Typically, a Mexican petunia only needs one annual pruning in late winter or early spring to remove any damaged, weak, or unwelcome stems back to the plant’s root system. During the flowering season, trimming spent flower stalks helps keep the garden looking tidy. Every few years, in the spring, trim Mexican petunia clumps back to a few inches above the ground to revitalize them.
The spread of this plant can be controlled with specific pruning methods. Cut off any spent Mexican petunia blooms before they set seed and pluck away any stems that have fallen to the ground and become rooted in the soil.
How much should Mexican petunias be trimmed back?
Trim the stems of your Mexican petunias to a height of about 2 inches from the ground if they were damaged by a frost or if you want thicker plants.
How are Mexican petunias cut?
Since they produce seeds and grow rapidly, Mexican petunias (Ruellia brittoniana) are regarded as invasive species in some regions. Some experts, including those at the University of Florida Nassau County Extension, do not advise pruning Mexican petunias since it promotes additional flowers. However, you can certainly prune them if you’d like to promote fuller plants that bloom more and you have them under control (for example, they’re not close to your neighbor’s yard). Simply let Mexican petunias die back in the fall and then sprout in the spring if you choose.
Cut off any Mexican petunias that are sick, dead, or damaged. Simply use a pair of hand clippers to trim them off at the ground, then discard.
Wait until the plant starts to die in the late fall from a heavy frost. If needed, Mexican petunias can be pruned now.
- Since they produce seeds and grow rapidly, Mexican petunias (Ruellia brittoniana) are regarded as invasive species in some regions.
- If needed, Mexican petunias can be pruned now.
Cut them off at the ground. Use hand clippers, or pruning shears if you have a lot, to trim your hair. Get rid of the cuttings to prevent attracting insects and tiny animals that could spend the winter in your garden bed.
What are Mexican petunias used for in the winter?
- Mexican petunias are perennial plants, however even though they flower in the winter, they prefer to lay dormant, making them relatively simple to overwinter.
- If you have it in a pot, you may easily winterize it by chopping off the branches and leaves.
- After pruning, put the pot somewhere with little to no light. They will sometimes go dormant; do not water during this time. Although it may seem like they are dying, they will return throughout the following growing season.
- Early in the spring, before the risk of frost, set out the pot. With regular care, Mexican petunia will begin to develop regularly in a few weeks.
Poor lighting
The first thing to do when you see petunias are lacking blossoms is to determine how much light they are receiving. If there are petunia plants without flowers, check to see if they are receiving direct sunlight at different times of the day. Petunias require full sun for the best possible bloom display. Although a petunia may not bloom if it receives less than six hours of direct sunlight each day, it may do so when it receives mild shade for a portion of the day.
Petunia plants in containers that aren’t blooming should be moved to a sunny spot. By pruning or cutting nearby plants that may be shading them, non-blooming petunias that are planted in the ground might receive more sunlight. You might need to replant the petunia plant with no flowers if you planted it in a shaded area that can’t be improved.
Wrong fertilizer
Petunias could not be receiving enough water or fertilizer if the lighting is ideal and they aren’t blooming. Although petunias may tolerate some drought, moist soil will result in a more luxuriant show. Petunias that were planted in the ground should have any excess water shaken off since moist buds can decay before blossoming.
Try this solution if you haven’t been feeding your petunia plant if it hasn’t been producing flowers. Liquid fertilizer is frequently applied to a lot of nursery-grown plants, but it only stays in the soil for a short time before being washed out by watering. The reason the petunias have lush foliage but no blooms may be that they were treated with a high nitrogen plant food.
Switch to phosphorus-rich fertilizers, like ones marked “bloom buster.” Another excellent source of phosphorus is bone meal. The middle value in the three-digit fertilizer ratio mentioned on the box is phosphorus. Pick a product with the label 10/30/10. If you want your petunias to put on one last show before the summer is out, a balanced fertilizer might work.
Do Mexican petunias ever reappear?
A: I have a roughly 4-year-old Mexican petunia known as a Ruellia. All of the stems died back in 2013 as a result of the freeze. I removed them all at ground level, and the plant quickly recovered and produced lovely flowers.
Persimmons can thrive here, however because of the intense lighting, the fruit may get sunburned.
The plant appears to have seen very little dieback this winter. Should I remove every stem at ground level or just the ones that have been harmed by frost? Will it bloom from the current stems, or solely from “new wood”?
A: Mexican petunia is categorized as a herbaceous perennial, which means that if it gets too cold, it freezes to the ground and then sprouts new growth from the base. Since it blooms in the summer, the flowers appear on young growth. Both fresh growth at the bottom and new growth from older wood will bear flowers.
Two options are available. It can be cut back to the ground once again to simulate a frozen back. It will develop from the ground up and bloom similarly to how it did in 2014. That is the simple method.
Keep it at this height and lower anything that is weak or dead to the ground as your backup plan. The remaining stems would then be pruned back to the desired branching height. Shearing or cutting it back will make it grow thicker above the sheared area and blossom.
If you prefer a taller plant, use the second technique. Use the first approach if you need to keep things compact.
Do not forget to fertilize it right away with an all-purpose fertilizer for growing flowers, such as a fertilizer for roses, fruit trees, tomatoes, or something comparable.
A: I raised one avocado outside last year from its pit. I put it in a pot and carried it inside when the weather started to become colder. The older leaves are starting to dry out and turn brown. Since bringing it inside, I fertilized it once. Every other day I lightly water it because the leaves are starting to curl up from not getting enough water.
A: The primary cause of leaves falling from an avocado brought indoors is a change in the duration or intensity of the light. The process of moving it from soil to a container might also induce leaf drop. A irrigation issue could be the reason for leaf fall. Insect pests like mites are a fourth potential.
Plants raised outside produce a distinct kind of leaf than those raised indoors. Sun leaves, which are leaves that are grown outdoors, fall off as the light intensity changes. A shade leaf is a new growth that the plant produces that is thinner, bigger, and more numerous.
Leaves may fall off if the root system is damaged. It’s referred to as transplant shock. Additionally, a change in watering schedule could result in leaf drop. If there are mites on your indoor plants, it’s likely that they were spread to the avocado because they are prone to mite problems.
Now what? Ensure that the avocado receives as much light as you can. Ideally, a window facing south should be used. For it to remain healthy and avoid growing spindly, you must provide it with several hours of sunlight.
Until water is coming out the bottom of the container, moisten the soil inside. Wait to water again until you see a significant shift in the container’s weight. Using a pencil or a soil moisture meter is another way to determine the amount of moisture in the soil.
See how easily a pencil descends by pressing it into the ground. In dry dirt as opposed to moist earth, a pencil is more challenging to push. After removing the pencil, you can feel the end to gauge its moisture level. Utilizing a soil moisture meter, which you can get at any nursery or garden center, is a third option.
Mites are a frequent issue with avocados. You can check the plant for mites using any of two approaches. First, press a withered leaf firmly against the white paper’s surface. Take the piece of paper in your hand and carefully examine it in a bright area.
You can observe tiny mites the size of a pencil dot crawling across the surface if you have good vision or are using a magnifying glass. If you softly drag your fingertips across the paper’s surface as well, the mites will leave a red stain.
To suffocate mites, spray the entire plant with a horticultural oil. Oils and soap sprays both effectively repel active mites.
A: During the fall, I’ve noticed tiny little snails clambering up my red brick planter. Many of those shells are scattered over my yard and pots. My roses never previously had powdery mildew illness, but they do now. I believe the snails are to blame for my lawn’s thinning. Older mulberries in my yard provide me with some shade. I emailed you some images of my backyard.
A: Based on the images and your description, I believe that the shade is a contributing factor in a number of the issues you’re experiencing. Plants and soil keep wet longer in areas of increased shadow.
Snails and slugs prefer prolonged wetness. The likelihood of developing powdery mildew and other illnesses rises with increased shade. Lawns narrow and finally collapse as a result of more shade.
If you prune some of the trees’ lower limbs, things will be better. More light will enter your property as a result of limb removal, which will also boost the roses, lessen disease issues, thicken the lawn, and lessen snail issues.
Fescue and ryegrass, two cool-season lawn grasses, require at least five hours a day of direct sunlight or filtered sunlight, with no more than 50% of the lawn being shaded. Lawns and floral plants will suffer if they are shaded more than this.
Lawns that are shaded cannot endure any type of traffic. In the more shady regions, the lawn will start to dwindle and the ground will become barren.
In the shade, flowering plants like roses produce fewer and of inferior quality blooms. The shade is ideal for powdery mildew. Water splashes are also enjoyed by powdery mildew. Powdery mildew will spread from rose to rose if there is overhead irrigation that splashes on the foliage and they are shaded.
Snails are challenging to manage. Trapping and baiting are the standard methods of pest management. Put moist newspapers or cardboard between the plants to catch snails. Snails and slugs enjoy gatherings under damp paper or cardboard when the sun rises.
To dispose of them, gather them up from the ground or the underside of the cardboard and place them in a plastic bag. You can start to reduce their population if you do this frequently, like once a week.
Baits for snails and slugs are also effective. According to the label, they are normally distributed about the plants on a regular basis. These can be bought online or at the majority of nurseries and garden retailers.
A: I just got a big bag of California-grown Fuyu persimmons that I grew myself. The Fuyu persimmon tree—will it flourish here?
A: Persimmons will grow in this climate almost universally. The variety known as Hachiya is one that I wouldn’t advise growing here, but Fuyu, Giant Fuyu, Coffee Cake, and the majority of the others will if they are planted correctly in enriched soil and aren’t a part of a rock mulch-covered desert landscape.
The fruit is of outstanding quality, however because of our intense lighting, it may become sunburned.
They should be surface-mulched with wood mulch, fertilized once a year, pruned similarly to the majority of other fruit trees, and watered like any other landscaping plant.
From Cuttings
You can increase the number of plants in your yard, for instance, by taking cuttings in the spring.
Cut a healthy-looking stem four to six inches from the end, just below a node, with a clean, sharp blade. Remove the bloom and any leaves that are close to the stem’s base.
Perlite and peat moss should be prepared in a clean four-inch pot and moistened. With a pencil, dig a two-inch-deep hole in the potting soil.
Place the cutting into the hole you produced in the potting soil after dipping the cut end of it in a powdered rooting hormone.
Keep your potted cuttings moist and in bright, indirect light. You can transplant them outside once the roots have taken.
Division
To divide this plant, aerate the surrounding soil and then excavate the desired clump.
Lift the clump out, then use a shovel to cut the plant’s crown into many pieces.
Put your transplants into holes that are twice as broad and the same depth as the root balls of your clumps. In the holes, distribute the roots widely.
When the roots are well-established, keep watering them well for many weeks after covering them with earth and watering them well.