Nepeta Walker’s Low (Walker’s Low Catmint) is a hardy variety with fragrant gray-green foliage and dark lavender-blue blooms in late spring. This resilient perennial plant, which is resistant to rabbit and deer damage and endures hard circumstances, is essential for use in xeriscapes. perennial plant that is drought tolerant or resistant (xeric).
How to plant nepeta
Nepeta can be planted beginning in October and continuing through May or June as long as you leave 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) between each plant.
- Although it can tolerate little shade, nepeta prefers full sun.
- It enjoys well-drained soil of any quality.
- Nepeta has the finest flavor when it is grown in direct sunlight.
Where should Nepeta Walkers Low be planted?
Nepeta can be grown in either full or partial shade, in well-drained soil. allows for drought. After the first wave of flowers, hard-cut plants back to just a few inches tall to keep them compact and to promote repeat flowering.
Catmints are virtually as appealing to cats as catnip is (which belongs to the same genus). To keep plants from being harmed, you might need to provide protection (particularly during the first season after planting). N. nervosa’s foliage lacks the spiciness that the other Catmints’ leaves emit, making it less alluring to cats.
How far apart should Walkers Low catmint be planted?
The Walker’s Low Catmint can reach heights of 24–30 inches. Yes, it does grow straight. It ought to be separated by 16 to 18 inches.
Does Nepeta return each year?
Nepeta is a dependable perennial that grows regularly year after year. It is extremely hardy and tolerant of all environmental factors. When the growing circumstances are unsuitable for lavender, catmint can be used as a viable substitute, creating clouds of light blue and mauve in a garden. Nepeta is beneficial for growing in more challenging sections of the garden since it tolerates a wide range of growth circumstances, such as partial shade, dry weather, and drought zones.
While Lavender cannot survive in wetter conditions, Catmint can withstand them; Lavender needs considerably drier conditions, especially in the winter. As a Mediterranean plant, lavender will struggle on heavier, wetter ground. In contrast to catmint, which can grow practically everywhere, it needs to be dry, in well-drained soil, and in the sun. Nepeta is less picky about where it grows because it is native to many different settings. Catmint can thrive in full or partial sunlight, as well as in damp or dry soil. It can practically be grown everywhere and is incredibly tough. It will only not tolerate really soggy terrain. It has a long flowering period and occasionally produces a second flush of flowers if you cut it down.
Nepeta is quite simple to establish once it is planted. The added benefit is that pollinators and bees find it incredibly alluring. On a warm day, a clump will be buzzing with the sound of bees as you pass it. It is a plant that grows well in practically any environment and doesn’t require feeding, which can cause it to become lanky. As its name implies, it is appealing to creatures other than bees. Insert a few sticks to prevent cats from rolling on your Nepeta if you don’t like cats and don’t want that to happen. The sticks will blend in with the plant growth and will be undetectable to cats. If you enjoy cats, you might just want to stand by and observe how crazy they become when they see cat mint, running after it and rolling around.
Can Walkers Low survive in the shade?
‘Walker’s Low’ catmint is a must-have if you want a perennial that is simple to cultivate, tolerant of heat and drought, resistant to pests and diseases, and covered in eye-catching lavender blossoms from spring through fall. It is an excellent alternative if you adore the traditional pairing of lavender and roses but find lavender to be too challenging to grow in your location. This herbaceous Nepeta racemose x Nepeta nepetella hybrid is a part of the Lamiaceae (mint) family and is native to West Asia (Turkey and Iran).
The ‘Walker’s Low’ catmint should be planted in full sun or moderate shade and is cold hardy in USDA Zones 4a through 8b. It can grow in a wide range of moist soil conditions, including clay, loam, sand, and even shallow rocky textures, and it has a pH that is neutral and promotes adequate drainage (6.0-8.0). It may be troubled by heavy humidity if it is planted in the south, where it will benefit from some afternoon shade.
“Walker’s Low” catmint can grow into tidy mounds up to 2 feet high with a spread of 18 to 36 inches under the right circumstances. Its 1-3 inch wide, aromatic green leaves are lance-shaped. The leaves are oppositely oriented, simple, cordateovate in form, and have crenate edges. Crushed leaves release a pleasant scent. The stems start out green before turning gray and having a square cross section. trumpet-shaped, 1/2 inch long, showy blue or purple/lavender flowers are scattered loosely in bunches. Lavender-blue petals around the four stamens that are present on each bloom. If pruned down, the flowers will bloom again in July.
The catmint variety known as “Walker’s Low” was first grown by Faassen Nurseries in the Netherlands and named after a Walker’s Low garden. It is appropriate for gardens that can withstand drought, naturalized regions, and sloped slopes within blind gardens. It can be gathered into small clusters of plants or planted in borders. Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds are drawn to Walker’s Low catmint. It offers resilience to urban pollutants, dry soil, drought, and wildlife. The Perennial Plant of the Year for 2007 was Walker’s Low catmint.
Planting and Propagation:
“Walker’s Low” catmint should be planted in soil with a neutral pH that is well-draining and has clay, loam, sand, or even shallow rocky texture. Since flower production is said to be better in more basic soil mixes, the soil shouldn’t be overly enriched. At least three feet should be given to each plant. When planting in Zone 8, some defense against late-afternoon southwestern exposures should be taken into account.
Because “Walker’s Low” catmint is a hybrid, there is no seed production in the blooms. The main technique for propagation is division of an established bed. Unlike most members of the mint family, this plant can be divided in the spring and won’t take over a garden bed.
Basic Maintenance Requirements:
‘Walker’s Low’ catmint can tolerate drought, but until it becomes well established, newly planted specimens should get constant moisture of at least an inch per week. Shredded pine bark or pine needles should be used to mulch the area around each plant in the bed. There is no need for external bracing or support for “Walker’s Low” catmint.
Instructions for Fertilizing:
The first spring after planting, catmint beds of the variety “Walker’s Low” may benefit from the addition of an organic mulch and organic fertilizer. As an alternative, balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) with a slow release (10-10-10) may be used a few weeks after planting. Plants that are well-established do not require additional fertilization.
Pruning guidelines: Infected or damaged stems or leaves may be cut off at any time. Reblooming will be encouraged all summer long by the removal of spent blossoms. The bed can bloom later in the summer if sheared.
Disease & Insects:
“Walker’s Low” catmint is resistant to pests and illnesses. Leaf spot can happen infrequently. There is no consensus that the severity of this fungus illness justifies the use of chemical control measures. The easiest way to prevent leaf diseases is to water the bed using drip line irrigation or water early in the morning so that the plants have time to dry out in the sunlight.
When should catmint be planted?
The perennial herb genus Nepeta, which also includes catnip, is known as catmint (Nepeta cataria). They are very pest- and problem-free plants that are incredibly simple to grow. Nepeta has beautiful, lacy-looking gray-green leaves that is mildly fragrant. Early in the summer, its swaying leaves is crowned with spikes of flowers, which continue to bloom all season. White, pink, or lavender-blue flowers are all possible.
The majority of catmint species have a slightly expansive growth habit, which makes them great plants for running down paths and border planting spaces. There are a few tall-growing types with a more upright habit, including “Six Hills Giant,” though. Catmint is resistant to deer, like many other plants with fragrant gray foliage. It spreads swiftly and may be planted from spring to early fall in most regions.
Catmint: a ground cover or not?
Because of its size and the quantity of flowers it produces, Nepeta x faassenii “6 Hills Giant” is a striking herb. After the initial flowering of this perennial, shear it back, and you will be rewarded with floral color for the majority of the growing season. This is essentially the only summer maintenance it needs because it is a drought-tolerant ground cover.
Making insufficient space for the 6 Hills Giant is a typical landscaping error made by beginners. Any smaller specimens planted around the herb will eventually become dwarfed by it. To avoid bullying the young ones, this catmint plant should be brought outside to play with the big kids.
Similarly, do not plant it too close to the edge of your route if you intend to use it as an edging plant for a walkway because it will flow over and obstruct traffic.
Up a flower bed’s front row, you could let it fill in the gaping hole if you wanted to, but make sure to set it back about three feet. If not, it will climb the landscaping timber edging (or whatever type you use) and cause a hassle when you need to weed-eat or mow. But if placed correctly at the front of a perennial bed, it may still hold its own while acting as the foreground for larger plants like hollyhocks.
Can catmint be reduced in amount?
Catmint (Nepeta spp. and cvs., USDA Hardiness Zones 38) has a way of lifting my mood. This plant impresses me because it can stand out in even the most hostile circumstances, whether it’s along a cobbled walk in England or in the median planters that line Chicago boulevards. Over the course of several weeks in the summer, the beautiful lavender-blue blossoms appear to shine just as brilliantly in the garden as they do above a hard expanse of concrete and macadam. The easiest catmint delight for me, however, is seeing my cat Boo fall prey to its seductive charm.
Despite the fact that some varieties have been misused to the point of ubiquity, I have a lasting affection for catmint. And it was because of this affection that I wanted to try as many different kinds as I could in order to determine which ones were the greatest. It’s true that when catmints are mentioned, many gardening buddies scrunch up their faces. Now, while I freely acknowledge that I won’t mind if catmint and Knock Out roses (Rosa ‘Radrazz’, Zones 49) never see another planting, I’m not quite ready to give up on this wonderful collection of hardy perennials. This is particularly true of a few particular varieties that stand out for their durability, seemingly endless blooms, and attractive leaves.
Top performers
In terms of bloom time, general habit, disease resistance, and low maintenance requirements, these types were picked as the best.
The most well-liked plant in this genus is undoubtedly “Walker’s Low” (N. racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’, top photo), based on its popularity and the numerous prizes it has won. Walker’s Low is taller than one might anticipate at 30 inches. The name does not represent its size; rather, it relates to the garden in Ireland where it first appeared. One of the most magnificent floral displays ever is produced by luminous blue blossoms that are carried in upward-curving plumes up to 12 inches long. The attractive gray-green leaves are completely hidden by the flowers for several weeks when they are in full bloom in late April. Walker’s Low pairs beautifully with a range of perennials and is essential for softening sharp edges along patios and paths. In my garden, “Walker’s Low” and Japanese roof iris are a favorite combination (Iris tectorum, Zones 59). I adore the way the delicate, billowy catmint contrasts with the broad, spiky iris leaves, as well as the color echo of the lavender-blue blossoms.
The flower and foliage of “Sweet Dreams” (N. subsessilis ‘Sweet Dreams’) are a welcome change from those of other catmints. From early summer to late fall, charming pink blooms are arranged in generous clusters and tastefully complemented with burgundy bracts. By catmint standards, each trumpet-shaped blossom is 1 inch long, which is quite large. The lush green foliage will surprise you if you assume this is simply another catmint with gray-green leaves, especially when it turns colorful in the fall. Despite being a large plant, “Sweet Dreams” remains compact throughout summer. In contrast to other catmints, Japanese catmints (N. subsessilis and cvs.), such as “Sweet Dreams,” like wet soils and partial shade, though they are equally comfortable in full sun. However, deadheading is necessary to prevent “Sweet Dreams” from having a nightmare appearance after the first flush of blooms since the brown, spent flowers persist.
When great gardeners are honored with magnificent plants, it is lovely. Such a plant is called “Joanna Reed” (N. ‘Joanna Reed’), after the late Pennsylvania gardener who discovered it. One of the neatest catmints I’ve ever produced, and this quality secured a perfect score in our testing. It didn’t require deadheading because of its sturdy stems, which never flopped, and because new growth appeared swiftly to cover the wilting flower stems. I find it impossible to imagine “Joanna Reed” without blooms because of the constant display of huge violet-blue flowers that cover the wide-spreading, compact plants from spring into October. Many catmints boast about the attractiveness and unpalatability of their dusty green foliage.
Greek catmint (N. parnassica), according to a short internet search, is more popular in European gardens, but it’s still worthwhile to look for this rare beauty here. Greek catmint is robust and audacious. However, the stems of our test plants only grew to a maximum height and width of 4 feet. Stems up to 6 feet tall are possible. The tint of the fragrant leaves lies midway between green and gray-green. Beginning in early summer and continuing into early October, long spikes of tiny lavender blooms, each less than half an inch long, are densely populated. Greek catmint has the presence to dominate any garden and will cheerfully take all the sunlight you can throw at it.
I believe the catmint “Six Hills Giant” (N. “Six Hills Giant”) is the standard by which all other catmints should be measured. The word “giant” is used to indicate the massive plant size and the extravagant floral display. Long flower spikes attract attention starting in late spring. However, like many catmints, ‘Six Hills Giant’ may start to relax or even recline a few weeks into the flowering period. This was true in our testing. After the initial flower flush, don’t be afraid to bash it back to promote the growth of new, stronger stems. Although it may be difficult to consider giving up blossoms, there will be many more to come. For the ideal display, place “Six Hills Giant” next to virtually anything pink in the garden.
Select Blue (N. faassenii ‘Select Blue’), chosen for its blue flowers, is a superior addition to the group of long-blooming catmints. From midspring to midfall, I don’t think we experienced a day without flowers. The flowers are actually lavender with a darker calyx that gives them a swarthy appearance, despite claims that they are a darker blue than the straight species (N. faassenii). Late during the season, the low, mounded habit remained solid without shearing. For its tenacity and resistance to drought, the xeriscape specialists at High Country Gardens in New Mexico advise “Select Blue,” and we can vouch for its impressive performance in typical garden settings as well.
Getting down to the nitty-gritty of catmint
Catmints are tough, free-flowering perennials that typically like full sun and well-drained soils for growth. However, some are well-liked for xeriscaping because, once established, they can withstand drought. When lavenders are not hardy, they are often referred to as “poor man’s lavender (Lavandula spp. and cvs., Zones 59), which is an acceptable analogy. Here are some additional details concerning this category of plants that you should be aware of.
Catmints are incredibly floriferous from early spring to the end of the growing season. Their unique tubular, two-lipped blossoms identify them as belonging to the mint family. Even when the flowers have faded, colorful calyces still improve the floral arrangement.
Through slicing off a piece of an established clump with a spade, you can proliferate by spring division. There should be numerous young shoots and a sizable root system in each fresh division. Catmint cuttings will take root quickly if they are cut from healthy shoots before the flower buds appear. The cuttings should take several weeks to root if you place them in a moist medium like sand or a peat-perlite mixture.
An essential oil found in the leaves and stems causes cats to exhibit a range of behavioral reactions. Eating the leaves may have calming effects, while rubbing, licking, or biting them creates a momentary high. According to all accounts, cats are especially intoxicated by catmint, or catnip (N. cataria*). You unfortunately have limited options for preventing cats from mauling (and occasionally squashing) your plants. Although most plants will recover fast following an attack, barriers may be your only alternative.
Although Japanese catmints (N. subsessilis and cvs.) prefer moist soils and don’t mind partial shade, wet or soggy areas can be the death knell for most catmints. Catmints frequently appear on lists of deer-resistant plants because they are rarely troubled by disease or pests.
It’s simple to ignore the leaves when there are so many blooms to catch your attention. Many catmint species are known for their fuzzy, gray-green leaves, although some, like Siberian catmint (N. sibirica), have huge, green leaves instead. Finding it difficult to tell if something is catmint? Another distinguishing characteristic of the mint family is square stems.
High fertility merely promotes floppy behavior. Simply shear the older stems down to the young leaves coming from the crown when stems start to flop over and flower output begins to decline. Plants that have been sheared will recover in a few weeks and resume their natural appearance.
Catmint should only be pruned in the spring or once you are certain that the growing season has ended, as it can be ugly in the winter. Even late in the growing season, cutting it back stimulates it to resprout, and the new growth is cold-sensitive. Any potential winter damage is avoided by waiting until spring.