Throughout the summer, the enormous flower heads of hydrangea bushes (Hydrangea spp.) can cover a landscape with eye-catching flashes of blue, pink, or white. Most hydrangea cultivars, which are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9, can survive a moderate winter without particular care, but they benefit from careful watering, pruning, fertilizing, mulching, and weathering over the chilly season for their spring growth and beauty. Winter doesn’t cover their stems, and if they aren’t clipped, old flower heads will turn brown.
Tip
If not removed, the dried and blackened flower heads of hydrangeas will stay that way all winter long. In the fall, hydrangeas likewise lose their leaves, but the brown stalks hold upright unless they are cut back.
How can I tell if my hydrangea made it during the winter?
That mass of hydrangea sticks starts to produce new growth in the spring, either from the crown (or base) of the plant or from a cane. By about May, if you see no new growth at all, your plant may have suffered from “winter kill,” which was undoubtedly brought on by too-cold, freezing temperatures that were perhaps made worse by a drying wind.
The New York Botanical Garden’s Lorraine Ballato, a horticulture and educator, advises that you scratch some stems with your fingernail to be certain. A stem will show some green under the bark if it is alive. By the end of spring, if you can’t discover any living stems and no sprouts are emerging from the plant’s base, your hydrangea is dead. Remove the plant and try a more tolerant of the cold kind.
But keep in mind that the USDA hardiness zones measure a plant’s capacity for merely surviving, or whether its roots can endure the winter. According to Ballato’s essay for the National Garden Bureau, when it comes to hydrangeas, you also need to know if the stems can endure as many hydrangea kinds only bloom on wood that is a year old. What’s the sense of having a hydrangea if you can’t obtain blooms? To be sure, she advises asking a nearby nursery or extension office about the varieties of hydrangea that do well in your area.
How should a hydrangea tree be cared for over the winter?
One of the most adored Southern belles in the garden is the hydrangea. There are many reasons to enjoy shrubs; they tolerate shade, come in a range of colors, and can add interest all year long. In addition, hydrangeas typically require little maintenance and thrive in challenging growth environments.
Hydrangeas in Winter
Mulch over the hydrangeas in the winter to protect them. Leave faded blossoms alone to add interest in winter.
You may be wondering how to ensure that your shrubs remain secure over the winter due to the unpredictable nature of the weather. I am aware that I am in Georgia. So I asked Ryan McEnaney of Bailey Nurseries the most important winter care issues for hydrangeas, and fortunately, the answers are straightforward:
Is there a time or temperature when it’s “too late” to winterize hydrangeas?
Any form of protection is beneficial. Winter months bring a wide range of temperatures, so if you’ve already experienced any really chilly spells, some harm may have already been done. Despite this, continue to preserve it to ward off any potential threats in the months to come.
Will mulch prevent plants from heaving? Is there a type of mulch that is better for winterizing plants? When spring returns, do I need to remove the mulch?
Plants in the ground and in containers benefit greatly from mulch during the winter. Beyond providing general security, the mulch’s role is to establish an environment that is more consistent with what is going on outside. Temperatures can change from -10 to 30 degrees in some areas of the nation within a week or two. As a result, the root system is disrupted as water molecules in the ground freeze (contract) and then defrost (expand) (heaving). Mulch aids in minimizing those abrupt alterations to safeguard the plants. We advise using wood mulch, oak leaves, or pine straw.
To prevent damage from late spring, wait until after your last frost date to [remove to the mulch]. However, don’t wait too long as heat can develop moisture, which can cause the stems to rot in the absence of air flow.
Are hydrangeas winter-hardy?
Here is professional guidance on how to put hydrangeas to bed for the winter season from guest bloggers Megan Nichols and Jessie Jacobson of Tonkadale Greenhouse in Minnetonka, Minnesota. (They may have more hydrangea trees and shrubs in their zip code than almost anywhere else in the United States, so they are aware!)
The temperature has dropped, and autumnal symbols can be seen everywhere. The garden needs to be put to bed soon. Hydrangeas reward us with large, stunning, and prodigious blooms all season long. You may say that they are givers. It’s time to return the favor now. It’s time to tuck the hydrangeas in with kisses and wishes for sweaty dreams.
Here in Minnesota, our moods can fluctuate as drastically as the unpredictably harsh winter weather extremes, snowfall, and freeze/thaw cycles. Despite the fact that many hydrangeas are regarded as hardy, all of this can confuse them. To survive the winter and come back bigger and better the next year, they require some care. Although hydrangeas cultivated in warmer areas don’t need as much post-season primping as those grown in our zone, there isn’t a single thing that wouldn’t appreciate a little tender loving care right now.
Utilize these suggestions to get the most out of your hydrangeas so that you can be the one to present at this time next season!
(Is pruning in order? Yes and no. Here is our recommendation for which hydrangeas should be pruned right away and which should wait until spring.)
Don’t Stop Watering
Make a commitment! I shall water my hydrangeas till the earth freezes solid, you declare while raising your right hand. really good Hydrangeas are thirsty plants by nature, so it’s essential to give them regular, deep watering. We don’t need to get all linguistically nerdy right now, but their name literally means “hydration.” Winter’s cool, dry winds completely drain the moisture from the vegetation, and hydrangeas don’t use lip balm. It need not be heated in order to be dry!
If a freeze is not a concern where you live, water deeply but sparingly during the winter depending on how much rain you get.
This is how: Making a small hole in the side of a 5-gallon bucket, filling it with water, and placing it at the base of the plant while it slowly drips out of the bucket is one method. Another option is to lay your hose at the base of the plant for about an hour with the water turned on to a gentle drip.
Give Them One Last Hearty Meal
Composting your hydrangea beds in the fall will give them a boost for the upcoming growing season. Everyone feels better after a full night’s sleep and a filling breakfast. This also applies to hydrangeas. After a lengthy winter’s hibernation, they will be ravenous for some nice compost. Compost can decompose during the winter if it is used now, making nutrients easily accessible in spring. A few inches of compost is advisable even in regions without a deep cold. Only compost is being discussed here! Don’t give your hydrangeas fertilizers that are high in nitrogen because this can encourage them to produce new foliage growth.
This is how: Before laying down mulch in colder climates, top dress the area with compost, well-aged manure, or other organic material after the ground has frozen. This organic fertilizer, which is rich in nutrients, will decompose over the winter, making nutrients available to the plant in the spring. Apply compost in the late fall or early winter in zones that are warmer.
Mulch Matters
Mulching helps keep moisture in and weeds out in warmer climates while shielding the crown and roots of your hydrangeas from harsh winter temperatures in colder climates. Snow serves as a natural insulator if everything goes as it should. Plants suffer during strange winters with little snowfall and extreme temperature changes. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the plant’s base to offer hydrangeas the best chance of flourishing. While decorative mulch is useful, straw, marsh hay, or dead leaves are suggested instead.
This is how: Apply a 6–8 layer of mulch once the ground has frozen (or late fall or early winter in zones with milder winters). This shields plants from the heave-ho of springtime freeze/thaw cycles, which can yank them out of the ground. Inviting mice to make this their snug winter home, causing rotting and illness, or tricking the plant into believing it’s time to bud, are all consequences of mulching too early. Be patient; you don’t have to do things early simply because your neighbors are.
Keep Them Cozy
The amount of winter cold determines whether or not hydrangeas require protection. Winter protection is not required in zone 7 if the air temperature stays above zero degrees. Wrap or totally cover barely hardy hydrangeas in chilly areas. This is crucial for plants that bloom on old wood, such hydrangeas with mop heads and large leaves (Hydrangea macrophylla). The most recent types of mop head/big leaf hydrangeas, however, bloom on both fresh and old wood, so it’s important to keep that in mind. In their favor and ours! Hardier hydrangea varieties like the paniculata and arborescens don’t often require additional winter care, although really low temperatures might cause its limbs to die back. Consider covering if a colder than usual winter is forecast.
This is how: Wrap plants loosely in a few layers of burlap, making sure to tie it off with strong twine. Making a mulch mountain and covering the majority of the plant is an additional choice. Smaller, newly planted specimens respond well to this technique.
There’s Still Time To Plant!
The first three varieties of hydrangeas can be grown here in Zone 4; oak leaf hydrangeas can also be grown in warmer climates (zones 5 to 9). The optimal time to plant shrubs is in the fall. Just make sure to do all of the aforementioned things, including watering and mulching.
Here are some of our favorites that you can plant now for stunning blooms the following spring.
Panicle Hydrangeas
These late blooming hydrangeas, sometimes known as PeeGee hydrangeas (summer into early fall). They are covered in elongated, conical flower heads that emerge white or green and blush into pinks and peaches as the season goes on.
How do hydrangeas fare over the winter?
The ideal places for potted hydrangeas to overwinter are garages or basements, where the temperature stays cool without freezing. The plants will go dormant, but until spring you’ll need to water the pots on occasion—roughly once a month—to keep the roots moist.
Cut back these shrubs in late winter before new growth begins
Shrubs that flower on young wood typically start blooming later than old-growth bloomers, beginning in June and continuing until the first frost, because they need to grow and set buds the same year that they bloom. As long as you avoid trimming when the flower buds are opening, these shrubs are understanding if it is not done at a specific period.
1. Trim the flowers all the way back for larger blooms.
These bushes can be completely removed from the ground in late winter or the beginning of spring. If cut severely like this every year, smooth hydrangeas will produce much larger flowers, but many gardeners prefer smaller blooms on stronger stems.
2. Maintain an old growth foundation to lessen flopping
Especially after watering from above or after a heavy storm, the branches of some hydrangeas frequently topple over from the weight of their blooms. Cutting the stems to a height of 18 to 24 inches will help to reduce this flopping by creating a strong framework for fresh growth.
Janet Carson is the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service’s horticulture specialist.
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How is a hydrangea tree cared for?
Hydrangeas in bloom are a surefire indicator of summer. Nothing compares to the stunning sight of hydrangeas in bloom in a range of colors. Every summer garden looks beautiful with the white, blue, pink, or purple blooms coupled with the vibrant green foliage.
How wonderful would it be to see hydrangeas on trees instead of the usual low-growing hydrangea bushes? The good news is that you can. How to grow a hydrangea tree is described here.
Instead of large spherical blossoms, the Grandiflora variety of Hydrangea paniculata develops white conical flowers. It has the potential to reach a height of 25 feet with moderate pruning and good maintenance! Your greatest option for cultivating a hydrangea tree is Grandiflora, also referred to as Pee Gee Hydrangea by gardeners.
Prepare yourself for success before you plant. The USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 8a are ideal for hydrangea tree growth, so check your zone. Make careful to pick a location with consistent bright light because hydrangeas enjoy full sun for the majority of the day and a little afternoon shade.
Typically, hydrangeas prefer rich, permeable, moist soil. To promote healthy growth, aerate the soil with Espoma’s All-Purpose Garden Soil and apply Espoma’s Bio-tone Starter Plus. If you’re planting numerous trees, make sure to thoroughly water them and give each hydrangea a minimum distance of 3 to 10 feet.
Pruning is one of the most crucial aspects of hydrangea tree growth. The training, pruning, and correct maintenance are what distinguish a hydrangea shrub from a tree. Springtime is the best time to prune. Remove old twigs that failed to develop wholesome growths and suckers from the tree’s trunk. Trim branches so they have two or three nodes each to keep your tree looking tidy (small bumps on the branch that signify growth).
Although it requires a lot of sunlight, your hydrangea tree will offer some shade on particularly sweltering summer days. Keep the soil moist to prevent drooping leaves and blossoms because greater sunlight requires more water. Before the height of the growing season in the spring, prune your hydrangea tree.
Growing a hydrangea tree sounds like the next step for you if you love your hydrangeas and want to see more than a standard shrub!