Here is professional guidance on how to put hydrangeas to bed for the winter season from guest bloggers Megan Nichols and Jessie Jacobson of Tonkadale Greenhouse in Minnetonka, Minnesota. (They may have more hydrangea trees and shrubs in their zip code than almost anywhere else in the United States, so they are aware!)
The temperature has dropped, and autumnal symbols can be seen everywhere. The garden needs to be put to bed soon. Hydrangeas reward us with large, stunning, and prodigious blooms all season long. You may say that they are givers. It’s time to return the favor now. It’s time to tuck the hydrangeas in with kisses and wishes for sweaty dreams.
Here in Minnesota, our moods can fluctuate as drastically as the unpredictably harsh winter weather extremes, snowfall, and freeze/thaw cycles. Despite the fact that many hydrangeas are regarded as hardy, all of this can confuse them. To survive the winter and come back bigger and better the next year, they require some care. Although hydrangeas cultivated in warmer areas don’t need as much post-season primping as those grown in our zone, there isn’t a single thing that wouldn’t appreciate a little tender loving care right now.
Utilize these suggestions to get the most out of your hydrangeas so that you can be the one to present at this time next season!
(Is pruning in order? No and yes. Here is our recommendation for which hydrangeas should be pruned right away and which should wait until spring.)
Don’t Stop Watering
Make a commitment! I shall water my hydrangeas till the earth freezes solid, you declare while raising your right hand. really good Hydrangeas are thirsty plants by nature, so it’s essential to give them regular, deep watering. We don’t need to get all linguistically nerdy right now, but their name literally means “hydration.” Winter’s cool, dry winds completely drain the moisture from the vegetation, and hydrangeas don’t use lip balm. It need not be heated in order to be dry!
If a freeze is not a concern where you live, water deeply but sparingly during the winter depending on how much rain you get.
This is how: Making a small hole in the side of a 5-gallon bucket, filling it with water, and placing it at the base of the plant while it slowly drips out of the bucket is one method. Another option is to lay your hose at the base of the plant for about an hour with the water turned on to a gentle drip.
Give Them One Last Hearty Meal
Composting your hydrangea beds in the fall will give them a boost for the upcoming growing season. Everyone feels better after a full night’s sleep and a filling breakfast. This also applies to hydrangeas. After a lengthy winter’s hibernation, they will be ravenous for some nice compost. Compost can decompose during the winter if it is used now, making nutrients easily accessible in spring. A few inches of compost is advisable even in regions without a deep cold. Only compost is being discussed here! Don’t give your hydrangeas fertilizers that are high in nitrogen because this can encourage them to produce new foliage growth.
This is how: Before laying down mulch in colder climates, top dress the area with compost, well-aged manure, or other organic material after the ground has frozen. This organic fertilizer, which is rich in nutrients, will decompose over the winter, making nutrients available to the plant in the spring. Apply compost in the late fall or early winter in zones that are warmer.
Mulch Matters
Mulching helps keep moisture in and weeds out in warmer climates while shielding the crown and roots of your hydrangeas from harsh winter temperatures in colder climates. Snow serves as a natural insulator if everything goes as it should. Plants suffer during strange winters with little snowfall and extreme temperature changes. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the plant’s base to offer hydrangeas the best chance of flourishing. While decorative mulch is useful, straw, marsh hay, or dead leaves are suggested instead.
This is how: Apply a 6–8 layer of mulch once the ground has frozen (or late fall or early winter in zones with milder winters). This shields plants from the heave-ho of springtime freeze/thaw cycles, which can yank them out of the ground. Inviting mice to make this their snug winter home, causing rotting and illness, or tricking the plant into believing it’s time to bud, are all consequences of mulching too early. Be patient; you don’t have to do things early simply because your neighbors are.
Keep Them Cozy
The amount of winter cold determines whether or not hydrangeas require protection. Winter protection is not required in zone 7 if the air temperature stays above zero degrees. Wrap or totally cover barely hardy hydrangeas in chilly areas. This is crucial for plants that bloom on old wood, such hydrangeas with mop heads and large leaves (Hydrangea macrophylla). The most recent types of mop head/big leaf hydrangeas, however, bloom on both fresh and old wood, so it’s important to keep that in mind. In their favor and ours! Hardier hydrangea varieties like the paniculata and arborescens don’t often require additional winter care, although really low temperatures might cause its limbs to die back. Consider covering if a colder than usual winter is forecast.
This is how: Wrap plants loosely in a few layers of burlap, making sure to tie it off with strong twine. Making a mulch mountain and covering the majority of the plant is an additional choice. Smaller, newly planted specimens respond well to this technique.
There’s Still Time To Plant!
The first three varieties of hydrangeas can be grown here in Zone 4; oak leaf hydrangeas can also be grown in warmer climates (zones 5 to 9). The optimal time to plant shrubs is in the fall. Just make sure to do all of the aforementioned things, including watering and mulching.
Here are some of our favorites that you can plant now for stunning blooms the following spring.
Panicle Hydrangeas
These late blooming hydrangeas, sometimes known as PeeGee hydrangeas (summer into early fall). They are covered in elongated, conical flower heads that emerge white or green and blush into pinks and peaches as the season goes on.
How hot should I keep my hydrangeas covered?
When to Take Off the Cover. The following day, when it is at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit, remove the cover.
How do I keep my hydrangeas safe during the winter?
Winter winds and cold temperatures both have the potential to be fatal. This catch-all phrase simply denotes plant dying over the winter. The plant may perish due to the low winter temperatures or from drying out brought on by the winds.
Since hydrangeas become dormant in the winter, winter damage to hydrangeas can not become apparent until spring. If your hydrangea doesn’t produce any green shoots in March or April, it could be your first indication of harm.
Protecting the shrubs from winter’s wrath is necessary to avoid winter kill in hydrangeas, which includes the young buds on the plants. Laying down a heavy layer of mulch over hydrangeas’ root zone is a wonderful place to start with winterizing them. For this, straw works wonderfully.
Use a wire cage to enclose the shrub or construct a cage around it using sturdy posts and chicken wire for even better protection. Wrap the cage in burlap or insulating material. Additionally, you should give the plant a lot of water right before the ground freezes.
What are hydrangeas used for in the fall and winter?
Short response? Just enough! However, we are aware that many who are unsure of whether to cut them down or remove the dried blooms won’t find this response to be particularly helpful. So, now that summer is over and October is here, here’s what you need to know about your hydrangeas.
2. Once your hydrangea flowers turn brown, you have two choices, regardless of the color of your flowers. Just below the bloom, you can either remove the dead flowers from the plant or leave them on it till winter. The majority of dried hydrangea blossoms fall off sometime over the winter, and any that are still attached to the plant can be picked off in the spring.
3. Avoid “tidying them up! You’ll have less flowers the next summer if you trim the stems now to make them look neater. Waiting until May to prune any hydrangea varieties is preferable, and for the blue and pink flowering mopheads and lacecaps, the only thing you should do at that time is remove any dead stems.
4. Fertilizing in the fall is a wise move.
When it’s growing season the following year, the shrubs will benefit from a little coating of Holly-tone around the plants.
5. Winter security? You have the choice. It has not been demonstrated that covering mopheads and lacecaps will be helpful if temperatures fall to zero or below, but a burlap windscreen may be able to block chilly winter and spring winds in exposed areas.
6. Tidy up! It’s always a good idea to rake up the fallen Hydrangea leaves. By doing this, the area is less likely to harbor disease and insects that overwinter. This is crucial for hydrangea foliage control on the Cape, where Chilli Thrips have been found to deface the leaves.
Mophead hydrangeas provide stunning blue, purple, and pink flowers in the fall that contrast with the changing leaves.
Brown blooms are optional; if they irritate you, you can clip them off.
Do hydrangeas get hurt by frost?
One of the most exquisite and many flowers you may have in your garden or landscape is a hydrangea. But they can be suddenly and unexpectedly damaged by cold and frost. Fortunately, there are a few things you can do to assist your hydrangeas regain their former beauty, if not this year then most definitely the following.
Your Hydrangea can nearly always bounce back from damage brought on by cold and frost, despite the fact that it can be a significant setback. Wait till the weather has warmed up before pruning back the harmed growth on damaged hydrangeas. Your hydrangea might still bloom this year and return to its typical growth patterns the following spring.
A hydrangea can be harmed by frost and cold, but happily, these plants are fairly resilient. Frost-damaged hydrangeas will probably recover with a little TLC if pruned properly, even though it might affect this year’s flowers.
How should a hydrangea be wrapped?
Winter damage, according to Clemson University Cooperative Extension, is the main reason why hydrangea blooms fail to open. Don’t stop watering hydrangeas until the ground freezes, advises Tonkadale Nurseries, in order to start hydrangea preparation for the winter. Set a dripping hose next to the plant for about an hour to water it occasionally throughout the winter if the ground doesn’t freeze. Place a few inches of compost (not fertilizer) around the plant in late fall or early winter or after the ground freezes to supply nutrients in the spring. Over the compost, spread 6 to 8 inches of mulch, straw, or fallen leaves.
Wrapping hydrangeas in burlap will shield them from the winter chill and wind chill factor. The National Garden Bureau advises beginning with a tomato cage or chicken wire-based wire structure. Burlap should be wrapped around the wire or cage, and it should be secured with twine. Fill the interior with pine needles, straw, hay, or other filler with care. Bubble wrap can be placed around the cage’s outside for increased insulation, and a cover made of burlap, plastic, or craft foam can be fastened to the top.