The peony has the fattest, most delicious petals and rich green foliage, making it outrageously attractive when it is in bloom. From spring to summer, savor stunning floral displays. Learn how to care for, grow, and plant peony.
About Peonies
Peonies are a perennial that will steal your breath away every year. The plants may even outlive you—some have been reported to survive for at least a century.
When Is Peony Season? When Do Peonies Bloom?
Depending on your location and the kind you are planting, peonies bloom from late spring to early summer.
You may extend the peony season across several weeks and take use of those magnificent blossoms for as long as possible thanks to the abundance of nurseries that provide early, midseason, and late blooming types.
Peonies may thrive as far south as Zones 7 and 8, and they are hardy to Zone 3. The key to success in the majority of the United States is to provide full light and well-drained soil. Peonies even enjoy the winter’s coldness because it helps their buds grow.
Types of Peony Flowers
You can pick from six different varieties of peony flowers: anemone, single, Japanese, semi-double, double, and bomb. The odors of different plants also differ; some, like “Festiva Maxima” and “Duchesse de Nemours,” have seductive rose-like aromas, while others have a lemony scent or none at all.
Where to Plant Peonies
When planted as a low hedge or along sidewalks, peonies make excellent sentinels. As majestic and dignified as any flowering shrub, the peony’s bushy cluster of attractive glossy green leaves lasts all summer before turning purplish-red or gold in the fall.
Peonies work nicely with irises and roses in mixed borders and blossom alongside columbines, baptisias, and veronicas. Plant pink peonies with blue Nepeta or violets, then surround white peonies with yellow irises and a froth of forget-me-nots.
Peonies are not overly picky, but you should pick your place carefully because they dislike disruption and do not transplant well.
Although they can survive in partial shade, peonies like full sun, and they flower at their best in an area that receives 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day.
Because of its huge flowers, peonies can become top-heavy in severe winds. Therefore, provide shelter. (If necessary, stakes can be used to hold them up.) Planting too close to trees or bushes will cause peony to compete with them for nutrients, sunlight, and moisture.
Grow peony in rich, wet, humus-rich soil that is deep, fertile, and well-draining. pH in the soil should be neutral.
When to Plant Peonies
As long as they are planted correctly and become established, peony plants require minimal upkeep. However, keep in mind that they do not adapt well to transplanting, so you should consider this when choosing your planting location.
- Plant peony in the fall: in the majority of the United States, in late September or early October, and even later in the fall in Zones 7 and 8. Your planting zone can be found here.
- If you need to move an established plant, the fall is the ideal season because the plant will be dormant.
- About six weeks before the ground freezes, peonies should be planted.
- While planting peonies in the spring is absolutely a possibility, the results aren’t always favorable. They often trail behind plants planted in the fall by roughly a year, according to experts.
How to Plant Peonies
- Peonies are typically offered as divisions of a 3- or 4-year-old plant, bare-root tubers with 3 to 5 eyes (buds).
- Peonies should be placed 3 to 4 feet apart to allow for enough air circulation. The development of disease can be facilitated by stagnant, damp air.
- In a sunny area, dig a generously sized hole that is about 2 feet deep and 2 feet wide. The inclusion of organic matter in the planting hole will improve the soil. Add additional compost to the soil to improve it if it’s sandy or heavy. Add about a cup of bonemeal to the ground. Find out more about soil improvements and getting the soil ready for planting.
- The roots should be positioned in the hole just 2 inches below the soil’s surface, with the root’s eyes facing upward on top of a mound of soil. Avoid planting too deeply! Choose early-blooming species, put them approximately 1 inch deep, and provide some shade in southern states.
- Backfill the hole after that, being careful to prevent soil settlement and a 2-inch root burying. Gently tamp the ground.
- Plant a container-grown peony no deeper than it was when it was in the pot.
- When planting, give everything plenty of water.
How to Care for Peonies
Young peony take time to develop, just like children. In order to establish themselves, blossom, and flourish, they typically require a few years. They eventually leave home on their own, fully grown and adjusted… No, that’s just kids, I suppose.
Peonies benefit from gentle neglect. They don’t require digging and dividing every few years like the majority of perennials do.
- Don’t use any fertilizer. Before planting, till the soil thoroughly while adding compost and a small amount of fertilizer.
- Early summer, after the peonies have flowered and you have deadheaded the blooms, is the ideal time to apply fertilizer (such as bonemeal, compost, or well-rotted manure) to a soil that is deficient in nutrients. Keep fertilizing to a few years at most.
- assist the stems Peonies’ stems, which occasionally are not strong enough to hold their enormous blossoms, are the only part of their structure that may be considered weak. Think of structures that allow the plant to grow through the middle of the support, like three-legged metal peony rings or wire tomato cages.
- Peony blossoms should be deadheaded as soon as they start to fade, cutting to a sturdy leaf so that the stem doesn’t protrude through the foliage. To prevent any infections from overwintering, trim the foliage to the ground in the fall.
- Avoid covering peonies with mulch. For the first winter following planting, you can VERY LOOSELY mulch with pine needles or shredded bark when the winters are bitterly cold. In the spring, get rid of the mulch.
Peonies bloom between late spring and early summer, but by planting a variety of cultivars, you may arrange your garden for a succession of blooms from mid-May to late June. Here are a few options:
- ‘Early Scout’ has red solitary flowers that open incredibly early.
- “Firelight”: very early-blooming, single, pale-pink flowers
- ‘Karl Rosenfield’: double, midseason bloomer with substantial crimson blooms
Should peonies be pruned back for the winter?
It is recommended to prune your peonies in the fall before winter and to remove all plant debris.
According to Pangborn, peonies are prone to foliar fungal problems. If sick foliage is left on the plant during the winter, it may expose new growth to diseases that have overwintered on the old leaves and caused damage.
Peonies should be pruned before winter to keep your garden organized. Green claims that if you don’t cut them, the leaves and stems would rot, turn to mush, and eventually tumble to the ground.
How far back should peonies be clipped for the winter?
1. After a heavy frost, trim the stems at or close to ground level.
2. Regardless of whether the peony have a disease or not, completely remove all plant waste and dead leaves. It’s possible that the dead foliage has fungus spores that are invisible to the naked eye. If the plants were sick, you should carefully dispose of them in the garbage; under no circumstances should you compost them.
“Garden peony growing.” Home Pest News & Horticulture, Iowa State University.
How are peonies prepared for the fall season?
Raking leaves, gathering seed, dividing plants, and general cleanup will keep the gardener busy as winter approaches. There is a little less work to do and more time to enjoy the benefits of autumn for those of us who have peony plants in the garden.
The period from late April to early June when peonies are in full, regal bloom is for me the summer’s high point. But as the summer draws to a close, the peony’s foliage always surprises and intrigues.
Peonies for autumn colour
The peonies that are herbaceous and entirely die back in the winter have the brightest autumnal hue. While the rest of the garden is deteriorating, the intersectional varieties (like Paeonia ‘Morning Lilac’) put up a powerful, dignified display of orange, red, green, and purple leaf.
Early August may see the beginning of the fading and death of some of the earlier flowering kinds (such as Paeonia ‘Rubra Plena’ or Paeonia ‘Coral Charm’). Before they, too, shed their huge, divided leaves and leave woody branches standing erect in the flower beds, tree peonies, like Paeonia ‘High Noon,’ can be just as stunning. Even as it withers away, the peony bloom does so gently, serving as a constant reminder of its standing as a premier garden plant.
Some people might believe the peony is sensitive and needs protection from the severe winter weather due to its transitory grace of its large, blousy blossoms. That is not the situation. Peonies are hardy to roughly -20C, so they can withstand even the worst English winter. In fact, they bloom better after a cold winter.
Top autumn tips for peonies
- Herbaceous peony may appear to be dead above ground, while they are actively growing there. Avoid pruning them until late October or early November as the flowering buds for the following year will be growing and developing. Then trim them to a length of around 2.5 cm. This aids in the prevention of dangerous illnesses like springtime peony wilt. To stop disease from spreading, burn or remove the dead leaves.
- Peonies grow well in a variety of soil types, but they do particularly well in clay or heavy soils as long as the ground doesn’t freeze during the winter. Consider using bonemeal or a general, well-balanced fertilizer if your soil is lighter.
- Despite the widely-held belief that peonies dislike being moved, autumn is the best time to split and relocate well-established herbaceous peonies. In late October or early November, move your peony. Take as large a cluster as you can, making sure it has at least 3-5 “eyes,” or buds, to avoid damaging the roots. Make a hole big enough to fit the roots, then fill it with organic stuff. Do not sow your seeds too deeply. No more than 2.5 to 5 cm should be subsurface at the root’s crown. Give your peony some time to adjust to its new location.
More autumn tips for peonies
- The greatest time of year to plant bare-root peonies is in the fall. For optimal results, keep in mind to choose a high-quality bare-root peony. If you notice bare-roots for sale earlier in the year, be wary. The mother plants will be removed from the fields around September/October and split. They can be decaying since they were kept in cold storage. Remember to plant bare-roots with the crown no deeper than 2.5–5 cm below the surface and to look for bare-roots with at least 3-5 “eyes” or buds.
- Tree peony rarely need to be pruned, however it might be essential occasionally. Giving tree peony a gentle pruning in the fall is good. They typically take a trim well. Cut back the elder stems to roughly 2.5 cm, or every third stem if in doubt, to promote a healthy growth habit. The plant will become bushier as a result. To keep your tree peony looking tidy, you might also lightly clip it to just above the new growth of the season. Fewer flowers in the spring may result from autumn pruning, but this is only a temporary trade-off for a stronger, healthier plant.
Even if it may appear that the onset of winter is causing your garden peonies to die, keep in mind that this gloomy, above-ground aspect is a defense against winter. Your peonies are putting in a lot of effort to prepare bloom buds for the following year and prepare for the upcoming winter. They will triumph over winter and emerge stronger and with more blooms than before.
Visit primrosehall.co.uk to learn more about Alec White and Primrose Hall Peonies.
What happens if peonies aren’t pruned back?
In the winter, you don’t really need to do anything to or for your herbaceous bush peony plants. However, if you discover that you neglected to remove the stems in the fall, you still have time to do so.
Herbaceous (bush) peony, such as the intersectional Itoh peonies, eventually lose their leaves and stems when the plants hibernate for the winter. The stems will tumble to the ground and turn “mushy,” and the leaves will begin to decay. That is normal. The plant’s roots are not perishing; instead, new shoots and stems will appear in the spring. People may panic and believe their peony has perished, but this is simply the bush peony’s natural development cycle.
Be careful not to cut any exposed peony ‘eyes,’ which are typically pink or crimson buds and serve as the stems for the following year, while cutting off peony stems that are close to the ground. Put the stems and leaves in the trash after disposal. Peony stems and leaves shouldn’t be composted since they can harbor botrytis, a fungal disease, especially in moist environments. Each peony plant’s surrounding area should be cleaned up.
Most places don’t require mulching peonies. If you mulch your herbaceous bush peony plants, make sure to take it off in the early spring to avoid burying the roots too far. Years of mulching or applying bark dust around bush peony will eventually cause the roots to be buried too deeply, which could lead to fewer spring blooms. Just an inch or two of soil should remain above the roots of herbaceous bush peony after you remove that.
Additionally, it is normal for a mature peony’s crown to gradually heave up through the ground and display some exposed “eyes” in the winter. Don’t worry, peony plants enjoy the harsh winters.
Tree peony leaves must be removed from the ground and branches when they start to degrade. A tree peony’s branches are left hanging, barren and naked for the winter, rather of being chopped down in the fall. Don’t worry too much if you or a helper cuts a tree peony down to the ground and you panic or feel dejected. It’s likely that the roots have grown deeply enough to support spring branch growth. It might grow into a magnificent, revitalized tree peony in two or three years. I’ve seen it happen, so I know. In contrast to bush peony, tree peonies prefer more soil on top of the roots. Try adding a few inches of soil around the base of the trunk of a tree peony if it has lost its vigor. Yes, it is exactly the reverse of what is suggested for bush peony.
You can go outside again after the snow melts and it’s nice out to work on any “lost” stems.
What are peony used for in the fall?
Herbaceous peonies need to be severely pruned back to the ground in the fall. Pruning is unnecessary for tree peony. In the fall, all that is required is the removal of the faded seed heads. In the autumn, resist the urge to remove the withered leaves; instead, let it fall off naturally. Tree peony should not be severely pruned because they are sometimes grafted onto herbaceous peonies.
Try to avoid walking on the herbaceous types’ newly emerging buds when weeding borders.
Peonies occasionally develop suckers at the plant’s base. David Hurrion discusses what to do with them in this passage:
How to propagate peonies
Herbaceous peonies can be multiplied in the fall through division. Lift the plant with a garden fork after trimming back the wilted foliage. Cut off pieces of the crown with a knife after removing as much of the garden soil as you can. There should be plenty of root in each part and at least three buds. Replant as soon as possible in the garden.
Try not to split tree peonies. Alternatively, you might be able to attempt sowing seed or stacking a flexible stem.
Growing peonies: problem solving
Ants are drawn to the peony buds. It’s common to witness ants swarming around the buds. They won’t harm the plant, so don’t be concerned.
Peony wilt is by far the most prevalent issue. The stems decay as a result of this botrytis. Planting peonies too closely together is best avoided. Remove any leaves with dark spots on them to help stop the fungus from spreading. To prevent reinfection in spring, remove all the foliage before trimming back herbaceous plants in the fall.
In this Gardeners’ World video clip, Carol Klein provides a practical guide on identifying and treating peony wilt as well as advice on how to clean secateurs to prevent reinfection: