A genus of flowering plants in the spurge family is called Euphorbia (Euphorbiaceae). One of the biggest genera of flowering plants, Euphorbia contains approximately 2,000 different species, from diminutive annuals to enormous, long-lived perennial trees to deciduous shrubs. Some of the most recognizable euphorbias are poinsettia plants.
Plants native to Euphorbia are tough, hardy, and simple to cultivate in a variety of hardiness zones. Euphorbia plants are wonderful complements to flower beds and rock gardens because of their colorful leaves and distinctive flower structures called cyathiums. As long as they receive the proper amount of light, euphorbias thrive as both indoor and outdoor plants. The majority of them hibernate during the winter and bloom in the late spring and early summer.
Is euphorbia a perennial or a shrub?
Euphorbias are resilient, trouble-free perennial plants that are simple to grow. Euphorbias are well known for their distinctive flowers and brilliantly colored leaves, and they make wonderful additions to borders, rock gardens, meadows, and more.
Euphorbia—is it a stem?
The Euphorbia genus is home to a broad variety of attractive plants, ranging in size from tiny annuals to mature trees. The Poinsettia plant, which is always present throughout the Christmas season, is one of the most well-known but least exciting species.
Additional Euphorbia species, particularly those indigenous to Southern Africa and Madagascar, have inherited a number of morphological traits from common cacti found in North and South America, making it often difficult to determine to which genus they belong. Their stem structures have changed over time in order to store as much water as possible while limiting natural water loss due to their lack of leaves. Many species have become drought and heat tolerant.
Due to their wide range and peculiar genus, which includes more than 2000 species of distinctly individual flowering plants, euphorbias have long been a favorite among collectors and succulent gardeners. All of the species are prized for their aesthetically appealing forms and simple flower structures, while some are more prized than others.
One of the most often collected genera of succulents is this gorgeous group. The Euphorbia family intrigues the green-fingered among us, from eager beginners to the most experienced collectors, with species native to tropical and subtropical regions of Africa, The Americas, and many temperate regions worldwide. Within this enormous plant group, there is enough variety to keep your interest in gardening alive for many years. The Euphorbia genus contains a wide range of magnificent species, each of which has a distinctive appearance and is exceptionally lovely.
Euphorbia—is it a cactus?
The succulent members of the Euphorbia genus of plants are renowned for their graceful and architectural appearance.
Due to the fact that many of the common kinds are stem succulents, these plants are sometimes mistaken for cacti. However, they actually belong to a completely separate genus that has nearly 2000 species!
This article will discuss what makes Euphorbia so distinctive and remarkable, why it is not a cactus, how to care for Euphorbia, which species are some of the more well-known ones, and other topics.
Are euphorbia plants evergreens?
Low-growing Euphorbia myrsinites has fleshy, angular leaves on blue-gray stems that trail behind it. In rockeries and pots, it looks beautiful. In addition, it is a show-stopper when the springtime lime green blossoms bloom.
Dark green foliage on tall red stems of Euphorbia x martinii are gorgeous all year long, but it must be acknowledged that its lime and crimson blooms in the summer are possibly even more spectacular.
In a protected bed, border, or patio area, Euphorbia mellifera can serve as the center of attention. It is an exotic plant growing in a protected area where the aroma of honey permeates the air as the sun warms the white ribbed leaves and amber blossoms. This attractive type shouldn’t be planted in chilly, damp climates because it won’t likely thrive.
The giants of the family—growing up to 1.5 meters, or 5 feet, in the correct location—are the variants of Euphorbia characias subspecies “wulfenii” that produce statuesque plants. With gray plants or concrete, their blue-gray foliage appear stunning. Watch out for a variety of varieties. Golden blossoms adorn E. characias ‘Lambrook Gold’s foliage. The dark “eyes” of the blossoms of E. characias ‘Black Pearl,’ which is a shorter variety, are captivating. The shortest of them all is E. characias “Humpty Dumpty,” which is even shorter than E. characias “Portuguese Velvet.”
Various euphorbia amygdaloides species thrive under the shade of bushes and trees, as well as next to fences. Lime green spring blossoms brighten shaded corners while the glossy evergreen leaves catch the eye all year.
In order to reveal new branches from the center of a euphorbia plant, dead stems must be removed and trimmed. A sap that the stems “bleed” will irritate skin, so use caution. Buchanan, Sarah
Another piece of good news is that slugs and snails don’t appear to like them. Many types disperse seeds in the areas where they thrive. You will have to remove them, or you can grow new plants to replace the dead ones or give away.
How is Euphorbia recognized?
- The perennial herbaceous plant known as leafy spurge (Euphorbia esula) grows two to four feet tall.
- When damaged, stems, flowers, and leaves release a sap that is milky white.
Flowers
- Late in May, little, colorful, yellow-green bracts bloom.
- produces single, stemmed blooms from the leaf axils below that form umbrella-shaped flower clusters with seven to ten flowers at the top of each stalk.
- June till the end of the season for blooming.
Seeds
- A prominent seam runs down one side of this oval-elliptic shape, which is two to three millimeters long, pale to dark brown or yellow-brown, and has a fleshy appendage close to the stalk’s attachment.
- brown-mottled capsule with three lobes.
- High germination rate and explosive spread from a seed capsule up to 20 feet
Euphorbia—is it a succulent?
The plant genus Euphorbia (Euphorbia spp.) contains more than 2,000 species. Around 1,200 of them are succulents, some of which have odd shapes and broad, mushy leaves, while others remarkably resemble cactus and have spines. The genus’ plants are frequently referred to as spurge or euphorbia by growers.
With repeated additions and deletions of species and subgenera, Euphorbia is a somewhat ambiguous genus. The genus contains species that are annual, perennial, and biennial. There are species of herbaceous plants, woody shrubs, as well as deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs. The presence of a milky white sap in the plants is the defining trait among the species.
Most of the euphorbia species utilized for landscaping or as indoor plants are succulents with interesting forms and foliage, but a handful are also prized for their blooms. The poinsettia is one of the most well-known euphorbia species that is not a succulent.
The majority of euphorbias flower in the spring or summer and hibernate over the winter. Most species should be planted in the spring, when the risk of frost has gone, however houseplants can usually be started at any time. The growth rates of the species range from slowly to rather swiftly.
Euphorbia is poisonous to dogs, cats, and humans in all forms. Each plant species has a different amount of toxicity.
What does the word “euphorbia” mean?
Euphorbia is defined as any member of the vast genus (Euphorbia) of herbs, shrubs, and trees in the spurge family with milky juice, flowers without a calyx, and an involucre that encircles a cluster of many staminate flowers and a central pistillate bloom with three lobes.
A shrub, is Euphorbia milii?
The evergreen shrub Euphorbia milii, which is native to Madagascar, is commonly grown as an ornamental in both tropical and temperate climates. It has naturalized in disturbed regions close to agricultural areas and dry thickets after escaping from farming. It can grow and develop dense, impenetrable thickets even under cultivation. Despite being designated as an invasive species in Anguilla and the Global Compendium of Weeds, E. milii has no mention of any ecological or financial effects.
There are a few key differences which I will break down:
Cacti are only indigenous to the New World, with the exception of the Rhipsalis baccifera. There are no cacti in Europe, Russia, Australia, nor in Africa or Asia (except for that one species of Rhipsalis). On the other hand, euphorbia are native to many regions of the world, although those from Africa and India are the most cactus-like.
Both cacti and euphorbias have prickles, however the prickles on each species are unique. All cacti have areoles, which are structures that serve as the source of the spines, which are modified leaves. The most common thorns on euphorbias are modified stems that are typically seen in pairs. Areoles do not exist in euphorbias.
Cacti and succulent Euphorbias both retain water for dry spells, but latex, a hazardous sap, is present in all Euphorbias. It is most likely a Euphorbia if you cut open a succulent and it weeps this white fluid.
Cacti and Euphorbias both produce flowers, however the blossoms are typically extremely dissimilar. Euphorbia blooms are often subtle, whereas cactus blossoms are frequently spectacularly colorful and striking. Flowers from euphorbia are frequently a light greenish-yellow tint. However, some Euphorbias, such as Euphorbia milii, have vivid flowers (Crown of Thorns).
So there you have it—in a nutshell, the similarities and differences between cacti and euphorbias. Next time you see a spiny succulent, you’ll be able to identify it as a cactus, a Euphorbia, or something else by taking a closer look.
Does euphorbia grow indoors?
Have a space in your home that receives a lot of light and begs for a plant? With the right care and attention, columnar euphorbia, which are intricate, sculptural succulents, will thrive inside. Continue reading for information on growing euphorbia as indoor plants as well as other fascinating facts about this beautiful plant. So come choose your favorite euphorbia at Flora Grubb Gardens, our store in San Francisco!
Let’s first address the biggest issue in the room: euphorbia are not cactus!
Despite having a similar appearance, cactus and columnar euphorbia are separate plants. You may observe the cactus’ rigid, upright trunk and arms if you look at a Saguaro. It grows in the desert and has spikes to protect itself from predators. Then take a look at a candelabra tree, which is a kind of euphorbia and has arms that are spiky for defense. In the desert, candelabra trees can also be found. What makes a difference, then? Contrary to popular belief, there are no cacti outside of the “New World.” Surely Africa has cacti, right? True, there are no cacti in Africa.
Understanding convergent evolution, which is described as “the process by which creatures that are not closely related independently evolve identical features as a result of needing to adapt to comparable habitats or ecological niches,” is necessary to reconcile this finding. In summary, because they were compelled to evolve in the same manner and under comparable circumstances, cactus and euphorbia are almost identical. Because this is an effective method for storing water, they are columnar. Spikes are used to protect that water. Despite having a similar appearance, they are totally unrelated despite having diverged over vast distances.
How do we tell the difference, then? The key differentiator is the flowers. Cactus blossoms are enormous, delicate, and frequently vividly colored. They are frequently pollinated by birds or bats. Fly pollination is common for euphorbia blooms, which are tiny, often green, and somewhat unimpressive. Whereas at first glance the spikes appear to be similar, closer examination reveals that euphorbia has thorns while cactus has spines (a modified leaf) (a modified stem). The majority of euphorbia have a toxic latex sap to aid in their defense, which is another distinct feature.
Columnar Euphorbia thrive well indoors when planted in a cactus mix that drains quickly. Here are some tips for taking care of them at home:
Euphorbias are warm-blooded plants, therefore south or west-facing windows inside—where the plant receives four or more hours of direct sunlight daily—are ideal, though they can also grow in extremely intense indirect light. If placed within 18 inches of a window, they could burn because their skin is more sensitive than cactus. To avoid this, arrange them so that they are angled toward the window. Make sure the plant has adequate drainage and is kept as warm as you can if you are growing it in bright indirect light.
Since these plants grow throughout the summer, water should be progressively increased through late spring and into the season when they can experience dryness without becoming completely parched. This indicates that the soil does not feel damp or chalky or cracked throughout the entire container. During this time, don’t leave them to sit about completely dry; shriveling is a sign that they haven’t received enough water. Although fertilizer is typically not necessary, you can use an all-purpose fertilizer in the summer at 1/4 strength.
During the fall, water should be gradually reduced. Euphorbia naturally receive relatively little winter precipitation. They should become completely dry between waterings over the winter. Make sure to let your euphorbia stand in a saucer of water until it has completely absorbed the water because it can be difficult to rehydrate a completely dry plant (as it is like a dry sponge, where water will just run off). Until there is standing water in the saucer that isn’t being absorbed, keep adding water and letting the plant sucking it out. The surplus water can then be emptied out of the saucer or removed by placing a towel, sponge, or turkey baster within the saucer to absorb it. Never leave columnar euphorbia submerged for longer than 12 hours.
Brown spots are the most typical problem with these columnar euphorbia. They may be corking if they are light brown and hard like a scab, which is the normal process of a plant aging. Consider corking as a tree’s smooth, green bark turning woody over time. Relax, this is very normal.
However, rot is present if the brown spots are deeper and mushy. The plant needs to have the rot surgically removed since it will spread and kill it. The more likely it is that you can rescue your plant, the earlier you catch rot. Three situations are possible here:
Dig down to healthy, vigorous tissue to treat a small area of rot, then let the plant repair by developing a scab.
You must remove the top, clear the rot from the top and bottom back to healthy, lively tissue, and then re-root the top if it has ringed the column halfway up. Replant the top in extremely fast-draining soil (half pumice or lava rock and half cactus mix) and set it in a warm, sunny location out of direct sunlight after allowing it to scab over for two to three weeks. If you have it, rooting hormone is also helpful for this. For re-rooting, cement or tile flooring work well because they carry heat to the plant; but, if you have a heat mat, you can use that as well. Set it to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. In this case, the top of the plant will produce a new plant, and the bottom plant will continue to develop and produce new heads. (You would also propagate the plant in this manner, typically in the late spring when it is actively growing.)
If the column’s base begins to deteriorate and spiral around it, you should discard the bottom and propagate the top. You may recall that we mentioned the plant’s latex sap is poisonous. Use gloves and avoid getting sap in your eyes while doing this because it is a serious skin and eye irritant.
Other typical issues with euphorbia planted indoors typically result from the plants being grown in chilly environments with little sunlight. Summertime underwatering of plants causes problems, but even a small amount of wintertime overwatering can be disastrous. Another typical error is to not water until the soil is completely saturated.
Euphorbia leucodendron and Euphorbia tirucalli ‘Sticks on Fire’ (also known as pencil cactus), two non-columnar euphorbias with lovely forking shapes that resemble aquatic flora almost as much as possible, may both be grown indoors. These require a lot of light to develop as houseplants and can even grow in bright, direct sunlight beside a window, just like the columnar euphorbia. (Not a good option for houses with pets due to the previously mentioned toxic sap!)
These incredible plants may, of course, also be cultivated outside in a temperate region like the Bay Area, even flourishing in the foggy streets of San Francisco. These euphorbia prefer a warm, protected location with plenty of sunlight and good drainage. They enjoy being next to radiant south- or west-facing walls or fences as well as slopes where water can drain off. Since they are summer growers, they will require more water during this dry period. However, if you want to fertilize, use an all-purpose fertilizer sprayed at 1/4 strength as they are typically not hungry. They frequently fail in clay soil, partial sunlight, or areas that receive an excessive amount of winter precipitation (in addition to our natural rainfall). Clay soil can benefit from mounding.