How To Root A Peony

Before resetting, most roots benefit from a trim. To prevent congestion and encourage new growth, trim roots to lengths of approximately eight inches.

The peony family is diverse. hybrids have some “roots that may be separated from their rhizome and planted to produce new eyes are known as adventitious roots. After two or three years of growth, these root cuttings can be spread out in rows at a depth of two inches and lifted in the fall.

Knives, scissors, and spades used to cut rhizomes, roots, and foliage should all be sterilized. Fungi and viruses can be killed by a 10 percent or 70 percent solution of rubbing alcohol and water.

Utilize a dipping solution of a “Bordeaux mix, an alternative to fungicide dust, is a mixture of copper sulfate and hydrated lime. Both call for the wearing of thick gardening or rubber gloves.

On fresh plants, don’t compact the soil too firmly. You run the risk of breaking or pushing eyeballs deeper than two inches. When in doubt, overfill the hole and place your eyes as close to the surface as possible.

If you cut the stem sufficiently deep, you can use cuttings to spread soft-stemmed perennials like peonies. Peony stems emerge from “eyes that appear from rhizomes just below the soil’s surface. The most dependable methods of propagating these perennials are by rhizome cuttings and seedling growth. Unlike plants developed from seeds, rhizome cuttings typically blossom one to two seasons after planting and always give rise to a plant that is identical to its parent. For flowers in the spring, take cuttings in the fall.

Fill planting holes with a bushel or two of adjusted soil by mixing equal parts garden soil, peat moss, compost, and manure. For every bushel of filler, mix a small amount of bone meal, superphosphate, or another low-nitrogen fertilizer. For each, create a hole that is one foot wide and two feet deep “To determine how many you will have, divide or plant additional plants. Unused holes can always be filled with dirt. On either side, provide each plant about three feet of room.

• If you cut the stem sufficiently deep, you can use cuttings to spread soft-stemmed perennials like peonies.

If peony roots dry out, the plant will be set back and may not bloom the following season, so pick a day when the soil is damp rather than dry to start. In the fall, after removing the summer mulch and trimming back the dead foliage, dig peonies. Lift the entire root ball by making a deep cut underneath the roots with a spade or garden fork all the way around. Once the ball has been raised, use a hand cultivator or trowel to remove as much dirt as you can. If you are excavating more than one peony, focus on one plant at a time.

Remove any remaining dirt from the roots, fleshy root, and rhizome with care. On the top part of the rhizomes, look for the tiny eyeballs. Avoid breaking any buds at any costs. These stem bases serve as the foundation for fresh peony growth, and once broken, they cannot regrow.

• If peony roots dry out, the plant will be set back and may not bloom the following season, so pick a day when the soil is damp rather than dry to start.
• Lift the entire root ball by making a deep cut underneath the roots with a spade or garden fork all the way around.

Use a sharp knife to cut each rhizome into numerous pieces. Each component needs a set of roots and three to five eyes. Apply an anti-fungal powder, which is readily available at most garden centers, to each portion of the rhizome. If the peony you are dividing is particularly huge or old, use a spray bottle to keep the roots moist as you cut the rhizome.

Trim older or damaged roots on divisions and discard any pieces that are rotted or discolored. Eliminate soggy roots; they can contain nematodes or root rot. Spread roots while suspending the rhizome over the hole and amending the soil in the holes. When the hole is filled, position the rhizome so that the eyes are only a few inches below the surface. More than two inches of eye burying will probably prevent blooming. In southern growth zones, plants should be placed no deeper than 1.5 inches. Water the new plant thoroughly once the hole has been filled.

• Use a sharp knife to cut each rhizome into numerous pieces.
• Spread roots while suspending the rhizome over the hole and amending the soil in the holes.

Most Frequently Asked Questions

Peony stems can be multiplied by cuttings if the stem is cut sufficiently deep.

To lift the entire root ball, use a spade or garden fork all the way around.

Within a season or two of planting, peonies blossom, and each plant is identical to the parent.

Yes, cuttings can be used to reproduce soft-stemmed perennials like peonies as long as the stem is cut sufficiently deep.

Yes, peonies can be multiplied by cuttings if the stem is cut sufficiently deep.

Can you root peonies in water?

No, the fragments in water won’t grow roots; they will instead perish. For herbaceous peonies, the tuberous roots are the only part I am aware of that can grow from root divisions. I believe that all tree peonies are grafted or rooted cuttings. But they don’t simply have roots in the winter; they also have woody stems all year.

How is a peony plant rooted?

Herbaceous peonies need to be severely pruned back to the ground in the fall. Pruning is unnecessary for tree peony. In the fall, all that is required is the removal of the faded seed heads. In the autumn, resist the urge to remove the withered leaves; instead, let it fall off naturally. Tree peony should not be severely pruned because they are sometimes grafted onto herbaceous peonies.

Try to avoid walking on the herbaceous types’ newly emerging buds when weeding borders.

Peonies occasionally develop suckers at the plant’s base. David Hurrion discusses what to do with them in this passage:

How to propagate peonies

Herbaceous peonies can be multiplied in the fall through division. Lift the plant with a garden fork after trimming back the wilted foliage. Cut off pieces of the crown with a knife after removing as much of the garden soil as you can. There should be plenty of root in each part and at least three buds. Replant as soon as possible in the garden.

Try not to split tree peonies. Alternatively, you might be able to attempt sowing seed or stacking a flexible stem.

Growing peonies: problem solving

Ants are drawn to the peony buds. It’s common to witness ants swarming around the buds. They won’t harm the plant, so don’t be concerned.

Peony wilt is by far the most prevalent issue. The stems decay as a result of this botrytis. Planting peonies too closely together is best avoided. Remove any leaves with dark spots on them to help stop the fungus from spreading. To prevent reinfection in spring, remove all the foliage before trimming back herbaceous plants in the fall.

In this Gardeners’ World video clip, Carol Klein provides a practical guide on identifying and treating peony wilt as well as advice on how to clean secateurs to prevent reinfection:

How are peonies grown from their roots?

What’s required for peony plants to prosper? These perennials require little maintenance.

• They can survive a lifetime and thrive in USDA zones 2 to 8.
• A must-have is well-drained soil.
• A full day of sunshine is ideal, but a half-day is also acceptable. A prolonged bloom season may benefit from some shade.
• The best time to grow peonies is in the fall, when you can plant them bare root.
• Just an inch or two of earth is placed over the eyes before roots are planted (buds).
• Peonies in pots can be moved in the spring or fall.
• Early in the spring, fertilize.
• After bloom, deadhead the wasted blooms.

In the first two years following planting, peonies develop a strong root system. The first year, they frequently bloom. The size of the plant and blossom both increase the next year. They mature and start to produce a profusion of flowers by their third spring. You may never need to divide your peonies because you can frequently enjoy your peony plants in the same location for decades (unless you want additional plants to grow or share).

In the fall, plant peonies from bare roots. When planted between late August and early November, they will grow more feeder roots more quickly. We have planted in various months of the year (bare root or from pots). I’ve tried planting some in December and January, but they won’t develop much root growth in the first few months. Instead, they will lay in the ground, waiting for the ideal moment to grow. If the chance presents itself, I take chances when planting. I don’t believe I’ve lost any plants because of the time of year I planted them; perhaps slower root development the first year. Sometimes planting a root during the “wrong time of year” is preferable to caring for it in a container. In my experience, peony plants with adequate roots grow and enlarge in the third year, regardless of when they were planted.

Peony plants in pots (containers) can be moved in the spring or the fall. Additionally, bare root peonies can be potted up in the fall or early winter and planted in the spring. Store potted peonies slightly moist in a garage or shed when temperatures fall below 10 degrees Fahrenheit for extended periods of time to protect them from severe freezing/thawing/freezing.

• Peonies adore the sun, and for the optimum growth and bloom, they need at least a half day of it (full sun is ideal). A little bit of shadow is acceptable and can help your peonies bloom with more vibrant color; just make sure they get at least a half day of direct sunlight. (Too much shade will result in little to no peony flower and foliage).
• The optimum place for peony plants to flourish is in the ground, although some gardeners are growing one or two in sizable patio pots. For optimal results, use a large container of 10 gallons or more due to the peony’s relatively massive roots. Make sure it has good drainage, and don’t forget to water it more frequently than a peony that was planted in the ground. Large raised beds are also a good choice for peonies.
• Peonies can grow in a variety of soil conditions and prefer well-drained clay soil. Although you can improve your soil, it is frequently unnecessary. Our farm’s clay soil is well-drained and supports the growth of our peonies. You can adjust your soil if you’d like to increase the organic matter and nutrients.
• Dig a hole that is roughly 15 by 15 inches for the planting site, then fill it with the spaded soil. In order for the root to sit just below or at ground level, only the necessary amount of dirt should be removed.
• With the “eyes” (buds) facing upward, place the peony root at any angle and downward. One to two inches of soil are deposited on top of the “eyes” of the roots, which are positioned close to the surface of the ground (buds). Be careful not to bury peony roots too far. Imagine doing this by placing your bare-root peony “just below ground level” or at ground level with just a few inches of soil mounding over the root.
• Gardeners claim success with planting the peony root near ground level with just a touch of soil (about one half inch) over the eyes in warmer climates (The South, California), where peonies can be grown.
• Itoh Intersectional peonies have very enormous roots, and some of their “eyes” are located on a woody stem. To completely enclose the eyes, you might position these peony roots at an angle. Compared to other herbaceous peonies, itoh peonies can be planted a little bit deeper.
• Immediately after planting your peony root, water it. Make sure to keep giving fresh peony plants water every week or so until the Fall rains take over.
• Check the peony root carefully; if it has sunk too far, pick it up and add more dirt beneath it. For optimal results, make sure the soil is only one to two inches deep. Peonies that are planted too deeply may only produce foliage and no flowers.
• When you plant bare root peonies in the fall, they will develop new feeder roots. The roots buried in the ground won’t be harmed by the winter’s frigid temperatures (garden). Peonies enjoy chilly winters.
• A very large container with good drainage is necessary when planting peony in pots or containers. Make sure that the soil is only one to two inches thick around the eyes. Water the potted peonies and keep them moist, but allow a period of near-dryness between waterings. Protect potted peony from freezing temperatures in the winter. Roots of planted or potted peony plants are not harmed by frost; however, potted peonies may be affected by persistent arctic blasts or deep freezing.
• When you first plant or transplant your new peony plants, give them plenty of water. Deeply water a peony, then wait a few days before watering it again. During dry conditions, watering first-year peony roots/plants every two weeks should be sufficient. The roots’ establishment will be aided by the wetness.
• You might not need to water your peony again until you experience dry weather in the spring or summer until the autumn and winter rains start.
• Peony plants are quite drought tolerant after they are a few years old, though they do benefit from a good watering every few weeks during the hot summers. Peonies do not require frequent watering after they are established.
• Early in the spring, we apply 1/4 cup of fertilizer (10-20-20) to the drip line of our mature peonies. Following blooming, you can fertilize your peony plants. While some gardeners fertilize their peonies yearly, many do not. For the best outcomes with your soil, you might wish to experiment.
• Use a slow release fertilizer when fertilizing potted peonies because other fertilizers will burn the leaves. In the early spring, right before plants bloom, we fertilize.
• After flowering, remove flower/seed pods. You can cut the stems of your peonies to any shape you like.
• Leave seed pods on the stems until they burst open in the late summer if you wish to allow them to mature. The seed can be sown right away in the ground or on potting flats and kept moist until the arrival of the fall rains. Some seeds will grow the following spring, while others will do so the following year.
• In the late fall, trim peony stems all the way to the ground. To keep the garden clean, remove the stems and leaves. Peony stems and leaves should not be composted.
• Northwest regions don’t need to be mulched. Mulch is sometimes used by gardeners in regions with particularly harsh winters; however, if you do this, make sure to remove the mulch in the spring; otherwise, your peony will be “planted” too deeply.

Check for the following signs if your peony start to lose their vitality over time:

• The root may have been buried too deeply as a result of seasonal additions of mulch or bark dust (without springtime clearance). In our northwest environment, peonies don’t require protection because they enjoy the chilly winters.
• Trees and plants in the landscape may offer an abundance of shade.
• It’s possible that tree roots grew through the peony roots, crowding them.
• too much nitrogen
• They might also have lost their vigor, like some individuals, and require reviving. By digging up, dividing, and replanting a division with three to five eyes in a different location that gets good sun and drainage, you can revitalize your peony. They’ll recover quickly.

The winners of Gold Medal and Award of Landscape Merit peonies from the American Peony Society (APS) are featured on our peony descriptions. The American Peony Society has accorded commendable distinction to the flowers and/or growth environment of these peony.

Peonies that have earned the Award of Landscape Merit (ALM) demonstrate exceptional decorative value, overall landscape look throughout the growing season, and dependable performance across North America. The APS will assess numerous other peony types deserving of the title in the years to come. The ALM award is still in its infancy.

Court of Honor for the peony “Ave Maria” at the 2013 APS floral exhibit; Court of Honor for the peony “Coral Supreme” at the 2012 APS floral exhibit; and we were honored to receive Best in Show – Grand Champion awards for the peony “Bob” at the 2011 APS floral exhibit are just a few of our Brooks Gardens’ award-winning peonies. In 2018, “Lavon” won Grand Champion, and “Raspberry Charm” won Court of Honor.