There are numerous different plant combinations that are effective with catmint. Consider growing verbena, agastache, lavender, and tufted hairgrass alongside catmint as companion plants.
Plant catmint in a dramatic border with irises and Siberian spurge, or add a splash of color with yarrow to the previously stated rose and catmint combination. For long-lasting blossoms and minimal upkeep, combine yarrow, catmint, agastache, and foxtail lilies.
With catmint, allium, phlox, and white flower lace, spring irises go perfectly. Combine catmint with perennial grasses for a distinct texture. Sneezeweed, catmint, and dahlias all produce magnificent flowers that endure far into the early fall.
Catmint enhances the beauty of coneflower, daylily, and black-eyed susan.
With catmint, the planting combinations are virtually endless. Just keep in mind to group similar plants together. Those that are tolerant of your region and appreciate comparable conditions to catmint, including full sun, average garden soil, and little to no water.
How can catmint be made to appear good?
Nepeta, or catmint, is one of my favorite late-spring blossoming flowers. In USDA Zones 48, this herbaceous perennial is hardy. It is a hardy plant that regularly blooms every year despite challenging weather conditions. The blue, white, or violet flowers that draw bees and hummingbirds to the garden share the stage with the gray-green leaves. The plants will easily blossom again, particularly if you are diligent about deadheading. When content, the plant can spread out to a width of 2 to 3 feet and grows 1 to 2 feet tall. Additionally, it tolerates deer browsing, always a plus. My cat adores catmint, and it is one of the obvious indicators of catmint in my garden. She will spend hours lying in the catmint patch, acting as though she has recently found love.
Catmint is a perennial that is simple to grow, although it does have some issues. Plants can become rangy and wild-looking as they age and tumble over in torrential downpours. Additionally, after a few years, the plant’s center may wither, necessitating division and replanting. Although older types like “Walker’s Low” and “Six Hills Giant” are wonderful to cultivate, they can occasionally suffer the issues mentioned above. Growing some of the more recent catmint varieties on the market is the solution. “Cat’s Meow” maintains its lovely mounded shape throughout the entire season. ‘Purrsian Blue’ features periwinkle flowers and grows even more compact than ‘Cat’s Meow’, reaching only 14 inches tall and 18 inches broad.
Whichever variety of catmint you select, be sure to cover it with compost in the spring and water it regularly during the growing season. Mulching prevents weed growth and helps keep the soil moist. After the first bloom, cut off the dead flowers to encourage the plant to blossom once more. If plants become too big or if you simply want to grow more plants to share, divide them in the spring. In the fall, trim the foliage to the ground and compost it.
What complements Walkers Low catmint well?
Plant of the Year for Perennials in 2007: 18–24″ tall x 18” wide. Nepeta “Walker’s Low” is a gorgeous non-reseeding Catmint variety with lovely, crinkled blue-green foliage and an abundance of deep lavender-blue blooms. Its name is derived from a location in England, not from its growing pattern. After the first burst of blooms in the middle of spring, trim back to just above ground level. In June, remove faded blooms to encourage reblooming. Nepeta “Walker’s Low” does well in challenging environments. Walker’s Low Catmint is a tough, simple-to-grow addition to any xeriscape and is a great companion plant for blue avena grass or silver-leaved artemisia (Helictotrichon). (The cutting spread.)
What goes nicely with catnip?
Beets, pumpkins, and squash go nicely with catnip companion planting. Hyssop and catnip grow better together, and the gentle blue blossoms of each plant make a lovely border.
Catnip & Insects
Bees will be drawn to your garden by catnip. Just make sure to check to see if the fresh catnip is insect-free before giving it to your favorite pet.
Many dangerous insects, including ants, aphids, beetles, cockroaches, flea beetles, Japanese beetles, and squash bugs, are supposed to be deterred by catnip. Ironically, mice and rats detest catnip. The herb does not appeal to weevils either.
Catnip Protects Your Garden
Planting catnip as a border is one strategy to prevent your cat or a neighborhood cat from digging up or otherwise disturbing your garden. Hopefully the catnip will keep them busy enough that they won’t bother the other parts of your garden.
Additionally, mice and rats detest catnip, which may discourage them from exploring your vegetable garden.
What shouldn’t grow close to catnip?
Even though they are terrific for cooking, herbs make excellent vegetable garden companions. They draw helpful insects that keep pests away from your plants. They boost pollination rates, which can help your plants grow and produce more. They have the power to deter dangerous insects and animals.
Basil. Always plant close to your tomato plants. Tomato flavor is enhanced by it. Additionally, it promotes pepper growth. It aids in warding off pests like mosquitoes, flies, carrot flies, white flies, and tomato hornworms. Never, however, plant it close to rue.
Catnip. Aphids, flea beetles, ants, cabbage loopers, squash bugs, Colorado potato beetles, and Japanese beetles are all repelled by this plant. But it can completely take over your landscape because it is so invasive. Planting it in a pot and placing the entire pot in your garden is the best approach to contain it.
Chives. The lettuce, grapes, carrots, tomatoes, and roses all benefit greatly from having this plant nearby. Never put seeds next to beans or peas. Aphids and Japanese beetles will be repelled.
Coriander. Anise is facilitated by this plant. Never grow it close to fennel. It serves as a host plant for helpful wasps and is poisonous to spider mites, Colorado potato beetles, and aphids.
Dill. Close to lettuce, onion, and cole crops, this is a good plant (such as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower and kohlrabi). Never grow it close to carrots or tomatoes since it will stunt their growth. It draws benevolent insects. It deters imported spider mites and cabbageworm.
Fennel. Fennel should not be grown close to other plants, especially tomatoes, beans, and peppers. In a garden, fennel may become quite invasive and self-seed. To prevent the fennel from self-seeding, deadhead it once it begins to bloom. It keeps aphids away. Slugs and snails are also deterred by it.
Garlic. Plants from the cabbage, beet, and rose families should be nearby. Never put seeds next to beans or peas. repels peach borer, codling moth, imported cabbageworm, Japanese beetles, cabbage looper, cabbage maggot, and cabbage looper.
Lavender. It is generally regarded as a good companion plant and is used as a moth repellant.
Mint. enhances the health of tomatoes, peas, and cabbage. The most popular varieties of mint are peppermint and spearmint. Aphids, flea beetles, white flies, squash bugs, cabbage loopers, imported cabbageworms, and cabbage moths are all repelled by mint. Mint is best grown in pots and placed in your garden because it may be somewhat invasive.
Nasturtium. This plant, often known as the edible blossom, benefits fruit trees, radishes, cabbage, and other cucurbits. Additionally, it benefits vine crops. Aphids, flea beetles, squash bugs, whiteflies, striped cucumber beetles, striped pumpkin beetles, Mexican bean beetles, asparagus beetles, cabbage loopers, imported cabbageworms, general cabbage pests, Japanese beetles, Colorado potato beetles, and carrot flies are all discouraged by it. On oregano and mint, it is frequently used as a trap crop for flea beetles and aphids.
Onion. Plant next to strawberries, lettuce, cabbage, and beets. Avoid planting close to beans, peas, or sage. prevents the importation of cabbageworm, Colorado potato beetle, and cabbage looper.
Parsley. Grow plants next to maize, tomatoes, asparagus, and roses. The asparagus beetle avoids it.
Rosemary. Place plants close to sage, beans, carrots, and cabbage. It keeps away the carrot fly, cabbage looper, bean beetle, and cabbage moth. Slugs and snails can be repelled by branches placed on the ground in a garden.
Rue. Grow plants close to fig trees or shrubs. Avoid planting near sage, basil, or cabbage. Flea insects are deterred.
Sage. Plant in close proximity to carrots, cabbage, rosemary, strawberries, and tomatoes. Avoid planting near rue and cucumbers. The white cabbage moth, imported cabbage worm, carrot fly, cabbage looper, and different root maggots are all deterred by it. Bees and other useful creatures are attracted to the flowers.
How is catmint made to stand up?
When you start to see signs of your catmint flopping over or starting to divide at the roots, it could be time to take action. There are a few different techniques to maintain your plants’ erect posture and minimize excessive flopping.
Cutting Back
You might want to think about just removing the plant’s stems or pruning it to reduce the size of your catmint.
With a pair of gardening shears, you simply trim a few inches off the top of the “flopping steams” to do this.
By doing this, you are relieving the steam of additional weight and enabling the plant to support itself. Additionally, you are purging the plant of any potential weak or damaged steams.
By reducing the steam of your catmint plant, you also give the developing flowers and leaves the chance to spread out and grow in other places, balancing the plant’s weight and growth.
Added Benefits of “Cutting Back or “Pruning Your Catmint?
By shearing back your plant, you encourage better new growth, which will keep the plant flourishing longer than older plants that haven’t been treated and far into the fall.
Less stem development after pruning your plant is another advantage that gardeners appear to relish.
The new steams appear to stay much shorter than the ones before them because the plant expends so much energy regrowing many steams after sheering, making maintenance considerably simpler.
Tieing Them Up
The taller, more floppy catmint plants may not always respond well to simple pruning.
In these circumstances, you might need to use a stake and gardening rope to tie your catmint up straight.
Can catmint be reduced in amount?
Catmint (Nepeta spp. and cvs., USDA Hardiness Zones 38) has a way of lifting my mood. This plant impresses me because it can stand out in even the most hostile circumstances, whether it’s along a cobbled walk in England or in the median planters that line Chicago boulevards. Over the course of several weeks in the summer, the beautiful lavender-blue blossoms appear to shine just as brilliantly in the garden as they do above a hard expanse of concrete and macadam. The easiest catmint delight for me, however, is seeing my cat Boo fall prey to its seductive charm.
Despite the fact that some varieties have been misused to the point of ubiquity, I have a lasting affection for catmint. And it was because of this affection that I wanted to try as many different kinds as I could in order to determine which ones were the greatest. It’s true that when catmints are mentioned, many gardening buddies scrunch up their faces. Now, while I freely acknowledge that I won’t mind if catmint and Knock Out roses (Rosa ‘Radrazz’, Zones 49) never see another planting, I’m not quite ready to give up on this wonderful collection of hardy perennials. This is particularly true of a few particular varieties that stand out for their durability, seemingly endless blooms, and attractive leaves.
Top performers
In terms of bloom time, general habit, disease resistance, and low maintenance requirements, these types were picked as the best.
The most well-liked plant in this genus is undoubtedly “Walker’s Low” (N. racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’, top photo), based on its popularity and the numerous prizes it has won. Walker’s Low is taller than one might anticipate at 30 inches. The name does not represent its size; rather, it relates to the garden in Ireland where it first appeared. One of the most magnificent floral displays ever is produced by luminous blue blossoms that are carried in upward-curving plumes up to 12 inches long. The attractive gray-green leaves are completely hidden by the flowers for several weeks when they are in full bloom in late April. Walker’s Low pairs beautifully with a range of perennials and is essential for softening sharp edges along patios and paths. In my garden, “Walker’s Low” and Japanese roof iris are a favorite combination (Iris tectorum, Zones 59). I adore the way the delicate, billowy catmint contrasts with the broad, spiky iris leaves, as well as the color echo of the lavender-blue blossoms.
The flower and foliage of “Sweet Dreams” (N. subsessilis ‘Sweet Dreams’) are a welcome change from those of other catmints. From early summer to late fall, charming pink blooms are arranged in generous clusters and tastefully complemented with burgundy bracts. By catmint standards, each trumpet-shaped blossom is 1 inch long, which is quite large. The lush green foliage will surprise you if you assume this is simply another catmint with gray-green leaves, especially when it turns colorful in the fall. Despite being a large plant, “Sweet Dreams” remains compact throughout summer. In contrast to other catmints, Japanese catmints (N. subsessilis and cvs.), such as “Sweet Dreams,” like wet soils and partial shade, though they are equally comfortable in full sun. However, deadheading is necessary to prevent “Sweet Dreams” from having a nightmare appearance after the first flush of blooms since the brown, spent flowers persist.
When great gardeners are honored with magnificent plants, it is lovely. Such a plant is called “Joanna Reed” (N. ‘Joanna Reed’), after the late Pennsylvania gardener who discovered it. One of the neatest catmints I’ve ever produced, and this quality secured a perfect score in our testing. It didn’t require deadheading because of its sturdy stems, which never flopped, and because new growth appeared swiftly to cover the wilting flower stems. I find it impossible to imagine “Joanna Reed” without blooms because of the constant display of huge violet-blue flowers that cover the wide-spreading, compact plants from spring into October. Many catmints boast about the attractiveness and unpalatability of their dusty green foliage.
Greek catmint (N. parnassica), according to a short internet search, is more popular in European gardens, but it’s still worthwhile to look for this rare beauty here. Greek catmint is robust and audacious. However, the stems of our test plants only grew to a maximum height and width of 4 feet. Stems up to 6 feet tall are possible. The tint of the fragrant leaves lies midway between green and gray-green. Beginning in early summer and continuing into early October, long spikes of tiny lavender blooms, each less than half an inch long, are densely populated. Greek catmint has the presence to dominate any garden and will cheerfully take all the sunlight you can throw at it.
I believe the catmint “Six Hills Giant” (N. “Six Hills Giant”) is the standard by which all other catmints should be measured. The word “giant” is used to indicate the massive plant size and the extravagant floral display. Long flower spikes attract attention starting in late spring. However, like many catmints, ‘Six Hills Giant’ may start to relax or even recline a few weeks into the flowering period. This was true in our testing. After the initial flower flush, don’t be afraid to bash it back to promote the growth of new, stronger stems. Although it may be difficult to consider giving up blossoms, there will be many more to come. For the ideal display, place “Six Hills Giant” next to virtually anything pink in the garden.
Select Blue (N. faassenii ‘Select Blue’), chosen for its blue flowers, is a superior addition to the group of long-blooming catmints. From midspring to midfall, I don’t think we experienced a day without flowers. The flowers are actually lavender with a darker calyx that gives them a swarthy appearance, despite claims that they are a darker blue than the straight species (N. faassenii). Late during the season, the low, mounded habit remained solid without shearing. For its tenacity and resistance to drought, the xeriscape specialists at High Country Gardens in New Mexico advise “Select Blue,” and we can vouch for its impressive performance in typical garden settings as well.
Getting down to the nitty-gritty of catmint
Catmints are tough, free-flowering perennials that typically like full sun and well-drained soils for growth. However, some are well-liked for xeriscaping because, once established, they can withstand drought. When lavenders are not hardy, they are often referred to as “poor man’s lavender (Lavandula spp. and cvs., Zones 59), which is an acceptable analogy. Here are some additional details concerning this category of plants that you should be aware of.
Catmints are incredibly floriferous from early spring to the end of the growing season. Their unique tubular, two-lipped blossoms identify them as belonging to the mint family. Even when the flowers have faded, colorful calyces still improve the floral arrangement.
Through slicing off a piece of an established clump with a spade, you can proliferate by spring division. There should be numerous young shoots and a sizable root system in each fresh division. Catmint cuttings will take root quickly if they are cut from healthy shoots before the flower buds appear. The cuttings should take several weeks to root if you place them in a moist medium like sand or a peat-perlite mixture.
An essential oil found in the leaves and stems causes cats to exhibit a range of behavioral reactions. Eating the leaves may have calming effects, while rubbing, licking, or biting them creates a momentary high. According to all accounts, cats are especially intoxicated by catmint, or catnip (N. cataria*). You unfortunately have limited options for preventing cats from mauling (and occasionally squashing) your plants. Although most plants will recover fast following an attack, barriers may be your only alternative.
Although Japanese catmints (N. subsessilis and cvs.) prefer moist soils and don’t mind partial shade, wet or soggy areas can be the death knell for most catmints. Catmints frequently appear on lists of deer-resistant plants because they are rarely troubled by disease or pests.
It’s simple to ignore the leaves when there are so many blooms to catch your attention. Many catmint species are known for their fuzzy, gray-green leaves, although some, like Siberian catmint (N. sibirica), have huge, green leaves instead. Finding it difficult to tell if something is catmint? Another distinguishing characteristic of the mint family is square stems.
High fertility merely promotes floppy behavior. Simply shear the older stems down to the young leaves coming from the crown when stems start to flop over and flower output begins to decline. Plants that have been sheared will recover in a few weeks and resume their natural appearance.
Catmint should only be pruned in the spring or once you are certain that the growing season has ended, as it can be ugly in the winter. Even late in the growing season, cutting it back stimulates it to resprout, and the new growth is cold-sensitive. Any potential winter damage is avoided by waiting until spring.