (Syringa): full light and fertile, wet, well-drained soil. Both can stand some mild shading. Given that both of these shrubs were employed in Midwest yards before the turn of the century and have remained a part of the region’s landscape ever since the first settlements were established, they make for an interesting pairing as a shrub hedge in the landscape. Both are strong plants that ought to be planted far from the home. You may have noted that they were frequently planted as borders, frequently in front of hurricane walls, in the outermost corners of rural, then city, and eventually suburban yards. They have also been planted as foundations, but that is not where their beauty is best seen.
Depending on the cultivars choose, the lilac can grow to a height of 6 to 18 feet and a spread of 4 to 15 feet. The rose of Sharon is 8 to 12 feet tall and 6 to 10 feet wide. In May and June, the lilac’s abundant and fragrant purple, pink, or white blossoms serve as a welcome sign of spring. The foliage on the arching or upright mounded branches is medium to deep green once the flowers have faded.
The rose of Sharon is the other bookend of the spring-summer season, displaying its large, vibrant blossoms in the sweltering summer months and continuing to bloom when kids return to school. The large, showy rose of Sharon flowers are available in white, pink, lavender, blue, or even violet. They can also be flat, single blooms, double blooms that resemble carnations, or the more recent anemone kind, which has a single flower with a lacy center. When not in bloom in the summer, the foliage has three distinct lobes and is dark and thick.
Both plants have demonstrated in the Midwestern landscape that they are resilient, hardy, and adaptable. Although the common lilac is infamous for its mildew issues and tendency to grow lanky and open at the base, there are cultivars like Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’ that are less problematic. Consider combining an early-blooming forsythia with a mid-season bloomer, such as a spirea, to create a continuous color scheme.
What kind of area does a lilac shrub require?
Lilacs require a lot of space to grow, so that is the first planting rule. They will want a spot that is at least seven to eight feet broad for a hedge and 10 feet wide for a shrub.
Additionally, they require at least six hours of sun each day in order to bloom beautifully. Create an alkaline, well-drained soil. When planting, add a small amount of lime, and then apply it twice a year to keep the shrubs healthy.
Dig a hole for the plant about as deep as the pot or perhaps a little deeper so you can fill the hole with compost. To prepare the lilac roots for spreading out in their new home, remove it from the pot and score the roots. Backfill the hole after placing it in position. Add a little additional compost to the soil’s top layer for an extra boost of nutrients. Thoroughly water. The majority of lilacs are drought-resistant, so once the bush is established, you can let nature handle the watering.
Are your lilac bushes pruned?
An old, overgrown lilac was one of the few plants that endured my garden restoration. The fact that it obscured my neighbor’s garage and, more importantly, sported steel-blue double flowers, led me to rescue it. Although the blossoms on this shrub were both lovely and fragrant, it was difficult to appreciate them because there were so few of them. I decided to go with a rejuvenation pruning because I knew there was no reason to give up on this long-neglected plant because lilacs can handle severe pruning.
On stems that are no older than five or six years, the common French lilacs (Syringa vulgaris cvs.) yield the most and the largest flowers. The flowers get fewer, smaller, and farther away as the stems get older. A lilac, however, may reliably produce blossoms for decades with the right trimming. The method you choose will depend on how old your shrub is. Plants are maintained annually to keep them healthy. A more drastic trimming may be necessary for lilacs like mine that have seen better days.
Lilacs should be clipped annually to encourage healthy stem development and strong growth that improves flowering. Cutting sick, deformed, and unproductive stems to the ground constitutes annual pruning. I thin and cut back some stems as well to promote healthy, evenly spaced growth. To prevent them from growing too far away from the center of the plant, I also pruned a few of the new shoots that emerged from the roots. I left a few inches between each stem to prevent crowding. Since they produce the most, I maintain the pencil-thick shoots that extend all the way to the ends of the branches. Small, twitchy growth is unproductive and won’t blossom. This growth can indicate an excess of aged, unproductive stems or too much shadow. Remove stems as soon as possible after blossoming, or in late winter if you don’t mind losing a few blooms. Cut off stems and shoots at or just below the soil line.
Dwarf lilacs rarely need pruning
Both the “Palibin” Meyer lilac (Syringa meyeri “Palibin”) and the “Miss Kim” Manchurian lilac (Syringa pubescens ssp. patula “Miss Kim”) are twiggy-habiting, somewhat small lilacs. On these types, just deadheading is needed in terms of pruning. You can prune some of the older stems as the plants get older to make place for younger, more robust stems. In contrast to regular lilacs, these plants hardly ever spread out of control. They might never need to be entirely regenerated if you only undertake a tiny amount of trimming every few years.
After the blooms have faded, deadheading, another aspect of annual maintenance, should be carried out as soon as feasible. Just above the two new shoots that slant out from the stem that stopped with the old bloom, the base of the old flower cluster should be cut off. The new shoots will develop throughout the course of the summer, produce flower buds, and culminate in a cluster of flowers the following spring. While not as crucial as the annual thinning, eliminating the old blossoms enables the plant to focus more of its energy on developing robust branches and flower buds. In June, I deadhead and thin my plants as needed.
While performing this yearly maintenance, I occasionally come upon a young, robust shoot that may be getting too tall but is still a good, productive stem and is a candidate for tipping off. I cut the wasted flower’s entire top stem back to one or two side shoots at the desired height rather of just cutting it off at the base. The side shoots that are now near the top of the bush are encouraged to grow vigorously and develop flower buds for the following year by this cut, which also aids in shrinking the shrub.
My own old, overgrown lilacs need more severe pruning. I went outside in the early spring before growth got going to get a good look at the bush. I looked to see if the plant had been grafted before I began chopping. I immediately cut it down to the ground as it hadn’t (for a grafted plant, see the panel below). I recognized that this drastic trimming would result in the plant losing part of its aesthetic appeal for a few years because lilacs bloom on the growth from the previous season. However, I was also aware that the reward—more blossoms and a stronger plant—would be worthwhile.
It’s crucial to nourish the plant after rejuvenation pruning with compost, composted manure, or a balanced chemical fertilizer and to make sure the soil pH is close to neutral, which lilacs appreciate. In the upcoming years, these supplements and some high-quality mulch will help to encourage vigorous new growth and enhanced flowering.
Has your lilac been grafted?
If your lilac has been grafted, check it out before you start making cuts to the stems. Grafting is a method of plant multiplication in which the scion, or branch, of one species is joined to the rootstock, or stem, of another species. This is typically done to enhance a plant’s look or traits. A graft union, where the cultivar’s scion wood joins the rootstock several inches above ground level, should be obvious. An apparent change in the bark from the rootstock to the scion’s bark, as well as a little swelling at the graft union, are things to watch for. If your plant has been grafted, all of your cuttings must be made above the graft union, and you must prevent shoots from the rootstock from developing into new flowering stems. Flowers of the desired shape or color will not be produced by shoots that emerge from the rootstock.
Which month is ideal for lilac planting?
Lilac trees grow best in the fall, just after the leaves have fallen and before the ground freezes. Lilacs can be planted in the spring before the buds open. However, springtime is a relatively brief season, therefore transplanting at this time is only advised in regions with really harsh winters.