Typically, bugs do not cause much harm to hydrangeas. Making ensuring your hydrangeas are as healthy as possible will help you avoid damage. Give them the right amount of water to avoid stress, and that should be your top priority. This will increase Hydrangeas’ ability to survive mild pest damage without having an adverse effect on growth or attractiveness.
Encourage natural predators like ladybugs to live in your yard to naturally keep damaging insects like aphids and mites away from your hydrangeas. Ladybugs are helpful insects because they don’t harm your plants but eat other garden pests instead of bothering your plants.
If you want to attract ladybugs, plant flowers like cosmos, calendula, and marigolds. You can also make a ladybug shelter out of a tiny box packed with bamboo canes to provide the insects a spot to hide out close by. This natural predator may be more successful than an insecticide at keeping your Hydrangeas free of dangerous pests because one ladybug may consume up to 5,000 aphids.
However, even if you make a setting intended to lessen dangerous bugs, you can still experience certain problems because of circumstances outside your control. You can take action to get rid of the offenders if you discover that pests are picking on your hydrangeas.
Japanese beetles, leaf tiers, rose chafers, spider mites, aphids, and scale are the pests that attack hydrangeas the most frequently.
Japanese insects
These insects have copper wing covers and a head that is metallic green. They are roughly 1/3 to 1/2 inch long. Because they feed on foliage, these beetles primarily cause cosmetic damage, but the result can make hydrangeas appear less appealing. Neem oil or a pesticide can be used to treat the problem. You can also manually remove the plant pests and drop them into a basin of soap.
Bugs that feed on roses
These bugs are tan or pale green and smaller than Japanese beetles. When flying, rose chafers resemble wasps. They consume the leaves’ veins, turning them into skeleton-like structures. Use neem oil or insecticide to get rid of rose chafers, or you can hand-pick the insects off of the bushes and drop them into a pail of soapy water.
Leaf stacks
Small green caterpillars called leaf tiers “knot leaves together to build a pouch to protect themselves from predators.” The hydrangeas’ flower buds are harmed by leaf tiers, which might lead to fewer blooms. The only practical way to get rid of these caterpillars is by hand removal because insecticides are ineffective on them because they are camouflaged inside the leaves. Before disposing of the caterpillar or fused leaves in the trash or compost, trim off any damaged leaves. Do this as quickly as you can to protect the flower buds from further harm.
Spider mitesSpider mites are so tiny that you probably won’t ever see them, yet their impacts will be felt. If the infestation worsens, you may see a pattern of dots on the leaves of your hydrangeas, and eventually, the leaves will become yellow or bronze.
Due to their preference for warm, dry surroundings, spider mites can be avoided by keeping your hydrangeas well-watered. Although Hydrangea leaves shouldn’t ordinarily be damp, if you see spider mites, consider misting Hydrangeas with water. This occasionally causes the mites to fall off the plant. To rescue your hydrangeas if this doesn’t work, try a pesticide.
AphidsAphids are a little, green insect that seem to be drawn to all plants. Fortunately, they are simple to manage. They frequently drink the sap off the stems and leaves of hydrangeas, which can cause fungal problems. Spray your Hydrangeas with a water hose when you see aphids to get rid of them. Apply a pesticide if the aphids come back.
ScaleThese insects resemble little shells more than actual bugs. Pruning infected sections of your hydrangeas will get rid of the scale. If there are only a few insects, you can manually remove them or treat each one with neem oil with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. You may need to use an insecticide if the infestation is advanced.
One Word of Caution
When using insecticides to control pests, keep in mind that many of them kill all insects, whether they are bothersome or not. This means that by using a pesticide, you run the risk of eliminating pest-controlling beneficial insects like ladybugs. Before applying chemical insecticides to hydrangeas, try natural alternatives.
How can bugs on hydrangeas be removed?
Depending on the bug, there are different ways to get rid of hydrangea pests. Sometimes you can use a water hose to spray off aphids, and if that doesn’t work, you can use insecticidal soap. It is not advised to use alternative insecticides to treat aphids because they may also harm pollinators like bees and helpful insects that control pests. It is occasionally possible to inhibit the growth of black vine weevil larvae by drenching the soil with a particular kind of roundworm nematode. Nematodes can survive in the soil for up to three months, according to the Missouri Botanical Garden, but only in conditions when the temperature is over 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Japanese beetles can be manually exterminated if they are present in modest quantities. The best time to do this, according to the Missouri Botanical Garden, is about 7 a.m. when the beetles are less busy and simpler to catch. To kill the beetles, submerge them in soapy water. Although there are pheromone traps for Japanese beetles, the Missouri Botanical Garden does not advise using them because they frequently end up drawing in more insects.
Do hydrangeas entice wasps or bees?
The nectar and pollen-rich flowers of hydrangeas draw a variety of bee, fly, and wasp species as well as other flying pollinators. They don’t draw houseflies, hornets, yellowjackets, or the majority of predatory wasps because these insects are generally carnivores that eat carrion or trash and rarely consume nectar or pollen.
One of the main reasons that flowering plants exist and why most flowers are as beautiful as they are is because they attract pollinators. The color, form, and shape of a flower are created by nature to draw the type of animal she wants to help with fertilization. If you don’t want the pollinators, you must get rid of the plants, or at the very least, the flowers, or move them to an area where they won’t bother you.
Are hydrangeas an ant magnet?
A forceful burst of water from the hose can be used to spray your plants to get rid of aphids, which are mostly a problem on new growth. (Take care not to hurt the actual hydrangea.) Try an insecticidal soap or spray if they come back. Are your pests aphids, but you’re not sure? If you notice ants on your hydrangea leaves, there are likely little, green aphids nearby. They enjoy eating the sticky material called honeydew that ants make.
Will hydrangeas be harmed by soapy water?
Hydrangea Slug Treatment Spray some soapy water on the plants. Use a spray bottle with a quart of water and a teaspoon of dawn or Joy dish soap. The plant’s ground, branches, and leaves should all be sprayed. That ought to discourage them from returning.
Are ticks attracted to hydrangeas?
Because they don’t tend to draw many pests or animals, hydrangeas are a suitable option for many landscapes. While certain insects and animals will consume hydrangeas if they come across them, most creatures avoid them.
Bees are not drawn to mophead hydrangeas. The most alluring varieties of hydrangeas for bees are laccap and oakleaf varieties.
Other insects can occasionally cause problems for hydrangeas, including Japanese beetles, rose chafers, leaf-tiers, aphids, scale, and mites. The majority of pests only cause aesthetic harm and may be prevented from becoming an infestation by using natural controls. To spot issues early, regularly inspect your hydrangeas.
In terms of fauna, hydrangeas are neither particularly attractive to, nor resistant to, deer, rabbits, and groundhogs. If you see indications that one of these species is bothering your hydrangeas, take precautions to protect them and keep them from returning in the future.
Ideally, you won’t have many issues with pests and critters affecting your hydrangeas, but in the event that you do, you now know how to handle them.
Are hydrangeas a mosquito magnet?
The magnificent blossoms of hydrangeas make them a popular choice for lawns and gardens. However, some gardeners worry that their sizable hydrangea shrubs might be attracting mosquitoes to the yard.
No proof exists that hydrangeas draw mosquitoes. However, mosquitoes are drawn to areas with lots of vegetation and standing water. Although hydrangeas themselves are not an attractant, the high moisture requirements of hydrangeas allow for the creation of mosquito-friendly environments.
Let’s examine what attracts mosquitoes in more detail, which insects hydrangeas attract, and how to reduce the amount of mosquitoes in your yard.
Check out the DynaTrap Mosquito & Flying Insect Trap, which protects up to half an acre and kills mosquitoes, flies, wasps, gnats, and other flying insects (link to Amazon).
Do hydrangeas attract insects?
I’m aware that some lace caps feed the bees, but not all specimens do, as some have flatter heads than the “mop heads” kind.
However, on the Lacecap Hydrangea macrophylla Blue Wave in this image, I have observed several bees foraging. I intend to add more cultivars to this page in the future.
Which hydrangea varieties should you avoid?
Some hydrangeas are better left out of the garden if you are concerned that your planting decisions may benefit bees and other pollinators.
Since the flowers are infertile and provide no food to bees, French hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophyllahortensis) often do not help pollinating insects.
These are the types with ball-shaped blossom heads, a compact circular “mop-head,” and no discernible flower anthers.
According to my personal experience, the unskilled foragers at most land, take a rapid flight away, or rest without eating.
Though even some of the kinds with “looser flower heads” are not particularly helpful to pollinators, it is advisable to concentrate on those that are popular with bees.
Do butterflies and bees enjoy hydrangeas?
The aesthetic appeal of a garden is no longer sufficient. It must also be visually appealing. The local ecosystem’s food chains are more successfully maintained the more we accept insects. In particular, we help our own food supply when we care for pollinators.
Get rid of the pesticides first. Put your faith in nature to regulate pests. Then add the features that make gardens beautiful: a succession of nectar- and pollen-rich blooms from the last to the first frost, as well as plants that serve as hosts for caterpillars of moths and butterflies.
Most pollinators are not particularly choosy. Some pollinators, like honeybees, only work with one species at a time, which makes them effective pollinators of food crops. Others eat from the buffet’s entire selection. Even though many pollinator species are armed with stingers, when they’re out feeding in the garden, they’re friendly associates willing to cooperate with you and each other.
Spring is simple. Everything that grows is essentially fair game. Beekeepers highly respect dandelions as the first dependable food supply following a long winter. Make room for them in your grass. The same is true for clover, which was only recognized as a weed after being unintentionally targeted by weed killers.
All kinds of bees, wasps, moths, and butterflies are drawn to the following things:
- Ajuga (Ajuga and cvs., Zones 39)
- Catmint (Nepeta and cvs., Zones 38)
- Hyssop anise (Agastache foeniculum, Zones 411)
- Lavender (Lavandula and cvs., Zones 410)
- Mountain thyme (Pycnanthemum and cvs., Zones 48)
- Calamint (Calamintha nepeta subsp. nepeta, Zones 49)
- Plants of the Lamiaceae (mint family) are effective pollinator magnets.
These plants have tubular flower spires that bloom all summer, attracting hummingbirds and bumblebees alike:
- Honey balm (Monarda and cvs., Zones 49)
- Agastache, such as Mexican giant hyssop (Agastache and cvs., Zones 411) (Agastache mexicana, Zones 710)
- Salvia species, including blue anise sage (Salvia and cvs., Zones 511). (Salvia guaranitica, Zones 710).
There is a secret weapon that hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp. and cvs., Zones 49) use. They only provide pollen and nectar from considerably smaller viable florets, yet they attract pollinators with enormous, showy flowers. Some mophead cultivars, like “Nikko Blue,” are just for appearance. Because lacecaps (H. macrophylla normalis, Zones 59) feature a platform of pollen-rich fertile blooms surrounded by prettier sterile sepals, bees and butterflies will appreciate your choice. Also take into account local species like oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia, Zones 59) and smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens, Zones 39), both of which have attractive pompoms and panicles of fertile and infertile florets.
In the aster or composite family, fertility may also be given up for the extra-showy appearance of extra petals. Bees and butterflies can get nectar and pollen from the single-flowered purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea, Zones 39), as well as cultivars like “Virgin” and “Green Envy.” Additionally, throughout the fall and winter, their seed heads draw goldfinches.
Include caterpillar host plants in your garden layout to make it truly hospitable to butterflies. The only plant that monarch caterpillars eat is milkweed (Asclepias spp. and cvs., Zones 39). Any garden arrangement is made brighter by the two-foot-tall, beautiful orange blossoms of the butterfly weed (A. tuberosa, Zones 49). While ‘Ice Ballet’ blooms white, Swamp Milkweed (A. incarnata, Zones 39) is higher at 3 to 4 feet and bubblegum pink. Both species are hardy perennials that self-sow native to the area. For fritillary butterflies, the violet family (Viola spp. and cvs., Zones 39), the spice bush (Lindera benzoin, Zones 49), and native grasses provide additional hosts (for skipper butterflies).
Don’t simply believe me; entire books have been written about this (my favorite is Attracting Native Pollinators by the Xerces Society). Make your garden your teacher. Your garden will be more inviting to pollinators and hence more beautiful.
Author and gardener Kristin Green lives in Bristol, Rhode Island, and is the creator of Plantiful: Start Small, Grow Big with 150 Plants that Spread, Self-sow, and Overwinter.
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What is consuming my hydrangea’s leaves?
Slugs, caterpillars, and rose chafers are the three principal pests responsible for the holes on hydrangea flower and foliage. Here’s how to eliminate each and stop them from returning.
How to keep slugs away:
- Sharp pieces of sawdust, diatomaceous earth, sharp sand, or broken oyster shells can easily cut the soft bodies of slugs (this is even lethal to them). To deter slugs and snails, construct a 2-foot-wide barrier around your hydrangeas and keep it dry by renewing it.
- Do not use mulch in your garden since it will attract slugs.
- Although some of them might draw even more slugs, you can set traps (cups of milk, beer, or yeast soaked in sugar water).
- Maintain ducks in your lawn; they naturally eat snails.
- Use of the poisonous metaldehyde should be avoided. It is ineffective and perhaps harmful to birds and other slug predators.
- The simplest way to cope with a persistent infestation of slugs is to remove them by hand, but check your hydrangeas at night when they are most active.
How to keep caterpillars away:
- It’s a good idea to cut back your hydrangea in early spring as close to the ground as you can (leave only about 4 inches of the stem), removing any eggs that are still on the stems, because the leaf-tier moth lays its eggs on the stems of hydrangeas in late fall and picks hydrangeas that grow on new wood.
- An alternative is to apply a biological insecticide containing Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki to the stems. As soon as your hydrangea starts to grow new growth, spray. Those emerging caterpillars from the eggs will be killed by the insecticide.
- By removing each pinned leaf one at a time and crushing the caterpillar, you can control an ongoing infestation.
How to keep rose chafers away:
- Since they deposit their eggs in sand, don’t use it as topsoil in your garden.
- More trees and shrubs that shade your garden will assist, as they like sunny locations and dry soil.
- Additionally, cultivating a lawn with a lot of clover will help deter these pests.
- Nematodes can help eliminate rose chafer larvae in your garden.
- Hand-picking rose chafers or vacuuming them with a hand-held vacuum and submerging them in soapy water can be used to control an ongoing infestation.