Perennial peonies called herbaceous peonies fade back to the ground every year. The plant stems push up in the spring while the roots remain dormant beneath the dirt. Woody, deciduous shrub peonies are called tree peony. They shed their foliage in the fall, but unlike herbaceous peony, their woody branches do not die back to the ground. Itoh peonies are a hybrid cross between herbaceous and tree peonies; while they do die down to the ground in the fall like herbaceous peonies, they exhibit tree peony-like growth and flowering traits.
Before they became beloved ornamentals, tree peony, which are native to China, were prized as a therapeutic plant. A tree peony can reach a height and width of up to five feet (1.5 meters) in around ten years and is a larger, woodier relative of the ordinary herbaceous peony. They are widely coveted for their huge, prodigious blooms, which can reach a diameter of up to 10 inches (25+ cm).
These blooms occur in single or double shapes and bloom from late spring to early summer. They are great cut flowers. Tree peony do not produce the sweet honeydew sap that herbaceous peonies do, which is what draws ants to their flower buds.
What distinguishes peonies from tree peonies?
Tree peony are actually small bushes, not trees, and they bloom in May and June with stunning goblet-shaped flowers. Tree peonies are higher and maintain a constant framework throughout the year, in contrast to herbaceous peonies, which die back every year.
How to grow tree peonies
In the fall, plant tree peonies in wet, well-drained soil in a location that receives some to all of the shade. Except for those that remain quite moist over the winter or are on the acidic side, most soils are good. When buying, plant them somewhat deeper than the soil level in their container.
Cut off any suckers that you notice at the base of your tree peonies because they are growing from the rootstock and will look different from the rest of the plant.
How can I tell a tree peony apart?
Do you have a tree peony that also blooms as a herbaceous peony, or a chimera peony, in your garden? Actually, the herbaceous peony understock, or rootstock, of the tree peony has emerged in this situation, which is not some uncommon mutation.
A “Souvenir du Maxime Cornu” tree peony that was grafted with herbaceous understock has sprouted and is in bloom in our garden. In this instance, the tree peony and the herbaceous understock are in full bloom at the same time.
Grafting is the most frequent method of producing new tree peony. In a nutshell, this is a technique for multiplying peonies in which a cutting from a tree peony is fused to the root of a herbaceous peony. In its early years of development, this serves as the tree peony’s “battery.” Last year, I described this procedure in detail.
Unhealed tree peony graft with a rubber band holding the tree peony scion to the herbaceous peony understock.
The roots of this tree peony are starting to spread on their own. The bulbous part of the root is the understock of the herbaceous plant. To ensure that the tree peony continues to spew its own roots, this plant must be planted quite deeply if it is to grow successfully.
A tree peony cannot develop its own roots if it is planted too shallowly. Both sprouted understock and general plant weakness may result from this.
It was improper to place this tree peony so close to the graft union. The tree peony won’t be able to develop its own roots in this situation. More earth should be piled around the plant in this situation.
If a tree peony has sprung herbaceous peony understock growing on it, the herbaceous peony will eventually overtake the tree peony and kill it out if the situation is not dealt to. To prevent this, the herbaceous rootstock must either be removed from the tree peony at the root in the fall or below the soil line in the spring. The plant that has to be preserved is the tree peony since it is more rare and valuable. Cutting back the herbaceous peony foliage BELOW the soil line and then piling up six inches of soil around the tree peony’s base is the simplest procedure. This can be done at any time and will prevent the herbaceous peony from sprouting again while promoting the development of the tree peony’s own roots.
Wait until the fall to plant the herbaceous peony if you really wish to save it and move it to another area of your garden. When it comes time to dig and divide peonies in a few months, I will write a follow-up piece that will show how to divide a tree peony’s herbaceous understock.
We talked about how to recognize the herbaceous peony understock emerging on a grafted tree peony a few months ago. This frequently happens when grafted tree peonies are planted too deeply. It’s time to dig up and remove undesired herbaceous understock and replant the tree peony now that the time for transplanting peonies has come. This must be done because, if not stopped, the herbaceous peony would eventually suffocate and suffocate the tree peony. You can replant this and let it grow out if you enjoy how the herbaceous understock blooms.
If you have a tree-herbaceous hybrid peony, now is the time to dig it up, remove the undesired herbaceous peony suckers, and replant the tree peony deeply enough for it to develop its own roots and survive for many more years.
The leaves of herbaceous peonies can easily be distinguished from those of tree peonies. While the leaves of herbaceous peonies are elliptical and pointed, those of tree peonies are dissected and three-pronged.
You can always look at the stems to determine whether the leaves are different. Herbaceous plants are green, while tree peonies are woody.
Digging up the peony requires first removing the leaves. In order to prevent them from spreading dangerous fungus throughout the garden, dispose of these in a hot compost pile or outside.
Digging up a huge peony cautiously is the best approach. Start by excavating around the plant’s perimeter, about 18 away from the drip line. Finally, gently pry the plant out of the ground after removing some of the soil from around its roots.
There are very few tree peony roots in this plant; most of its roots are herbaceous peony roots. The little white buds that have developed at the base of the herbaceous stems this year are the herbaceous peony’s “eyes.”
The tree peony would die or become weaker if all the herbaceous roots were removed right once because this plant has so few tree peony roots. Trim these pink or white buds to get rid of the herbaceous peony ‘eyes’ as soon as possible. The tree peony should be deeply replanted so that it can develop its own roots over the ensuing few years. Where the herbaceous peony roots first appear, or about 4 above the graft union, is where to plant the tree peony. Use this chance to add the right soil amendments for the tree peony. Shovel one or two shovelfuls of compost into the planting hole. If your soil is acidic, mix in a cup of limestone dust while you backfill. As you fill the hole, add a couple additional shovelfuls of compost and a cup of azomite to provide the plant with extra minerals.
Water the soil/compost mixture in as you back fill to help it settle nicely around the roots. If you still have some compost on hand, top dress the soil by tamping it down and adding a shovel’s worth. For their first winter in the ground, newly planted or replanted peonies should have mulch used to assist prevent the soil surrounding the roots from freezing and thawing abruptly, raising the roots above ground.
In our USDA zone 6, tree peony can be transplanted at any time between now and early November. Making sure that the roots do not dry out while they are out of the ground is crucial. Don’t forget to plant in an area that is sunny, well-drained, has rich soil, and has a pH of at least 6.5.
What kinds of peony grow on trees?
Learn about the Pleasures of Paeonia Suffruticosa Tree Peonies.
- Peony tree known as “Kamata Fuji,” Paeonia suffruticosa.
- Tree peony Paeonia suffruticosa ‘Asuka’
- Peony tree known as Paeonia suffruticosa “High Noon.”
How big can a tree peony grow?
No garden should be without the majestic, long-lasting woody shrubs known as tree peonies. Some types have plants that can produce fragrant flowers up to 10 inches in diameter and grow to heights of 45. Tree peonies are hardy from Zones 4 to 8, do well in the Northeast and Midwest, and flourish in climates with cold winters and hot summers. Tree peonies can be forced into dormancy by gardening in Zone 9: remove all foliage in November, leaving the woody stems, and do not water or fertilize. Hopefully, this will cause the plant to develop blossom buds.
Tree peonies may take three years to develop and begin blooming, so they are not a plant for the impatient gardener. Also keep in mind that it could take several seasons for a new plant’s flowers to bloom to their full potential. Having said that, there is nothing quite like a Tree Peony in full bloom; it is a breathtaking sight.
Before they blossom, Tree Peonies require some time to acclimate; it’s not uncommon for a plant to hold off until its third spring. Additionally, the first spring following planting, Tree Peonies may take longer to emerge from dormancy. Although your plant might appear to be dead while its neighbors are coming to life, it will soon reawaken.
Light/Watering: Flowers need some light protection from the sweltering afternoon sun. In China and Japan, little parasols are used to screen the plants from the sun. Plant tree peonies where they will be shielded from the winter and summer winds that can dry them out. Once established, Tree Peonies are exceptionally drought tolerant. Avoid overwatering plants, and keep them away from automatic irrigation systems. Prior to heavily watering, allow the soil to dry to a pH of 4. The roots will be killed by excessive watering, which is a common cause of failure.
Tree peonies require fertilized soil with a pH that is somewhat above neutral or close to neutral. When planting, add a few handfuls of lime if your soil is acidic. Remove the green plastic ribbon that is wrapped around the stem’s main portion before planting the plant at the depth specified by the ribbon. In order to stimulate the scion to develop its own roots if the ribbon has become dislodged, plant the top of the graft union, which is visible as a bulge on the main stem, approximately 46 below the soil’s surface. In the spring, topdress plants with an inch of aged manure or compost. During the growing season, foliar feeding with fish emulsion is beneficial.
Pests/diseases: On rare cases, you might discover a boring insect-caused hole in the wooden stem. Using a thin wire or by just cutting out the troublesome part, you might be able to kill the larva in the tunnel. Like Herbaceous Peonies, Tree Peonies may contract fungal infections that result in leaf blackening and wilting. As soon as unhealthy foliage is seen, it should be removed. In the fall, make sure to pick up any plant pieces that have fallen. Spray with a fungicide early in the spring and repeat the treatments for a few weeks if fungal diseases start to be an issue. Deadhead flowers regularly and avoid letting dropped petals get stuck in the plant or on the ground.
Companions for Tree Peonies are Hellebores, Alchemilla, Leucojum, Epimedium, and Siberian Irises. Underplant with bulbs that bloom in the spring if your plants have a tendency to be leggy.
Pruning: Unlike their herbaceous siblings, Tree Peonies should never be cut back to the ground. After plants have flowered, remove any broken or damaged stems by pruning. Once your plant has matured and is thriving, you might wish to make a small opening in the center to promote flowering on the taller stems and improve airflow. When Tree Peonies are grafted into Herbaceous Peony roots, the rootstock will occasionally send up a shoot from the plant’s base. These need to be taken out right away.
Dividing/Transplanting: Tree Peonies do not require division, and it is impossible to do it with numerous plants. When dormant, young plants can be transplanted; when digging the plant, try to keep as much soil around the roots as you can.
End-of-Season Care: After a deadly frost, remove all leaves, including leaf petioles, and dump it elsewhere, not in the compost pile. Mulched new plants should also have burlap or another material wrapped around them to block winter winds in the coldest climates.
Topdress plants with an inch of old manure or compost in the early spring. Keep an eye out for symptoms of a fungus infection and administer treatment as necessary. Remove any shoots that appear from the rootstock.
Mid-Spring: Due to their heavy blossoms, certain types may require assistance. To increase airflow, thin out any foliage that is too densely packed inside the plant.
Avoid overwatering in the late spring. Deadhead blooming promptly, and take out old flowers and petals from the garden.
In the summer, water plants only when the earth has dried to a depth of four inches. Fish emulsion feeding of the foliage is preferred.
Fall: Tree Peonies are woody shrubs; do not cut them back. After the first frost, remove all foliage; do not compost. Mulch newly planted vegetation and vegetation produced in colder climates, and if brisk winter winds are predicted, wrap vegetation in burlap or another windproof material.
Where should a tree peony be planted?
The majority of tree peony are hardy in zones 4–8, although some cultivars are hardy as low as zone 3. They thrive best in regions with hot summers and cold winters for dormancy. Tree peony prefer some dappled to light shade from the sweltering afternoon sun while being typically listed as full sun plants. The lovely blossoms may fade and wither more quickly if there is too much bright sunlight.
They require sufficient drainage and love slightly alkaline soil. Additionally, tree peonies favor a location free from competing tree or shrub roots. With perennial companion plants, they thrive.
Instead of in the sweltering summer, new tree peony plants should be planted in the spring or fall. At initially, they may take up to three years to become established and begin to develop and bloom. Tree peony do not transfer well and may tolerate drought once they are established. A plant can live up to 100 years if it is placed appropriately and is happy with its surroundings.
Gardening for tree peonies is not any more difficult than gardening for herbaceous peonies. However, tree peonies should never be pruned back in the fall, unlike herbaceous peonies. Tree peony should never be trimmed or shaped; only dead, unhealthy, or infected wood should be removed.
They may benefit from a yearly feeding of iron sulphate and bone meal in the spring since they have high iron and phosphate requirements. A general-purpose fertilizer like 5-10-5, which is higher in phosphorus than nitrogen and potassium, should also be applied regularly to tree peony.
The best way to water tree peony is directly at the root zone because they can be vulnerable to fungus illnesses. Borers can also harm them, so be vigilant about looking for evidence of their activity in the wood.