Consider when your hydrangea blooms to see if it grows on old wood. These shrubs typically start blooming in the early summer and stop by midsummer, however isolated blooms may continue into the fall. Late summer or early fall, when the days grow shorter and the temperature drops, these shrubs begin to create the bloom buds for the following year. Pruning should be done just as the flowers start to fade to limit the chance of eliminating these buds. The sooner the shrub recovers after bloom, the more and bigger flowers it will produce the next season.
1. Old blossoms should be taken out to tidy up.
Gardeners can remove any wayward or straggly canes at the soil level and prune wasted blooms just below the flower head to keep their plants looking clean.
2. Eliminate the oldest canes to increase vigor.
A hydrangea may produce lesser blooms as it ages and becomes woody. The shrub will remain healthy and continue to produce big, many flowers if a few of the oldest canes along the soil line are routinely removed. The same technique, which involves removing the tallest canes, can prevent a shrub from becoming too tall.
Watch a video on pruning bigleaf hydrangeas
Almost everyone is mesmerized by bigleaf hydrangeas’ mophead blossoms (Hydrangea macrophylla and cvs., Zones 49). And it appears that queries regarding pruning these flowering bushes are common among gardeners. Because they are shrubs, it is frequently assumed that they require pruning. Some gardeners believe that pruning their hydrangea will encourage it to bloom. Both of these ideas are incorrect. Bigleaf hydrangeas don’t require any pruning, and if you prune them, you risk removing the bloom buds you were trying to receive by timing your cuts improperly.
The flower buds on bigleaf hydrangeas are often found on growth from the previous season, which is known as “old wood.” You will be removing the flower buds if you prune them before they bloom. Pruning too early doesn’t stop the entire display; rather, it stops a large chunk of it for many newer types that really generate buds on both old and new wood. However, if your hydrangea isn’t blooming, improper pruning is frequently to blame. Just after the bigleaf hydrangea has finished flowering is the ideal time to prune it. The shrub will have plenty of time before winter to establish new growth and harden off.
This video will provide you with the knowledge you need to timing your cuts properly and pinpoint where to make them on the shrub if you feel that pruning your bigleaf hydrangea is necessary. Only hand pruners and possibly a pair of loppers to reach deep into the hydrangea will be required of you. Wearing safety eyewear is also advised. While trying to gaze down into the shrub, it is quite easy to poke your eye on a stem, even if you don’t think they are cool. A poke in the eye is also never appropriate.
When ought hydrangeas to be pruned?
Depending on which group the plant belongs to, the timing and extent of pruning are determined:
Advice on Pruning for Group 1:
- As the days get shorter and the weather gets colder in the late summer and fall, buds for the following year’s blooms start to form.
- Typically, removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches is all that is required to preserve shape, size, and a healthy plant. Otherwise, gentle pruning ought to be practiced.
- In the summer, trimming should begin as soon as flowering ends, but no later than August 1. Pruning should not be done in the fall, winter, or spring because you risk removing fresh buds.
- Tip-pruning the branches in the spring as the leaves begin to appear can promote more numerous, smaller flower heads as opposed to fewer, larger flower heads.
Advice on Pruning for Group 2:
- On the growth of the current year, flower buds form.
- Early in the spring, as the leaves are starting to emerge, prune.
- Just above a node, prune branches back by half to a third.
- After that, prune any fragile or spindly branches.
- Minimal trimming encourages huge, strong bushes with many of tiny flower heads in H. arborescens. Hard pruning between 12 and 18 inches from the ground, or even all the way down, will result in fewer but larger flower heads that may flop if unsupported.
- For H. paniculata, remove the surrounding smaller wood while leaving the larger stems in order to establish a sturdy foundation.
Pruning may be connected to flower head size. Shoots will grow more vigorously and flower heads will be bigger and fewer with more rigorous trimming. Smaller but more numerous flower heads may result from less aggressive or tip pruning.
Consideration of hydrangeas’ mature size is the best piece of advise. Place them in a location where they won’t outgrow and won’t need a lot of pruning to keep them in check. Hydrangeas don’t need to be pruned precisely or often; as long as dead wood is removed, they will remain healthy and continue to develop and bloom.
How should hydrangeas be pruned properly?
In the late winter, early spring, or just above a big bud known as a heading cut, trim back stems. The flower heads of these plants have a conical form. I wait to prune these until late winter or spring because I advise leaving the dried, tan flower heads on the plant to add some winter beauty to your garden. Favorite panicle hydrangeas include:
- H. paniculata ‘Bulk’ PP16, 812, Quick Fire
- (H. paniculata ‘Limelight’)
- Berry White (H. paniculata ‘Renba’ PP28, 509) first editions
On aged wood, do bigleaf hydrangeas bloom?
Many gardeners, both novice and expert, are confused about how to prune hydrangeas. Determine which species are present in your garden before you even consider getting your trimming equipment. In New Hampshire, hydrangeas come in a variety of kinds, and each one has quite distinct growth patterns and pruning needs. Some plants only produce flowers on fresh growth, while others mostly produce flower buds on older wood. To learn when and how to prune your hydrangeas, refer to the short guide below.
The type of hydrangea that most gardeners are most familiar with is the bigleaf variety. Bigleaf hydrangeas, often known as mopheads or lacecaps, are distinguished by their glossy, dark green foliage and enormous, vibrant blooms. In New Hampshire, it might be difficult to get them to flower because they often grow on old wood. A plant may have luxuriant foliage but no blooming buds because of the cold winter temperatures and drying winds.
At the tops of stems on old wood from the previous year, flower buds are created. Although lower buds along the stem have the capacity to grow blooms as well, the hydrangea’s blossoming potential is decreased if those buds are died or damaged throughout the winter. Wait until new growth sprouts in the spring before pruning your bigleaf hydrangeas. Approximately 1/4 inch above the first group of live buds, prune the plant. A hint: the interior of living stems will be green, whereas the interior of dead stems will be brown. Cut completely dead stems flush with the base.
Consider replacing your bigleaf hydrangea with a “remontant (reblooming) variety if you have difficulties getting it to bloom consistently year after year. In recent years, a number of cultivars that blossom easily on fresh shoots have been introduced.
Bigleaf hydrangeas and mountain hydrangeas have a striking resemblance and are closely related. Compared to their relative, mountain hydrangeas have more delicate branching and less ostentatious blossoms. Because flowers only grow on old wood, wait to prune stems until the spring when new growth starts and you can identify which buds are still healthy.
Native to Eastern North America, smooth hydrangeas fit in well with most gardens in New Hampshire. They have mounded growth patterns and mid-summer blooms of white to pale pink flowers. Smooth hydrangeas, in contrast to bigleaf and mountain varieties, bloom on young wood and may withstand severe pruning. From late winter until early spring, you can remove dated flowers from the previous year. The flowers on old stems will bloom, but they will be modest. In the spring, trim stems all the way to the ground for bigger, more vigorous blossoms.
The panicle hydrangea is without a doubt the most popular variety planted in New Hampshire. It is extremely cold hardy and blooms consistently from season to season. It develops into a tall, low-branched little tree or broad shrub, with branches that frequently arc under the weight of its numerous, enormous conical blooms. Panicle hydrangeas should be clipped in late winter or early spring before the emergence of the leaves because they blossom on new growth. To enhance the general structure and habit of the plant, remove wasted blossoms and prune. Make cuts to the branch collar of stems or one quarter inch above living buds.
The Southeastern region of the United States is home to oakleaf hydrangeas. Despite the possibility of winter damage and flower bud loss in northern gardens, this shrub’s eye-catching foliage and exfoliating bark are sufficient reasons to cultivate it. Removing dead or broken branches should only be done in the spring because oakleaf hydrangeas also bloom on old wood. Oakleaf hydrangeas often don’t need a lot of pruning. After fresh growth has started, thin stems as necessary and shorten the plant’s height.
By making simple trimming mistakes, many well-intentioned gardeners lower the potential blooming of their hydrangeas. Fortunately, hydrangeas are actually pretty easy to maintain as long as you are aware of their growth patterns and adhere to these straightforward pruning instructions.
What kind of plant is a bigleaf hydrangea?
Bigleaf hydrangeas, also known as Hydrangea macrophylla, are the most popular variety of hydrangea. French hydrangea, garden hydrangea, and florist’s hydrangea are some more frequent names for this plant. Most likely, the hydrangeas at your neighborhood florist are bigleaf varieties.
Bigleaf hydrangeas come in three different varieties:
- Due to their huge, puffy bloom heads, mophead hydrangeas are the most recognizable and well-liked hydrangeas. They flourish in hardiness zone 6, and their blossoms can be purple, blue, or pink. Mophead hydrangea flower buds may not endure the winter since they are susceptible to the cold.
- With their flowers being the main distinction, lacecap and mophead hydrangeas are nearly identical to one another. They have little, fruitful flower buds in the middle, and the showy flowers surround the flower head’s margin. The main function of these gorgeous, sterile flowers is to entice bees and butterflies to the fertile buds in the middle. They flourish in hardiness zone 6, just like mophead hydrangeas do.
- The least frequent variety of bigleaf hydrangeas are mountain hydrangeas. Its scientific name is Hydrangea serrata, and while its flattened heads resemble those of lacecap hydrangeas, its flowers and leaves are much smaller. Mountain hydrangeas are a fantastic alternative for locations with late winter cold snaps because they have hardier buds and do well in hardiness zone 5.
True to its name, the bigleaf hydrangea’s trait that sets it apart from other hydrangea varieties is the size of its leaves. The leaves of bigleaf hydrangeas can get up to 4-6 long and 3-5 broad. The leaves have short stalks, are heart-shaped, thick, and lustrous.
Bigleaf hydrangeas like some shade, but not too much, as this can lead to fewer flowers. They prefer moist, well-drained soil, and their blooming seasons are in June and July. Given that bigleaf hydrangeas are drought-sensitive, it is crucial to consistently water them.
By adjusting the soil’s acidity, you can vary the color of your hydrangeas. Blue flowers can be grown on acidic soil with a pH of 5.5 or below. Pink flowers will grow on neutral or alkali soils with a pH of 6.5 or higher. Purple flowers or a hybrid of blue and pink flowers will grow in soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5.