How To Propagate Nepeta

How to make cuttings of catmint

You should be able to generate quite a few effective catmint cuttings if you follow the straightforward instructions below.

• Take cuts that are 3–4 inches long.
• Remove every leaf but the top two to four from the cutting.
• In order to promote branching, pinch the tip.
• Place the end in a rooting medium after dipping it in rooting hormone. Although not necessary, rooting hormone will hasten the process.
• For a week to two weeks, keep the cuttings moist and watch them carefully.

Nepeta allows cuttings to be taken.

Nepeta can be multiplied via division in the spring or the fall. Alternately, take softwood cuttings in the early summer and propagate those.

You may return your order to us within 21 days if, for any reason, you are not satisfied.

We guarantee to replace the item or reimburse you in full for the purchase price. Along with your statutory rights, you also have this.

The costs of returning the package to us will not be reimbursed by Hayloft Plants.

Can catmint be grown from a cutting?

• ‘Walker’s Low’ plants are 30 inches tall and 36 inches wide, with lavender-blue flowers. As a side note, the name is not short because it derives from an Irish garden. It is actually almost as tall as the “Six Hills Giant.” Walker’s Low was chosen by the Perennial Plant Association as their Perennial of the Year for 2007.

Don’t restrict yourself to just these four options if you feel driven to hunt for catmint in your neighborhood garden centers. Numerous other top-notch cultivars are also readily available, including “Dropmore,” “Blue Wonder,” and “Junior Walker,” a scaled-down variety of “Walker’s Low” that stands 16 inches tall.

• Catmint tends to grow wider than tall, so give it lots of room.
• Even while catmint likes direct sunlight, it can also tolerate moderate afternoon shadow.
• Water new plants or transplants until they can survive on their own. Following that, established plants can withstand heat and drought.
• Never fertilize it again. Catmint prefers well-drained, somewhat fertile soil. In fact, a plant may flip over or split in half if the soil is excessively rich. In that case, trim the plant back to make it look neat. Compost added in the spring or fall will provide the plant the nutrients it needs to thrive.
• After the first blooming flush of the plants has finished, shear them back by a third or more. The plants will be more orderly, their size will be limited, and this will encourage a second rush of blossoms later in the summer. The plant will still bloom often and maintain its lovely appearance during the stifling summer months even without being sheared.
• Over the winter, keep any dead foliage in place to help protect the crown. Wait till the beginning of spring to trim it.
• Divide catmint every three to four years, preferably in the spring or early fall, to maintain it healthy. During the first growing season, until the plants take root, keep it well-watered.
• Catmint varieties can grow to be quite huge. Pinch the plant back in the spring after it has grown a few inches tall to encourage a bushier growth habit if you wish to limit the plant’s total size.
• Cut a vertical chunk off of an established clump of catmint in the spring to reproduce it. Make sure the division has a strong root system and a number of new shoots. Till the plant takes root, keep it well-watered.
• Cuttings can also be used to spread catmint. Before flower buds grow in the spring, clip healthy shoots at a length of three inches. The cuttings should be placed in a moist medium, such as sand or a peat-perlite mixture. Within two to three weeks, they should start to root.
• Catmint is typically unaffected by either pests or illnesses. The only issue that can occasionally arise is leaf spot. There is no consensus that the severity of this fungus illness justifies control measures.
• Experience has taught me that some cats are drawn to catmint. If you’re worried about this, cover newly planted or transplanted catmint with chicken wire to stop your cat from consuming it or rolling about in it.
• This plant attracts butterflies and bees like crazy. Additionally, hummingbirds adore it.
• You’ll adore this plant if your garden is plagued by four-legged animals other than cats. Deer, voles, and rabbits are deterred by the foliage’s minty aroma. THIS is a plant that pays for itself, at last!

Nepeta spreads, right?

Nepeta comes in several hundred different species, in addition to numerous other selections (cultivars) that have been chosen for better garden performance. However, I advise using caution when getting catmint plants for your yard. I strongly advise staying away from any Nepeta that is grown from seed, and only planting sterile hybrids. The catmints that are generated from seeds can spread quickly over the garden and smother nearby plants.

Over the years, I’ve experimented with a variety of Nepeta species and varieties in my gardens. And based on my personal experiences, I can heartily suggest two exceptional, sterile (produces no seeds), long-blooming kinds.

• Select Blue Nepeta is a low-growing, non-spreading plant with lovely lavender-blue flowers that I chose back in the early 1990s from a patch of plants I discovered in an office park landscape. Shear off the flower spikes just above the leaves in the early summer after the first flush of flowers has gone to encourage the plants to blossom later in the season.
• Walker’s Low Nepeta: This cultivar, which was not given its name for its size but rather after an English castle, features eye-catching deep blue flowers on tall flower spikes. ‘Walker’s Low’ blooms for several months from late spring to mid-summer and develops as a tidy, non-suckering, well-behaved plant. Stronger reblooming will result with deadheading, which involves shearing off the faded flower spikes just above the foliage.

Should Nepeta be deadheaded?

Deadheading is beneficial if done frequently during the growth season since it promotes perennials to continue blooming. Nepeta can be pruned back after flowering for a new growth spurt and further display of flowers.

Can you root catnip in water?

Cats love catnip, yet the attractive foliage is probably not what draws them in. However, gardeners prefer the lovely, heart-shaped leaves that are growing in an open mound approximately 3 feet (1 m) tall. Blue blooms are also produced all year long by catnip plants. As a result, catnip is a wonderfully decorative plant to have around. It’s simple to cultivate additional catnip from cuttings if you or your cat insists on having more plants than you already have.

In the world of perennials, catnip cutting propagation is as simple as it gets. Cuttings of catnip can be begun to root in either water or soil. Catnip is an excellent place to start if you’ve never attempted growing a plant from cuttings. Leaf-tip cuttings are a simple way to multiply it. Spring or early summer are the best times to prune off the tips of new growth. Make each cut on a slant slightly below a leaf node. When using the clippings as cuttings, keep them cool.

Catnip is a member of the mint family and will grow over your garden if you don’t cut it down. This is advantageous since you can propagate catnip cuttings using the stems you pruned back.

How is catnip multiplied?

Several methods can be used to spread catnip. Catnip can be propagated naturally through the sowing of seeds, as well as through stem cuttings and division.

Seeds

Purchase seed or collect from dried flower stalks on an existing plant to propagate via seed. Plant seeds in a moderately rich, well-draining loam in the late fall or early spring. Soil over them just a little. When they reach the appropriate height, space them 12 to 18 inches (30 to 46 cm) apart. If there is still a danger of frost in your area, seedlings can be started indoors and then moved outdoors.

Division

Of course, root division is the simplest technique of propagation if you already have catnip herb plants. Sharp shears or a hori hori can be used to cut through the plant to divide it once it has been dug out and any extra dirt has been shaken off. Replant the various areas, and presto! You have successfully grown new catnip plants.

Cuttings

Taking a cutting of fresh growth early in the growing season is the final way of catnip propagation. Plant the cutting in sterile soil and care for it until new growth occurs by keeping it moist and under filtered light. Before planting the cutting, give it a growth hormone dip to hasten its growth.

When can catmint be divided?

Increasing Catmint But all Nepeta cultivars take to division well, so you can divide them to create new plants. Find a part of the plant in the spring that has underdeveloped branches and a strong root system. Use a spade to cut it vertically. Even dividing the plant into smaller portions is an option if it is really large.

How does catnip get its start?

Both leaf-tip cuttings and seeds can be used to easily multiply catnip plants. To take a cutting, take a tiny piece of new growth early in the growing season and plant it. To improve the likelihood that the cutting will take root, add a rooting hormone. The cutting should then be planted in a new container with sterile potting soil.

How quickly does Nepeta expand?

In the fall or very early spring, sow seeds outside. Better stands result from planting in the fall. Under ideal circumstances, seeds germinate in five to ten days, but in colder soil, this time can increase to twenty days. Thin the plants to 18 inches apart when they are 2 to 5 inches tall. After 12 to 15 weeks, you can start picking leaves. If cats frequently visit your garden, use wire netting to protect young plants.

Will cats be drawn to Nepeta?

Nepetalactone, a substance found in catnip (Nepeta cataria), is attractive to many cats, including tigers and other wild cats. Cats generally respond by rolling, gnawing, or rubbing against the plant or the leaves. If they see that you have any catnip residue on your shoes, they might even go a bit wild.

While some cats become incredibly lively, others become tense, hostile, or drowsy. They might drool or purr. Only five to fifteen minutes pass between catnip reactions. Despite the possibility of a little stomach upset from consuming a big amount, catnip is “purr-fectly harmless and non-addictive.

It’s also typical if your cat exhibits no interest in catnip. Catnip sensitivity is inherited, and between one-third and fifty percent of cats are completely unaffected by the herb.

Can catmint be reduced in amount?

Catmint (Nepeta spp. and cvs., USDA Hardiness Zones 38) has a way of lifting my mood. This plant impresses me because it can stand out in even the most hostile circumstances, whether it’s along a cobbled walk in England or in the median planters that line Chicago boulevards. Over the course of several weeks in the summer, the beautiful lavender-blue blossoms appear to shine just as brilliantly in the garden as they do above a hard expanse of concrete and macadam. The easiest catmint delight for me, however, is seeing my cat Boo fall prey to its seductive charm.

Despite the fact that some varieties have been misused to the point of ubiquity, I have a lasting affection for catmint. And it was because of this affection that I wanted to try as many different kinds as I could in order to determine which ones were the greatest. It’s true that when catmints are mentioned, many gardening buddies scrunch up their faces. Now, while I freely acknowledge that I won’t mind if catmint and Knock Out roses (Rosa ‘Radrazz’, Zones 49) never see another planting, I’m not quite ready to give up on this wonderful collection of hardy perennials. This is particularly true of a few particular varieties that stand out for their durability, seemingly endless blooms, and attractive leaves.

Top performers

In terms of bloom time, general habit, disease resistance, and low maintenance requirements, these types were picked as the best.

The most well-liked plant in this genus is undoubtedly “Walker’s Low” (N. racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’, top photo), based on its popularity and the numerous prizes it has won. Walker’s Low is taller than one might anticipate at 30 inches. The name does not represent its size; rather, it relates to the garden in Ireland where it first appeared. One of the most magnificent floral displays ever is produced by luminous blue blossoms that are carried in upward-curving plumes up to 12 inches long. The attractive gray-green leaves are completely hidden by the flowers for several weeks when they are in full bloom in late April. Walker’s Low pairs beautifully with a range of perennials and is essential for softening sharp edges along patios and paths. In my garden, “Walker’s Low” and Japanese roof iris are a favorite combination (Iris tectorum, Zones 59). I adore the way the delicate, billowy catmint contrasts with the broad, spiky iris leaves, as well as the color echo of the lavender-blue blossoms.

The flower and foliage of “Sweet Dreams” (N. subsessilis ‘Sweet Dreams’) are a welcome change from those of other catmints. From early summer to late fall, charming pink blooms are arranged in generous clusters and tastefully complemented with burgundy bracts. By catmint standards, each trumpet-shaped blossom is 1 inch long, which is quite large. The lush green foliage will surprise you if you assume this is simply another catmint with gray-green leaves, especially when it turns colorful in the fall. Despite being a large plant, “Sweet Dreams” remains compact throughout summer. In contrast to other catmints, Japanese catmints (N. subsessilis and cvs.), such as “Sweet Dreams,” like wet soils and partial shade, though they are equally comfortable in full sun. However, deadheading is necessary to prevent “Sweet Dreams” from having a nightmare appearance after the first flush of blooms since the brown, spent flowers persist.

When great gardeners are honored with magnificent plants, it is lovely. Such a plant is called “Joanna Reed” (N. ‘Joanna Reed’), after the late Pennsylvania gardener who discovered it. One of the neatest catmints I’ve ever produced, and this quality secured a perfect score in our testing. It didn’t require deadheading because of its sturdy stems, which never flopped, and because new growth appeared swiftly to cover the wilting flower stems. I find it impossible to imagine “Joanna Reed” without blooms because of the constant display of huge violet-blue flowers that cover the wide-spreading, compact plants from spring into October. Many catmints boast about the attractiveness and unpalatability of their dusty green foliage.

Greek catmint (N. parnassica), according to a short internet search, is more popular in European gardens, but it’s still worthwhile to look for this rare beauty here. Greek catmint is robust and audacious. However, the stems of our test plants only grew to a maximum height and width of 4 feet. Stems up to 6 feet tall are possible. The tint of the fragrant leaves lies midway between green and gray-green. Beginning in early summer and continuing into early October, long spikes of tiny lavender blooms, each less than half an inch long, are densely populated. Greek catmint has the presence to dominate any garden and will cheerfully take all the sunlight you can throw at it.

I believe the catmint “Six Hills Giant” (N. “Six Hills Giant”) is the standard by which all other catmints should be measured. The word “giant” is used to indicate the massive plant size and the extravagant floral display. Long flower spikes attract attention starting in late spring. However, like many catmints, ‘Six Hills Giant’ may start to relax or even recline a few weeks into the flowering period. This was true in our testing. After the initial flower flush, don’t be afraid to bash it back to promote the growth of new, stronger stems. Although it may be difficult to consider giving up blossoms, there will be many more to come. For the ideal display, place “Six Hills Giant” next to virtually anything pink in the garden.

Select Blue (N. faassenii ‘Select Blue’), chosen for its blue flowers, is a superior addition to the group of long-blooming catmints. From midspring to midfall, I don’t think we experienced a day without flowers. The flowers are actually lavender with a darker calyx that gives them a swarthy appearance, despite claims that they are a darker blue than the straight species (N. faassenii). Late during the season, the low, mounded habit remained solid without shearing. For its tenacity and resistance to drought, the xeriscape specialists at High Country Gardens in New Mexico advise “Select Blue,” and we can vouch for its impressive performance in typical garden settings as well.

Getting down to the nitty-gritty of catmint

Catmints are tough, free-flowering perennials that typically like full sun and well-drained soils for growth. However, some are well-liked for xeriscaping because, once established, they can withstand drought. When lavenders are not hardy, they are often referred to as “poor man’s lavender (Lavandula spp. and cvs., Zones 59), which is an acceptable analogy. Here are some additional details concerning this category of plants that you should be aware of.

Catmints are incredibly floriferous from early spring to the end of the growing season. Their unique tubular, two-lipped blossoms identify them as belonging to the mint family. Even when the flowers have faded, colorful calyces still improve the floral arrangement.

Through slicing off a piece of an established clump with a spade, you can proliferate by spring division. There should be numerous young shoots and a sizable root system in each fresh division. Catmint cuttings will take root quickly if they are cut from healthy shoots before the flower buds appear. The cuttings should take several weeks to root if you place them in a moist medium like sand or a peat-perlite mixture.

An essential oil found in the leaves and stems causes cats to exhibit a range of behavioral reactions. Eating the leaves may have calming effects, while rubbing, licking, or biting them creates a momentary high. According to all accounts, cats are especially intoxicated by catmint, or catnip (N. cataria*). You unfortunately have limited options for preventing cats from mauling (and occasionally squashing) your plants. Although most plants will recover fast following an attack, barriers may be your only alternative.

Although Japanese catmints (N. subsessilis and cvs.) prefer moist soils and don’t mind partial shade, wet or soggy areas can be the death knell for most catmints. Catmints frequently appear on lists of deer-resistant plants because they are rarely troubled by disease or pests.

It’s simple to ignore the leaves when there are so many blooms to catch your attention. Many catmint species are known for their fuzzy, gray-green leaves, although some, like Siberian catmint (N. sibirica), have huge, green leaves instead. Finding it difficult to tell if something is catmint? Another distinguishing characteristic of the mint family is square stems.

High fertility merely promotes floppy behavior. Simply shear the older stems down to the young leaves coming from the crown when stems start to flop over and flower output begins to decline. Plants that have been sheared will recover in a few weeks and resume their natural appearance.

Catmint should only be pruned in the spring or once you are certain that the growing season has ended, as it can be ugly in the winter. Even late in the growing season, cutting it back stimulates it to resprout, and the new growth is cold-sensitive. Any potential winter damage is avoided by waiting until spring.