Here is professional guidance on how to put hydrangeas to bed for the winter season from guest bloggers Megan Nichols and Jessie Jacobson of Tonkadale Greenhouse in Minnetonka, Minnesota. (They may have more hydrangea trees and shrubs in their zip code than almost anywhere else in the United States, so they are aware!)
The temperature has dropped, and autumnal symbols can be seen everywhere. The garden needs to be put to bed soon. Hydrangeas reward us with large, stunning, and prodigious blooms all season long. You may say that they are givers. It’s time to return the favor now. It’s time to tuck the hydrangeas in with kisses and wishes for sweaty dreams.
Here in Minnesota, our moods can fluctuate as drastically as the unpredictably harsh winter weather extremes, snowfall, and freeze/thaw cycles. Despite the fact that many hydrangeas are regarded as hardy, all of this can confuse them. To survive the winter and come back bigger and better the next year, they require some care. Although hydrangeas cultivated in warmer areas don’t need as much post-season primping as those grown in our zone, there isn’t a single thing that wouldn’t appreciate a little tender loving care right now.
Utilize these suggestions to get the most out of your hydrangeas so that you can be the one to present at this time next season!
(Is pruning in order? No and yes. Here is our recommendation for which hydrangeas should be pruned right away and which should wait until spring.)
Don’t Stop Watering
Make a commitment! I shall water my hydrangeas till the earth freezes solid, you declare while raising your right hand. really good Hydrangeas are thirsty plants by nature, so it’s essential to give them regular, deep watering. We don’t need to get all linguistically nerdy right now, but their name literally means “hydration.” Winter’s cool, dry winds completely drain the moisture from the vegetation, and hydrangeas don’t use lip balm. It need not be heated in order to be dry!
If a freeze is not a concern where you live, water deeply but sparingly during the winter depending on how much rain you get.
This is how: Making a small hole in the side of a 5-gallon bucket, filling it with water, and placing it at the base of the plant while it slowly drips out of the bucket is one method. Another option is to lay your hose at the base of the plant for about an hour with the water turned on to a gentle drip.
Give Them One Last Hearty Meal
Composting your hydrangea beds in the fall will give them a boost for the upcoming growing season. Everyone feels better after a full night’s sleep and a filling breakfast. This also applies to hydrangeas. After a lengthy winter’s hibernation, they will be ravenous for some nice compost. Compost can decompose during the winter if it is used now, making nutrients easily accessible in spring. A few inches of compost is advisable even in regions without a deep cold. Only compost is being discussed here! Don’t give your hydrangeas fertilizers that are high in nitrogen because this can encourage them to produce new foliage growth.
This is how: Before laying down mulch in colder climates, top dress the area with compost, well-aged manure, or other organic material after the ground has frozen. This organic fertilizer, which is rich in nutrients, will decompose over the winter, making nutrients available to the plant in the spring. Apply compost in the late fall or early winter in zones that are warmer.
Mulch Matters
Mulching helps keep moisture in and weeds out in warmer climates while shielding the crown and roots of your hydrangeas from harsh winter temperatures in colder climates. Snow serves as a natural insulator if everything goes as it should. Plants suffer during strange winters with little snowfall and extreme temperature changes. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the plant’s base to offer hydrangeas the best chance of flourishing. While decorative mulch is useful, straw, marsh hay, or dead leaves are suggested instead.
This is how: Apply a 6–8 layer of mulch once the ground has frozen (or late fall or early winter in zones with milder winters). This shields plants from the heave-ho of springtime freeze/thaw cycles, which can yank them out of the ground. Inviting mice to make this their snug winter home, causing rotting and illness, or tricking the plant into believing it’s time to bud, are all consequences of mulching too early. Be patient; you don’t have to do things early simply because your neighbors are.
Keep Them Cozy
The amount of winter cold determines whether or not hydrangeas require protection. Winter protection is not required in zone 7 if the air temperature stays above zero degrees. Wrap or totally cover barely hardy hydrangeas in chilly areas. This is crucial for plants that bloom on old wood, such hydrangeas with mop heads and large leaves (Hydrangea macrophylla). The most recent types of mop head/big leaf hydrangeas, however, bloom on both fresh and old wood, so it’s important to keep that in mind. In their favor and ours! Hardier hydrangea varieties like the paniculata and arborescens don’t often require additional winter care, although really low temperatures might cause its limbs to die back. Consider covering if a colder than usual winter is forecast.
This is how: Wrap plants loosely in a few layers of burlap, making sure to tie it off with strong twine. Making a mulch mountain and covering the majority of the plant is an additional choice. Smaller, newly planted specimens respond well to this technique.
There’s Still Time To Plant!
The first three varieties of hydrangeas can be grown here in Zone 4; oak leaf hydrangeas can also be grown in warmer climates (zones 5 to 9). The optimal time to plant shrubs is in the fall. Just make sure to do all of the aforementioned things, including watering and mulching.
Here are some of our favorites that you can plant now for stunning blooms the following spring.
Panicle Hydrangeas
These late blooming hydrangeas, sometimes known as PeeGee hydrangeas (summer into early fall). They are covered in elongated, conical flower heads that emerge white or green and blush into pinks and peaches as the season goes on.
How should winter hydrangeas be protected?
Since I’ve been doing a radio show on Pittsburgh’s KDKA Radio for ten years, the most frequent query my co-host and I get is “Why doesn’t my hydrangea bloom?
Upon further enquiry, we invariably discover the caller is looking for information on Hydrangea macrophylla, a big-leaf hydrangea. These traditional hydrangeas produce lovely balls of pink or blue flowers, but in the northern United States, they are infamous for their unpredictability. They can blossom wonderfully one year and not have a single bud the following. Here are some suggestions you can implement right away to improve the blooms on your hydrangea if you’re a gardener in USDA zones 5 or 6 and have had similar experiences.
1. With very few exceptions, Hydrangea macrophylla cultivars like the double-flowered variety “Paraplu” develop their flower buds on ancient wood. This implies that the buds inside those seemingly dead twigs are actually the blossoms for the following year. Future blossoms are taken off if any branches are pruned now or in the spring. The optimum pruning method for big-leaf hydrangeas, according to my radio co-host and I, is to do none at all.
2. Cold temperatures and drying winds can harm the dormant flower buds trapped inside those brown sticks. The sporadic late-spring freezes are particularly harmful. Put a layer of protection around the plant to safeguard the dormant buds on your hydrangea. Each plant should have four 1×1 hardwood stakes hammered into the ground. Burlap or black landscape fabric should then be stapled to the posts surrounding each plant. Make sure the fence is as least as high as the plant. Avoid covering the top; the weight of any accumulated snow could cause the entire structure to topple over onto your plant. Till the hydrangea’s buds begin to swell in late spring, keep this protective castle in place.
3.Big-leaf hydrangeas typically perform better if placed in a more protected area. If at all feasible, move any non-blooming specimens to a corner that is shielded from strong winds and close to a road or wall that absorbs heat. The optimum times to transfer hydrangeas are in the early spring, before the leaf appears, or in the fall, just before the ground freezes.
4.You might want to think about including a couple different species of hydrangeas in your landscaping for more dependable bloom production. A slightly hardier form known as hydrangea arborescent develops enormous white flower clusters that resemble snowballs. My favorite cultivar is “Annabelle.” The oak-leaf hydrangea, H. quercifolia, is another extremely dependable bloomer with magnificent fall color and white conical blooms. However, there are a few cultivars of H. macrophylla that are currently available that have been chosen for their ability to bloom on both old and new wood. With a more recent introduction dubbed “BloomStruck,” I’ve had the most success.
What is your favorite hydrangea, and how do you keep it safe during the winter?
How should I care for my hydrangea over the winter?
One of the most adored Southern belles in the garden is the hydrangea. There are many reasons to enjoy shrubs; they tolerate shade, come in a range of colors, and can add interest all year long. In addition, hydrangeas typically require little maintenance and thrive in challenging growth environments.
Hydrangeas in Winter
Mulch over the hydrangeas in the winter to protect them. Leave faded blossoms alone to add interest in winter.
You may be wondering how to ensure that your shrubs remain secure over the winter due to the unpredictable nature of the weather. I am aware that I am in Georgia. So I asked Ryan McEnaney of Bailey Nurseries the most important winter care issues for hydrangeas, and fortunately, the answers are straightforward:
Is there a time or temperature when it’s “too late” to winterize hydrangeas?
Any form of protection is beneficial. Winter months bring a wide range of temperatures, so if you’ve already experienced any really chilly spells, some harm may have already been done. Despite this, continue to preserve it to ward off any potential threats in the months to come.
Will mulch prevent plants from heaving? Is there a type of mulch that is better for winterizing plants? When spring returns, do I need to remove the mulch?
Plants in the ground and in containers benefit greatly from mulch during the winter. Beyond providing general security, the mulch’s role is to establish an environment that is more consistent with what is going on outside. Temperatures can change from -10 to 30 degrees in some areas of the nation within a week or two. As a result, the root system is disrupted as water molecules in the ground freeze (contract) and then defrost (expand) (heaving). Mulch aids in minimizing those abrupt alterations to safeguard the plants. We advise using wood mulch, oak leaves, or pine straw.
To prevent damage from late spring, wait until after your last frost date to [remove to the mulch]. However, don’t wait too long as heat can develop moisture, which can cause the stems to rot in the absence of air flow.
When ought my hydrangeas to be covered?
The greatest places to grow hydrangeas are warm winters with few days below freezing. The plant needs protection to survive in the event of a freeze or if you are growing your hydrangea in a cooler area. Since hydrangeas develop their flower and leaf buds in the fall, freezing temperatures may cause the buds to die before they can bloom. In the end, the plant dies since there aren’t enough leaves to maintain it. The hydrangea can bloom every year if it is protected over the winter.
Before the ground freezes in the fall, spread a 4-inch layer of straw mulch all around the base of the hydrangea. Winter soil temperature is maintained by mulching, safeguarding hydrangea roots.
- The greatest places to grow hydrangeas are warm winters with few days below freezing.
- Winter soil temperature is maintained by mulching, safeguarding hydrangea roots.
To completely round the hydrangea, cut a length of concrete reinforcing mesh. To create a cylinder, coil the mesh around the plant and use wire to join the mesh’s ends.
Straw, peat moss, or dried leaves should be used to completely cover the hydrangea in the mesh cylinder. Throughout the winter, as the straw or leaves settle, replace them to keep the plant always covered.
Early in the spring, about four weeks before the last anticipated spring frost, remove the mesh cylinder and straw. The mesh cylinder should be removed as soon as early spring bulbs like crocuses and tulips start to bloom.
After the mesh is taken off, if any freezing temperatures are anticipated, protect the hydrangea with a burlap bag. When the weather starts to warm up again, uncover the hydrangea.
- To completely round the hydrangea, cut a length of concrete reinforcing mesh.
- Straw, peat moss, or dried leaves should be used to completely cover the hydrangea in the mesh cylinder.
In regions where frost is a rarity, covering the hydrangea with a burlap bag only needs to be done on the days or nights when frost is expected, and then the burlap bag should be removed.
Even if they are sheltered, hydrangea flower buds may not survive in locations that frequently experience winter cold, but leave buds almost certainly will, preventing the shrub from dying.
How might late frost damage hydrangeas?
Winter winds and cold temperatures both have the potential to be fatal. This catch-all phrase simply denotes plant dying over the winter. The plant may perish due to the low winter temperatures or from drying out brought on by the winds.
Since hydrangeas become dormant in the winter, winter damage to hydrangeas can not become apparent until spring. If your hydrangea doesn’t produce any green shoots in March or April, it could be your first indication of harm.
Protecting the shrubs from winter’s wrath is necessary to avoid winter kill in hydrangeas, which includes the young buds on the plants. Laying down a heavy layer of mulch over hydrangeas’ root zone is a wonderful place to start with winterizing them. For this, straw works wonderfully.
Use a wire cage to enclose the shrub or construct a cage around it using sturdy posts and chicken wire for even better protection. Wrap the cage in burlap or insulating material. Additionally, you should give the plant a lot of water right before the ground freezes.
How much cold can hydrangeas withstand?
Many people were dissatisfied last year because their hydrangea shrubs produced few, if any, flowers. It was assumed that the particularly hard winter was to blame.
There are numerous hydrangea species, but the majority of them that are grown by homeowners in their gardens belong to the genus Hydrangea macrophylla.
The two groupings of H. macrophylla are distinguished by the appearance of their flowers. The mopheads have a broad, rounded shape and can range in color from red to pink to white to blue to green and many colors in between. Similar in color, the lacecaps are flattened corymbs with fertile blooms in the center and spectacular clusters of sepals of various sizes around them.
Hardiness zones 6 to 9 apply to H. macrophylla. A hydrangea should, in theory, be able to withstand temperatures as low as -10 degrees. However, in the real world, temperatures as low as 12 degrees and freezes in the late fall or early spring may limit this hydrangea’s ability to flower.
H. macrophylla forms its bloom buds in the summer and the fall in response to the shorter days and chilly temperatures. To achieve bud dormancy, the bud must be refrigerated for 1,000–1,200 hours, or roughly seven weeks.
As the weather gets warmer, buds open, shoots appear, and blooms grow. Flower buds and vegetative stems will perish if this happens at the end of February, as it did last year and may do this year as well. In the spring, the plant might grow again from the root, but it won’t produce flowers. It has sturdy roots, but delicate flower buds.
On fresh wood, on the woody stems from the current year, H. macrophylla flowers. If a shrub needs to be pruned, it should have been done last year when the blooming season had just ended. Avoid pruning it. You will now remove any budding flower buds.
I have been growing my favorite variety of H. macrophylla for almost 15 years, and it is called “Blue Billows.”
Dr. Richard Lighty of the Mount Cuba Center in Hockessin, Delaware, originally grew this lacecap, Hydrangea serrata, from seed gathered in the Korean mountains. The inner fertile flowers are a darker blue than the outer sterile blossoms, which are blue with a pink blush.
Before relatively recently, the taxonomists classified the H. serrata variation as a distinct species from the macrophylla. It possesses each of the traits that distinguish H. macrophylla from other species. The leaves are smaller, though, and it has a stunning copper-red fall color. From June to October, the plant blooms; as fall approaches, the blossoms turn over to reveal pink undersides.
It is situated for me in some moderate shade with drained soil. They call it a “robust plant.
Most recently, the big root ball split in two when I moved it to a shadier spot. I then discovered that it had sucker-grown or air-layered three smaller plants.
It is a dense shrub that grows to be about 3 feet tall and wide, and it is so covered in leaf and flowers that I was unaware I had four additional plants until I started to move it.
This low-maintenance shrub works well as a border shrub or as a foundation plant. And it will offer you profusion that you can keep or gift to others as a reward. It was chosen by the Pennsylvania Horticulture Society in 1990 as a Gold Medal Plant.
Depending on the amount of aluminum ions in the soil, the color of the flower varies. In more acidic soils, the concentration is higher, whereas in more alkaline soils, it is lower. For the majority of H. macrophylla and H. serrata cultivars, acidic soil (pH 5.5 and below) will result in blue flowers, whereas neutral to alkaline soils (pH 6.5 and higher) will typically result in pink flowers. The blooms will be purple or a combination of blue and pink blossoms will be seen on the same plant between pH 5.5 and pH 6.5.
The most constant guideline for growing hydrangeas, though, is that there is a lot of variety and no absolutes.
At this time of year, Hydrangea arborescens is another hydrangea that merits discussion. It also appears as lacecap and mophead flowers. The names “Annabelle,” “Invincible Spirit,” and “Grandiflora” are a few well-known cultivars. All of these flower on fresh wood. Cut them to the ground now, in late winter, and apply a mild fertilizer.
Place a support structure around the plant before it starts to grow since the flowers are frequently too heavy for the stems to keep the plant upright.
The new plant will start to bloom in June or July and continue to do so for several weeks.
As the petals wilt, cut the stem at the base and remove the leaves if you want to dry them. Cut them to the length you want, then hang them backwards. They make wonderful dried flowers and can be sprayed with spray paint to add color.