Echinacea, sometimes known as coneflowers, is a hardy perennial in the daisy family (Asteraceae). They are indigenous to the eastern and central United States, from Colorado to Texas in the south and the Great Lakes in the north. Here is how to cultivate this native American plant in your garden.
About Coneflowers
These quick-growing plants have a height range of 2 to 4 feet, blossom from midsummer till the first fall frost, and self-sow profusely. Coneflowers are named for their elevated, conical centers that draw bees and butterflies. The seed heads draw songbirds like goldfinches once they blossom. Once they are established in a conventional garden or a meadow of wildflowers, coneflowers enjoy the heat and are trouble-free.
The majority of echinacea species are purple (E. purpurea), but there are up to nine naturally occurring varieties that are yellow or purple (E. paradox). More sizes and colors are available with hybrids, but there are drawbacks as well: many of them lack genetic diversity and are sterile, which means they cannot produce viable seed.
The lower stem of the plant, which is frequently prickly, is referred to by its genus name Echinacea, which is derived from the Latin word for hedgehog, echinus. Coneflowers are so named because their elevated, cone-shaped centers are filled with seeds that draw butterflies. After bloom, leave the seed heads on the plant to draw in songbirds like goldfinches! They are less susceptible to deer than other floral plants since they are native plants with thorny stems.
When grown in large groups, coneflowers are spectacular, especially when they are a combination of different colors.
Coneflowers prefer soil that drains well and direct sunlight. Although coneflowers can thrive in a variety of soil types, nutrient-rich soil is where they bloom at their finest. 12 to 15 inches of loose soil should be added, along with a 2 to 4 inch layer of compost or aged manure. Pick a spot where the coneflowers won’t be shaded out or languish in soggy ground. If the correct circumstances exist, they will spread quickly. (Read up on how to get soil ready for planting.)
When to Plant Coneflowers
Coneflowers are typically purchased as little plants that will soon bloom. Planting time for these should be in the spring, early summer, or fall.
- Coneflowers should be planted while they are young and will bloom in the spring or early summer.
- Seeds can be started indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost last spring frost date. Alternately, plant them outside after the soil has warmed to at least 65°F (18°C). Plants grown from seeds are unlikely to blossom for two to three years.
- Note: Coneflower plants will rapidly self-seed if you don’t clip them back.
- Coneflowers should only be divided or moved in the spring or fall.
How to Plant Coneflowers
- Coneflowers should be spaced 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the variety’s mature size.
- Dig a hole that is roughly twice as wide as the pot if you are planting from one. The root ball of the plant should be level with the soil surface when it is placed. To the top of the root ball, fill in.
- At planting, give it plenty of water.
- To help keep plants moist and discourage weeds, cover the soil surface with thin layers of compost, followed by mulch.
Learn more about the advantages of planting coneflowers by watching our video:
Coneflowers can withstand drought, although young plants require water from time to time, and more frequently if the spring is particularly dry.
- To help keep the plants wet and discourage weeds, mulch and compost in thin layers should be placed around them.
- Fertilizer is rarely needed in native soil. When you plant, make sure your soil has a lot of organic matter.
- If the spring is particularly dry or your coneflowers are recently planted, just add extra water in the late spring.
- When flowers start to fade, deadhead to extend the bloom duration. Trim stems to a leaf close to a bud. Late-season deadheading stops self-seeding and bird feeding.
- Optional: When coneflower plants bloom, prune them back by a foot to promote delayed blooming for fall enjoyment. Because coneflowers have a tendency to become lanky, this will result in later blossoming and more compact growth. For more evenly spaced bloom heights and periods, cut certain flowers but not others.
- August could bring on beneficial army beetles that resemble wasps. They pollinate plants and eat bug eggs and larvae. Avoid hurting them.
- In cooler areas, scatter mulch around plants in the late fall.
- When stems wilt or after a hard cold, trim them back to the soil line. Cut back in the late winter to encourage self-seeding. When cleaning up the garden in the late winter or early spring, prune back the plants.
- Optional: Think about allowing late-season flowers to develop on the plants. Birds will be drawn to the seed heads, which will encourage self-seeding. If you prefer not to have self-seeding, deadheading will stop it. Cut the dead flower back to a leaf where you can see a bud that is about to swell in order to deadhead.
- Coneflowers can be divided or moved in the spring or fall.
Growing Coneflowers in Pots
Coneflowers are often grown in the ground as perennial plants, but you can grow them in pots if the pots are deep enough to accommodate the plant’s taproot. Use containers with drainage holes that are at least 2 or 3 gallons in size. For drainage, spread crushed gravel in the pots’ bottoms. With potting mix, halfway fill the pot. Slow down. Spread the roots out and plant the root ball an inch below the container’s rim. Gently press down the soil after adding it gradually until it is level with the top of the root ball. Deep breathing.
- Place pots in full morning sun and half afternoon shade after keeping them in partial shade for two to three days.
- Always deeply water the soil when it feels dry to the touch. There is a risk of fungus from water on leaves.
- Every few weeks, fertilize the soil with a water-soluble 10-10-10 product.
- For sustained flowering, remove the dead flowerheads slightly below the flower’s base.
- When plant development slows in the fall, trim plants to the soil level to overwinter them.
- Move to a spot with low to moderate indirect light and a cool (40 to 50 °F) temperature.
- Every few weeks, check the soil and water it lightly if the top 3 inches are dry.
- If new growth starts to sprout in the spring, relocate to a warmer (60 to 70 °F) and more sunny spot. Moving the plant aids in preparing it for life in the spring and summer outdoors.
- Avoid watering leaves from above since this can promote fungus on the leaves. Instead, hydrate the soil. If you notice any bugs or aphids, use a neem oil solution spray or an insecticidal soap.
- Dividing and repotting echinacea plants every three to four years following the start of new growth is recommended.
- Echinacea purpurea cultivar “Robert Bloom” features pronounced, dark orange centers and vivid scarlet flower petals.
- The dark mauve flower petals of Tennessee coneflower (Echinacea tennesseensis) have greenish-pink cores.
- Echinacea purpurea’s “Finale White” variety includes flower heads that are creamy white with greenish-brown cores.
- The soft-yellow petals of the hybrid echinacea “Cleopatra” have golden-green cores.
What do the leaves of a coneflower resemble?
Echinacea plants belong to the same botanical family as sunflowers and daisies. The Asteraceae, often known as Compositae, is the name of this family.
Greek word echinos, which means hedgehog, is where the botanical name Echinacea derives from. You may understand why the plant was given its name by examining the spiky tiny cone at the middle of the petals.
Except for the vibrant blooms, the entire plant is shockingly stiff. Additionally, the leaves and stems frequently have stiff, tiny hairs covering them.
Next time you pass a coneflower plant, touch a leaf if you’ve never felt one before. Like the stems and the center of the blooms, they are solid and rough.
Perhaps for this reason, coneflowers are known to the Lakota as ica’hpehu, which is Lakota for “something used to knock anything down.”
The flowers, which are referred to as capitulas, are actually made up of a group of distinct blossoms known as ray and disc florets, just like those of other Asteraceae family members. From a botanical perspective, each of those petals you see is a separate flower.
The vibrant petals that cover the outside of the crown are called ray florets. The plant’s reputation as looking like a hedgehog is due to the stiff inner disc florets that protrude from the cone.
Although they don’t appear to be typical flowers, if you look closely, you can see an elongated stigma at the apex of the bloom that is covered in tiny pollen grains.
You may notice that the disc florets resemble petals if you dissect the capitula and remove a few of them.
The disc florets mature in whorls sequentially, beginning at the outside, after the ray florets, which mature first.
One whorl unwinds at the beginning of each day. These flowers develop into seeds in the autumn.
It’s the same concept as picturing a sunflower, with its center of seeds and halo of yellow ray florets.
The ray florets, by the way, exist solely to entice pollinators with their vibrant beauty. They cannot be pollinated, they cannot develop seed, and they can not carry pollen.
Coneflowers weren’t revered for their perfume until recently. The plant is known as ashosikwimia’kuk in Potawatomi. That means, approximately, “smells like muskrat fragrance.” This offensive smell seems to be more prevalent in wild species than in domesticated ones.
When I came close to a few of the E. purpurea varieties in my garden, I noticed that they had a very faint sweet aroma.
Today, there are a few varieties with a more alluring aroma. For instance, “Fragrant Angel” and “Tangerine Dream” have a powerful, pleasant scent.
With the exception of E. purpurea and E. laevigata, all echinacea species have lengthy taproots.
This indicates that these two species transplant well than others and benefit from a little bit more water. Taproot-producing species have long, thick roots that can expand to a diameter of an inch and a depth of eight feet.
Although there are nine recognized species, E. purpurea is by far the most prevalent and the one from which the majority of the hybrids and cultivars you can buy at garden centers are derived.
Coneflowers are able to cross-pollinate easily, therefore there are some natural variants that don’t quite fit the mold of one species.
The narrow-leaf coneflower (E. angustifolia), one of the most significant species for medicinal usage among native populations, is among the other species and has the broadest natural distribution. It resembles the ordinary purple coneflower in appearance.
The federal government presently lists the smooth coneflower (E. laevigata) as endangered. This one has smooth rather than hairy stems and exceedingly small ray florets that range in color from pale purple to pink.
Conservation efforts have assisted in saving the endangered Tennessee coneflower (E. tennesseensis) from extinction. Its original range, which is restricted to a region within a 14-mile radius in Nashville, Tennessee, may now be found everywhere in that region.
It stands out because the ray florets are upright rather than drooping, unlike most other species, despite having a hue similar to purple coneflower.
The thin leaves of the narrow-leaved purple (E. serotina), which is endemic to Louisiana and Arkansas, have extremely stiff hairs. Pale pink ray florets that can grow up to three inches long and be incredibly slender are present on the pale purple (E. pallida).
The pink or purple ray florets of sanguine purple (E. sanguinea) droop. Botanists used genetic testing to distinguish the wavyleaf purple (E. simulata), which shares a similar appearance with the species with pale purple leaves.
Coneflowers in the species Yellow (E. paradoxa) and Topeka Purple (E. atrorubens) have ray florets that are deep purple and fade to pale pink, respectively.
All species, with the exception of E. purpurea and E. angustifolia, are endangered or vulnerable in their natural habitats and may even be extinct in some regions of their previous range.
Because of this, many experts advise against gathering wild coneflowers unless you are confident of the species you are taking. It can be difficult to tell because all of these species have a similar appearance.
Native Americans employed echinacea for a variety of reasons, and it has long been regarded for its medical properties. Most tribes still use these items today.
For instance, the Cheyenne tribes utilize the leaves and roots topically to treat pain, and the Blackfoot tribes chew the roots to relieve toothaches, according to the book “Native American Medicinal Plants: An Ethnobotanical Dictionary by Daniel E. Moerman.
The Lakota chew the roots of echinacea to soothe an upset stomach and apply it as a poultice to alleviate edema.
People in Omaha call the mashed root inshtoghate-hi, which translates to “eyewash,” because they use it as a treatment for burns and eye issues.
Similar to how it was previously used by the Teton, Sioux, Winnebago, Montana, and Ponca peoples, this plant is also used by them.
The Cheyenne and Dakota tribes also employ the pale purple coneflower for a variety of medical treatments, including treating boils and headaches, easing arthritis pain, preventing thirst, easing sore throats, easing cold symptoms, and curing snake bites.
Echinacea is smoked by Dakotans to treat headaches and as a toxic countermeasure.
By the way, you can get a copy of Moerman’s thorough book on Amazon if you’re interested in learning more about how indigenous peoples used coneflowers and other medicinal plants.
Coneflowers will they return each year?
- Before cutting down to the ground to get ready for fresh growth in the spring, let plants stand through the winter to provide food for wildlife.
Coneflowers are a must-grow if you appreciate watching pollinators buzz and flit about lovely, trouble-free flowers that bloom for a long time. Although purple coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea) are the most prevalent, there are many new coneflower cultivars available in a rainbow of cheery hues, including pink, yellow, orange, red, and white. These flowers don’t just provide joy for a short time; they return year after year because they are perennials.
Because of the “cone that starts to poke up in the center of the circle of petals as each flower matures, coneflowers get their name. Actually, this is a group of seed heads that, when allowed to dry on the plant, serve as Mother Nature’s bird feeder, luring a large number of cardinals, goldfinches, and other hungry birds.
How to Choose Coneflowers
Which of the dozens of different coneflower kinds should you grow? The quickest response is: whichever ones you deem attractive and have room for (check the plant tag for info on this). Want some recommendations? Use these
- There are numerous native coneflower species, but the purple coneflower, which typically reaches heights of 2 to 4 feet, is the most well-known.
- ‘White Swan’ is a well-known variety that grows up to 4 feet tall and has big white blossoms among other widely available types.
- A lot of dwarf coneflower types, like “Kim’s Knee High,” remain fairly compact (with pinkish-purple flowers). If you have a small garden, consider planting them because you will get many blossoms in a short amount of space.
- Coneflower variants are also available that hardly resemble coneflowers at all, notably hybrid double types with two rows of petals. Just be mindful that some of plants produce flowers that fade more quickly than others in the garden.
Where to Plant Coneflowers
Coneflowers should be planted in an area with at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. However, in warmer climates (zones 8 and higher), a little midday shadow is beneficial because it will prevent the blooms from fading. As a result of their clump-forming nature, these plants won’t spread as widely as some other perennials. If you leave blossoms in situ, many of the older kinds may self-seed, which is a simple way to grow new plants!
Coneflowers grow best in the spring, after all threat of frost has passed. You can plant in the early fall as well. Just make sure your new plants have at least 6 weeks before the first anticipated frost to form roots; otherwise, they might not reappear in the spring.
How to Prepare the Soil for Planting Coneflowers
Coneflower roots need a healthy environment to flourish, so strengthen your natural in-ground soil by adding 3 inches of Miracle-Gro Garden Soil for Flowers to the top 6 inches of soil. The Moisture Control technology in this nutrient-rich garden soil helps to safeguard plants when they unintentionally receive too much or too little water. Additionally, if you use Miracle-Gro soil and plant food (and adhere to all instructions), you’ll get up to three times as many blossoms during the growing season (compared to unfed), so be sure to read the part below on “How to Feed Coneflowers.” Just one coneflower planted? Make a hole, then mix garden soil and the recently excavated earth 50:50.
1. Determine the location where you’ll plant your coneflowers, making sure to allow enough room between each plant. (The plant tag ought should indicate how much room you need.)
2. Create a hole for each plant that is identical in depth and width to the root ball.
3. To give root growth a boost for the first 30 days, drop a Miracle-Gro Quick Start Planting Tablet into the planting hole (as per the instructions on the label).
4. Remove a coneflower plant from its pot and insert it into the gap. The top of the root ball should be level with the surrounding soil.
5. Fill in the area surrounding the plant and firm up the dirt there.
6. Water sources.
7. Spread a 3-inch layer of mulch around the plant, being careful not to let it contact the stem, to help keep the soil moist and to block sunlight so weeds can’t develop.
How to Stake Coneflowers
Coneflowers rarely need to be staked because of their sturdy branches and large flowerheads. However, if you do encounter floppy plants, drive a strong stake close to the middle of the plant (avoid going through the plant), and then loosely wrap twine around the stake and the individual stems. Or, you might spend money on a spherical flower clumping stake. In either case, the finished product should appear natural, not constricted around the plant’s middle.
How to Water Coneflowers
Coneflowers can tolerate drought pretty well once they’ve had some time to establish themselves. Check on them every other day after planting; if the top inch of soil is dry, thoroughly water. Your coneflowers’ droopy leaves are another indication that they need water. Coneflowers shouldn’t require watering after a full growth season in the garden unless it hasn’t rained in at least two months.
How to Feed Coneflowers
Want a ton of lovely flowers? As soon as fresh leaves begin to grow in the spring, begin feeding your coneflowers Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Bloom Booster Plant Food. Your plants will grow bigger and produce more blooms as a result of this flower feast, which gets to work right away. Additionally, since you may apply water-soluble fertilizer when watering, it won’t require any extra time to do so.
How to Deadhead and Prune Coneflowers
Deadhead coneflowers frequently at the start of the bloom season to promote greater flowering by removing the faded blossoms before they set seed. Always prune back to a leaf or section of the stem where a new bud is visible. You can just leave them alone later in the season when the plant starts to produce fewer blooms.
To feed the birds over the winter, let the plants alone. Prune them to the ground in late winter. In the early spring, leaves will appear at ground level, soon to be followed by flower stalks.
Try this simple trimming tip to prolong the blooming period of your plants’ coneflowers by at least a season. Cut back some of the stems by half as they start to grow again in the spring to postpone flowering on those stalks. The cut stems will lend their beauty a bit later in the season after the uncut stems have finished blooming.
Can I Divide Coneflowers?
Coneflowers don’t require dividing like some perennials do in order to thrive. They are difficult to divide because each plant has a single taproot. Therefore, simply let them be.