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The herbaceous perennial plant echinacea, also referred to as purple coneflower, has four species and six variants that are all native to North America. This well-liked plant has been a staple in perennial gardens for more than 200 years. Indigenous people have historically utilized it as a medicinal herb in North America. In addition to offering several health advantages, it is also used as wild edible food. The name echinacea, which refers to the spiny center cone, is derived from the Greek word “echinos,” which means hedgehog.
Distinguishing Features
With its daisy-like purple/pink flowers and spiky seed cones, this heat- and drought-resistant shrub is highly distinctive. Touching the leaves feels scratchy.
Flowers
The flowers range in color from deep purple to pink, and the florets form a towering seed cone. Sharp spines cover this cone. Echinacea blooms around the middle of the summer and lasts for approximately a month before going into short-term hibernation. Early in the autumn, some plants could bloom once again.
What shape does an echinacea leaf have?
Echinacea plants belong to the same botanical family as sunflowers and daisies. The Asteraceae, often known as Compositae, is the name of this family.
Greek word echinos, which means hedgehog, is where the botanical name Echinacea derives from. You may understand why the plant was given its name by examining the spiky tiny cone at the middle of the petals.
Except for the vibrant blooms, the entire plant is shockingly stiff. Additionally, the leaves and stems frequently have stiff, tiny hairs covering them.
Next time you pass a coneflower plant, touch a leaf if you’ve never felt one before. Like the stems and the center of the blooms, they are solid and rough.
Perhaps for this reason, coneflowers are known to the Lakota as ica’hpehu, which is Lakota for “something used to knock anything down.”
The flowers, which are referred to as capitulas, are actually made up of a group of distinct blossoms known as ray and disc florets, just like those of other Asteraceae family members. From a botanical perspective, each of those petals you see is a separate flower.
The vibrant petals that cover the outside of the crown are called ray florets. The plant’s reputation as looking like a hedgehog is due to the stiff inner disc florets that protrude from the cone.
Although they don’t appear to be typical flowers, if you look closely, you can see an elongated stigma at the apex of the bloom that is covered in tiny pollen grains.
You may notice that the disc florets resemble petals if you dissect the capitula and remove a few of them.
The disc florets mature in whorls sequentially, beginning at the outside, after the ray florets, which mature first.
One whorl unwinds at the beginning of each day. These flowers develop into seeds in the autumn.
It’s the same concept as picturing a sunflower, with its center of seeds and halo of yellow ray florets.
The ray florets, by the way, exist solely to entice pollinators with their vibrant beauty. They cannot be pollinated, they cannot develop seed, and they can not carry pollen.
Coneflowers weren’t revered for their perfume until recently. The plant is known as ashosikwimia’kuk in Potawatomi. That means, approximately, “smells like muskrat fragrance.” This offensive smell seems to be more prevalent in wild species than in domesticated ones.
When I came close to a few of the E. purpurea varieties in my garden, I noticed that they had a very faint sweet aroma.
Today, there are a few varieties with a more alluring aroma. For instance, “Fragrant Angel” and “Tangerine Dream” have a powerful, pleasant scent.
With the exception of E. purpurea and E. laevigata, all echinacea species have lengthy taproots.
This indicates that these two species transplant well than others and benefit from a little bit more water. Taproot-producing species have long, thick roots that can expand to a diameter of an inch and a depth of eight feet.
Although there are nine recognized species, E. purpurea is by far the most prevalent and the one from which the majority of the hybrids and cultivars you can buy at garden centers are derived.
Coneflowers are able to cross-pollinate easily, therefore there are some natural variants that don’t quite fit the mold of one species.
The narrow-leaf coneflower (E. angustifolia), one of the most significant species for medicinal usage among native populations, is among the other species and has the broadest natural distribution. It resembles the ordinary purple coneflower in appearance.
The federal government presently lists the smooth coneflower (E. laevigata) as endangered. This one has smooth rather than hairy stems and exceedingly small ray florets that range in color from pale purple to pink.
Conservation efforts have assisted in saving the endangered Tennessee coneflower (E. tennesseensis) from extinction. Its original range, which is restricted to a region within a 14-mile radius in Nashville, Tennessee, may now be found everywhere in that region.
It stands out because the ray florets are upright rather than drooping, unlike most other species, despite having a hue similar to purple coneflower.
The thin leaves of the narrow-leaved purple (E. serotina), which is endemic to Louisiana and Arkansas, have extremely stiff hairs. Pale pink ray florets that can grow up to three inches long and be incredibly slender are present on the pale purple (E. pallida).
The pink or purple ray florets of sanguine purple (E. sanguinea) droop. Botanists used genetic testing to distinguish the wavyleaf purple (E. simulata), which shares a similar appearance with the species with pale purple leaves.
Coneflowers in the species Yellow (E. paradoxa) and Topeka Purple (E. atrorubens) have ray florets that are deep purple and fade to pale pink, respectively.
All species, with the exception of E. purpurea and E. angustifolia, are endangered or vulnerable in their natural habitats and may even be extinct in some regions of their previous range.
Because of this, many experts advise against gathering wild coneflowers unless you are confident of the species you are taking. It can be difficult to tell because all of these species have a similar appearance.
Native Americans employed echinacea for a variety of reasons, and it has long been regarded for its medical properties. Most tribes still use these items today.
For instance, the Cheyenne tribes utilize the leaves and roots topically to treat pain, and the Blackfoot tribes chew the roots to relieve toothaches, according to the book “Native American Medicinal Plants: An Ethnobotanical Dictionary by Daniel E. Moerman.
The Lakota chew the roots of echinacea to soothe an upset stomach and apply it as a poultice to alleviate edema.
People in Omaha call the mashed root inshtoghate-hi, which translates to “eyewash,” because they use it as a treatment for burns and eye issues.
Similar to how it was previously used by the Teton, Sioux, Winnebago, Montana, and Ponca peoples, this plant is also used by them.
The Cheyenne and Dakota tribes also employ the pale purple coneflower for a variety of medical treatments, including treating boils and headaches, easing arthritis pain, preventing thirst, easing sore throats, easing cold symptoms, and curing snake bites.
Echinacea is smoked by Dakotans to treat headaches and as a toxic countermeasure.
By the way, you can get a copy of Moerman’s thorough book on Amazon if you’re interested in learning more about how indigenous peoples used coneflowers and other medicinal plants.
Is echinacea reintroduced annually?
Yes, because echinacea is such a prolific self-seeder, it will come back every year and frequently in the most unexpected places.
The perennial echinacea is resilient and can withstand extremely chilly winters. Plants go dormant in the winter and reappear in the spring; you should prune them back at this time for the summer.
An important component of the appeal of these perennial favorites is the ease with which they can be grown.
How does echinacea look as it develops?
Echinaceas are clump-forming perennials that can reach mature sizes of up to four feet tall and 12-36 inches wide. The variety affects the size. Large blooms with cone-shaped centers are carried on long, straight stalks by plants with an upright habit.
Staking: Because of their hardiness, these plants rarely need staking. Plants in partial shade can occasionally get tall and leggy. Plants can be staked by using a single stake and delicate thread to tie individual stalks to the stake.
Watering: Echinacea requires little water, but you’ll need to water young plants to encourage the development of new roots. Following planting, this is typically followed by a cycle of daily or every other day watering, then a few times per week, once per week, every other week, and finally only when there is an extreme drought in your area. You shouldn’t need to water Echinacea at all after the second year of planting unless it hasn’t rained for eight weeks or longer. They can withstand droughts so well.
Fertilizing: Since most perennials want to live simply, they don’t require regular doses of fertilizer. Unless your garden has special nutrient deficiencies, mulching Echinacea plants with compost in the spring should be sufficient. Obtain a soil test if your plants are producing a lot of leaves but no blossoms or if the leaves are an odd color (purple or yellow) to identify the nutrients that the plants are deficient in and treat accordingly.
What distinguishes echinacea from a coneflower?
One of the three distinct genera referred to as coneflowers is echinacea. Echinacea angustifolia and Echinacea purpurea are two well-known members of the Echinacea genus. Purple coneflowers, or (more ambiguously) plain coneflowers, is the common name for members of the Echinacea species. The only coneflower genus that most people are familiar with by name is the Echinacea one because of its reputation as a medicinal plant.
How can the leaves of Rudbeckia and Echinacea be distinguished from one another?
The flower’s color and look may be the most obvious distinction between the two species. While rudbeckia is a vivid yellow or orange with a yellow or black center, echinacea is often pink and black or purple and black in hue. The echinacea flower is also slightly bigger, and depending on how heavy the flower heads are, it may need to be supported. Echinacea petals often bend down and outward from the center of the flower, although rudbeckia petals also extend outward. On long, emerald stems with robust roots and alternately arranged green leaves, both flowers develop.
Echinacea deadheading is recommended.
Despite the fact that the majority of us would want to spend the entire day in our gardens, real life interferes. Instead, we choose simple, low-maintenance plants that, despite only requiring a few minutes here and there of care, give the impression that we spent hours in the garden. Coneflower is a plant that I frequently recommend since it can withstand poor soil, extreme heat, drought, full sun to part shade, and it blooms continually whether you deadhead it or not.
Aren’t coneflowers sounding quite good right now? Getting better Echinacea attracts and feeds pollinators and a variety of butterflies when it is in bloom (such as Fritillaries, Swallowtails, Skippers, Viceroy, Red Admiral, American Lady, Painted Lady, and Silvery Checkerspot).
After they stop blooming, their seed-covered “cones serve as a valuable source of food for many birds from late summer to winter (such as goldfinches, chickadees, blue jays, cardinals, and pine siskins). Therefore, when people ask me about deadheading Echinacea plants, I normally advise them to only do it during the flowering period in order to keep the plant looking lovely, but to leave fallen flowers in the late summer to early winter for the birds.
In order to stop Echinacea from reseeding itself all over the garden, you can also deadhead it. Older forms of coneflower can self-seed, though not quite as aggressively as Rudbeckia. Newer hybrids typically do not self-sow and do not generate viable seed. Birds aren’t really interested in these more recent hybrids either.
What is the ideal location to grow echinacea?
Echinacea, sometimes known as coneflowers, is a hardy perennial in the daisy family (Asteraceae). They are indigenous to the eastern and central United States, from Colorado to Texas in the south and the Great Lakes in the north. Here is how to cultivate this native American plant in your garden.
About Coneflowers
These quick-growing plants have a height range of 2 to 4 feet, blossom from midsummer till the first fall frost, and self-sow profusely. Coneflowers are named for their elevated, conical centers that draw bees and butterflies. The seed heads draw songbirds like goldfinches once they blossom. Once they are established in a conventional garden or a meadow of wildflowers, coneflowers enjoy the heat and are trouble-free.
The majority of echinacea species are purple (E. purpurea), but there are up to nine naturally occurring varieties that are yellow or purple (E. paradox). More sizes and colors are available with hybrids, but there are drawbacks as well: many of them lack genetic diversity and are sterile, which means they cannot produce viable seed.
The lower stem of the plant, which is frequently prickly, is referred to by its genus name Echinacea, which is derived from the Latin word for hedgehog, echinus. Coneflowers are so named because their elevated, cone-shaped centers are filled with seeds that draw butterflies. After bloom, leave the seed heads on the plant to draw in songbirds like goldfinches! They are less susceptible to deer than other floral plants since they are native plants with thorny stems.
When grown in large groups, coneflowers are spectacular, especially when they are a combination of different colors.
Coneflowers prefer soil that drains well and direct sunlight. Although coneflowers can thrive in a variety of soil types, nutrient-rich soil is where they bloom at their finest. 12 to 15 inches of loose soil should be added, along with a 2 to 4 inch layer of compost or aged manure. Pick a spot where the coneflowers won’t be shaded out or languish in soggy ground. If the correct circumstances exist, they will spread quickly. (Read up on how to get soil ready for planting.)
When to Plant Coneflowers
Coneflowers are typically purchased as little plants that will soon bloom. Planting time for these should be in the spring, early summer, or fall.
- Coneflowers should be planted while they are young and will bloom in the spring or early summer.
- Eight to ten weeks prior to the last spring frost date, seeds can be started inside. Alternately, plant them outside after the soil has warmed to at least 65°F (18°C). Plants grown from seeds are unlikely to blossom for two to three years.
- Note: Coneflower plants will rapidly self-seed if you don’t clip them back.
- Coneflowers should only be divided or moved in the spring or fall.
How to Plant Coneflowers
- Coneflowers should be spaced 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the variety’s mature size.
- Dig a hole that is almost twice as wide as the pot if you are planting from one. The root ball of the plant should be level with the soil surface when it is placed. To the top of the root ball, fill in.
- At planting, give it plenty of water.
- To help keep plants wet and discourage weeds, cover the soil top with thin layers of compost, followed by mulch.
Learn more about the advantages of planting coneflowers by watching our video:
Coneflowers can withstand drought, although young plants require water from time to time, and more frequently if the spring is particularly dry.
- To help keep the plants wet and discourage weeds, mulch and compost in thin layers should be placed around them.
- Fertilizer is rarely needed in native soil. When you plant, make sure your soil has a lot of organic matter.
- If the spring is particularly dry or your coneflowers are recently planted, just add extra water in the late spring.
- When flowers start to fade, deadhead to extend the bloom duration. Trim stems to a leaf close to a bud. Late-season deadheading stops self-seeding and bird feeding.
- Optional: When coneflower plants bloom, prune them back by a foot to promote delayed blooming for fall enjoyment. Because coneflowers have a tendency to become lanky, this will result in later blossoming and more compact growth. For more evenly spaced bloom heights and periods, cut certain flowers but not others.
- August could bring on beneficial army beetles that resemble wasps. They pollinate plants and eat bug eggs and larvae. Avoid hurting them.
- In cooler areas, scatter mulch around plants in the late fall.
- When stems wilt or after a hard cold, trim them back to the soil line. Cut back in the late winter to encourage self-seeding. When cleaning up the garden in the late winter or early spring, prune back the plants.
- Optional: Think about allowing late-season flowers to develop on the plants. Birds will be drawn to the seed heads, which will encourage self-seeding. If you prefer not to have self-seeding, deadheading will stop it. Cut the dead flower back to a leaf where you can see a bud that is about to swell in order to deadhead.
- Coneflowers can be divided or moved in the spring or fall.
Growing Coneflowers in Pots
Coneflowers are often grown in the ground as perennial plants, but you can grow them in pots if the pots are deep enough to accommodate the plant’s taproot. Use containers with drainage holes that are at least 2 or 3 gallons in size. For drainage, spread crushed gravel in the pots’ bottoms. With potting mix, halfway fill the pot. Slow down. Spread the roots out and plant the root ball an inch below the container’s rim. Gently press down the soil after adding it gradually until it is level with the top of the root ball. Deep breathing.
- Place pots in full morning sun and half afternoon shade after keeping them in partial shade for two to three days.
- Always deeply water the soil when it feels dry to the touch. There is a risk of fungus from water on leaves.
- Every few weeks, fertilize the soil with a water-soluble 10-10-10 product.
- For sustained flowering, remove the dead flowerheads slightly below the flower’s base.
- When plant development slows in the fall, trim plants to the soil level to overwinter them.
- Move to a spot with low to moderate indirect light and a cool (40 to 50 °F) temperature.
- Every few weeks, check the soil and water it lightly if the top 3 inches are dry.
- If new growth starts to sprout in the spring, relocate to a warmer (60 to 70 °F) and more sunny spot. Moving the plant aids in preparing it for life in the spring and summer outdoors.
- Avoid watering leaves from above since this can promote fungus on the leaves. Instead, hydrate the soil. If you notice any bugs or aphids, use a neem oil solution spray or an insecticidal soap.
- Dividing and repotting echinacea plants every three to four years following the start of new growth is recommended.
- Echinacea purpurea cultivar “Robert Bloom” features pronounced, dark orange centers and vivid scarlet flower petals.
- The dark mauve flower petals of Tennessee coneflower (Echinacea tennesseensis) have greenish-pink centers.
- Echinacea purpurea’s “Finale White” variety includes flower heads that are creamy white with greenish-brown cores.
- The soft-yellow petals of the hybrid echinacea “Cleopatra” have golden-green cores.