How To Propagate Euphorbia Lactea

Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing in the spring or summer. One of the stems should be severed at the point where it joins the branch using a sharp knife. After removing the sap with cold water, dip the cutting in powdered rooting hormone. To allow the cut callous to heal, let it dry for about a week.

Can cuttings of euphorbia be grown into new plants?

Euphorbias, also referred to as spurge, are perennial plants that are simple to grow. They might be landscape plants or indoor houseplants. The euphorbia genus includes small annual plants and enormous, long-lived trees. One of the largest genera of flowering plants, the genus has approximately 2,000 species. The Americas, Madagascar, and Africa are where the majority of the succulent species are found.

Seed Propagation

Although they may be grown from seed, euphorbias can be challenging to germinate. In equal parts coarse sand and commercial seed growing mix, sow seeds in the spring. Germination takes 2 to 6 months in cold weather, but can take place in 1 to 2 weeks in warm weather.

Stem Cuttings

For many species of euphorbias, cutting-based propagation is the simplest and fastest approach. It can also be used to trim an old plant back into shape. Use a clean, sharp knife to make the cuttings. If at all possible, branching species should be clipped at the branching point. Decapitate solitary plants like Euphorbia bupleurifolia or Euphorbia piscidermis to promote the growth of side shoots that may then be pulled off and planted.

Spring, when growth begins, is the ideal season to collect cuttings, but summer is also a good period. Cuttings should only be used in an emergency to save plants with root rot since they have little chance to take root when taken in the fall or winter.

After cutting, the latex must be entirely removed in a glass of water or by spritzing. Quickly following the flow, cold water and a brief contact with a candle or match ignite.

Large-leaved Euphorbias should have the leaves chopped off with a knife directly above the cut. Before planting, the cut surface should be allowed to dry for one or better, several days, for species without leaves. Leafy Madagascan plants just require a little period of drying. Root formation will be aided by applying a hormone rooting powder to the sliced surface. The same planting media used for seeding can be used.

Rooting may take longer than anticipated, but it can be hastened by employing a thermostat-controlled warming pad to raise the soil temperature to about 77 F (25 C). Avoid being in the sun directly. Unrooted cuttings that have dried up can occasionally be salvaged by soaking in water that is at room temperature until they swell back up and can be planted again.

Some euphorbias with side shoots that can be rooted grow as branches and do not take the conventional plant form. This group includes the Medusoid Euphorbias in addition to Euphorbia brevitorta, Euphorbia groenewaldii, Euphorbia tortirama, and other species. These demand for the so-called two-step cutting technique.

Leaf Cuttings

Euphorbia francoisii, Euphorbia cylindrifolia, Euphorbia pachypodioides, Euphorbia ankarensis, and Euphorbia millotii are a few of the Madagascan Euphorbias that have been successfully propagated from leaf cuttings. Rock wool cubes are set on coarse sand in a tray, and leaves are gently removed off the plants—not cut—and placed inside of them. The sand should have water covering its surface (putting the leaves directly into damp sand also works, although with greater losses). Fungicide and hormone rooting powder help the process. The desired outcome should be achieved using both light heat and a chilly position with a plastic cover to boost humidity. The plants are ready to be potted after 40 days because they are sufficiently matured.

Euphorbia can it grow in water?

A succulent euphorbia called Euphorbia trigona is grown for its ornamental stems. If it is rooted in water, it will rot and should not be. Take a stem cutting of this plant in late spring or early summer to propagate it.

When taking cuttings, keep your skin and eyes protected because the sap might irritate some people’s skin or eyes or perhaps create an allergic response. The health of the parent plant and the cutting depends on stopping the flow of milky sap. Spray water onto the parent’s wound after dipping the cutting end in water. To prevent infection, allow the cutting to “heal” (dry out) for a few days. Create a container with a peat moss base that has been wet, add perlite for enhanced drainage, and then top it with a layer of horticultural sand or vermiculite to avoid rot. Place the cutting in the potting mixture and keep it at room temperature in filtered light.

For around two months, keep the potting material just slightly damp. By that time, the cutting will have developed roots and new growth. The plant can be replanted in a succulent potting mix and cared for as an adult euphorbia.

How long does it take for cuttings of Euphorbia to take root?

When the right conditions are present, the majority of the evergreen euphorbia species will self-sow. Young seedlings can be pulled off the plant. Like other perennials, the non-evergreen varieties can be divided in the early spring or the early fall. These procedures can also be used to successfully develop evergreen and woody species from cuttings.

A cactus, is Euphorbia Lactea?

Mottled spurge, also known as Euphorbia lactea, is a tiny tree or shrub that looks like a cactus and is deciduous, prickly, and typically leafless. Although it may reach a height of 15 feet, it’s usually kept as a 1 to 2 foot houseplant. The plant has green branches with white lines running through them and prickly stems. It can occasionally develop in a crested (cristate) form. In the summer, little leaves do develop, but they fall off rapidly, leaving the plant leafless. The plant does not endure freezing and rarely flowers. In addition, the stems have four angles and paired black stem thorns. The plant will leak a poisonous, milky latex if it is injured.

Mottled spurge grows best in full sun to partial shade, well-drained soils. Although you can let soils dry up after each watering, it cannot tolerate moist soil. Water regularly in the summer to keep soils from completely drying out and less frequently in the winter. The plant is frost-intolerant but winter-hardy to zone 10. Potted plants can be grown year-round as indoor houseplants or overwintered indoors.

The plant has adapted to arid climates and can be found all over the world in tropical and subtropical locations. It has been reported to escape cultivation and grow into substantial thickets. It is commonly farmed in the West Indies, Florida, and other tropical places all over the world in addition to growing naturally in tropical Asia.

Plant diseases, pests, and other issues:

There are no known major insect or disease issues. There could be nematodes, mealybugs, and aphids. Look out for mites. Keep your distance from any harmful plant sap.

My Euphorbia Lactea is turning yellow; why is that?

False cactus sap is effective at warding off pests and diseases, despite being a hassle to maintain. Every plant, though, has flaws that you should be aware of.

Growing Problems

It’s possible for the base plant to develop stems surrounding the euphorbia if your E. lactea is grafted onto another plant. Feel free to leave it to develop if you like the unusual appearance. If not, simply cut the undesirable stems away.


Mealybugs are a typical nuisance that are constantly craving scrumptious sap. These scale insects are tiny and make nests out of cottony white material. The plant will become infested, turn yellow, wilt, and ultimately die.

Dab mealybugs with a q-tip dipped in diluted rubbing alcohol to get rid of them (70 percent or lower). Mealybugs are commonly treated with insecticidal soap, but this method is not advised for Euphorbia lactea since it may harm the plant.

Your mottled spurge may also develop spider mites. These incredibly tiny arachnids create tiny webs on plants. With a powerful water spray, remove them. Alternately, apply neem oil on the stem after thoroughly diluting it.


The appearance of powdery mildew is moldy and white, just as it sounds. Dragon bones is susceptible to it in conditions of poor airflow and humidity. It’s best to get rid of it quickly, like with any ailment. Wash your plant with a solution of baking soda and water to get rid of powdery mildew without harming it. For the ideal mildew treatment, mix one tablespoon of baking soda with a gallon of water.

Root rot is the most frequent danger to succulent-like plants. Although it typically begins in the roots, this illness can affect any area of your Euphorbia lactea. When a plant is persistently wet due to overwatering and/or poor drainage, rot sets in. Rotted areas will turn mushy and brownish-black.

You must act straight away if you detect even the slightest hint of decay. If allowed to spread, the plant as a whole could quickly perish.

Take your plant out of its container so you may inspect it from top to bottom. Remove any rotten sections by cutting them off gently. Leave the plant out of the soil for a few days to dry after it has been rot-free. Plant your Dragon Bones again in fresh soil after the wounds have healed and scabbed over.

Should euphorbia be reduced in size?

Euphorbias are a lovely addition to any garden since they add color in the spring and summer and have attractively shaped foliage. They also have vivid, colorful bracts.

Some evergreen euphorbias just require their faded blooms to be trimmed back once they have finished flowering. Others have biennial stems that must be trimmed to the ground after flowering, like several Euphorbia charcacia kinds. Fall is the time to trim down deciduous plants to the ground.

Wear gloves when handling euphorbias because they all have a thick, milky sap that can irritate the skin and eyes.

Euphorbia Care:

Some plants need to be divided or propagated every two to three years, preferably in the early fall or spring, even if they have a short lifespan.

After flowering is complete, many benefit from being severely pruned, at least by one-third. This prevents any free-seeders from taking over and promotes the growth of new, fresh foliage.

Trimming euphorbia:

  • Early in the spring, remove any damaged stems to keep the plant neat and healthy.
  • As soon as the euphorbia blooms, trim the stems at the base.
  • Clip carefully, since new shoots may appear that you wish to preserve.

anything touches your skin because it is a potent irritant. Additionally harmful due to the sap, spurges should be avoided.

euphorbias and yard cats survive for years without trouble, but I don’t have kids or pets.


Check individual entries as perennial euphorbias have varying hardiness, especially in regards to their northern boundaries.

for the plants that are listed here. Some species only have root hardiness further north but are evergreen in southerly zones. Other varieties do well as annuals.

Exposure: Sun or Shade?

Although some euphorbias can take some partial shade, most euphorbias prefer the sun. those with dark purple or reddish coloring

If planted in full sun, the foliage’s coloration will be more dramatic. In fact, just a few species prefer at least dappled.

Others require part shade in the South’s blazing sunshine but can tolerate intense sun in the North, where they can thrive. One option that works well in shadow is Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae.


The ability of spurges to withstand drought is one of its greatest advantages, hence proper drainage is essential.

The “Chameleon” does like more wetness than other animals. Euphorbias are also not fussy about soil, and the majority can

tackle common and sandy circumstances. Fertile soils may promote those varieties that tend to run and spread.

Keeping things lean gives control since people tend to expand beyond their limitations. However, if you want your

How quickly does euphorbia spread?

The heavier stems have a tendency to point in the direction of the light as they grow. To stop the container from leaning, rotate it.

The shedding of leaves is typical. In a few months, fresh leaves will emerge at the top of the stem.

I can get up to 30 feet tall in nature. I can grow quickly indoors in a container and reach a height of 5-8 feet. From the base, fresh, light-green shoots will emerge.

You may have overwatered if you notice rotting at the plant’s base or notice that the stems are no longer spongey. By removing the top treatment and allowing the soil to breathe, you might attempt to dry it out. If the stem is still too wet, you can cut it with a fresh corrugated knife and transplant it in fresh, drier soil.

There are a few key differences which I will break down:

Cacti are only indigenous to the New World, with the exception of the Rhipsalis baccifera. There are no cacti in Europe, Russia, Australia, nor in Africa or Asia (except for that one species of Rhipsalis). On the other hand, euphorbia are native to many regions of the world, although those from Africa and India are the most cactus-like.

Both cacti and euphorbias have prickles, however the prickles on each species are unique. All cacti have areoles, which are structures that serve as the source of the spines, which are modified leaves. The most common thorns on euphorbias are modified stems that are typically seen in pairs. Areoles do not exist in euphorbias.

Cacti and succulent Euphorbias both retain water for dry spells, but latex, a hazardous sap, is present in all Euphorbias. It is most likely a Euphorbia if you cut open a succulent and it weeps this white fluid.

Cacti and Euphorbias both produce flowers, however the blossoms are typically extremely dissimilar. Euphorbia blooms are often subtle, whereas cactus blossoms are frequently spectacularly colorful and striking. Flowers from euphorbia are frequently a light greenish-yellow tint. However, some Euphorbias, such as Euphorbia milii, have vivid flowers (Crown of Thorns).

So there you have it—in a nutshell, the similarities and differences between cacti and euphorbias. Next time you see a spiny succulent, you’ll be able to identify it as a cactus, a Euphorbia, or something else by taking a closer look.