What Do You Do With Hydrangeas In The Winter

One of the most adored Southern belles in the garden is the hydrangea. There are many reasons to enjoy shrubs; they tolerate shade, come in a range of colors, and can add interest all year long. In addition, hydrangeas typically require little maintenance and thrive in challenging growth environments.

Hydrangeas in Winter

Mulch over the hydrangeas in the winter to protect them. Leave faded blossoms alone to add interest in winter.

You may be wondering how to ensure that your shrubs remain secure over the winter due to the unpredictable nature of the weather. I am aware that I am in Georgia. So I asked Ryan McEnaney of Bailey Nurseries the most important winter care issues for hydrangeas, and fortunately, the answers are straightforward:

Is there a time or temperature when it’s “too late” to winterize hydrangeas?

Any form of protection is beneficial. Winter months bring a wide range of temperatures, so if you’ve already experienced any really chilly spells, some harm may have already been done. Despite this, continue to preserve it to ward off any potential threats in the months to come.

Will mulch prevent plants from heaving? Is there a type of mulch that is better for winterizing plants? When spring returns, do I need to remove the mulch?

Plants in the ground and in containers benefit greatly from mulch during the winter. Beyond providing general security, the mulch’s role is to establish an environment that is more consistent with what is going on outside. Temperatures can change from -10 to 30 degrees in some areas of the nation within a week or two. As a result, the root system is disrupted as water molecules in the ground freeze (contract) and then defrost (expand) (heaving). Mulch aids in minimizing those abrupt alterations to safeguard the plants. We advise using wood mulch, oak leaves, or pine straw.

To prevent damage from late spring, wait until after your last frost date to [remove to the mulch]. However, don’t wait too long as heat can develop moisture, which can cause the stems to rot in the absence of air flow.

Should I trim my hydrangea to prepare for winter?

If and when you prune is the key to happy, healthy hydrangea flowers. Of course, fertilizing and offering the ideal environment have a lot to recommend them. However, if you don’t prune properly, your efforts will be in vain. Deadheading is not the same as trimming. Pruning refers to more drastic cutting to preserve shape or remove dead growth. However, feel free to discard spent blossoms or cut fresh ones to use in arrangements.

Hydrangeas can bloom on either fresh wood or old wood, depending on the species. The wood from which they blossom determines whether and when to prune.

Old wood-blooming hydrangeas do not require pruning and benefit from it. They’ll blossom more abundantly the next season if you leave them alone. But feel free to deadhead or gently thin. Just keep in mind that while new growth may appear, it won’t bloom until the following season. In our region, four different species blossom on aged wood. Additionally, they are not limited to the hues displayed here.

Climb using suckers. On your wall or trellis, resist the desire to remove the dormant growth.

The flower heads are more conical in appearance, and the leaves are large and resemble oak leaves. It’s a pleasant surprise for a hydrangea when its leaves turn reddish-orange in the fall.

They are very comparable to lacecap types, but smaller and with more compact leaves.

Pruning should be done in late winter or early spring on hydrangeas that bloom on new wood. Trim back to two feet to prune to shape. The next season’s blossoms are produced by strong, fresh growth that is encouraged by trimming. In our region, there are two types that bloom on fresh wood. They are also not restricted to the colors displayed.

Oakleaf variants are not included in cone-shaped blooms. Keep the blooms on throughout the winter to provide interest; even dried out, they are quite lovely.

regarded as a wild kind. They often have smaller blooms and leaves than Bigleaf variants and are completely white. They enjoy full sun and can grow very tall.

Knowing whether or when to prune now will help you avoid the disappointment of a hydrangea that doesn’t blossom. Don’t forget that a robust shrub will produce more gorgeous blossoms if it has well-draining soil and good organic fertilizer. Come on in, and we’ll show you where to go to develop your green thumb.

How are hydrangeas prepared for the winter?

Protecting flower buds is the aim of winter hydrangea care. The simplest approach is to pile 12 inches or so of mulch made of chopped-up leaves or bark around the base of the plant. After the ground freezes in the late fall, set the mulch pile there. Plants can then be exposed in the spring, when the temperature starts to stay above freezing.

When ought hydrangeas to be pruned?

Depending on which group the plant belongs to, the timing and extent of pruning are determined:

Advice on Pruning for Group 1:

  • As the days get shorter and the weather gets colder in the late summer and fall, buds for the following year’s blooms start to form.
  • Typically, removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches is all that is required to preserve shape, size, and a healthy plant. Otherwise, gentle pruning ought to be practiced.
  • In the summer, trimming should begin as soon as flowering ends, but no later than August 1. Pruning should not be done in the fall, winter, or spring because you risk removing fresh buds.
  • Tip-pruning the branches in the spring as the leaves begin to appear can promote more numerous, smaller flower heads as opposed to fewer, larger flower heads.

Advice on Pruning for Group 2:

  • On the growth of the current year, flower buds form.
  • Early in the spring, as the leaves are starting to emerge, prune.
  • Just above a node, prune branches back by half to a third.
  • After that, prune any fragile or spindly branches.
  • Minimal trimming encourages huge, strong bushes with many of tiny flower heads in H. arborescens. Hard pruning between 12 and 18 inches from the ground, or even all the way down, will result in fewer but larger flower heads that may flop if unsupported.
  • For H. paniculata, remove the surrounding smaller wood while leaving the larger stems in order to establish a sturdy foundation.

Pruning may be connected to flower head size. Shoots will grow more vigorously and flower heads will be bigger and fewer with more rigorous trimming. Smaller but more numerous flower heads may result from less aggressive or tip pruning.

Consideration of hydrangeas’ mature size is the best piece of advise. Place them in a location where they won’t outgrow and won’t need a lot of pruning to keep them in check. Hydrangeas don’t need to be pruned precisely or often; as long as dead wood is removed, they will remain healthy and continue to develop and bloom.

Should the fall be the time to prune hydrangeas?

When do you prune? Only prune these hydrangeas in the summer after bloom, not in the fall. In August and September, old wood hydrangeas begin to form their bloom buds for the following year. It is advisable to delay pruning your hydrangeas until the following year if you don’t do it right away.

What are hydrangeas used for in the fall?

Maintaining your hydrangea can greatly impact its blooms the next year. When given enough time and the right care, hydrangeas are resilient and can recover from virtually anything.

See our comprehensive growth guide for hydrangeas here after reading the fall maintenance advice below!

Because some hydrangea kinds do not like to be clipped in the fall, it is crucial to first identify your variety.

If you have hydrangeas in your garden, you should be aware that there are two different varieties. Both types develop blossom buds, one on new wood and the other on old wood. If a stem has remained on the plant since the previous summer, it is referred to as old wood. Stems that form this season are considered new wood. The majority of hydrangea species that are found in gardens are old wood bloomers, including as Mophead, Big Leaf, Lacecap, and Oakleaf types. Check your variety once more at the neighborhood garden center.

Hydrangeas can grow for many years without being pruned, but it’s time to cut them if they become unkempt, take over a portion of the garden, or stop producing new growth. But when should they be pruned?

After the summer blooms on old wood bloomers or fall blooming hydrangeas, prune them. Old, woody hydrangeas that are pruned in the fall will not bloom the following season.

Hydrangeas that bloom in the summer or those that do so on fresh wood are clipped in the fall, after their flowering season has ended.

Early in the season, hydrangeas are brilliant and colorful, but they are difficult to preserve after being cut. Once they begin to dry on the bush, they are simpler to maintain.

Your plant will have weak, wispy growth near the bottom. Reduce them. They will consume energy that could be used by your plant to produce blossoms.

On your stems, look for any dead stumps. They won’t have sprung any buds or new wood from the original old wood. To totally remove the dead stumps, cut them to the ground at the base. This will give the new growth below a chance to flourish.

To make way for new buds to emerge, old and dead blossoms must be eliminated. To promote flowers for the following summer, remove the flower head immediately above the first few leaves.

Observe the plant’s shape from a distance. The shrub should be pruned into the shape you desire; a spherical is the traditional shape, but you can prune it however you like!

Clean up any leftover debris from the plant’s foundation. Make sure your soil is devoid of all weeds, dead flowers, and leaves.

Feed your blue hydrangeas with Holly-tone to maintain acidic soil and vibrant flowers. Alternatively, choose Flower-tone.

Feed your hydrangeas two to three times each week from spring till fall for the greatest results.

Your hydrangeas will remain healthy and vibrant for many years if you follow these simple instructions.

Should I remove the brown blooms on my hydrangea?

Myers advises leaving the dried blossoms on your hydrangeas if you’re looking for an easy way to spice up your winter yard. Bigleaf hydrangeas produce their final rush of flowers in the fall, so to enjoy the dried blossoms all winter long, stop deadheading at that time. To aid in the production of healthy buds in the spring, these can be removed.

Can hydrangeas be kept in pots?

Do hydrangeas thrive in containers? Given that potted hydrangeas received as gifts rarely survive longer than a few weeks, it’s a reasonable question. The good news is that they can, given the proper treatment. Growing hydrangeas in pots is a great idea because they can grow to be fairly large and have beautiful blossoms all summer long. Learn more about container-grown hydrangea plants and how to take care of hydrangea in pots by reading on.

How should a hydrangea be wrapped for winter?

If your hydrangeas are native to a cold area, the weather in late fall is ideal for them to harden off. You may also use this time to get them ready for the next winter.

Depending on the type of hydrangea you have and where it resides will determine exactly what you do. The good news is that your hydrangeas that bloom on old wood are the only ones you really need to be concerned about. Since August, the plants’ flower buds have been developing, and it is these that you need to guard.

In general, the flower buds of climbing and oakleaf hydrangeas are more resistant to winter damage than those of bigleaf plants. My zone 5 gardens’ oakleaf and climbing hydrangeas have blossomed extensively without any protection when my bigleaf hydrangeas have experienced winterkill.

All of this boils down to one plant species: bigleaf hydrangeas, which require your assistance (macrophylla). It’s the troublemaker, I call it.

Make an A-Frame for Protection

In some situations, snow can act as a shield, but when it is heavy and wet, it can also break and obliterate the stems. An A-frame to shunt off the snow is one option to think about in light of this. It still permits snow to accumulate at the plant’s base, which can act as a strong insulator. You may either buy one or construct an A-Frame like the one in the picture using a scrap pallet. Online, there are several DIY blueprints available.

By building a temporary windbreak of some kind, you can shield your plant. The delicate flower buds of the hydrangeamacrophylla are dried up by the chilly winter winds, which kill them.

Wrap Hydrangeas for Insulation

For insulation, many people wrap their plants. Making your plants believe they are in a warmer growing zone is the goal. Use a tomato cage or construct one out of burlap, chicken wire, and garden fleece and fill it loosely with leaves. To add even more insulation, you can bubble wrap the cage’s exterior. I’ve seen some constructions that have a Styrofoam cover that has been trimmed to fit the structure and attached to the top using wire or twist ties. Depending on how much defense you believe you require.

Some lovers use a sizable plastic leaf bag with a closed top, loosely filled with leaves, and no internal framework. However, keep in mind that any plastic has the capacity to trap moisture, and that heavy snowfall can topple the zipped bag and your plant.

When you wrap a plant, it’s crucial that the protection is properly removed in the spring. When there is no chance of a late-season frost, do it on a cloudy day. Keep in mind that the plant’s hibernation may have been broken beneath the leaves, so be cautious around the fragile buds. For a few days, you might need to give the plant artificial shade as it gets used to the bright sunlight.

Confession Time:

Time for a sincere admission: I no longer engage in any of this. I couldn’t handle all of this old-wood blooming angst. I gave away every single one of my old wood hydrangeamacrophyllas because I wanted to simplify my life. Newer, more bud-hardy hydrangeaserrata varieties and reblooming cultivars also entered the market. Voila! I still receive flowers even when old man winter gives me a terrible hand, albeit a little later than June. Additionally, I believe the more recent imports are gorgeous and superior plants in every way. You always have the option.