The plant genus Euphorbia (Euphorbia spp.) contains more than 2,000 species. Around 1,200 of them are succulents, some of which have odd shapes and broad, mushy leaves, while others remarkably resemble cactus and have spines. The genus’ plants are frequently referred to as spurge or euphorbia by growers.
With repeated additions and deletions of species and subgenera, Euphorbia is a somewhat ambiguous genus. The genus contains species that are annual, perennial, and biennial. There are species of herbaceous plants, woody shrubs, as well as deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs. The presence of a milky white sap in the plants is the defining trait among the species.
Most of the euphorbia species utilized for landscaping or as indoor plants are succulents with interesting forms and foliage, but a handful are also prized for their blooms. The poinsettia is one of the most well-known euphorbia species that is not a succulent.
The majority of euphorbias flower in the spring or summer and hibernate over the winter. Most species should be planted in the spring, when the risk of frost has gone, however houseplants can usually be started at any time. The growth rates of the species range from slowly to rather swiftly.
Euphorbia is poisonous to dogs, cats, and humans in all forms. Each plant species has a different amount of toxicity.
How should a Euphorbia plant be cared for?
Spurge typically needs full sun and well-drained soil. No one in the family is picky about the soil’s quality, however some can accept shadier surroundings. They may even survive in extremely poor soils and resist dry spells.
The upkeep of euphorbia plants is easy. Give them some light, a little moisture, and keep an eye out for pesky insects like whiteflies. To avoid powdery mildew, provide water underneath the plant’s leaves.
Spurge won’t require much fertilizing. Prior to feeding your plants with a water-soluble plant food, wait until the bottom leaves become yellow.
When the plant becomes out of control, prune. These plants are virtually unkillable and an excellent option for beginning gardeners. Growing Euphorbia to give to a friend is another excellent hobby for a novice.
Is euphorbia a seasonal or perennial plant?
Euphorbias are resilient, trouble-free perennial plants that are simple to grow. Euphorbias are well known for their distinctive flowers and brilliantly colored leaves, and they make wonderful additions to borders, rock gardens, meadows, and more.
What uses does the euphorbia plant have?
An herb is euphorbia. Medicine is made from the portions of the plant that are grown above ground.
Breathing diseases like asthma, bronchitis, and chest congestion are treated with euphorbia. It is also used to treat tumors, hay fever, throat spasms, and nasal and throat mucus. Some take it to make themselves throw up.
It is additionally employed in India to treat worms, dysentery, gonorrhea, and digestive issues.
Where would be the ideal location to plant a Euphorbia?
In general, euphorbias need a sunny location and rich, well-drained soil. Light types, meanwhile, can tolerate some shade and do well as ground cover around shrubs and trees.
How to plant euphorbias
Dig a deep hole when planting euphorbias that have been cultivated in pots and fill it with compost or leaf mould. Euphorbia should be planted firmly, then it should be watered well and mulched to keep moisture in and weeds out.
Here, Monty Don proposes two exceptional euphorbia species and provides planting instructions. Additionally, he offers advice on how to grow euphorbias from cuttings.
How to care for euphorbias
As long as the growing environment is favorable, euphorbias don’t need feeding or special care. After the blooms have faded, blooming stems should be pruned. However, gloves must always be used when working with euphorbias because their milky sap is hazardous if consumed and irritates the skin and eyes.
How to propagate euphorbias
Euphorbias can be grown by taking springtime cuttings. Wear gloves to protect your hands from the sap.
By collecting cuttings of Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii in the spring, you can learn how simple and gratifying euphorbia propagation is. Monty Don offers advice on how to maintain the cuttings’ viability, plant them, and shield your hands from the irritating sap:
Should Euphorbia be reduced in size?
Euphorbias are a lovely addition to any garden since they add color in the spring and summer and have attractively shaped foliage. They also have vivid, colorful bracts.
Some evergreen euphorbias just require their faded blooms to be trimmed back once they have finished flowering. Others have biennial stems that must be trimmed to the ground after flowering, like several Euphorbia charcacia kinds. Fall is the time to trim down deciduous plants to the ground.
Wear gloves when handling euphorbias because they all have a thick, milky sap that can irritate the skin and eyes.
Can Euphorbia be grown outdoors?
- 1.Poinsettia: Popular Christmastime plants include poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima). During the holiday season, you may buy these potted plants in brilliant red at florists and garden retailers. Bracts, which are modified colored leaves that also exist in yellow, white, and pink variations, are a feature of poinsettias. With careful care, a poinsettia you receive as a gift can survive your Christmas tree and blossom again the following winter.
- 2. Crown of thorns: Also known as Christ plant or Christ thorn, the crown of thorns (Euphorbia milii) is a low-maintenance plant that adapts well to both indoor and outdoor environments. Green leaves and tiny, vibrant blooms are features of crown of thorn plants. A milky sap is released when the plant’s sharp, prickly stems and branches are damaged. You should be aware that crown of thorns have a high level of toxicity and can be dangerous to both animals and people if consumed if you’re thinking of keeping one indoors.
- 3. Euphorbia amygdaloides ‘Efanthia’ wood spurge: This species of wood spurge is an evergreen herbaceous perennial that is distinguished by its chartreuse, yellow-green flowers.
Are euphorbias contagious?
The ideal plant for growing beneath large trees is Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae, one of the few species that grows in poor, dry soil in shadow. It grows through subterranean runners and finally forms a low carpet that smothers weeds. From spring to early summer, it produces erect spikes of lime green blooms in contrast to the dark glossy leaves. It serves as a good evergreen foil all year long for other shade-loving plants. It has received The Royal Horticultural Society’s esteemed Award of Garden Merit (AGM).
Grow Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae in partially to completely shaded, well-drained soil. Trim back fading flower stems in the fall. Every spring, as part of routine border maintenance, remove undesirable seedlings.
Wear gloves whenever handling euphorbias. The creamy sap irritates the skin.
Euphorbias are they invasive?
Northern California is home to isolated occurrences of Euphorbia esula, which is displacing native plant species. Prairies, grasslands, and pine savannahs are just a few of the vegetation types it can invade and take over.
What are Euphorbia’s side effects?
Euphorbia cyparissia is NOT SAFE to consume when taken orally. The plant contains compounds that can lead to cancer as well as a deadly white milky liquid known as white latex. Products that are either fresh or dried are dangerous. Euphorbia cyparissias can make people feel sick, throw up, have diarrhea, and their mouths may burn. When used in large doses, it produces collapse, dilated pupils, dizziness, severe diarrhea, near unconsciousness, and irregular pulse.
It is NOT SAFE to apply Euphorbia cyparissias to the skin. It can lead to blisters, irritation, blistering, reddening, rash, and itching. Getting Euphorbia cyparissias in the eye can damage the cornea and other components of the eye, as well as cause swelling of the eye and eyelid.
Do Euphorbia plants contain poison?
The milky secretion of the Euphorbia plant, sometimes known as latex, is extremely poisonous and irritating to the skin and eyes. This study provides an illustration of the range of ocular inflammation brought on by unintentional ingestion of Euphorbia plant latex. Three patients came in with recently developed accidental ocular exposure to milky sap of a Euphorbia species. In all cases, there was a significant burning sensation along with vision blur. Visual acuity decreased to counting fingers from 20/60. Clinical findings ranged from anterior uveitis to secondary increased intraocular pressure, mild to severe corneal edema, epithelial defects, and keratoconjunctivitis. With active supportive treatment, all symptoms and indicators disappeared after 10 to 14 days. When handling euphorbia plants, wear safety goggles. Asking the patient to bring a sample of the plant for identification is usually advisable.
Trees, succulents, and herbaceous plants all belong to the Euphorbiaceae genus.
[1] There are numerous kinds of Euphorbia that can be found growing in the wild or in gardens or homes as cultivated examples. The milky sap or latex is poisonous and can cause severe skin and eye problems. From moderate conjunctivitis to severe kerato-uveitis, ocular toxic response can vary [2]. There are a few case reports of people losing their sight permanently as a result of accidentally putting Euphorbia sap in their eyes. [24] Corneal involvement typically proceeds in a predictable order, with edema getting worse and epithelial sloughing on the second day. [3,5] Some species are thought to be more poisonous than others. [6] The inflammation usually goes away without leaving any aftereffects when it is promptly treated and carefully maintained. Here, we show three instances of ocular toxicity brought on by three distinct Euphorbia species: E. trigona (African milk tree), E. neriifolia (Indian spurge tree), and E. milii (Crown-of-thorns houseplant).
Can euphorbia be grown indoors?
Have a space in your home that receives a lot of light and begs for a plant? With the right care and attention, columnar euphorbia, which are intricate, sculptural succulents, will thrive inside. Continue reading for information on growing euphorbia as indoor plants as well as other fascinating facts about this beautiful plant. So come choose your favorite euphorbia at Flora Grubb Gardens, our store in San Francisco!
Let’s first address the biggest issue in the room: euphorbia are not cactus!
Despite having a similar appearance, cactus and columnar euphorbia are separate plants. You may observe the cactus’ rigid, upright trunk and arms if you look at a Saguaro. It grows in the desert and has spikes to protect itself from predators. Then take a look at a candelabra tree, which is a kind of euphorbia and has arms that are spiky for defense. In the desert, candelabra trees can also be found. What makes a difference, then? Contrary to popular belief, there are no cacti outside of the “New World.” Surely Africa has cacti, right? True, there are no cacti in Africa.
Understanding convergent evolution, which is described as “the process by which creatures that are not closely related independently evolve identical features as a result of needing to adapt to comparable habitats or ecological niches,” is necessary to reconcile this finding. In summary, because they were compelled to evolve in the same manner and under comparable circumstances, cactus and euphorbia are almost identical. Because this is an effective method for storing water, they are columnar. Spikes are used to protect that water. Despite having a similar appearance, they are totally unrelated despite having diverged over vast distances.
How do we tell the difference, then? The key differentiator is the flowers. Cactus blossoms are enormous, delicate, and frequently vividly colored. They are frequently pollinated by birds or bats. Fly pollination is common for euphorbia blooms, which are tiny, often green, and somewhat unimpressive. Whereas at first glance the spikes appear to be similar, closer examination reveals that euphorbia has thorns while cactus has spines (a modified leaf) (a modified stem). The majority of euphorbia have a toxic latex sap to aid in their defense, which is another distinct feature.
Columnar Euphorbia thrive well indoors when planted in a cactus mix that drains quickly. Here are some tips for taking care of them at home:
Euphorbias are warm-blooded plants, therefore south or west-facing windows inside—where the plant receives four or more hours of direct sunlight daily—are ideal, though they can also grow in extremely intense indirect light. If placed within 18 inches of a window, they could burn because their skin is more sensitive than cactus. To avoid this, arrange them so that they are angled toward the window. Make sure the plant has adequate drainage and is kept as warm as you can if you are growing it in bright indirect light.
Since these plants grow throughout the summer, water should be progressively increased through late spring and into the season when they can experience dryness without becoming completely parched. This indicates that the soil does not feel damp or chalky or cracked throughout the entire container. During this time, don’t leave them to sit about completely dry; shriveling is a sign that they haven’t received enough water. Although fertilizer is typically not necessary, you can use an all-purpose fertilizer in the summer at 1/4 strength.
During the fall, water should be gradually reduced. Euphorbia naturally receive relatively little winter precipitation. They should become completely dry between waterings over the winter. Make sure to let your euphorbia stand in a saucer of water until it has completely absorbed the water because it can be difficult to rehydrate a completely dry plant (as it is like a dry sponge, where water will just run off). Until there is standing water in the saucer that isn’t being absorbed, keep adding water and letting the plant sucking it out. The surplus water can then be emptied out of the saucer or removed by placing a towel, sponge, or turkey baster within the saucer to absorb it. Never leave columnar euphorbia submerged for longer than 12 hours.
Brown spots are the most typical problem with these columnar euphorbia. They may be corking if they are light brown and hard like a scab, which is the normal process of a plant aging. Consider corking as a tree’s smooth, green bark turning woody over time. Relax, this is very normal.
However, rot is present if the brown spots are deeper and mushy. The plant needs to have the rot surgically removed since it will spread and kill it. The more likely it is that you can rescue your plant, the earlier you catch rot. Three situations are possible here:
Dig down to healthy, vigorous tissue to treat a small area of rot, then let the plant repair by developing a scab.
You must remove the top, clear the rot from the top and bottom back to healthy, lively tissue, and then re-root the top if it has ringed the column halfway up. Replant the top in extremely fast-draining soil (half pumice or lava rock and half cactus mix) and set it in a warm, sunny location out of direct sunlight after allowing it to scab over for two to three weeks. If you have it, rooting hormone is also helpful for this. For re-rooting, cement or tile flooring work well because they carry heat to the plant; but, if you have a heat mat, you can use that as well. Set it to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. In this case, the top of the plant will produce a new plant, and the bottom plant will continue to develop and produce new heads. (You would also propagate the plant in this manner, typically in the late spring when it is actively growing.)
If the column’s base begins to deteriorate and spiral around it, you should discard the bottom and propagate the top. You may recall that we mentioned the plant’s latex sap is poisonous. Use gloves and avoid getting sap in your eyes while doing this because it is a serious skin and eye irritant.
Other typical issues with euphorbia planted indoors typically result from the plants being grown in chilly environments with little sunlight. Summertime underwatering of plants causes problems, but even a small amount of wintertime overwatering can be disastrous. Another typical error is to not water until the soil is completely saturated.
Euphorbia leucodendron and Euphorbia tirucalli ‘Sticks on Fire’ (also known as pencil cactus), two non-columnar euphorbias with lovely forking shapes that resemble aquatic flora almost as much as possible, may both be grown indoors. These require a lot of light to develop as houseplants and can even grow in bright, direct sunlight beside a window, just like the columnar euphorbia. (Not a good option for houses with pets due to the previously mentioned toxic sap!)
These incredible plants may, of course, also be cultivated outside in a temperate region like the Bay Area, even flourishing in the foggy streets of San Francisco. These euphorbia prefer a warm, protected location with plenty of sunlight and good drainage. They enjoy being next to radiant south- or west-facing walls or fences as well as slopes where water can drain off. Since they are summer growers, they will require more water during this dry period. However, if you want to fertilize, use an all-purpose fertilizer sprayed at 1/4 strength as they are typically not hungry. They frequently fail in clay soil, partial sunlight, or areas that receive an excessive amount of winter precipitation (in addition to our natural rainfall). Clay soil can benefit from mounding.