By Marianne Willburn, a writer, landscape architect, and gardening specialist.
Many gardeners are on the hunt for plants that can not only survive in dry, poor soils, but also thrive there in an effort to create environmentally friendly landscapes that require the least amount of maintenance. Given all that it contributes to the landscape in terms of color, texture, pollinators, and presence, Russian sage ought to rank quite close to the top of that list. Although it is not a native plant, if you give it the well-drained conditions it requires, it won’t spread quickly and will remain where you plant it for many years.
How do you prevent the spread of Russian sage?
Our landscaper installed several Russian sage plants around five years ago, and they are a nuisance. There are three of them, all healthy and lovely, however they produce a lot of suckers and are challenging to remove.
I used to trim the originals back in the fall, but I stopped because I felt maybe I was encouraging them to spread. Last winter, I let them look scraggly, only to discover that they were still growing.
Russian sage appears to be a plant that can be described as both Jekyll and Hyde. Many of you “fortunate” people have plants that are too aggressive for their own good, but a few people I’ve spoken to don’t appear to have issues with the suckering.
It makes no difference whether you cut them back or not whether they succumb. I can’t give you a simple response. Planting Russian sage with a drip emitter or two close by in a dry, xeric environment seems to be one way to prevent the issue from happening. As a result, the plant usually stays in the irrigated area.
Although it doesn’t always succeed, most plants appear to conduct themselves better in these kinds of circumstances.
Planting a Russian sage inside of a “sleeve” that inhibits the plant’s subterranean runners, or rhizomes, from spreading out is another technique to keep it contained.
Use a plastic nursery pot that has had the bottom taken out. I would use one that was rather huge, maybe 1420 inches in diameter. Put the Russian sage in the center and bury it completely.
The plant won’t grow as large or vigorously as a result of this slight root restriction, but those rhizomes will still be present.
You should avoid beginning to apply herbicides. The ones that work have systemic effects and end up harming or destroying the mother plant.
There isn’t much of an alternative to using contact-type weed killers. These herbicides won’t harm the mother plant, but you must keep spraying for as long as you have the plant, and Russian sage is a semi-woody plant, so they don’t actually work that well on it.
Sucker Punch is a substance that slows the suckering of problematic plants like these. After removing the suckers, you spray the solution on the ends that you just cut. It prevents the plant in that location from sucking.
Even though you’ll have to do it every year, at least you’ll be free of those bothersome suckers!
The only other choice is to keep excavating the suckers like you’ve been doing it all along.
Since it is difficult and messy job, as you indicated, many people eventually just dig the plant up and get rid of it completely.
Is Russian sage a self-propagating plant?
Russian sage can be planted using a few tips that will aid in the plant’s establishment in your garden.
Place your planting first. For the Russian sage to flourish, full sun is necessary. Plants tend to flop open as stems stretch for sunlight when given a little shade. A stretch along a driveway or an area with high sun that gets as hot as the area between a sidewalk and a street are good choices. Russian sage enjoys heat and sunlight.
When planting Russian sage, keep in mind that this lovely plant dislikes two things: high humidity, and soil that remains wet all year. Select a planting location with alkaline, dry soil or ordinary, well-drained soil. Both soil types are compatible with Russian sage. Plants often become slack and floppy in overly fertile soil. Insert hoop stakes or support stems with stakes and string in this situation.
Plants mature at a height of 3 to 5 feet and a spread of 2 to 4 feet. Russian sage grows in clumps, so provide the plants some room to expand by placing them about three feet apart or three feet away from other plants in the garden.
At your preferred plant store, keep an eye out for containers of Russian sage. Russian sage can be planted any time between early spring and six weeks before the first frost, but late spring is the best time. The earth is now warm, and plants should begin to grow swiftly. If you decide to plant Russian sage later in the summer, make sure to water the soil frequently as the young plants grow.
There are numerous types of Russian sage for sale. The straight species can reach heights of 3 to 5 feet and widths of 2 to 4 feet. Russian sage known as “Little Spire” is a scaled-down kind that grows only 18 to 24 inches tall and wide. Russian sage known as “Blue Spire” has stems that may grow up to three feet tall and wide and is known to grow more uprightly than other varieties.
In the correct circumstances, Russian sage can self-sow and can also spread via rhizomes. Gardeners claim that this perennial bloom can occasionally be invasive. The National Invasive Species database does not, however, report or list it as such. Keep an eye out for spreading stems in the garden. As you find them, pull and cut them.
Is Russian sage a beneficial herb?
Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia, also known as Salvia yangii), which blooms from mid-summer into the fall, delivers carefree color with an open, airy habit and beautiful drifts of lavender-blue flowers.
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Once established, Russian sage is a low-maintenance herbaceous, woody perennial or subshrub that is simple to maintain. The enticing tubular flowers are a favorite of hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies and bloom for an incredibly long time. This mint cousin, which is native to central Asia, has silvery-green leaves that release a strong aroma when crushed.
Russian sage is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9, but in colder areas, it will benefit from winter protection. While some types can be larger, most only grow to be 2-3 feet tall and wide. Russian sage is appropriate for water-conscious landscapes because of its high heat and drought tolerance. This adaptable perennial plant can be used as a filler in a mixed border, as hedging, in mass plantings throughout the landscape, or in containers.
What is drawn to Russian sage?
- Russian sage is a striking undiscovered cut flower that draws butterflies and bees.
- Perfectly complements other low-water plants like lavender, sedum, and ornamental grasses. It also gets along well with succulents with bold leaves like big agaves and aloes.
- In addition to xeriscapes, hillsides, and rock landscapes, Russian sage blends in with deer-frequented, Mediterranean-themed gardens.
Russian sage is it messy?
Avoid making the same error as me and planting Russian Sage close to the pool where it can hang over the water because it too has a tendency to “drop” its tiny blooms in an untidy manner. USDA hardiness zones 5 through 9 support growth.
How can Russian sage be controlled?
What may my Russian sage plant be used for? It appeals to me, and I appreciate that it blooms throughout summer. It generates a lot of sprouts and expands out of control, which is what I don’t enjoy. Is there a way to manage these sprouts without destroying the plant as a whole?
Answer:
The Russian sage plant has lovely blossoms that, as you mentioned, have the bad tendency to spread quickly. You can try a number of methods to control its uncontrollable growth.
Herbicides for contact are one alternative. These herbicides exclusively harm the specific area of the plant to which they are sprayed. They will not destroy other areas of the plant like translocated (systemic) herbicides do since they cannot migrate through the plant. Apply this to the undesirable sprouts. These sprouts will reappear below the herbicide’s active level, though.
Reducing the water they receive is another factor to take into account. When properly irrigated, Russian sage plants will grow huge. The plant won’t get as big if the irrigation is restricted, but it will still produce blossoms. Fertilizer will promote growth, particularly nitrogen fertilizer. Decrease the amount of nitrogen fertilizer you give the plant. Choose a fertilizer with a high phosphorus content that contains little to no nitrogen because phosphorus is more crucial for flowering (read the label for this information). What you require should be available from superphosphate and colloidal phosphate. In our calcareous soils, bonemeal is not an excellent source of phosphate.
Russian sage can be controlled from spreading by planting it in an area where it can expand and form a substantial cluster. The Russian sage can also be restrained by being surrounded by plants that are fiercely competitive. In Uzbekistan, I observed Russian sage flourishing in its natural environment. The grasses encircling them in competition with the Russian sage plants prevented the Russian sage from growing rapidly, which is why the plants weren’t big and sprawling. Around my Russian sage in my yard, I’ve put Mexican hat and chocolate flower plants. For nutrients and water, these plants compete with Russian sage. They successfully slow the growth of the Russian sage in this way. These aggressive plants are simpler to manage because they don’t have rhizomes, which are underground runners. When the competitors spread too far, they might need to be cut back. Additionally, the seedlings of the rival plants must be taken out. It may take up a lot of room to grow Russian sage alongside other competitive plants, but it looks nice and the other plants help to control each plant’s size.
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Mosquitoes are repelled by Russian sage.
WMBF-CONWAY, SC – Don’t use too much bug spray if you’re having a party on the patio over Memorial Day weekend.
Many of the plants that might deter mosquitoes are currently highly popular at Conway’s Plants Direct Nursery.
The nursery’s proprietor, Randy Gaskins, recommended ten plants to keep mosquitoes at bay.
Initially, wax myrtle. When the leaves are brushed together, the plant emits a faintly fragrant smell.
Because it’s a native, Gaskins added, it’s very affordable to use as mosquito control in the area. The plant thrives in pots and can be used as a hedge in the front or back yards.
Rosemary, second. This plant is well recognized for giving any dish made at home taste, but it can also keep insects away.
It’s a terrific container plant, so Gaskins advised using pots of it around your patio where guests would be congregating for a party.
Bee Balm comes next. Bees might be drawn to it, but not mosquitoes. The plant has several distinct hues and a lovely, fragrant blossom. Gaskins claimed that it also functions as a repellant.
Society Another repellant is garlic. It smells like garlic, as the name would imply, and deters insects as a result.
Although Lemon Verbena and Russian Sage are both used in cooking, mosquitoes are deterred by their different aromas.
Lavender is likewise well-liked, particularly inside, but according to Gaskins, it also acts as a repellant.
According to Gaskins, the Dusty Miller plant has attractive foliage color that aids in mosquito repulsion.
The most well-known and productive plant, according to Gaskins, is citronella. Rub the leaves together, and the fragrance is exactly like a citronella candle.
According to Gaskins, the better it dissipates the stench the more you rub it and someone brushes against it. “The plant looks excellent in a pot outside or planted by a deck, patio, or backyard.
Gaskins advised people to get rid of pots, buckets, and anything else holding standing water to prevent mosquitoes. He continued, “It negates the purpose of having plants that repel mosquitoes.”
What other plants may I grow in its place?
There are several plants that, in my opinion, shouldn’t be present in most gardens. This is just my viewpoint; each gardener should form their own. These plants were my choice because of the labor-intensive maintenance required to keep them from overrunning your garden and forcing you to hire a professional to do it when the money could be better used elsewhere. These are them:
Liriope 1.
It rarely stays at the desired location and is intrusive. After a few years of being upset by it encroaching into everything else, clients frequently ask us to dig it all out. Since it is evergreen and makes a charming border plant, it is popular, but unless you desire to pull it up and transplant it in orderly rows every few years, it will irritate you. Carex pensylvanica or glauca, which is similarly evergreen and has a growth pattern resembling that of liriope but is not invasive and is also native, might be a sensible replacement (therefore low maintenance).
2. sage of Russia
Although I adore the latin name of this plant (Perovskia atriplicifolia) and use it to impress others with my botanical knowledge, I do not advise planting it. This is a lovely purple plant that looks great when planted and which many people mistake for lavender. It has a tendency to spread from its initial location onto other areas of the landscape or garden after a few years. It could be utilized in a bed with solely Russian sage in large plants. Catmint is an option; I prefer the variety “Walkers Low.” Catmint requires little upkeep, draws butterflies, and does not migrate like Russian sage.
Third, English ivy
I have come up with my own technique for digging ivy, which involves having one person roll the ivy back while the other digs out the roots. This being said, the project is huge! Ivy competes with and typically defeats whatever plant it is planted close, climbing on trees and killing them, destroying the façade of houses, and much more. I would advise using the indigenous Pachysandra procumbens as a groundcover.
If you want to plant one of these, make sure to do it properly by placing it in a bed by itself and far from any trees or other plants you want to grow. For nutrients, water, and space in your garden, each of these will compete and win.
Must Russian Sage be Reduced?
For us on Nantucket, Russian sage is an excellent plant because it possesses all the characteristics we value in a superb perennial:
- It is resilient and requires little particular care from the gardener to overwinter.
- Most of us on the island have a lean, sandy soil, which is where it operates best.
- Its fragrant, gray-green leaves has just the right amount of fuzz to be particularly deer resistant.
- It has a lengthy interest season, looking fantastic from June through October.
- When seasonal people are present on the island in the middle to late summer, it blooms for a very long time.
- It is extremely adaptable in the environment thanks to its lacy leaves, blue flowers, and open habit. It works well with decorative grasses, can be added to perennial gardens, and creates a striking mass planting.
I’ve also had great success pruning Russian sage in the fall when I take down my spent perennials, even though many of us have been trained to leave it standing and prune it in the spring. Wait until it is dormant, preferably after a frost, but be sure to do so.
Russian Sage should be pruned with the following goals in mind: Removing dead twigs, cutting off broken or damaged branches, and encouraging vigorous growth from a healthy foundation of stems that will bloom the next summer.
To prune Russian Sage while it’s dormant, adhere to these steps:
- Trim back all previous growth to healthy buds within 6 to 8 inches of the ground.
- Remove any damaged or broken timber as well as any dead branches.
- Remove any weak branches that won’t be able to sustain robust new ones the next season.
- In order to encourage strong, new shoots to replace the older ones, prune a couple of the oldest stems close to the soil, if possible.
I’ll share a small secret with you now that we are aware of how to prune Russian sage properly. The “Hair Cut method of pruning” is used by the majority of island landscapers because of how forgiving this plant is. Simply grab the twigs in one hand and use the other to cut them all off evenly. Or, if you’d rather, use your hedge trimmers to attack them! Any remaining dead twigs will be rapidly buried by new growth next summer.