How To Propagate Oakleaf Hydrangea

Cut two to four cuttings from the green stem tips of the unflowered stems using clean, sharp pruners.
The lower portion of the cutting should be leaf-free.
Rooting hormone should be applied to the cutting’s tip.
Put the cuttings in sterile, wet potting soil.

Is it possible to grow oakleaf hydrangeas in water?

Hydrangeas can be propagated by taking cuttings from the plants and allowing them to root in water, but this is difficult.

The main issue with cuttings from your oakleaf hydrangea plant and re-rooting them in water is that hydrangea roots do not thrive when submerged in water.

When planted immediately into the ground after rooting in water, hydrangea cuttings will quickly perish. Instead, they do best in moist soil with good drainage.

Can hydrangea cuttings be rooted in water?

Rooting hydrangeas is not too difficult. While some people have succeeded in rooting them in water, many others (like myself) have never been able to do so.

The image to the right, which Susan Park Cole forwarded to us, shows how hydrangeas can be rooted in water. On sometimes, roots appear when an arrangement is left in water for a prolonged period of time. But in my experience, this approach more frequently fails than succeeds.

How are oakleaf hydrangeas rooted in water?

Large oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia) are endemic to the southern US and grow on damp, acidic soil in partial shade. In contrast to the mophead flowers found on the majority of ornamental hydrangeas, the oakleaf hydrangea bears long panicles of flowers. Oakleaf hydrangeas have the unusual characteristic that additional plants, or suckers, sprout from the plant’s surrounding roots. These suckers can be cut off from the mother plant and moved to a pot or another area of the garden. Taking a cutting and rerooting it in sterile potting soil or another planting medium is another method for growing more oakleaf hydrangea plants.

Early in the spring, take a 6-inch clipping from a non-blooming stem that has a swelling bud on the end and two tiny leaves coming from the node beneath the new bud. Place right away in a water-filled container. No longer than a few seconds should the cut end of the cutting be exposed to air.

Large oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia) are endemic to the southern US and grow on damp, acidic soil in partial shade.
Oakleaf hydrangeas have the unusual characteristic that additional plants, or suckers, sprout from the plant’s surrounding roots. These suckers can be cut off from the mother plant and moved to a pot or another area of the garden.

Clean planting material should be prepared. Use fresh potting soil, sand, or a sterile potting combination created especially for the purpose of helping plants take root. Fertilizers shouldn’t be present in the potting mixture. Because it includes pathogens that will attack the new roots that grow on the oakleaf hydrangea cutting, avoid using garden soil or old potting soil. Fill the flower pot with potting soil, then wet the soil with water. Drain; leave.

With a sharp cutting instrument, trim the oakleaf hydrangea stem just below the leaf node that is beneath the node that is home to the two little leaves. Your cutting will be roughly 3–4 inches long as a result. At the leaf node that you cut underneath, pull off the buds or leaves in a downward motion. As a result, the rooting hormone will adhere to the place where new roots will eventually grow by slightly damaging the stem.

Clean planting material should be prepared.
Use fresh potting soil, sand, or a sterile potting combination created especially for the purpose of helping plants take root.

Dip the cut end of the stem in water, then cover it with powdered rooting hormone, covering the damaged leaf nodes where the leaves or buds had been removed.

With your finger, poke a hole in the planting media. The soil should be half way between the cut end of the oakleaf hydrangea stem cutting and the two little leaves you left on it. Insert the cutting into the hole. There should only be the top bud, two little leaves, and leaves above the soil line. Make sure the damaged nodes are covered by soil or located directly above the incision. Gently tuck the cut end inside the planting medium. Place the container in a warm (75–85°F) location and maintain a steady moisture level in the soil for 6–8 weeks or until the cutting begins to actively grow.

The soil should be half way between the cut end of the oakleaf hydrangea stem cutting and the two little leaves you left on it. Insert the cutting into the hole.

When placed in water, how long does it take hydrangea cuttings to root?

Take a 5- to 6-inch-long clipping off a limb of the hydrangea shrub. According to the majority of experts, the cutting will thrive if it is taken from a branch that did not bloom this year.
The bottom two leaf nodes’ lower leaves should be removed. A leaf emerges from the branch at the leaf node. At that time, the majority of roots will form.
Reduce the largest leaves’ size by around 50%.
Insert cuttings into damp vermiculite or sterile medium after dipping them in rooting hormone (this step is absolutely optional).
Well-watered pot should be allowed to drain. Make sure the ground is damp but not drenched. Plastic wrap the pot and the cuttings. Use stakes to try to prevent plastic from coming in contact with the foliage.

TIP: Position cuttings in a well-lit, shaded area. Never expose fresh cuts to the sun. They’ll be heated in the plastic.

Wait to water again until the soil’s surface feels dry. Cuttings will decay if they receive too much water.

In 2-3 weeks, depending on temperature (faster in warm weather) and humidity, cuttings should start to grow roots. Some cuttings take as little as a week to take root. When a cutting is pulled and the pull is resisted, it is rooted. Reminder: It might not be allowed to reproduce plants that have been trademarked or registered.

I adore this simple approach. If you don’t have a lot of hydrangeas, you are only able to root a small number of new plants at once.

When you gently bend a branch down, the area where it will contact the ground has roughly 5 to 6 inches of leaves removed from it. In this location, remove a small amount of bark from the branch’s underside. Ascertain that at least one leaf node will be below the surface.

Don’t remove the branch from the parent plant. Lower the branch into a small trench that is approximately 2 inches deep and generously top it with soil. Put a block or stone on the area that will be buried to ensure that it stays there. Additionally, this aids in keeping the moisture surrounding the branch. Keep it occasionally watered. When the branch from the mother plant develops roots, break it off and plant it in a pot or the garden.

Hydrangeas like humid, partially sunny weather. On the north and east sides of your house, they work well.

How is an Oakleaf Hydrangea split?

In USDA hardiness zones 5 to 9, oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia) are deciduous plants that survive the winter. They start to bloom in late spring and reach a mature height and width of 6 to 8 feet. Initially white, the blossoms progressively turn pink throughout the course of the summer until turning orange-red in the fall. Divide well-established shrubs while they are dormant in late winter or early spring in warm Mediterranean regions. The divisions could be distributed to friends and neighbors or planted elsewhere in the yard.

Before you divide the shrub, decide where you want to plant it so that you may immediately transplant the divisions. The shrub should be placed where it will get morning or evening sun with afternoon shade. Check the soil’s pH to make sure it is above 7 and alkaline.

With a dirt shovel, create a planting hole that is 2 feet in diameter and 1 feet deep for the hydrangea division. The soil from the hole should be broken up until it is loose and crumbly. If the pH is below 7, mix lime into the backfill soil to raise it.

Divide an 8- to 12-inch piece of stems and roots from the main bush using a sharp garden spade. To cleanly cut the roots, dig the spade into the root mass. Just outside the split clump’s root mass, insert a shovel into the ground. With the shovel, lift the split clump and set it on a sheet of plastic. To protect the soil and roots, pull the plastic sheeting up around the mass of roots. If the clump cannot be promptly replanted, pot it up in a container and keep it wet.

In the freshly prepared planting hole, place the clump with the plastic covering the root mass. Make sure it will rest at the same depth from which it grew previously. If additional soil is required to make the hole shallower, remove the clump from the hole and add it. At the bottom of the hole, tamp the soil down. Slide the plastic sheeting out from underneath the new hydrangea and insert it into the hole.

Around the roots of the hydrangea, uniformly press the backfill earth into the hole. When the bottom third of the hole is filled, gently tamp the earth down over the roots. Fill the hole up more. While backfilling, lightly tamp the ground. After the hole has been filled, water the new hydrangea to help the soil surrounding the roots stabilize.

At the edge of the transplant hole, create a 2- to 3-inch-high ring of earth around the new hydrangea. While keeping it 1 to 2 inches away from the stems, spread 3 inches of mulch over the earth around the hydrangea. For the first two years after planting, give it a weekly watering of once or twice.

When should Oakleaf Hydrangea be pruned?

When you say the word “hydrangea,” most people immediately picture the Hydrangea macrophylla mophead and lacecap varieties. These magnificent bushes are highly well-liked and frequently blossom in summer landscapes across the nation. The oakleaf species of hydrangea (H. quercifolia), a less popular variety with a distinctive appearance and texture, is a hydrangea. Oakleaf hydrangeas also produce enormous, spectacular flower clusters, much like the mopheads and lacecaps. However, that is about where the similarities between the oakleaf hydrangea and its relatives end.

The oakleaf hydrangea differs from the other members of the genus in a number of important ways.

Flowering behaviorOakleaf hydrangeas produce inflorescences, or long, cone-shaped clusters of flowers (flower heads consisting of a group or cluster of flowers arranged on a stem). The inflorescences are made up of both conspicuously fertile and ostentatious infertile blooms. The mophead hydrangeas, on the other hand, feature globe-shaped clusters of sizable florets. The flattened bloom heads of lacecap hydrangeas are flanked by larger male flowers and smaller female flowers.
Foliage

Oakleaf hydrangea foliage is big (4 to 12 long and wide, depending on the selection), lobed, and coarsely textured, in contrast to the leaves of H. macrophylla species, which tends to be moderately sized, oval or heart shaped, and smooth textured. The botanical name of this shrub, quercus folium, is derived from the Latin words quercus (oak) and folium, which describe the foliage as having a form resembling that of an oak leaf (leaf).

Origin The 23 identified species of hydrangea that make up the genus are primarily Asian in origin. The smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens) and oakleaf hydrangea are the only two exceptions that are indigenous to this nation. All of the states in the southeastern region of the United States, from North Carolina south to Florida and west to Louisiana, are home to the native oakleaf hydrangea.
Fall hues

The only plant in the genus that has any discernible fall leaves colors is the oakleaf hydrangea. The oakleaf hydrangea is still fully covered with gorgeous deep crimson to purple leaves in November and December, when the majority of other deciduous plants have lost their foliage. These leaves last well into the winter.

cultural prerequisites In general, all hydrangeas prefer moist, well-drained soil. The oakleaf species can endure drier soil and more sun than other species in the genus, albeit, once established.

A rounded, deciduous shrub with a mounding form from the ground up is an oakleaf hydrangea. Large clusters of blooms are supported by strong, sturdy stems above typically dark green on top and yellowish green underneath foliage. The stems have appealing tan or cinnamon colored bark that falls off in small pieces. This understory shrub is typically found growing in the wild beside streams, on forested hillsides, and in the shade of mixed hardwood trees. It is an ornamental plant that thrives in a natural or groomed woodland setting that is somewhat shaded, particularly with morning sun and afternoon shade. Some varieties are hardy to zone 5, and it is hardy from zones 6 through 9.

On the wood from the previous year, magnificent clusters of creamy white or pink flowers bloom, depending on the cultivar. While just a few varieties produce double flowers, the majority of them do. The flowers are produced in inflorescences that are 6 to 12 inches long and 3 to 5 inches broad, and they last for at least four to six weeks before turning tan or deep pink. Through the autumn, the blossoms provide interest to the plant by drying in situ.

The list that follows, while not exhaustive, describes a variety of oakleaf hydrangea choices, as well as their typical sizes and floral arrangements. While a few varieties can reach heights of 12 feet or more, the majority of cultivars are medium-sized, with an average height of 5 to 8 feet. There are several compact cultivars that grow to a height of 4 feet or less and with proportionately smaller leaf and flower clusters available for gardeners with tiny gardens.

12′ tall by 12′ wide is “Alice.” This is a wise choice for bigger gardens that have the space for a shrub of this size. The enormous white blossoms eventually turn tan in the late summer after maturing to rosy pink. The State Botanical Garden of Georgia’s gold medal award for 2000 went to “Alice.”
Alison is 8 to 10 feet tall. Despite being comparable to “Alice,” this cultivar is a touch wider and has inflorescences that are held more upright. By the end of the summer, the huge white bloom clusters have turned pink and are now tan.
Harmony is 10′ broad and tall. This variety has clusters of enormous, many, double, sterile blooms. Branches can bow under their weight. This cultivar, which is extraordinarily lovely but not frequently seen in nurseries, may be a challenge due to the flowers’ weight.
6′ tall by 6′ wide is “Amethyst.” Dr. Dirr created a small cultivar whose blossoms change from white to rose. As they become older, “Alice” and “Amethyst” both develop extremely deep pink inflorescences.
5 to 6′ tall by 5 to 6′ wide is the “Gatsby Gal.” This, along with the next two choices, are from Proven Winners’ 2016 release of the Gatsby series. Flowers on the shrub ‘Gatsby Gal’ are upright, giving the impression that they are larger than the shrub’s relatively small size.
Gatsby Moon is 6 to 8 feet tall and 6 to 8 feet wide. The inflorescences are composed of closely spaced, extremely full double flowers similar to those on “Harmony,” as previously mentioned. Instead of turning pink with age, the petals become white to green.
Gatsby Pink is 6 to 8 feet tall and 6 to 8 feet wide. The enormous, protracted flower heads quickly transition from white to a deep shade of pastel pink.
Queen of Hearts measures 6.5″ high by 9″ broad. This cultivar was created by the shrub breeding program of the U.S. National Arboretum through the hybridization of the cultivars “Snow Queen” and “Pee Wee,” the same cross that also gave rise to the cultivar “Ruby Slippers” that is detailed below. The blossoms start out white and gradually turn a rich pink hue.
6′ tall by 6′ wide is the “Snow Queen.” ‘Snow Queen’ can withstand brighter conditions and retains its single-flowered inflorescences more upright than other varieties. The 2012 Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit was given to it.
7′ tall by 7′ broad is “Snowflake.” This cultivar, like the others that won the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit in 2012, has a longer bloom season. It has double hose-in-hose flowers on very long (15 inch) spikes that stay on the plant for a very long time. The blossoms progressively turn pink as they deteriorate, then light tan.
Little Honey measures 4′ high by 5′ broad. The golden yellow spring foliage, a sport of “Pee Wee,” gradually darkens to chartreuse green in June and then becomes red in the fall. For optimal results, give it morning sun and afternoon shade. Compared to other oakleaf hydrangea species, the white blooms’ 5 to 6-inch long, cone-shaped inflorescences are diminutive.
‘Munchkin’

4.5′ broad by 3′ high. The shrub breeding program at the U.S. National Arboretum in McMinnville, Tennessee, created Munchkin. It is the perfect option for modest home landscapes because of its compact form and dense plant habit. The flowers start out white and progressively change to a medium pink color.

Pee Wee is usually 5 feet tall and 4 feet wide, but they can get bigger. Until quite late in the growing season, this upright, compact variety retains its deep burgundy and purple leaves before losing them. The leaves typically have 3 to 7 lobes and are on average 5 inches long. In the late summer, the flowers become tan.
“Ruby Slippers” are 3.5″ high and 5″ broad. This mounding, semi-dwarf cultivar was created by the shrub breeding program of the U.S. National Arboretum through the crossbreeding of the cultivars “Snow Queen” and “Pee Wee.” The flowers begin as white but quickly change to a delicate pink hue, which later in the summer intensifies to rosy red.
Sikes Dwarf is 2 to 4 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide. This compact collection works well in container gardens as well as smaller areas. The sterile florets in the flower clusters, which gradually turn light pink as they ripen, conceal the fertile blooms. ‘Sikes Dwarf’ has an asymmetrical spherical shape and an open plant habit.

The soil that Oakleaf hydrangea prefers has a pH of 5.06.5 and should be organic, fertile, well-drained, and slightly acidic. Once planted, it is drought hardy, though it does need water in extremely dry conditions. Effective drainage is crucial. Although the plant prefers moist soil, wet feet are intolerable.

Sunlight

In either complete or partial shade, this shrub can flourish. But it functions better when it receives at least a half-worth day’s of sunlight or more, which results in a better floral show, stronger stems, and more vibrant autumn foliage. Some varieties can tolerate a sunnier location. On the other hand, plants under heavy shadow will produce fewer blossoms but bigger leaves.

In general, Oakleaf Hydrangea trimming is little to nonexistent. Pruning should be done soon after the shrub flowers if it needs to be shaped or shrunk. In late summer, this shrub produces bloom buds for the following year. Or put another way, it grows on aged wood. Any other time of the year will result in the loss of the flowers for the following year when pruned.

Pests The only insects that occasionally harm this plant are spider mites and aphids. Deer will nonetheless munch on this plant, especially the sensitive, young spring foliage, so either use deer repellent or put up a physical barrier to protect it.

Propagation

Cuttings of the shrub’s stems can be used to multiply it. Layering is another method of plant propagation that can be used because the branches are low to the earth.

When used as a solitary specimen, a backdrop for smaller shrubs, bulbs, or perennials, a part of a mixed border, a deciduous hedge, or as part of a mass planting, oakleaf hydrangea is a multipurpose shrub that is bold yet graceful.

If there is a drawback to oakleaf hydrangeas, it is that a cautious gardener can find their enormous, rough-textured foliage intimidating. Rest certain that the foliage complements plants with smaller leaves extremely well. For instance, the contrast created by evergreens’ finer needles or scaly branches is appealing. Boxwoods’ smaller, more compact leaves and more formal round shape contrast nicely with the more relaxed shape of oakleaf hydrangeas. Oakleaf hydrangeas go nicely with taller ferns like ostrich or cinnamon ferns as well as shorter grass-like plants like liriope.

Easy-care Oakleaf hydrangea is particularly useful in the landscape since it provides year-round appeal. It has an immediate effect in the spring when its striking foliage first appears. Large, persistent clusters of creamy white or pink blooms stand out against the dark green leaves in the summer. Many cultivars develop to a medium pink or deep rose color over time. The oakleaf hydrangea especially shines in the fall with its deep, burgundy/purple foliage that lasts all the way through the winter. The pale brown or brownish dried flower heads provide more appeal. The tan bark’s exfoliation adds a new tactile dimension to the snowy scene in winter.