March has arrived, and the first indications of spring are emerging gradually but surely. The first hardy birds have begun to sing their melodies, the snowdrops have come and gone, and the crocuses are displaying their white, yellow, or purple glory. They appear out of nowhere: Narcissus and Daffodils. These perennial favorites of spring often appear unexpectedly in the landscape. The grass is covered in little groupings, and borders all over are filled with their dark green foliage and yellow and white blooms, signaling the arrival of spring. If you don’t have a lawn, what then? Or your borders’ soil doesn’t drain too well? The good news is that daffodils grow just as well in pots and containers, allowing you the option to choose the precise location for these cheery flowers.
How to grow daffodils in pots or containersthe best containers
Daffodils require a container that is 8 to 12 inches in diameter and 12 inches deep since their roots will extend down approximately that far. Your key theme should be drainage, drainage, and more drainage, as with any flower bulbs. Daffodil bulbs that sit in soggy soils will decay, so make sure your container has openings for water to escape out of.
Growing daffodils in pots or containerssoil and planting
The same as for your garden, fall is the best season to plant pots and other containers. Filling your container with soil from your garden may seem like a quick fix, but it’s better to use a blend of potting soil and sandy soil to simulate the soil the bulbs originally originated from. No fertilizer is required. The potting mix should cover roughly two thirds of the container. The bulbs should then be arranged in a circle, pointed ends up, but apart from one another. Put your potting mixture on top, then thoroughly water.
How to grow daffodils in pots or containersafter planting
After you have inserted the daffodil bulbs, relocate the container to a cool, dark area where the temperature is always between 40 and 45 degrees F. The pot should be left there for 12 to 15 weeks. Do periodically check on them to make sure the soil hasn’t become overly dry, and water as necessary. Alternately, bury the entire pot slightly beneath the surface of the ground, then remove it in the early spring.
Daffodils in pots or containersgoing outside and aftercare
When the 15 weeks are over, it’s appropriate to transfer the container to a sunny, cool (50–65 F) location and keep watering the plants there. You can move the pot into direct sunshine as the leaves begin to appear, but make sure it stays cold because excessively warm temperatures will cause fewer flowering. When the soil feels dry, water it. You can remove the faded blossoms by pruning them, but you should keep the foliage until it has completely wilted. In this manner, the nutrients might return to the bulb for the following season. Daffodils grown in pots can bloom for up to three years straight, but it’s preferable for the bulbs if they are returned to the ground after one season and replaced with new bulbs the following year.
Daffodils on your doorstep
Do you want to see daffodils all over, not just in lawns and borders? When you grow daffodils in pots, you can put them wherever there is enough light. Browse our selection of premium daffodils on our website. Choose what you want, order it, and we’ll deliver it to your home in the fall.
Do daffodils thrive in containers?
The methods I use to raise daffodils for daffodil exhibitions are described below. You can most likely increase the quantity of bulbs in a pot for regular growing.
It is advisable to use 1 gallon pots for miniatures and little bulbs and 2 gallon pots for standard-sized daffodils. Drain used pots after cleaning them with Clorox.
The ratio of perlite to sterilized soil in the soil mixture I’ve created is 1 part perlite to 3 parts soil. A small amount of 0-10-10 fertilizer should be placed in the pot’s bottom over some dirt. Make sure the fertilizer doesn’t come in contact with the bulb. Try to position the bulb so that it is about 1/3 of the way from the pot’s top. The new roots will force the bulbs above earth if you plant too closely to the surface. One medium-sized bulb should be the sole one in a gallon pot. Put 3 to 4 bulbs, depending on their size, in a 2 gallon container. Plant five bulbs, perhaps, if the bulbs are on the little side.
Dump the soil and carefully replant the bulb or bulbs in the pot at a lower level if you notice one sticking up above the earth. I want that display bulbs not touch each other. My general placement guideline is to space them the same distance from the pot’s side and at least as far apart as the diameter of the bulbs.
After November 1st, give the pots a lot of water because it takes time for the peat moss in the super soil to become completely saturated. Every day for the first week, drink water. Give pots that have dried out on top extra water.
Since daffodils like acidic soil and our tap water is alkaline, you should add approximately 1 teaspoon of Ironite (TM) for 1 gallon pots and 2 teaspoons for 2 gallon pots. This maintains the acidity of the soil.
After the plant has bloomed, sprinkle the pot with 5-10-10 fertilizer. It also aids in developing the bulb for the plant’s bloom the next year.
I utilize that soil for other plants instead of daffodils if a daffodil dies in one of the pots.
Please take note that Wayne, an honorable grower, planted all of his daffodils in containers.
Nancy Wilson of Garberville, California, has added the following notes:
Narcissus enjoy a summertime bake. They thrive in pots and containers that are deep enough for their roots to spread out.
Turn the pot on its side and store it out of the way six weeks after blossoming. In the fall, turn it back up to begin a new season of bloom. After drying them off, cleaning them, and storing them in a nylon stocking or paper bag with a label in a dry location until fall, bulbs can be kept in a pot for two to three years.
If you reside in a region with harsh winters (temperatures below freezing), you will need to keep your potted daffodils inside of a greenhouse or garage. Bring the pots out of storage, set them where they will receive full sun, and water them well when the temperature does not go below freezing.
For daffodil bulbs, how deep should a pot be?
Plant your bulbs as deeply in your container as you would in the ground; for example, 6 to 7 inches deep for tulips and daffodils, and 4 to 5 inches deep for small bulbs like crocus and Siberian squill. Don’t use garden soil. After planting, thoroughly water your bulbs.
Keep the planted bulbs somewhere that will stay consistently cold but not below freezing, such as a garage or shed, if you are growing bulbs in a container too tiny to spend the winter outdoors or one made of a material like terra-cotta that needs protection from freezing temperatures. Bring your bulbs outside; most basements are too warm for them to grow properly indoors.
Can bulbs be kept in pots year-round?
After flowering, you can leave the bulbs in their pots, but it’s a good idea to add some fresh soil and fertilize once more. The bulbs can alternatively be taken out, let to air dry, and then placed in a paper bag in a position that meets the necessary chilling criteria until you’re ready to force them once more.
Many bulbs will reward you with forced bulbs in pots year after year with adequate feeding, light, and cooling, but some will eventually die out since the store organ can only be replenished for so long.
Can bulbs be kept in pots during the winter?
I consider the beauty and drama they will bring to the landscape the following spring when I plant bulb containers in the autumn. These planted pots will not only serve as focus points around the garden but also serve as a welcoming sight for guests at the entrances and a splash of vibrant color in the spring garden.
Any bulb can be grown in a container, but tulips are by far my favorite due to their straightforward shape and virtually limitless color options. Different types of bulbs can coexist in the same container as long as they bloom at the same time. Otherwise, the later-flowering bulb’s display will be spoiled by the earlier bulb’s fading foliage. For the most impact, I like to plant only one kind of bulb per pot. By selecting bulbs with varying bloom periods, we can enjoy a succession of blooms from the beginning of March until the middle of May.
Plant bulbs in containers in fall
Our bulbs are planted in well-draining containers in late October. I can grow 50 tulips, 30 large-flowered daffodils, 50 tiny-flowered daffodils, or 100 small bulbs, such as Crocus, Muscari, Scilla, or Iris species or cultivars, in a 24-inch pot. In order to keep the bulbs in soil that is moist but not soggy, I fill the container with a soil mixture that drains extremely well. I plant the bulbs at a soil depth twice as much as the diameter of the bulb, precisely as I would in the ground.
I layer the bulbs when planting different types of bulbs in the same container if their planting depths differ (illustration at right). I place the larger bulbs in the container once it is filled to the correct level, cover them with soil, then wait until it is time to plant the smaller bulbs. I then add soil to the container, being careful to allow at least a half-inch space between the soil’s surface and the top of the container for watering.
I thoroughly water the planted container and continue to water it throughout the winter. The soil shouldn’t be too wet for the bulbs to sit in, but you also don’t want it to be completely dry.
Layering bulbs in containers
Put the larger bulbs first, cover them with dirt, and then plant the smaller bulbs in a container to grow a variety of bulbs. Just below the rim of the container, add soil.
Overwintering methods depend on where you live
In containers, overwintering bulbs is rather simple in Seattle gardens. Since stoneware pots may be kept outside during the winter, I primarily use them. Our mild winters enable us to tightly combine the pots in our nursery and leave them outside for the whole of the year.
For colder winter climes, more robust containers composed of stone, cast concrete, fiberglass, cast iron, or plastic are appropriate. In colder regions of the country, you might encircle the pots with firmly packed straw or bury them in sawdust before covering them with a thick layer of mulch (18 inches or more). Alternately, you may keep them in a garage or outbuilding that won’t get too cold but also won’t become hot during the day.
You have another choice if your winter is simply too harsh to risk leaving the bulbs out or if you wish to utilize bulbs in a container that cannot be stored in the cold. Plant your bulbs in 6- or 8-inch plastic pots, and protect them from the elements by storing them outside (in a cold frame, for example) or in a cold garage.
The pots can then be inserted into bigger display containers as they begin to bloom in the spring. When the threat of a hard frost has gone or the underground bulbs have begun to sprout in the spring, move your containers outside.
I put all the bulbs in the garden, excluding the tulips, after the flowers have faded and the spring festival is done. I compost tulips since they don’t grow nicely in later years. Then I start planning the kinds I’ll grow in the fall for the show the following year.
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In how many groups should I plant daffodil bulbs?
The earliest point in early October, if you live in USDA zones 4 to 6, is the ideal time to grow daffodils.
Daffodils should be planted in bunches of 10 or more when being grown. All you have to do is arrange around seven bulbs in a loose circle, placing three in the center.
You shouldn’t combine various cultivars within each planting group for aesthetic reasons. If you plant just one variety together, the outcome will be better (such as a group of ten “Ice Follies, but not a group of “Ice Follies mixed with “Spellbinder, etc.). If you have enough room, you can use 25 or more bulbs to plant these in larger blocks.
In a formal garden with shapes like squares or circles, daffodils look lovely. Even plantings with a fish-like taper look fantastic.
After planting bulbs in pots, do you water them?
Bulb planting in containers in the fall has different requirements than bulb planting in the ground. You might be let down if you treat them the same. On the other hand, if you carefully adhere to our recommendations, you can have lovely pots of spring flowers adorning your terrace or welcome guests to your front door. Please be aware, however, that we cannot guarantee the success of our fall-planted bulbs when grown in containers because so much depends on your care.
1. Select the Proper Plant and Soil
Terra cotta, ceramic, and even solid plastic pots are easily broken when soil water freezes and expands. To prevent this, plant your bulbs in flexible plastic pots—common black nursery pots, for example—and then, after the bulbs begin to bloom in the spring, slide these pots into elegant cache-pots.
For growing bulbs in pots, even the best garden soil is typically too heavy or dense, and many common potting soils will also provide issues. Look for one with a good amount of perlite, vermiculite, or bark that is moderately porous, quick-draining, and fast-draining. Peat moss-based mixes should be avoided since they frequently remain too damp for bulbs. Avoid mushroom manure and compost as well.
Plant Bulbs Shallowly and Close Together
Compared to bulbs grown in the ground, bulbs in pots are often planted much closer together and less deeply. (It is better to adhere to normal recommendations for depths and spacing if your containers are quite large and more resemble garden beds than pots, such as in a roof-top garden.) Plant bulbs with their tops slightly below the soil’s surface, close to one another but not touching. The idea is to provide as much space under them as possible for root development. For a neater display of leaves, place tulip bulbs with their flat side facing out.
Some experts advise changing between layers of bulbs so that they are not immediately on top of one another for a more opulent appearance, but we say leave that to the professionals. Overcrowding can cause issues, and one layer of bulbs is more than plenty.
Another thing we advise against is putting many bulb varieties in the same pot. For different bulbs, the times required for rooting and blooming can vary so widely that the results are frequently disappointing, especially for beginners.
Keep Bulbs Cold But Not TOO Cold
It can be fatal for bulbs in above-ground pots since they will experience far greater winter temperatures than those planted in the ground, where the dirt acts as a giant insulating blanket. Even in the coldest regions of the nation, the earth a few feet below the surface hardly ever freezes, thus a bulb planted six inches below the surface will experience warmer temperatures than one that is in a pot on top of the ground. For instance, zone 5 bulbs are hardy UNDERGROUND, not in an above-ground container where temperatures could easily drop by 20 degrees. This means that you must keep your potted bulbs during the winter in a location that generally stays below 48 degrees Fahrenheit but not getting as bitterly cold as the outside.
But cold is important! The majority of fall-planted bulbs require a specific amount of hours below 48 F to finish the chemical transformations necessary for their flower stems to emerge and develop to a proper height. (This is how nature stops them from flowering in the middle of a midwinter thaw.) The time of “Required relaxation time varies greatly. For instance, tulips require a lot of cold, whilst some varieties of tazetta narcissus require almost none. However, if you don’t provide your bulbs with the necessary cold, they will either bloom on very short stems or not at all.
Depending on how cold it gets where you live, it can be difficult to find a location where the temps are exactly ideal for your potted bulbs. However, in most locations, this will be either too cold or too warm. In certain localities, you can just lay them in the shadow on the north side of your house. Bury the pots in the ground if it’s too cold, perhaps in your vegetable garden, as an option. Make sure the bulbs are at least as deep as they would be if planted directly in the ground, place a layer of rocks under the pots for drainage, and mulch with a foot or two of straw or hay. Alternately, try them in a refrigerator (but see #5 below), attic, crawl area, attached garage, or unheated mudroom. If it’s too warm outside, which it probably will be in zones 8, 9, and 10 and maybe in zone 7, you’ll need to “Before or after planting, pre-chill your potted bulbs for 8–10 weeks in the refrigerator (not the freezer).
A maximum-minimum thermometer, which is readily available at any reputable garden center, is the finest tool for keeping an eye on the temperatures in any of these locations, even late at night when you’re asleep.
Protect from Freeze-Thaw Damageand Mice, Etc.
The phenomenon known as the freeze-thaw cycle can also harm bulbs that are planted in pots. Although temperatures for bulbs in the ground will be fairly consistent, the soil temperature in containers might vary significantly from day to night. For containers placed directly in the sun, this is a much bigger issue. Even on days that are barely above freezing, soil temperatures can soar during the day, thawing the soil and encouraging the bulbs to flourish as if it were spring. The soil in the exposed container therefore rapidly cools and is easily susceptible to freezing during the night as air temperatures drop. The constant freezing and thawing damages the bulbs and breaks the roots. To prevent this, keep your pots in a cool, SHADED location until spring, when the leaves will have poked up at least an inch above ground.
Even more harmful rodents include mice, chipmunks, and other species. Jane Baldwin told us that “mice and other vermin were the only reason for failure for me. Her advice for growing bulbs in baskets is featured below. Although I’ve also placed them in vintage galvanized garbage cans, I believe the best option is to either (a) put the pots in a small closet in the garage, or (b) turn larger pots over each of them.
Use Your Garage and Refrigerator with Caution
The majority of unattached garages provide very little insulation against the cold, however they might be suitable for some bulbs in some regions. Alternatively, continue with caution. In spite of the size of the pot or the severity of the winter, Buffalo, New York gardener Elizabeth Licata never loses any of her potted bulbs. She keeps them in a detached garage. While tulips have thrived in her garage, hyacinths haven’t, which makes sense given that they aren’t as winter-hardy as tulips.
If you keep the doors closed, attached garages are typically a much better place to store potted bulbs. Heat rises, therefore the warmest spots are often higher and closer to the house’s walls (where heat radiates out). Unfortunately, ethylene gas found in exhaust fumes from moving vehicles can cause flower buds to abort, thus warming up your car in the garage on chilly mornings may result in pots of fantastic foliage but no flowers come spring.
Fruit that is getting ripe also releases ethylene gas, so keep fruit as far away from your bulbs as you can if you’re storing your bulbs in the refrigerator.
Keep Soil Moist but Not Soggy
Water your bulbs well after planting, and then let the pot stand in a saucer of water for an hour or longer to allow the potting soil to absorb additional water because the dry peat moss in potting soil can be challenging to wet thoroughly. When you are certain that the soil is evenly moist throughout the pot, take the pot off the saucer, let the extra water drain, and then put it back on the saucer.
Throughout the winter, use your finger to check the soil’s moisture level at least once a week. Soil should be moist but never waterlogged (make a note in your calendar or add a reminder to your phone). When the bulbs are first sprouting, you won’t need to water them very often, but as the roots fill the pot and the top growth starts to appear, the soil will start to dry up much more quickly. Keep in mind that a pot is a compact, closed system, and your bulbs won’t develop and bloom as well if they can’t get all the water they require constantly.
You might need to keep your potted bulbs from becoming too damp in the winter if they are outside. Cover the pots or relocate them to a protected area if there are prolonged wet periods. Tulip bulbs in particular will perish if they are kept too damp for an extended period of time.