This attractive plant grows carefree and can tolerate practically any soil. It prefers soil that is humus-rich, loamy, a bit damp, and well-drained—not waterlogged or too saturated.
Cranesbills flourish in the soft shadow provided by high treetops, and they will grow best in areas with morning sun or partial shade.
A perennial with a long lifespan, its growth is modest in the first few years. The spectacle these plants put on, however, lasts from late spring through October after a mound has formed.
Furthermore, they gain from routine deadheading. By mid-summer, growth may be sluggish in some cultivars, and your chubby, attractive mound may appear somewhat worn out and lanky.
To renew, reduce the mound by half to promote fresh blooms and extend the growing season. To keep some blossoms while new growth develops, shear the plant in two, about two weeks apart, or do it all at once.
Seed collection, stem re-rooting in water, semi-ripe wood cuts in the summer, or root division in the fall or spring are all methods of propagation.
For blooms the next season, collect seeds all through the summer and then sow them in the spring or early summer.
Although deadheading keeps the plant compact, it also results in the loss of seedheads. Allow some pods to stay on the plant to mature in place if you want to start plants from seeds.
Cranesbill is one of the plants that may form roots in water due to stem rooting.
Recall all the teacups your grandmother had on her windowsill filled with plant cuttings? They might have been geraniums, for sure!
Cut the stem right below the node where the leaves join the stem with a sharp knife to ensure strong, healthy roots. Leave the top two or three leaves in place and remove the lower leaves. Remove all blooms as well; energy should be used to produce roots rather than seeds.
Put a number of cuttings in a clear container of water, and change the water as needed or every few days. In order to protect and shade the tender new roots, which typically emerge in 3–4 weeks, use an opaque container.
Place the container containing the cuttings on a bright windowsill or in a protected area of the garden that receives 2 to 6 hours of soft sunlight each day. The finest lighting is early morning or dappled shade.
Plant as for stem cuttings below once healthy roots reach a length of about 1-2 inches.
This year’s growth is chosen for the semi-ripe wood. The cuttings’ tips are still sensitive and green, but their bases will be older and harder. From mid-summer until mid-autumn, semi-ripe wood can be harvested whenever it is available.
Put root divisions and stem cuttings in little pots with a light, sandy potting soil. For a period of one to two years, or until they are old enough to be buried, you can also place them in a nursery bed.
How are cranesbill roots planted?
Place your geraniums in areas with good soil drainage and partial to moderate shade. 56 hours after a heavy rain, if you see pools of water, look for another location or increase the level 23 inches by amending the soil with organic material. Geraniums don’t care about the type of soil they are in, but they can’t live in wet ground or water that isn’t moving. After being established, these plants can withstand a little drought.
When to Plant
After the risk of frost has passed, spring is the best time to grow geraniums. Depending on the soil and air temperatures, anticipate top growth and more roots to form within a few weeks of planting. From late spring to summer, flowers will start to bloom.
How to Plant
- For planting in an outside setting, choose a location where the soil drains well and your geraniums will get some sun to some shade. Create holes in the ground, point the roots downward, and tuck them there. Put the growth points in the ground, and space the plants about 12 inches apart “apart.
- When planting in containers, pick a container that will fit your plants’ mature size and fill it with high-quality, well-drained soil. Almost any potting soil that is sold commercially will do. Make sure your containers have enough drainage holes because geraniums shouldn’t ever sit in damp soil. Create holes in the ground, point the roots downward, and tuck them there. Put the growth points in the ground, and space the plants about 12 inches apart “apart.
- After planting, give the earth a good soak to let the soil settle around the roots.
How to Grow
- If it doesn’t rain during the growing season, water occasionally, but remember that weekly thorough waterings are preferable to lighter drinks every day or two. During active growth times, the amount required is roughly 1″ of water every week.
- After the first round of flowers has faded, prune the plants by 25–50% to maintain their shape and promote a second round of color.
- When the foliage starts to wilt and fade in the late fall as the colder weather approaches, trim off any remaining leaves.
- Every third or fourth year, in the fall, cut the huge Geranium clusters in half vertically with a sharp spade.
- Share with friends or replant the divisions.
Geranium Tips & Tricks
- If necessary, add compost, finely crushed bark, or decomposed manure to the soil to increase the drainage.
- For variation, think about including other plants in your container, including small to medium Hostas or tuberous Begonias.
- Unless you are planting Sanguineum, which can withstand full sun in northern climates, give your geraniums some shade.
- Expect your geraniums to be delivered potted or “bare root,” which means the plant is dormant and the soil has been removed from the roots so you won’t have to worry about spreading any diseases from the soil to your yard.
- Keep in mind that after the fall foliage is removed, the following spring will bring fresh growth.
When should cranesbill be planted?
Among the most common garden perennials are hardy geraniums, sometimes known as cranesbills. And it’s clear why. They require little care and maintenance, are hardy, easy to grow, and tolerant of a variety of environmental factors.
The bloom color ranges from vibrant to subdued violet, blue, pink, magenta, and white hues, and many have appealing veining in a stronger, contrasting hue. Throughout the summer and well into autumn, several types flower nonstop for months at a time, and some even begin blooming as early as late April. When in bloom, the flowers, which are typically rather small, are produced in such great quantities that they almost completely cover the plants.
Numerous species’ hand-like foliage, which exhibits varied quilting, veining, and color blotching, is also very appealing in and of itself. Additionally, because many of the popularly cultivated kinds are low-growing, they make wonderful ground cover plants due to their dense, carpet-like leaf.
They should not be mistaken with the very similarly related pelargoniums, which aren’t and are primarily used as summer bedding plants, as they are cold- and frost-hardy.
Cultivation
There are kinds that can thrive in direct sunlight, light shade, and even pretty deep shadow. They generally thrive in early morning and late afternoon sun, while some, like Geranium sanguineum and Geranium pratense and their variants, grow well in full light as long as the soil has enough moisture.
Hardy geranium varieties
There is at least one hardy geranium for every garden, every gardener, and every circumstance as there are about 70 species and 700 types to choose from!
Here are the top 10 items that the Royal Horticultural Society suggests:
- Ann Folkard, geranium
- (Cinereum Group) Ballerina named Geranium
- Clarkei Kashmir White Geranium
- Red geraniums
- Theodora Mavis Simpson
- Ingersoll Orion
- The Mrs. Kendall Clark geranium
- Wageningen’s Geranium x oxonianum
- Renardii geranium
- Jolly Bee and Geranium Rozanne (Gerwat)
Planting hardy geraniums
Hardy geraniums can be planted at any time of year, but planting in the fall or winter will ensure that the plants take root effectively and provide an abundance of flowers in their first season. For planting from late autumn to late winter, mail-order vendors often offer bare-rooted plants.
Make a hole that is sufficiently large to readily fit the rootball. Fork in a layer of organic material, such as compost or planting compost, at the bottom of the hole.
Place the rootball in the planting hole, adjusting the planting depth until the rootball’s top is level with the soil and the rootball is planted at the same depth as it was growing initially.
Fill the planting hole with the excavated soil after adding more organic matter to it. To maintain soil moisture and aid in weed control, thoroughly water the area around the tree, then sprinkle a granular general feed over the surrounding soil. Finally, put a 5-7.5cm (2-3in) deep mulch of well-rotted garden compost or bark chips around the tree’s root area.
How to care for hardy geraniums
The majority of hardy geraniums are undemanding, low-maintenance plants.
When the weather is dry during the first year, water thoroughly. To maintain healthy plant growth in succeeding years, watering may be required during extended dry spells.
Late spring mulching around the plants will assist retain soil moisture and control weed growth.
Plants may start to seem messy with sloppy growth after the first early flush of blossoms has faded. After the initial flowering, the majority benefit from a trim to freshen the foliage and promote more blooms. To get rid of the outdated, messy growth, just cut the plants with a pair of shears or secateurs, or more forcefully if necessary, to a height of 5-7.5cm (2-3in) above the ground.
Then feed them with a liquid plant food to promote new growth and additional flowering flushes. After each flowering, pruning and fertilizing can be done again to extend the flowering season of many kinds well into the fall.
With the arrival of colder weather in late autumn, most geraniums’ foliage will start to fade. If you trim the plants’ leftover stems and leaves, they’ll grow new, fresh growth the following spring.
Over time, hardy geranium plants expand, spread, and form large clumps. These can be chopped into halves or quarters with a sharp spade. This can be done in the spring when they begin to grow or in the autumn. Every three to five years, divide them to maintain good growth and flowering.
Size & Growth
Although the height of cranesbills varies depending on the species, they often fall under the category of higher shrubs and can grow anywhere between 12 and 20 inches in a year.
However, they have a spread of typically between 18 and 24 inches and are mounding plants.
Although the plants are native to temperate regions, they are extensively grown under similar circumstances all over the world.
Hardy geraniums can be identified by their dark green, citrus-flavored leaves, which is why they are sometimes called scented geraniums.
These plants’ autumnal foliage, which consists of a mixture of brown, golden, burnished bronze, and red hues, produces a stunning display.
Flowering and Fragrance
Beautiful flowers in white, purple, magenta, lilac, blue, violet-blue, and pink hues are produced by the plants in the summer.
The blooming season for many cranesbill species begins in late spring and lasts into late October.
These geranium types are a popular choice for gardens because of their lovely bloom hues.
Light & Temperature
True geraniums thrive in full sun, but they also like midday part shade.
The optimum locations for these plants are those that provide them with morning sunlight and afternoon mild shade.
Watering Requirements and Feeding
However, be careful not to overwater as they cannot thrive in soil that is saturated with water or has standing water.
When the new foliage is just beginning to emerge in the early spring, the flowering perennial plant species benefit from a yearly feeding with a balanced 10-20-10 fertilizer.
After mid-summer deadheading, the fertilizer should be administered again as soon as the plants begin to produce new growth.
These geranium species shouldn’t receive any more fertilizer than this because excessive fertilization frequently results in sprawling and lanky growth.
How far apart should cranesbill plants be planted?
According to the University of Illinois Extension, hardy geraniums bloom in a range of hues in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8. Cranesbills typically form mounds that are up to 3 feet wide and 12 to 18 inches tall, making them ideal for a wildflower border or a rock garden. In warmer climates, the plants may bloom once again if you prune them back in the fall.
To ensure proper air circulation, give cranesbills at least 6 inches more space than their mature width from the center of the plant to each adjoining plant’s maturity outline, which should be between 18 inches and 3 1/2 feet. Divide the crowns that form around the parent plant if the plants are too big, and then replant them with the same distance between them.
How far apart should hardy geraniums be planted?
Late spring to early summer, with some flowers reblooming all summer long in hues including white, blue, and pink.
Actually, geraniums aren’t geraniums. The annual flower Pelargonium is what most gardeners mean by geranium. I discuss them in the annuals chapter. In New England, true geraniums are hardy perennials with low growth and free flowering that come in hues like blue, white, and pink. Due to the seedpod’s resemblance to the bill of this bird, they are also known as cranesbill geraniums. The flowers develop above the lobed foliage and bloom intermittently throughout the summer. Deadhead the plant on a regular basis. This rambunctious plant extends out a few feet, but pruning and division control it. Bees and butterflies are drawn to the tiny, cup-shaped flowers.
Grow resilient geraniums all around New England. After all risk of frost has past, plant locally acquired transplants or divisions from a friend’s garden in the spring till early October. Although they will still bloom in partial shade and on clay soils, they grow and bloom best in full sun on well-drained, compost-amended soil. In beds, leave a foot between plants.
Each spring, plant hardy geraniums with a layer of compost and lots of water and fertilizer. Mulch around plant bases to prevent weed growth and maintain moisture in the soil.
If deadheaded and pruned after the initial blooming time, hardy geraniums will produce flowers again. If plants are divided every three to four years, they appear neater and blossom better. Dig up the cluster in the spring and separate out 1-foot-diameter portions for replanting or sharing. One of the most low-maintenance perennial plants you can cultivate in your garden is a hardy geranium. However, they are susceptible to powdery mildew in partial shade or during humid summers. To lessen the prevalence of this illness, keep plants clipped, spaced far apart, and clear away the fallen leaves in the fall.
In the perennial garden, hardy geraniums make excellent filler plants. They can fill in next to plants that have done flowering, like peonies and iris, or they can enhance other summer blooming plants, like roses, daylilies, and coreopsis. This is because they sprawl and flower in the summer. Keep hardy geranium trimmed so they don’t look too untidy if you plant them in the front of your flower bed. More trailing plants can be planted along a wall to cascade over the top.
My preferred hardy geranium variety is “Rozanne. This cultivar bears violet-blue flowers on a 2-foot-tall plant.” “Ann Folkard is a magenta colored flower kind that barely grows 8 inches tall and is ideal in a rock garden or along a wall. Johnson’s Blue is another similarly small blue blooming variation. White blooms grow on 12-inch-tall plants in the album.