The plant genus Euphorbia (Euphorbia spp.) contains more than 2,000 species. Around 1,200 of them are succulents, some of which have odd shapes and broad, mushy leaves, while others remarkably resemble cactus and have spines. The genus’ plants are frequently referred to as spurge or euphorbia by growers.
With repeated additions and deletions of species and subgenera, Euphorbia is a somewhat ambiguous genus. The genus contains species that are annual, perennial, and biennial. There are species of herbaceous plants, woody shrubs, as well as deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs. The presence of a milky white sap in the plants is the defining trait among the species.
Most of the euphorbia species utilized for landscaping or as indoor plants are succulents with interesting forms and foliage, but a handful are also prized for their blooms. The poinsettia is one of the most well-known euphorbia species that is not a succulent.
The majority of euphorbias flower in the spring or summer and hibernate over the winter. Most species should be planted in the spring, when the risk of frost has gone, however houseplants can usually be started at any time. The growth rates of the species range from slowly to rather swiftly.
Euphorbia is poisonous to dogs, cats, and humans in all forms. Each plant species has a different amount of toxicity.
Euphorbia Trigona: Succulent or cactus?
A succulent that requires little maintenance, Euphorbia trigona is a native of West Africa. With its erect stems, ridges of transient leaves, and thorns, it adds an interesting architectural element to interior designs.
How are Euphorbia succulents cared for?
Spurge typically needs full sun and well-drained soil. No one in the family is picky about the soil’s quality, however some can accept shadier surroundings. They may even survive in extremely poor soils and resist dry spells.
The upkeep of euphorbia plants is easy. Give them some light, a little moisture, and keep an eye out for pesky insects like whiteflies. To avoid powdery mildew, provide water underneath the plant’s leaves.
Spurge won’t require much fertilizing. Prior to feeding your plants with a water-soluble plant food, wait until the bottom leaves become yellow.
When the plant becomes out of control, prune. These plants are virtually unkillable and an excellent option for beginning gardeners. Growing Euphorbia to give to a friend is another excellent hobby for a novice.
Euphorbias are they cacti?
Particularly the stem succulents, Euphorbia species are among the plant taxa that laypeople most frequently mistake for cactus.
[19] Cacti do not secrete latex, although euphorbias do, and the fluid is sticky and milky white. [19] In contrast to cactus, which can have incredibly beautiful flowers, euphorbia flowers are typically small and unremarkable (although the structures surrounding the flowers may not be). [19] With growth patterns like cactus, euphorbias from desert settings contain thorns, which are distinct from cacti’s spines. [19]
There are a few key differences which I will break down:
Cacti are only indigenous to the New World, with the exception of the Rhipsalis baccifera. There are no cacti in Europe, Russia, Australia, nor in Africa or Asia (except for that one species of Rhipsalis). On the other hand, euphorbia are native to many regions of the world, although those from Africa and India are the most cactus-like.
Both cacti and euphorbias have prickles, however the prickles on each species are unique. All cacti have areoles, which are structures that serve as the source of the spines, which are modified leaves. The most common thorns on euphorbias are modified stems that are typically seen in pairs. Areoles do not exist in euphorbias.
Cacti and succulent Euphorbias both retain water for dry spells, but latex, a hazardous sap, is present in all Euphorbias. It is most likely a Euphorbia if you cut open a succulent and it weeps this white fluid.
Cacti and Euphorbias both produce flowers, however the blossoms are typically extremely dissimilar. Euphorbia blooms are often subtle, whereas cactus blossoms are frequently spectacularly colorful and striking. Flowers from euphorbia are frequently a light greenish-yellow tint. However, some Euphorbias, such as Euphorbia milii, have vivid flowers (Crown of Thorns).
So there you have it—in a nutshell, the similarities and differences between cacti and euphorbias. Next time you see a spiny succulent, you’ll be able to identify it as a cactus, a Euphorbia, or something else by taking a closer look.
Does euphorbia grow indoors?
Have a space in your home that receives a lot of light and begs for a plant? With the right care and attention, columnar euphorbia, which are intricate, sculptural succulents, will thrive inside. Continue reading for information on growing euphorbia as indoor plants as well as other fascinating facts about this beautiful plant. So come choose your favorite euphorbia at Flora Grubb Gardens, our store in San Francisco!
Let’s first address the biggest issue in the room: euphorbia are not cactus!
Despite having a similar appearance, cactus and columnar euphorbia are separate plants. You may observe the cactus’ rigid, upright trunk and arms if you look at a Saguaro. It grows in the desert and has spikes to protect itself from predators. Then take a look at a candelabra tree, which is a kind of euphorbia and has arms that are spiky for defense. In the desert, candelabra trees can also be found. What makes a difference, then? Contrary to popular belief, there are no cacti outside of the “New World.” Surely Africa has cacti, right? True, there are no cacti in Africa.
Understanding convergent evolution, which is described as “the process by which creatures that are not closely related independently evolve identical features as a result of needing to adapt to comparable habitats or ecological niches,” is necessary to reconcile this finding. In summary, because they were compelled to evolve in the same manner and under comparable circumstances, cactus and euphorbia are almost identical. Because this is an effective method for storing water, they are columnar. Spikes are used to protect that water. Despite having a similar appearance, they are totally unrelated despite having diverged over vast distances.
How do we tell the difference, then? The key differentiator is the flowers. Cactus blossoms are enormous, delicate, and frequently vividly colored. They are frequently pollinated by birds or bats. Fly pollination is common for euphorbia blooms, which are tiny, often green, and somewhat unimpressive. Whereas at first glance the spikes appear to be similar, closer examination reveals that euphorbia has thorns while cactus has spines (a modified leaf) (a modified stem). The majority of euphorbia have a toxic latex sap to aid in their defense, which is another distinct feature.
Columnar Euphorbia thrive well indoors when planted in a cactus mix that drains quickly. Here are some tips for taking care of them at home:
Euphorbias are warm-blooded plants, therefore south or west-facing windows inside—where the plant receives four or more hours of direct sunlight daily—are ideal, though they can also grow in extremely intense indirect light. If placed within 18 inches of a window, they could burn because their skin is more sensitive than cactus. To avoid this, arrange them so that they are angled toward the window. Make sure the plant has adequate drainage and is kept as warm as you can if you are growing it in bright indirect light.
Since these plants grow throughout the summer, water should be progressively increased through late spring and into the season when they can experience dryness without becoming completely parched. This indicates that the soil does not feel damp or chalky or cracked throughout the entire container. During this time, don’t leave them to sit about completely dry; shriveling is a sign that they haven’t received enough water. Although fertilizer is typically not necessary, you can use an all-purpose fertilizer in the summer at 1/4 strength.
During the fall, water should be gradually reduced. Euphorbia naturally receive relatively little winter precipitation. They should become completely dry between waterings over the winter. Make sure to let your euphorbia stand in a saucer of water until it has completely absorbed the water because it can be difficult to rehydrate a completely dry plant (as it is like a dry sponge, where water will just run off). Until there is standing water in the saucer that isn’t being absorbed, keep adding water and letting the plant sucking it out. The surplus water can then be emptied out of the saucer or removed by placing a towel, sponge, or turkey baster within the saucer to absorb it. Never leave columnar euphorbia submerged for longer than 12 hours.
Brown spots are the most typical problem with these columnar euphorbia. They may be corking if they are light brown and hard like a scab, which is the normal process of a plant aging. Consider corking as a tree’s smooth, green bark turning woody over time. Relax, this is very normal.
However, rot is present if the brown spots are deeper and mushy. The plant needs to have the rot surgically removed since it will spread and kill it. The more likely it is that you can rescue your plant, the earlier you catch rot. Three situations are possible here:
Dig down to healthy, vigorous tissue to treat a small area of rot, then let the plant repair by developing a scab.
You must remove the top, clear the rot from the top and bottom back to healthy, lively tissue, and then re-root the top if it has ringed the column halfway up. Replant the top in extremely fast-draining soil (half pumice or lava rock and half cactus mix) and set it in a warm, sunny location out of direct sunlight after allowing it to scab over for two to three weeks. If you have it, rooting hormone is also helpful for this. For re-rooting, cement or tile flooring work well because they carry heat to the plant; but, if you have a heat mat, you can use that as well. Set it to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. In this case, the top of the plant will produce a new plant, and the bottom plant will continue to develop and produce new heads. (You would also propagate the plant in this manner, typically in the late spring when it is actively growing.)
If the column’s base begins to deteriorate and spiral around it, you should discard the bottom and propagate the top. You may recall that we mentioned the plant’s latex sap is poisonous. Use gloves and avoid getting sap in your eyes while doing this because it is a serious skin and eye irritant.
Other typical issues with euphorbia planted indoors typically result from the plants being grown in chilly environments with little sunlight. Summertime underwatering of plants causes problems, but even a small amount of wintertime overwatering can be disastrous. Another typical error is to not water until the soil is completely saturated.
Euphorbia leucodendron and Euphorbia tirucalli ‘Sticks on Fire’ (also known as pencil cactus), two non-columnar euphorbias with lovely forking shapes that resemble aquatic flora almost as much as possible, may both be grown indoors. These require a lot of light to develop as houseplants and can even grow in bright, direct sunlight beside a window, just like the columnar euphorbia. (Not a good option for houses with pets due to the previously mentioned toxic sap!)
These incredible plants may, of course, also be cultivated outside in a temperate region like the Bay Area, even flourishing in the foggy streets of San Francisco. These euphorbia prefer a warm, protected location with plenty of sunlight and good drainage. They enjoy being next to radiant south- or west-facing walls or fences as well as slopes where water can drain off. Since they are summer growers, they will require more water during this dry period. However, if you want to fertilize, use an all-purpose fertilizer sprayed at 1/4 strength as they are typically not hungry. They frequently fail in clay soil, partial sunlight, or areas that receive an excessive amount of winter precipitation (in addition to our natural rainfall). Clay soil can benefit from mounding.
Cacti are they succulents?
What distinguishes a succulent from a cactus? The only plant that can survive in a hot south window, where the light shines through the glass intensified, is a cactus. Any plant that stores water in juicy leaves, stems, or roots to resist recurring droughts is considered a succulent. Some people accept non-fleshy desert plants while others exclude plants with flesh, such as epiphytic orchids (yuccas, puyas).
Cactus is merely a type of succulent that can hold moisture and is classified separately from other succulents (cacti is the plural form of cactus in Latin) (Cactaceae). On the other hand, not every succulent is a cactus. In addition to being close relatives of the pointsetta, geranium, lily, grape, amaryllis, crassula, daisy, and milkweed, succulents are members of approximately 40 botanical families that are distributed throughout the world.
The name “cactus” derives from the Greek word “kaktos,” which means “spiny plant.” The ancient Greeks used this word to describe a species that was actually an artichoke variety rather than a cactus. 2000 years later, Linnaeus, who classified plants, gave a family of plants with distinctive characteristics like thick stems that served as water reservoirs, prickly or hairy coverings, and few, if any, leaves the name Cactaceae.
Cacti are simple to spot. They rarely have leaves because they have to work so hard to stay alive. They have stems that have been altered into cylinders, pads, or joints that store water during dry spells. Skin thickness lowers evaporation. For defense against browsing animals, the majority of species have bristles or spines, but some lack them, and others have long hair or a woolly covering. Large and vibrant flowers are the norm. Fruit may be both edible and colorful.
Every cactus has leaves when it is still a seedling. Additionally, some plants briefly produce tiny leaves on their new growth each spring. The majority of cactus progressively lost their leaves as shifting climatic patterns transformed native environments into deserts, evaporating too much limited water into the dry air. They switched to storing the water that was available in their stems. To adapt the size of their evaporation surfaces to changing conditions, many may modify their shape. When moisture is abundant, ribs that resemble an accordion can extend; when there is a drought, they can contract.
The majority of succulents, such as aloes, hawthorias, crassulas, and echeveria, originated in environments with less harsh conditions than cactus, such as those with rainy seasons followed by protracted dry seasons. They all have leaves. Their leaves gradually grew fattened by water-storing tissues and covered in a waxy or horny substance that lessens evaporation from the surface to help them get through the dry spells.
From Canada, through Central America, the West Indies, and south to the chilly regions of Chile and Patagonia, the cactus (Cactaceae) family can be found (southern end of South America). The largest collection may be in Mexico, but there are also a large number in the western deserts of the United States and at higher elevations in the Cordilleras of Peru, Bolivia, and Argentina.
The majority of succulents are native to milder, semi-desert regions of the planet (Mexico, South Africa). Some (such as sedums and sempervivums) are native to cooler regions where they thrive on sunny, rocky ledges and slopes. Although there are many succulents around the world, not all succulents are desert plants. They can be found on mountains, in jungles, and next to bodies of water. Succulents can be found in semi-arid parts of North and South America, Asia, and Africa, but many also live in rain forests. Succulents can be found in the mountains where they can survive inclement weather, strong winds, and poor soil. Aeonium is a succulent native to Africa, the Canary and Madeira Islands; Agave is a succulent native to the Americas; Aloe is a succulent native to Africa, the Mediterranean, and Atlantic islands; Cotyledon is a succulent native to semi-arid regions of Africa; Crassula is a succulent native to mostly Africa; Dudleya is a succulent native to coastal California and Mexico; Faucaria is a succulent native to South Africa; Sempervivum: North Africa, Asia Minor, and Central and Southern Europe.