Early in the year, when you order geranium plug plants, you’ll get strong, young plants in plenty of time to cover your beds, borders, pots, and baskets with lovely blooms from June through October. We’ve put together some practical growing guidelines to help you get the most out of your geranium plugs. Here is all the information you require to cultivate pelargoniums expertly.
What to do when you receive your plug plants
Remove the growth tips to promote a bushier, flower-filled plant. Image: T&M’s Geranium ‘Power Red’
The simplest and most economical method to add color to your yard is with plug plants, and there is nothing more rewarding than seeing a plant you have cared for suddenly burst into bloom. Growing geranium plug plants is considerably faster and more successful than starting from scratch since they have been expertly tended to provide you the strongest, healthiest, and best quality plants possible. What to do when they show up is as follows:
- When your plug plants arrive, position them upright and make a note of their name on the packing. Ideal is a plastic label.
- Fill 3.5 (9 cm) containers with the plug plants. Use a general-purpose compost instead of bark-based composts, which are readily accessible. These retain an excessive amount of moisture, which drowns the roots and kills the plants. If the compost is a loose general purpose compost, you won’t need to add this; it’s useful but not necessary. I frequently add approximately 20% perlite to the compost since it helps the roots receive air around them.
- Ensure that the plug plants are always moist but not soggy. Because they have a limited root system when they are tiny, they won’t require extra water until they are larger.
- Put the plug plants in a bright area.
- The ideal conditions are hot and dry. Giving your plants “summer” in a dry, light, and bright environment will yield the finest results. A sunny windowsill will do just fine if you don’t have a greenhouse or conservatory.
- The hardest part is now here. Ready? The first batch of flower buds should be cut off while the plants are still young. Even though it’s challenging, it does imply the plant will focus its energy on developing its root system and foliage rather than on producing flowers.
Your geranium plugs will start to develop and flourish if you follow these five easy procedures. Isn’t nature wonderful? What should you do with them now? Geraniums prefer the spring and summer, therefore the closer you can get them to these seasons, the happier they will be. Locate a protected area with direct sunlight, and if you’re planting in the ground, make sure to harden them off and wait until there is no possibility of frost. And for links to other useful posts and articles, see our geraniums hub page for even more gardening tips. Enjoy!
How long do geranium plugs take to grow?
For spring flowering plants, geranium seeds should be sown in early- to mid-February.
For many years, geraniums have been a common choice for bedding plants. Cuttings are a frequent way to grow plants. Geraniums can, however, also be raised from seeds. Hybrid geraniums that are grown from seeds have great vigor, heat tolerance, disease resistance, and free blooming.
Growing geraniums from seeds is not too difficult. Geranium seedlings, however, develop slowly. For spring flowering plants, geranium seeds should be sown in early- to mid-February. Approximately 13 to 15 weeks after seeding, flowers begin to bloom. Geraniums from the Elite, Orbit, Maverick, and Multibloom Series are recommended for Iowa. A series is a collection of closely related types that share similar traits like height, spread, and flowering behavior. The only trait that typically varies within a series is the color of the flowers.
Jiffy Mix and Redi-earth are two great soilless mixtures that work well as germination media. Geranium seedling damping-off can be a significant issue during germination. Different species of fungi attack the seedlings and kill them, which is what causes damping-off. Containers used to start seeds should be spotless and have sufficient drainage to deter this. Prior to disinfection, previously used containers should be cleaned in soapy water and dipped into a solution of one part chlorine bleach to nine parts water.
The germination media should be poured into the container to within 1/2 to 1 inch of the top. Lightly firm the medium, completely wet it, and then give it some time to drain. Rows of seeds should be 2 to 3 inches apart, and the medium should cover the seeds by about 1/8 inch. After planting, thoroughly hydrate the soil by immersing the container in water only partially. Remove the container from the water after the surface is damp, then let it drain. The media can alternatively be hydrated with a gentle water spray from a sprinkler made of a rubber bulb or a similar tool.
Use clear plastic food wrap or a clear plastic dome to cover the container to maintain a constant moisture level during the germination process. Place the container in a well-lit area away from the sun. If the covered container is placed in the direct sun, there could be an excessive accumulation of heat. When germination is taking place, the medium’s temperature should be between 70 and 75 degrees F. The seeds should start to sprout in seven to ten days at the right temperature and moisture content.
As soon as the seeds start to germinate, remove the plastic covering. Put the seedlings in a window with natural light or under a light fixture. Fluorescent lights should be turned on for 12 to 16 hours a day and placed no higher than 4 to 6 inches above the seedlings. When the seedlings develop their first true set of leaves, transplant them into separate containers using a well-drained commercial potting mix. Handle the little seedlings by their leaves since the fragile, delicate stems are easy to break. When transplanting, place seedlings at the base of the seed leaves (cotyledons).
Grow seedlings under fluorescent lights for the greatest outcomes. One 40-watt cool white and one 40-watt warm white fluorescent tube can be used in a conventional fluorescent shop light. Due to little light, plants grown in windows frequently grow tall and spindly. Geraniums prefer daytime temperatures of 70 to 75 degrees and nighttime temperatures of 60 to 65 degrees. When the soil surface is completely dry to the touch, water the geraniums thoroughly. Fertilization is probably not required if using a potting mix that is sold commercially and has a slow-release fertilizer. For potting mixes without a slow-release fertilizer, applying a diluted fertilizer solution once every two weeks should be adequate.
Before putting the plants in the garden, harden or acclimatize them to the outdoors for seven to 10 days. First, plant the geraniums in a sheltered, shaded area. Then progressively subject the plants to extended sun exposure times. When there is no longer a chance of a frost, plant the geraniums outside. Early May is typically a good time to grow geraniums outside in central Iowa.
Geranium cuttings may be planted directly in the ground.
Geranium plant cuttings take root quite well and don’t require any herbicide or fungicide, yet complete success is unlikely. Simply place your cutting in a container filled with warm, damp potting soil. Place the pot in a bright area away from direct sunlight and give it a good watering.
Geranium plant cuttings are prone to decaying, therefore don’t cover the pot. When the soil feels dry, water the pot. Your geranium plant cuttings should have roots in only a week or two.
Allow your cuttings to remain in the open air for three days before planting them in the ground if you intend to do so. By doing this, the clipped tip will begin to develop a callus that will help protect it from rot and fungus in the non-sterile garden soil.
Can plug-in plants be planted directly in the garden?
Plug plants are a fantastic and affordable way to quickly and easily add summer color to your yard.
Although seeds are less expensive to purchase, properly sowing and cultivating them requires the purchase of propagation equipment. Germination can also be hit or miss, and picking out tiny seedlings is a tedious task. Purchasing plug plants allows gardeners the luxury of delegating the more difficult initial stages to the professional grower, who will then take over once the young plants are somewhat more established and are grown until they are ready to be potted up or planted into their final positions, each in its own plug of compost.
The size of the plug plants when you purchase them will determine how much work needs to be done on them and how much you will pay. Smaller animals cost less, but they often require more care.
- The first of the season, mini plugs begin to fill garden centers and nurseries in late February. These require the most care and consideration as they grow in trays or pots. Before planting out ready to flower, they must be transplanted and nurtured on a windowsill, in a greenhouse, or in a conservatory.
- The next step is standard plugs, which need to be potted and grown on for about a month if you want filler plants for beds and containers.
- Garden-ready plug plants are often healthy, established plants in pots that can be planted right away in their ultimate location in the garden. However, these plants may also benefit from being grown on for a few weeks in a large pot to give them time to develop more robust roots.
As soon as possible after purchasing, plug plants should be transplanted into larger pots or trays.
Just moisten your plants with water. The best way to accomplish this is to submerge them in water and let their roots absorb it.
Make a hole in the center of a tiny pot or seed tray with good quality, freely draining multipurpose compost that is roughly the same size as the plug plant. Pinch the plug’s bottom gently and push upward while holding it by the leaves. Place the root ball in the hole, making sure the stem is level with the surrounding compost as it was previously, and lightly compact the compost to seal the plug.
Water the newly planted plants gently, letting any extra water drain away. Put them in a place that is well-ventilated, well-lit, and somewhat warm, such a greenhouse or windowsill. Feed them a balanced liquid feed at 23 weeks, and then do it again every 10 to 14 days.
You can harden off your plants so they are ready to be planted outdoors once they are strong and well-grown. This only entails leaving them outside in a protected area during the day and bringing them inside at night to acclimate them to lower outdoor temperatures for a week or two. Keep them inside until the winter weather passes if the temperature falls below 5 C.
Your plugs should be prepared for planting out into their final position once the plants have established strong roots in the compost and the risk of frost has gone. One to two hours before planting, as well as once they are in place, give them a good soak. After planting, make sure to water frequently, especially during dry, sunny days.
How is a plug transplanted?
Young seedlings called flower plugs are created by sowing flower seeds in a cell-lined plate. The cells are tiny, separate compartments with one seed storage capacity apiece. In a greenhouse or other protected environment, flower plugs sprout. Before moving the flowers outside, the plugs require careful care.
For a few hours each day, leave the tray of flower plugs outside in the shade and away from the wind. After each exposure, bring them inside. Start exposing the plug tray to morning sunlight for a few hours after two days.
When the soil starts to dry out, mist the tray with water using a spray bottle. The flower plugs should spend more time outside until they spend the entire day outside. Leave the tray outside day and night for two weeks. If the temperature is below 49 degrees Fahrenheit at night, do not go outside.
A few weeks prior to transplanting the plugs, remove all of the grass and weeds from the planting area. Utilizing a shovel, uncover the earth to a depth of 8 inches. Deconstruct big dirt clumps and remove rocks.
Over the soil, dispense a 3- to 4-inch layer of organic material. Use peat moss, compost, chopped leaves, or dried grass clippings to enhance soil texture and drainage. Mix the additions into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil.
Distribute 2 pounds of 10-10-10 all-purpose fertilizer granules over a flower bed’s 100 square feet. The top 4 inches of soil should be worked with the fertilizer. Before planting, level the ground by raking.
To reach the root ball of the flower plug, stick your finger into the dirt. Pinch the bottom of the cell to remove the plug from its container. Place the flower plug’s root ball into the hole after gently pressing the soil around it. Depending on the type of flower, distribute the plugs accordingly.
While the flower plugs are getting used to being transplanted, moisten the soil and keep it moist. Don’t allow the blossoms to wilt because this can kill the tiny seedlings.