If you have trouble growing tulips, you might have luck with species tulips. These stand in stark contrast to their relatives with huge flowers, which sparkle the first year before virtually disappearing the following.
Although they are shorter, smaller, and appear more fragile than daffodils, species tulips are spring bulbs that are just as dependable as daffodils and have the endurance for long-lasting displays. Since the majority of tulip species are native to Turkey’s northern mountainous regions, they can withstand harsh weather. They require little maintenance and continue to bloom year after year. After a few years, many may gather together forming clumps.
Similar to cultivars, species tulips favor growth in full light and free-draining soil. Plant them in the fall for swathes of color, scatter them throughout a rockery, or use beautiful mulches in pots to highlight their flowers.
Tulip species are perennials, right?
Tulips are recognized to be dependable perennials across the board. These bulbs will come back for numerous seasons if given the right conditions, such as full light, cool temperatures, dry soil in the summer, and allowing the leaves to turn yellow after blooming. In this collection, the majority of the tulip varieties bloom extremely early in the growing season.
How many tulip species are there?
Currently, there are over 3,000 registered variations, which are broken down into fifteen categories primarily depending on the tulip’s flower type, size, and blooming season.
Will species tulips grow wild?
The majority of the tulip bulbs we purchase have been cultivated, nurtured, and carefully chosen so they are plump and likely to yield a big flower. Becky Heath, one of the proprietors of the Virginia mail-order company Brent and Becky’s Bulbs, noted that after that first flowering, the mother bulb splits into smaller bulbs as a mechanism of reproduction. The energy required to produce a large blossom the following year cannot be stored in those bulblets.
However, certain tulip varieties do a better job at developing robust offspring. Furthermore, all tulips thrive more successfully when planted in the right location and given the right care.
Fosteriana and the original Darwin tulips were crossed to create the giant Darwin hybrid tulips, which are noted for their consistency. They are really frequently advertised as perennial tulips.
According to Heath, their bulbs don’t break up as easily, which enables them to make a powerful comeback.
“They resemble something of a tulip powerhouse. Simply put, they have extraordinarily robust genetics “according to Jo-Anne van den Berg-Ohms of Connecticut-based mail-order merchant John Scheepers Inc. She is Scheepers’ great-niece, who in the 1950s brought enormous Darwin hybrids to America.
Large blossoms on sturdy stems are produced by this kind of tulip. They come in a somewhat large variety of colors, some of them are striped.
Fosteriana tulips, commonly known as Emperor tulips, are another kind that typically thrives, according to Tim Schipper of Colorblends, a Connecticut-based business that distributes tulip bulbs in bulk. According to him, Fosteriana tulips grow well in Northeast Ohio but less so in more temperate regions.
Fosterianas’ ability to become perennials is partially genetic, according to Schipper, but it also has to do with the early bloom time. Fosteriana tulips have a lengthy growing season that provides them plenty of time to refuel their energy reserves for the following year, assuming the weather is agreeable, he said.
They have big, elongated flowers and are a little shorter than Darwin hybrids.
Planting species tulips, also known as botanical tulips, is another way to get tulips to come back. They resemble their natural progenitors more than the large tulips that have been created through hybridization because they are smaller, more delicate plants.
Tulip species reproduce and form clusters that get bigger every year, a process known as “naturalizing,” in addition to coming back every year. According to van den Berg-Ohms, that process begins when bulblets produced by the mother bulb become large enough to separate off and develop their own flowers.
Species tulips can grow anywhere from 5 to 12 inches tall, depending on the variety. Tulipa biflora, a little white flower with a yellow center, and T. praestans fuselier, a multiflowering tulip with a vivid orange-red color, are just a couple of examples of the species.
According to Schipper, these little plants offer a subtle burst of color rather than a dramatic display. They do best in areas where they will receive enough sunlight, such as rock gardens, walkway margins, and tree drip lines.
Schipper believes that altering one’s perspective is one of the most crucial elements in perennializing tulips. You must think about where the tulips have the highest chance of long-term survival rather than following where you want them to grow.
Tulips prefer soil with a pH of 7, good drainage, and at least six hours of sunlight each day. The more closely you can mimic their original mountainous regions in central Asia, when winters are bitterly cold and summers are dry, the better your chances will be, according to Schipper.
Well-drained soil, according to Heath, is crucial in the summer. The bulbs are then inactive, and she claimed that “much like me, they want to sleep in a dry bed.”
Schipper advised against planting too early in the year. When asked when the fall leaf color is at its best, he advised waiting until daytime temperatures were in the 70s and nighttime temps were in the 40s.
Tulips can be kept coming back by planting them further into the ground than other types of bulbs. According to van den Berg-Ohms, this gives them better protection from temperature fluctuations and increases their exposure to the minerals and other healthy components of the soil.
Heath advises planting at a depth equal to four times the bulb’s height. She claimed that because of the increased ground pressure at that depth, the bulbs typically resist breaking.
If the fall has been dry, she advised watering the plants right afterwards to help the roots take root.
According to van den Berg-Ohms, tulips don’t require fertilizer when they are planted. In the bulb, they already have everything they require.
However, after the first year, fertilization can increase their strength, according to her. Three times a year, in the fall, early spring when the sprouts first show, and late spring when the blossoms begin to wither, she advises applying an organic fertilizer by way of a light sprinkle. She advised picking a fertilizer with more phosphorus than nitrogen or potassium.
In the summer, when the bulbs are dormant, watch that they don’t get too much moisture. When water-loving annual flowers are planted in the same area after tulips finish flowering, Schipper said there is frequently an issue with excess moisture. Tulip bulbs can perish if they are watered at the same time as annual plants during the summer.
Additionally, Van den Berg-Ohms advised against cutting the bigger varieties of tulips to bring inside. She claimed that cutting off their stems reduces their capacity to store energy. To avoid the plant putting its energy into seed production, wait until the flowers have finished flowering and are beginning to die back before cutting off the flower heads about an inch below the base.
Tulips of the lesser species don’t require deadheading. In fact, Heath said that leaving the flower heads on encourages seed germination, possibly leading to the growth of additional plants.
(You shouldn’t do it with the larger tulips because a seed doesn’t bloom right away. Keeping the energy of the current plant is preferable to trying to create new ones.)
Allow the foliage to wither for up to eight weeks before removing it. Even if it’s not particularly gorgeous at that point, the experts advised against braiding it to make hair look more tidy. So that the plants can use photosynthesis to replenish the bulbs, you should leave as much of the foliage exposed to the sun as you can.
Vole and deer problems? Plantskydd, a repellant produced from dried blood, is advised by Heath.
According to Schipper and van den Berg-Ohms, a warmer spring can shorten the growing season by causing the flower bud to open before the plant reaches its full height. As a result, there is less plant mass left to use photosynthesis to produce food for the following year.
And some locations simply have better circumstances than others. In one area of your yard, tulips might come back every year, but not in another, according to Schipper. People frequently phone him asking to plant the same type of tulips that their grandmothers’ yards used to have in bloom every year, but the microclimate, not the particular variety of tulip, was probably to blame.
The first year’s bloom will be the nicest with the larger tulips, he said. The years after that won’t ever be as remarkable, but “it’s still respectable,” he remarked.
Do species tulips require deadheading?
After blossoming, tulips can be deadheaded. You risk losing the seed if you deadhead species types. Wait until the foliage turns yellow before pruning it, which will happen approximately a month after flowering. The bulbs will be less resilient the following year if you prune the leaves too soon.
Daniel Haynes provides the following instructions for reflowering species tulips:
How to propagate tulips
It’s preferable to plant new tulips every autumn if you want to enjoy their blossoms every year. The bulbs can also be lifted and stored. Once the leaf has turned yellow a month after flowering, you can accomplish this by lifting them with a hand fork. Take off the stem, pull or cut the foliage, and the bulb’s flaky outer layer. After letting the bulbs dry, keep them in a paper bag.
Watch Monty Don’s instructional video on how to handle and keep tulip bulbs:
You can carefully pluck out offset bulbs that have grown on the sides of the main bulb. These should be kept in paper bags with their parent bulbs in a frost-free, cool location. In the fall, offsets can be planted, but 25 cm deeper.
In the garden, species bulbs will self-seed. Allow the seed to distribute instead of deadheading to stimulate new growth.
Growing tulips: problem solving
Because the spores are carried by wind and rain, the fungal disease known as tulip fire (Botrytis tulipae) is especially problematic during wet seasons. Unattractive brown blotches can be seen all over the plant, as well as distorted and stunted shoots and leaves, which are indications. If any of your plants are impacted, get rid of them, burn them, and wait at least two years before planting tulips there again. Avoid this issue if you are preserving bulbs from year to year by immersing them in a fungal solution. The risk of the disease should be decreased by planting in November.
Are hybrid tulips replanted each year?
Darwin Hybrids, one of the most dependable perennials with mid-spring blooms, vivid colors, and sturdy stems, will return year after year for several springs when content. With stems that are 18–24” long, they are among the tallest tulips and have huge flowers that open to about 6” in diameter. Plant the bulbs in beds with other bulbs or among perennials so that they can shine while your perennials are growing before the perennials take over and hide the bulbs. Take Catmint, Beardtongue, Phlox, and Flax into consideration.
What distinguishes an annual tulip from a perennial one?
Perennials are bulbs that reappear each year, frequently with more flowers than before. Daffodils and crocuses are two excellent examples. Annual bulbs are those that only last one growing season, therefore you must plant fresh bulbs every year to achieve the same results.
But why don’t tulips frequently return to bloom a second or third season if they are perennials, as all the books and websites claim? What’s happening here?
Tulips are very royal, but they also have a bit of a rebellious streak. Officially speaking, they are perennials, but not everywhere or for everyone. Only if your garden is located in a village in the foothills of Nepal, or a town on the steppes of Armenia and Northern Iran, will tulips return year after year. These locations feature really chilly winters and scorching, dry summers—exactly what tulips require to thrive year after year.
But why do the best tulips come from Holland if these regions are so ideal for growing them? Here, creativity and engineering are put to use. We Dutch tulip producers benefit from two factors: gorgeous sandy soil and a century-old custom of being able to manipulate water to do whatever we want.
Because of the soil and our knowledge, we can grow bulbs that come back every year. The second half of this tulip con involves a bit more work because you need your original bulb to grow more each season if you want to sell fresh bulbs every year.
We put our bulbs through a difficult process of heat and humidity treatments before we plant them in the fall in an effort to as closely as possible imitate the tulip’s original habitat, even though it is almost 5000 miles away. We trick the bulbs into thinking they have experienced a frigid winter and a scorching summer. All of this calls for pricey temperature control systems, as well as considerable skill and knowledge.
Therefore, your best option if you don’t reside in Eastern Persia or Himchal Pradesh is to purchase fresh bulbs each year. By doing this, you can be sure that spring will be filled with your favorite tulips’ vibrant hues and plush blossoms.
However, there are still some things you can do to pull some of your tulips out of their yearly funk and give them an opportunity to demonstrate some enduring power:
- Tulips should always be planted in a well-drained environment. Make sure water can quickly drain away because the sooner the soil becomes moist, the sooner the bulbs will fall victim to fungus, disease, and decay.
- Plant your tulips deeply, at a depth of about 8 inches, to expose them to the harsh winter cold they need to encounter in order to properly bloom in the spring.
- Water your tulips as soon as they are planted to encourage the first growth and help them establish a robust and healthy root system.
- Cutting off the blossom heads at the proper time is essential if you want your bulbs to get the most power possible for their second or third round. However, avoid removing the lush foliage! Let it naturally wither and die. In this manner, the energy stored in the foliage will gradually “flow back” into the bulb, enabling it to produce more energy the following spring.
The Darwin Hybrids in red, orange, yellow, apricot, pink, and two-tone colors are a fantastic example of returning tulips, where the hybrids are actually even better “perennializers” than their originator species. Emperor tulips, Triumph tulips, and Miniature tulips are more varieties of tulips that will respond well to your perennializing assistance. The greatest blooms will appear in spring (and the spring after that, and the spring after that…) if you purchase them now and plant them in the fall.