Tulip and crocus bulbs are very different in size, but they can both be planted in the same bed. During the early spring, while the tulips are still waking up, these tiny blossoms will bloom. They resemble a sneak peek of the tulip flowers to come. To give the flower bed a tiered appearance, certain spring Crocus types that bloom later will blossom concurrently with the tulips.
Which plant complements tulips?
A reader has the following inquiry:
Any recommendations for perennials that may be planted alongside spring bulbs this fall and that will appear after the tulips and daffodils bloom, cover their leaves, and then gradually turn yellow? Along the wall of my carport, in a south-facing area with plenty of sun and sufficient drainage.
Last year, I discussed Claudia Kolbe-method Hawthorne’s for creating waves of color in her garden beds in the Cheektowaga neighborhood of Cleve-Hill. Hyacinths, daffodils, and a profusion of vibrant tulips are among her blooms.
Around the bulbs, she plants perennials like columbine, dianthus, coneflowers, coreopsis, and sedum so that those plants can conceal the withering leaves. Visit this location to take a tour of her spring garden.
Do you have any other recommendations for perennial plants to place around your spring bulbs? If so, kindly comment below for Val.
So when someone asks me a question that I am unable to answer, I post it and rely on my viewers to contribute their knowledge. Please leave a remark below if you have any suggestions for Val. Check back later to read the comments if you’re interested in learning the solution to this query.
Asking Master Gardeners with Cornell Cooperative Extension or visiting your neighborhood garden center are more effective ways to have your questions answered.
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Is it possible to grow flowers above tulip bulbs?
Is it possible to grow another flower on top of my dormant tulips? The front of my house’s garden has some unsightly gaps in it. Thanks,
Thanita from Ashburn, Virginia
Mike: The reasons we Americans (as opposed to those in Holland) have trouble getting our spring bulbs to bloom year after year are, according to what I overheard you mention last spring:
- We drastically over-earnest the green, nourishing portion of the bulb and
- If we grow annual flowers on top of our bulbs, they receive an excessive amount of watering and fertilizing.
Your recommendation was to dig up the bulbs once the greenery had withered back and layer them in a pot, according to kind, with alternating layers of peat and vermiculite to keep the layers apart. You suggested, I believe, that they should still be watered, just not more frequently than a typical rainfall schedule would allow. So I took action. However, when I went looking for confirmation on the Internet, the data I discovered suggested that it would just cause the bulbs to rot and serve as a buffet for neighborhood field mice and/or squirrels (and deer if they found the container). I gave the collection one “watering”; after that, they only received rain. How did I do?
Hockessin, Delaware’s Tina
A. Tina, you mainly got it correct. Your biggest mis-hearing was the irrigation portion. I HOPE I mentioned to only let the rain hit the container they are in and NOT to add ANY water.
However, let’s go back to the beginning. One of the best interview guests we’ve ever had on the program, British gardening writer Anna Pavord, gave us this piece of advise while she was on tour in 2000 in support of her stunning book “The Tulip,” which was published in 1999. I remarked during the interview that one of our most frequent inquiries was over the reliability of tulip returns. That’s because you Americans plant annual flowers on top of the bulbs and then water and Miracle-Grow the crap out of them, rotting the poor bulbs underground, she immediately said.
She explained that Spring bulbs have evolved to live in their native mountains of Russia, Turkey, and Afghanistan in a harsh and largely God-forsaken environment. The bulbs that have been hiding put up their shoots, flower, and absorb a lot of solar energy when heavy snow and freezing cold eventually give way to a rather comfortable Spring. After that, the above-ground growth fades away, and the bulbs hide once more, this time from a dry, sweltering summer.
Therefore, according to Pavord, their DNA does not understand the moisture and food of summer; instead, it understands scorching, dry, and desolate. They don’t respond well to beds that are watered and nourished throughout the summer to keep marigolds, begonias, or petunias alive for that reason.
She continued by saying that because she, too, had a small garden and didn’t want to leave her bulb beds vacant for the summer, she had to learn this lesson the hard way. She began lifting the bulbs, preserving them for the summer, and replanting them in the fall as soon as she realized what was happening. She assured me and my audience that it functioned admirably and had a good deal of room for mistake.
It worked the first time I attempted it that summer and every summer after. I never repeated it exactly the same manner. The first year, when the greens on the bulbs had faded, I pulled them out and moved them to the back of the garden, out of sight and away from the sprinkler. I hammered together a bottomless box out of scrap wood, filled it halfway with soil, then added a layer of one type of bulb, more soil, more bulbs, etc., until it was completely full. Only when it rained did it get irrigated. And I covered it with a tarp when we experienced protracted rainy spells. I removed them in the middle of October, planted them again around Halloween, and had fantastic results.
After a few years, the box completely rotted away, so I transferred to large pots that were initially just plain ugly and had never gotten any prettier. This also functions well. If I have it, I will occasionally add a considerable amount of peat, vermiculite, perlite, or a fine, light professional potting soil blend; if not, I will simply use my compost-enriched garden soil. I’ve never lost more than a few items to rot due to mice or squirrels invading, either (and they were probably already damaged by my tender digging-up style, which involves a lot of creative swearing). Although I adore the picture of Bambi digging through several inches of soil in search of hidden riches, I don’t believe that even deer are that stupid.
Here is how I intend to make my Spring bulbs bloom again:
- Remove the faded blooms and any developing seedpods when they have finished blooming.
- Feed the plants so they will grow new flowers for you the following year. There are numerous feeding instructions in our earlier Spring bulb Question of the Week.
- Wait until the greens have totally lost their green hue before touching them.
- Remove the bulbs. The ideal method is to slowly coax the bulb out of the ground after it goes tan or brown while gently pulling on the faded greens. Go digging if it breaks off, but exercise caution.
- The degreened bulbs should be kept outside in a container with excellent drainage, either in the sun or the shade, in soil, soilless mix, or a mixture of both. Do not water them, and if it is raining a lot, cover the container.
- In the autumn, replant. In the far north, that would be September; in the mid-Atlantic, October; and in warm climates, after Thanksgiving.
Can something be grown over tulips?
When mixing perennials with tulips, take into account some perennials that, even though they might not bloom at the same time as the tulips, will conceal the tulips’ withering and discolored foliage after they have completed flowering. An illustration would be daylilies.
Around tulips that are just beginning to emerge from the ground, plant annuals. In the spring, tulips advance fast to the blossoming stage, especially in warm weather. The annual flowers will be prepared for the opening of the tulip blossoms if they are already in bloom.
Can veggies be grown on top of tulip bulbs?
Vegetable gardens are more attractive and enjoyable when they also contain flowers. I’ve discovered that dahlias and tulips go well with vegetables. Continue reading to find out how you may grow tomatoes, salad greens, and other food crops while also enjoying a feast of blooms from spring through fall when you combine flower bulbs with veggies.
Kick Off the Gardening Season with Tulips
Up until the middle or end of May, the majority of vegetable plots are barren. Why not make use of some of that space and add tulip bulbs to your spring landscaping?
Similar to how veggies prefer to grow, tulips too prefer healthy, well-drained soil and abundant sun. You’ll be astonished at how much better these bulbs perform in a vegetable garden if you’ve already planted them elsewhere in your yard. Tulips grow larger and more robustly, and the blossoms stay longer when they are treated like kings.
Tulips are simple to plant liberally in groupings of 25, 50, or 100 bulbs in a vegetable garden. This is the ideal technique to arrange tulips. Finally, there will be enough stems for cutting into indoor bouquets.
There is no need to consider balancing colors, heights, and bloom dates when deciding which tulip kinds to plant. Enjoy cultivating a wide variety of plants by letting your imagination run wild. Block the bulbs and group them according to variety. Choose to arrange the colored blocks in the garden in one long row or to scatter them throughout the area as space permits.
A ready-made vegetable garden bed makes it simple to plant bulbs. Simply remove a portion of the row, insert the bulbs, and cover them. (Detailed instructions can be found HERE.) There is no need to rush while planting in the late fall. Actually, November is the ideal month to grow tulips. The remainder of your summer crops will have been gathered by then, and there will be plenty of space for bulbs.
Even before it’s time to plant peas, the tulips will be up and getting ready to bloom in the early spring. A variety of early, mid, and late season cultivars would ensure that flowers would blossom for weeks before warm weather crops could be planted. Simply dig out the plants (bulb and all) to make room for your crops when the flowers fade. Start the procedure over with a new batch of bulbs when fall arrives.
Because the bulbs rarely dependably bloom for longer than one year in most climes, tulips are often grown as annuals. Can’t stand the thought of throwing them away? Plant a crop with shallow roots, such as lettuce or spinach, over the bulbs once the foliage has had time to ripen. The bulbs could also be dug out and planted elsewhere. Discover which spring-blooming bulbs are dependable perennials HERE.
Add Dahlias for Flowers in Summer and Fall
Tomatoes and dahlias make a wonderful combination. The plants are around the same size and require a comparable amount of maintenance, including routine watering, fertilizing, and periodic pruning and tying. It is also compatible to harvest. You might choose a flower for the table while you are out choosing vegetables for dinner.
Dahlias should be planted in the spring, at the same time as other frost-sensitive plants like tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. You can plant border dahlias in your herb garden, dinnerplate dahlias between your tomato plants, and beautiful dahlias between your pepper plants.
All varieties of dahlias will thrive in a food garden, but those with only one blossom have something extra: bees! Bees can’t resist the pollen-rich cores of these daisy-like dahlias. For fruiting plants like tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, squash, and cucumbers, better pollination and higher yields can be achieved by luring more bees to your food garden.
Vegetable plants develop more slowly as autumn draws near. Fruit production decreases, and vegetable gardens typically begin to appear neglected. On the other hand, the optimum time to enjoy dahlias is in the early fall. They grow rapidly throughout the hottest part of the summer and then increase their flowering as the nights get cooler. When you can still select large bouquets of dahlias, the melancholy days of autumn are a little sweeter.
Growing flower bulbs with veggies allows you to enjoy both fresh, delicious food and lovely blooms. Do you eat vegetables and flower bulbs together? Tell us about your favorites in a comment!
Which greenery complements tulips?
The forget-me-not, Myosotis sylvatica, transforms into a carpet of vivid green leaves as spring progresses, capped with clouds of tiny, deep blue blooms. The long-lasting forget-me-nots add interest after the tulips have faded and create a lovely soft backdrop for tulips of all colors. Tulip “China Pink” is grown beside them here.
Box
The box, Buxus sempervirens, gives the planting plan a modern appearance by adding a contrasting shape and structure. These clipped box balls have been interplanted with bleeding heart, leathery-leaved Hosta sieboldiana, deep red tulip “Pretty Woman,” and pale pink aquilegia. The formality of the tulips and the neatly manicured box is emphasized by the luxuriant foliage of the softer plants and the delicate, nodding blossoms.
Red hebe
These tulips appear among a group of low-growing red-leaved hebe with lollipop stems topped with beautiful red blooms. Hebe is a perfect match because it needs the same amount of sunlight and well-drained soil as tulips do. It also provides a shrubby backdrop that highlights the tulips’ color and form.
Bronze fennel
The bronze fennel, Foeniculum vulgare ‘Purpureum,’ has delicate, finely divided leaves that works well with a variety of hues. It here creates a nice contrast with the tulip “Queen of Night,” giving the arrangement a more relaxed feel. Florence fennel is as effective in decorative borders and has the extra benefit of luring insects and birds.
Honesty
Honesty, Lunaria annua, complements the sophisticated deep purple tulip “Queen of the Night” nicely. Honesty is a lovely biennial with white or purple flowers. It looks good in contrast to the strong, formal tulips when let to naturally grow in a border. The characteristic translucent seed heads of honesty, which are used in dried flower arrangements, are another reason why it is produced.
Bluebells
Our native bluebell, Hyacinthoides non-scripta, pairs beautifully with tulips thanks to its characteristic blue blossoms that bloom in profusion throughout April and May. It develops in the front as tulips, such as “Irene,” “West Point,” and “Ronaldo,” emerge from low-lying foliage in the background. For a meadow-like show, intersperse huge bluebell clumps with tulips.
Wallflowers
Tulips can bloom before trees go into leaf in places of dappled shadow. Tulip varieties like “West Point” and “White Triumphator” that are yellow and white can be used to highlight the edge of a woodland design. Combine them with a variety of foliage and spring flowers. To fill in the gaps, combine wallflower varieties like “Sunset Primrose” or “Sunset Apricot” with new, fresh ferns.
Tiarella
It’s worthwhile to experiment with various planting arrangements in pots. Pink tulips, pink bluebells, and tiarella are planted together in this arrangement in a nod to the plants that might naturally coexist at the border of a woodland glade. The display is softened and contrasted by the tiarella’s fluffy flowerheads and lobed leaves, which also cover up the tulips’ naked stems and sparse foliage.
Select plants that can survive in the same soil conditions as tulips: full light and good drainage. Also take into account when they bloom; ideally, aim for a progression of color or leaf interest