To gather the energy to produce those enormous flowers, peonies require full sun. Only a few blossoms bending toward the sun are disappointing because peonies only bloom once a year. Pick a location that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight each day. This won’t be available on the north side of your house. The east or south side of your home will have the most light if you are utilizing peonies as a foundation plant.
Prepare the Soil
Peonies require well-drained soil. A healthy peony will not grow in either sand or sticky clay, but adding compost to the soil will treat both problems. Mix it in 50/50 with the native soil. You should give your transplanted peony a boost to reduce shock and promote adaptation to the new habitat rather than making a planting hole that is so enriched and fluffy that the roots never wish to expand beyond it.
Dig Up the Peony
Don’t cut corners when digging out the rootball you will need to transplant a peony. The rootstock is the foundation of a peony’s health, so you should try to conserve as much as you can while minimizing any harm that could serve as a vector for pests or diseases.
When you begin digging, measure at least 18 inches from the crown. When you start to feel the entire plant start to lift, stop digging straight down and take a moment to pry around the rootball. Avoid lifting the plant by the stems to avoid breaking it. Wash part of the soil from the roots gently if the rootball is too heavy to pull from its hole.
Identify the Eyes
The depth of peony planting is a crucial factor that will affect future blooming for decades. Locate the eyes on the peony rootball to calculate the optimal planting depth. One of those obscure plant words, but you can find it if you consider of the eyes as buds and search for pinkish nubs at the base of the crown. These eye buds will bloom the following year. They won’t ever rise to the surface and develop if you bury them too deeply.
Plant the Peony
Place the eyeballs no deeper than 2 inches into the earth, close to the surface. Even in colder climates, this is accurate. Fear not, as the icy winters won’t harm these dormant eye buds.
Hand-fill your amended dirt into the planted hole. Instead of using gardening equipment, use your skills to gently compact the dirt and make sure there are no air pockets without hurting the roots.
Water the soil well without drowning it. If your weather forecaster doesn’t indicate a true drought, you shouldn’t need to water again. It is an encouragement for peonies to decay to go into their dormant stage and spend the winter in a damp bed.
Look for emerging reddish-purple stems in the spring to confirm that your peony has adapted to its new environment.
Is it simple to transplant peonies?
If you’re remodeling a planting border, that’s another incentive to be transplanting peonies. Peonies may need to be lifted and moved if your garden is being renovated. Or you could just wish to divide and grow more peonies so you can add them to your yard or give them to family and friends. When peonies are planted too tightly together, the clumps can get crowded as they age and may need to be pulled and replanted.
Peony transplantation is generally a task that doesn’t need to be done for 10 to 15 years. September is the ideal month for peony transplants. Trim leafy stems down to 2 to 3 inches above the ground. Under the peony clump, dig with a sharp shovel. About a foot away from the stems, start digging. Try to cut as few roots as you can while digging around and beneath plants.
Lift the peony clump from the hole after loosening the soil. Put it over a tarp. Shake the peony plant gently to allow soil to drift away from the roots. Section off or divide the roots of the peonies. There should be three to five eyeballs, or growth points, in each division. The areas on the roots known as eyes are where stems and leaves are produced.
Use a sharp knife to cut out any mushy or unhealthy areas of the peony roots as you remove the soil from them. Before planting, let the root parts dry naturally and develop a callus or hard coating. After planting, the callus helps avoid root rot. Fungicide application to peony roots also lessens the likelihood of rot.
With the exception of the Southern and Southwestern regions, where afternoon shade is preferable, pick a planting location that receives full sun (six to eight hours per day). Make the planting holes big enough to accommodate the roots and divisions of peonies. In cold climates, plant the eyeballs 2 inches below the soil’s surface; in warm climates, 1 inch. For each peony that has been transplanted in a chilly area, add some loose winter mulch. The layer should be 4 to 6 inches thick in order to prevent frost heave. Early in the spring, before new growth starts, remove the mulch.
Don’t count on peonies to bloom the following spring after transplantation. The second year after planting, you might get a few blooms, but it’s the third and fourth years that flower numbers should return.
When can a peony be moved?
The optimum time to transplant peonies is in September, when they have finished growing for the summer and are beginning to hibernate. However, you may also dig out the entire root ball in the spring and plant it before the plants begin to sprout new growth for the year. Peonies will probably be too stressed out to survive if disturbed at any other time of the year.
How should a peony be dug out and moved?
Pick the right season of the year. Peony plants that have already been established should be moved in the fall, at least six weeks before the ground freezes. As a result, the plant has more time to recover before hibernating for the winter. The best months to transplant a peony are September or October in many parts of North America.
- Reduce the stems. Trim the peony stems to just above the soil line if it hasn’t already died back for the winter. This will make it simpler to determine the actual length of the root system. It is best to carefully dispose of the clippings because peonies are prone to fungal illnesses.
- Pull the peony up. Dig carefully all around the plant. To protect the root system, keep your distance of 12 to 18 inches (30 to 46 cm) from the edge of the stems. Once the root ball can be taken out, keep digging. The ability of the peony to recover may be compromised if the roots are broken when being pulled out of the ground by a person.
- Cut the peony in half. Cut the root system into pieces using a heavy-duty knife or your shovel. (It will be simpler to work if you rinse any extra soil from the root ball.) There should be three to five eyes on each component. The growing shoots for the following year are these eyes.
- Pick a suitable place before transplanting. Peonies prefer soil that drains well and full sun. Peonies should be spaced 24 to 36 inches (61 to 91 cm) apart. Peonies and shrubs or other perennials that might get bigger over time should be spaced apart sufficiently.
- Root divisions should be replanted. Transplanting peony root divisions as soon as feasible is advised. Prepare a hole that can hold the root ball. Place the eyes no more than 2 inches (5 cm) below the surface of the earth. Peonies produce fewer blooms when planted too deeply. Water after compacting the dirt tightly around the root ball.
- The transplanted peony needs mulch. To keep the newly transplanted flowers safe during the winter, spread a thick layer of mulch over them. Before the spring growth season, remove the mulch.
If the flowers appear a little scarce the first spring after relocating established peonies, don’t be concerned. It can take a peony three to four years after transplantation to become well-established and begin to blossom profusely.
Can peony be divided and moved?
Peonies can be divided or transplanted whenever the plant is dormant. In the early spring, if robust growth hasn’t yet taken hold, they can be separated. Even if leaves haven’t started to form on branches that have emerged above the soil, doing so won’t hurt the plant. Keep the fresh divisions of peony moist after transplanting them in the spring to help the plants establish themselves before the summer heat.
Peonies can be moved in the summer.
Late in fall, I want to relocate some peonies in my yard. When would be the ideal time to move them, and how would you suggest going about it?
Peonies can typically be left in the garden unattended for several years. They thrive in full sunlight and well-drained soil, which also improves their performance. Although September would be the ideal time to transfer your peony, you should be able to do so now as long as you get to it quickly. Before winter, the plants require some time to adapt.
If necessary, you can reposition them at different periods. Because of impending construction, I’ve been successful shifting peonies in the spring, summer, and even in early November. When transplanting in the spring, summer, or very late fall, it is crucial to dig a sizable root ball and replant right away with the least amount of disturbance to the root ball as possible.
Now is the time to transplant, so trim back the foliage and prepare to lift the root ball by making an incision around the peony with a flat, sharp spade. At home, my peony’s leaves are already brown and inactive. Starting a few inches away from the foliage at the base of the plant, angle the cut under the peony’s roots. A healthy, thriving clump may benefit from a slightly larger root ball, whilst a less developed plant could get by with a smaller root ball. A distance of 2 to 4 inches away from the foliage should be sufficient.
Use the spade to carefully lift the root ball up after cutting all the way around the plant. You might have made the root ball too large if the soil around the edges starts to collapse. A strong root system and a healthy plant should emerge from the ground quickly. The root ball could disintegrate if your garden has sandy soil. Add mulch and thoroughly water the fresh transplant.
Gently shake the clusters of peonies to remove any loose soil from the roots before dividing them to produce more peonies. The ideal tool for cutting clumps into parts is a sharp knife. Each division should have a healthy-sized root system and three to five eyes (buds). While smaller divisions will function, flowering plants won’t develop as quickly.
Place the eyes 1 to 2 inches below the surface of the earth in a planting hole that is sufficiently large to accommodate the roots. After that, add 1 to 2 inches of mulch to the plants. As the plants begin to grow in the spring, don’t forget to draw back some of the mulch.
Do peonies require direct sun?
- Keep plants neat by deadheading and prune as needed (herbaceous only).
- When peonies become congested and produce fewer blooms, divide the plants.
- When the blossoms feel like soft marshmallows, cut the stems for bouquets. Water should contain Miracle-Gro for Fresh Cut Flowers.
When the peonies blossom, you can finally start to feel the arrival of summer. Around Memorial Day, when spring bulb flowers are starting to fade and summer blooms are beginning to emerge, these stunning perennials bloom profusely. Peonies are resistant to deer and rabbits, which is useful for gardeners who frequently experience issues with animals eating their plants. Peonies are frequently seen blooming despite years of neglect if you drive through old cemeteries or abandoned farmsteads. That is because to how simple peony are to grow!
How to Choose Peonies
Peonies come in four different varieties. They are forest peonies, tree peonies, herbaceous peonies, and intersectional peonies, in the order of blooming time. Herbaceous peonies, which thrive in zones 3–7, and tree peonies, which flourish in zones 3–9, are the two most popular varieties. Herbaceous plants often reach heights of two to three feet and spreads of two to four feet. With some types reaching heights of 7 feet, tree peony are more closely related to tiny shrubs. The type of peony you plant will depend on where you live and the style you’re going for because all peonies require similar maintenance. The focus of this paper will be on tree and herbaceous peony.
When to Plant Peonies
Fall is the ideal season to plant peonies. This is often when peonies purchased from a catalog will be delivered. It’s okay to plant peonies when you see them flowering and for sale in containers in the spring.
Where to Plant Peonies
Peonies require at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight every day, though in zones 8 and 9, some shade from the sweltering afternoon sun is beneficial. Additionally, picking a location with sufficient air circulation is crucial to avoiding fungal illnesses.
How to Plant Peonies
In somewhat damp, well-drained soil, peonies thrive. Dig a hole, take the plant from the pot, and plant container-grown herbaceous peonies (the kind you buy in pots) so that the top of the root ball is level with the earth (any deeper and the peonies will not bloom). Fill up the area surrounding the plant by combining the discarded soil with an equal amount of Miracle-Gro Garden Soil for Flowers.
Before planting bare root herbaceous peonies, give them a brief dip in a basin of water to rehydrate them. Create a planting hole that is big enough to fit the roots, mix the soil as previously mentioned, and place a mound of the blended soil in the middle of the planting hole. Place the roots atop the mound and let them fan out and descend. Using the remaining blended soil, fill in the remaining portion of the hole, making sure that the “No more than 1 to 2 inches of soil should be present around the plant’s eyes (or growth buds) in order for it to bloom.
Deeper planting is required for tree peony. Unless they are grafted, peonies should be planted in the same soil combination as above, 2 to 4 inches deep at the crown (where the roots meet the stem). Check the label to see if the plant has been grafted, and then plant it such that the “The plant’s graft union, where the grafted top and rootstock are united, is located 4 to 6 inches below the soil line.
How to Stake Peonies
Peony stems are prone to toppling over after it rains, and the blossoms can become big and heavy. For herbaceous peonies, the best approach is to cover each plant in a peony cage in the spring, before the leaves begin to sprout (picture metal supports with rings for the flowers to grow up through). This is far more effective than attempting to hold each flower stalk separately, and it also looks nicer than wrapping the entire plant in string and cinching it in like a belt.
One stake can be used to stake tree peonies. Place the stake next to the stem in the ground, and then use a piece of twine to loosely secure the plant to the stake.
How to Water Peonies
When planting, give everything plenty of water. When the spring foliage begins to emerge and the flower buds start to show, give the plants another drink. Although peonies do not have a thirst, they will benefit from watering during dry spells for a year following the first planting.
How to Feed Peonies
Your peony will benefit from a powerful combination of care that includes excellent soil and the ideal plant food. Give peonies the nutrition they require by feeding them Miracle-Gro Shake ‘n Feed Rose & Bloom Plant Food in addition to the soil improvements indicated above for stunning color and more flowers than unfed plants. Peonies should be fed twice a year: the first time, right after they emerge in the spring (when the new shoots are 2 to 3 inches tall but before the flower buds are pea-sized), and the second time, in the middle of the growing season (about three months after the first feeding), to help them develop sturdy roots before the arrival of winter. Make sure you adhere to label instructions.
How to Help Prevent Problems with Peonies
Although mostly fuss-free, peonies occasionally experience fungal issues. Browning and failure to open flower buds are symptoms of botrytis. Brown patches on leaves are a symptom of some fungus illnesses. Infected blooms and leaves should be simply pruned off and disposed of (do not compost) in order to control these problems. Additionally, keep the plants neat, remove old foliage at the end of the season, and deadhead spent blooms. Peony blooms occasionally draw ants, but they won’t hurt the plants, so you can ignore them. (Contrary to popular belief, peonies do not require ants to blossom.)
How to Prune Peonies
Cut back each flower stalk on herbaceous peonies once all of the blooms have faded to just above a leaf, low enough so that the stem doesn’t protrude above the rest of the leaves. Unruly tree peony can be trimmed either in the spring or the fall (right before plants go dormant). However, any stems you trim back in the fall will not blossom the following spring (as you will be cutting off the flower buds). After blossoming in the spring, you can prune. Anytime you choose to prune, be careful not to take more than one-third of the plant with you.
How to Divide Peonies
It is ideal to leave tree peony alone (undivided) so they can flourish for many generations in the garden. If the clumps have become too large or the flowering has slowed, herbaceous peonies can be divided. To divide herbaceous peonies, dig up the entire clump and hose it off so that you can see the various roots and eyes (or buds) of the plant. Leave as least one large root and three to four eyes per clump after cutting the plant apart with clean, sharp pruners. Replant, adhering to the bare root peony planting directions above. The plants might or might not flower the first year after dividing, so keep that in mind.
How to Cut Peonies for Bouquets
Timing is crucial. Buds should feel roughly as firm as a soft marshmallow when squeezed, which is known as the “soft marshmallow stage.” Examining the bud’s coloration is another method for determining when to cut. The majority of the bud’s exterior should remain green, but you should be able to make out approximately half an inch of the flower’s vibrant petals. Although cutting the flowers at this point lessens the possibility of bringing ants inside with them, it is still advisable to inspect the flowers before bringing them inside. Plants should open up when stems are placed in a vase of water. For longer-lasting blooms, change the water every few days and apply Miracle-Gro for Fresh Cut Flowers (vs. water only).
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