Taking cuttings from your existing plants is another approach to overwinter annuals and the only practical method for true annuals. For delicate perennials like coleus and begonia that do not adapt well to transplanting, this may also be the best method.
Take a Cutting
Take 3- to 5-inch cuttings from plants that are actively developing in the middle to end of the summer. (Some plants can still be pruned into mid-fall.) Take the cuttings from non-flowering shoots if at all possible. If you must remove them from flowering shoots, remove any blooms or buds from each cutting by cutting or pinching them off. The cutting will be able to focus its efforts on growing roots as a result.
Root the Cutting
Each cutting should have the lower half of its leaves removed. The bottom third of the stem should then be inserted into a pot of moist potting soil. Although most cuttings will root without it, you can dip the cut end in rooting hormone if you choose.
Gardening Tip
If the cuttings are merely suspended in a glass of water until a strong root system forms, some plants will root rather successfully. Plants that readily take root in this manner include begonia, coleus, and impatiens. However, when roots are grown using this procedure and then moved to potting soil, they occasionally may not adapt well. The preferable technique, in the opinion of many, is to root plants in potting soil from the start.
Cover the Cutting
To keep the plastic off the plant, place a plastic bag over the pot and support it with skewers, twigs, or stakes. Set the pot somewhere where there is a lot of bright indirect light, but preferably not in the sun.
Wait for Roots
Keep an eye on the covered pot. Maintain the potting soil at a light mist but avoid saturation. Open the plastic briefly to let the moisture escape if condensation forms on it. The cuttings should root in three to four weeks. If you pull on the cutting and it resists your pressure, the root system has established. The pot can then be placed in a sunny window or under grow lights after the plastic bag has been removed. To continue developing the rooted cutting, you can transfer it into a bigger pot.
Care for the Plant
As with any indoor plant, care for your overwintering plants. Make sure they receive adequate light, water them in accordance with the needs of their species, and keep a watch out for any insect or disease issues. Typically, they won’t require food throughout the winter. However, if you’d like, you can begin providing them with a liquid meal, like vermicompost tea, in the late winter or early spring.
Move the Plant Back Outdoors
Give your newly rooted plants some time to adjust to outside conditions before relocating them there permanently when it’s time to relocate them back outside. Move the pot outside each day for an increasing number of hours after the threat of frost has passed. Spend at least a week doing this. After that, you have two options: either keep your plants in their outside containers or grow them in your garden.
Gathering seeds from your garden annuals and starting them indoors throughout the winter is another way to “overwinter.” This procedure has varying degrees of success because some hybrid plants do not “come true” when their seeds are sown because their seeds have a different genetic makeup than the parent plant. Other delicate perennials develop so slowly that starting them from collected seeds would not be practical. However, certain popular genuine annuals, like zinnias and snapdragons, are relatively simple to multiply in this manner. Simply keep the small seeds from flower heads that have finished maturing and collect them to plant indoors in potting soil or seed starter soil about two months before the last winter or spring frost. These species grow so quickly that it’s simple to create a nice crop of seedling plants to put outside in the spring.
Can you keep zinnias during the winter?
A: Last year around this time, I brought several annual plants indoors, including geraniums, ivy geraniums, a lovely lantana, a sun fuchsia, and a begonia called “Dragon Wing.” All performed admirably this year and helped me save a ton of money. They occupy so much room in the house, which is a concern. Can I simply leave all of these plants inside my unheated garage for the winter? There is some light coming in through a few windows, but January is still quite cold there. Do you know which of these “annuals” can withstand colder temperatures than others?
A few supposedly annual plants dormantize throughout the winter and can live in an unheated garage. With ‘Black and Blue’ salvia, geraniums, and agapanthus, I’ve done that myself.
I keep the plants in their containers, relocate the containers to the garage, and trim the foliage once it becomes brown. About twice during the winter, I give them a tiny bit of water—just enough to prevent the roots from drying out completely, but not enough to encourage new growth. Light is not required.
Although my garage certainly experiences below-freezing temps, these more cold-tolerant species have never died from the cold. To be on the safe side, store the pots against a heated wall or, at the very least, away from the garage door, which is likely the coldest place.
With some other annuals, including lantana, dusty miller, and salvia, which can withstand at least a little frost, you can definitely get away with it. Even dusty millers have spent the last two winters outside in the ground.
However, the majority of “annuals” are either 1. warm-climate perennials that will perish at or just before the first frost, or 2. “True” annuals that will perish at the end of the first year after setting seed.
If you keep species like begonias, coleus, fuchsia, Persian shield, and the majority of houseplants above freezing, they can survive the winter. When the temperature falls below 40, some begin to experience problems. Therefore, bring them indoors during the next few weeks.
Even if you try to milk true annuals like vinca, zinnias, and marigolds through the winter, they will eventually die.
Take the most delicate plants that you truly don’t want to risk losing indoors if you don’t have enough room, and keep the remaining plants in pots, soil, or the garage. I believe there is a strong probability that many species would survive, especially with a warm winter like the one we experienced last year.
Taking cuttings later in the season allows me to store smaller “babies” throughout the winter rather than full-sized plants, which helps me conserve space on the more delicate plants.
What should you do with annuals in pots throughout the winter?
Gardeners admire some of their gorgeous annuals in the fall and wish there was a way to keep them. Then, every spring, they lament having to spend money on the same plants they had to throw out the fall before. Some annuals can be overwintering to recover like Phoenix the next season.
Some restrictions apply. They will have a terrible wintertime appearance due to frequent leaf loss and legginess. Different plants require different amounts of light. Depending on the annual, the technique can modify or stop working altogether.
It’s simple and takes up minimal room to save vines. Cut Tradescantia and other herbaceous vines into 8-inch pieces, remove the bottom two thirds of the leaves, and root the pieces in water. About once each month, change the water. Repeat the process in the spring when the tips are actively producing new growth, discarding the old vine and establishing the new tips. Once they have rooted, plant this fresh growth. For the winter, woody vines can be dug up and placed in pots as indoor plants. Start afresh by establishing some cuttings in water as previously mentioned when the base becomes too big and woody after a number of years.
There are two techniques to preserve large container-grown annuals like geranium, diamond frost euphorbia, and mandevilla. You can keep them alive as houseplants if you have a room with plenty of windows in the south or a sunroom that receives a lot of light. Up until the longer days of March, they will remain disorganized, slowly losing their leaves, and producing little blossoms. Reduce water usage and hold off on fertilizing until they start to sprout new growth. When that occurs, cut them down by a third or more in preparation for the upcoming growing season.
The second method is less work-intensive and keeps them out of the house. They can be kept in a shed or garage that occasionally gets chilly but never freezes. They’ll survive the winter as active yet partially dormant plants. Don’t allow the potting media to dry out and pull away from the pot’s edges; keep the soil barely damp. Trim them back to 4 to 6 inches in the spring when other indoor plants begin to develop. Mandevilla can stay for a while. Until it is safe to transfer them outside, start providing them with additional light.
The huge annuals’ potting soil will become hard and compacted after three or four years. Remove the plant from its container in the spring and make a decision then. Shake off the old soil, if you can, and repot the plant in the same pot with new soil and a slightly larger container, or trim the roots.
Petunias, marigolds, snapdragons, and other bedding annuals don’t work very well to be saved, and at $2 for 4 or 6 pack, the trouble, space, and mess are hardly worth it. It is preferable to begin with fresh transplants in the spring.
ABOUT EXTENSION: Illinois Extension is the University of Illinois’ public outreach arm. It does this by transforming research into action plans that help families, businesses, and community leaders in Illinois solve issues, make wise decisions, and adjust to new situations and opportunities.
Can annuals be brought indoors for the winter?
Although annuals can be cultivated indoors year-round, they are typically brought inside to avoid a deadly frost. You can save money by overwintering annuals inside by avoiding the need to purchase fresh plants or seeds every spring.
Some annuals easily reproduce, thus there is little advantage to overwintering them. Others will continue to grow as long as they aren’t exposed to freezing temperatures by sending up new shoots. Even while some advice varies depending on the species, following a few general rules will enable you to take care of a variety of annuals indoors at any time of the year.
Can perennials survive the winter in pots?
If you have spent the effort planning, planting, and caring for your perennial container garden during the entire growing season, you probably want to overwinter it. However, other gardeners prefer to treat perennials like annuals and chuck them out once the growing season is finished. Others decide to move their perennials in containers into the garden for the winter before starting again with new plants in the spring. Your decision is yours. Continue reading if you want to try overwintering.
Why do containerized perennials require special treatment to overwinter successfully?
- Perennial plants dislike temperature changes that are stronger above ground than below it.
- The risk of harm is higher when perennials are grown in pots because they are less cold-hardy.
- Remember that your chances of successfully overwintering increase with pot size. This is so that the roots can be protected from freezing and desiccating by a larger volume of soil in a larger pot.
- Perennials typically have an easier time surviving the winter in warmer climates or regions with a consistent, heavy layer of snow cover. It takes more effort to get them to survive the winter in the north and in locations with erratic snow cover.
No of your climate, give containerized perennials a good watering just before the ground freezes so they have a supply on hand for the warm winter months. If overwintering under cover, you can also occasionally add a few handfuls of snow to the top of the container; if the temperature rises sufficiently for it to melt, this will provide the plants extra water.
Despite this, many perennials grown in containers do not make it through the winter because they drown from receiving too much water. The roots sit in water until the soil thaws completely and the water can drain out of the pot via the drainage hole at the bottom when the pot accumulates water at the top but the soil is still frozen at the bottom. Water, especially ice cold water in the winter, is not good for roots to sit in. To prevent this from happening, overwinter your perennials in containers on their sides so that water cannot collect at the top of the pot or overwinter them under cover where they won’t receive much water over the winter or the first few weeks of spring before the soil thaws.
Overwintering Techniques
On the best way to overwinter perennials in containers, there are several different schools of thought. Some of the techniques listed here might be effective in your climate, while others might not. The best approach to figure out what will work for you is to experiment.
- The majority opinion seems to be that burying the entire pot in the ground is the best approach to overwinter perennials grown in containers. The roots are safeguarded in this manner, just as they would be if the plants were genuinely buried in a garden. Just be careful not to keep the pot in the ground for an excessive amount of time in the spring, as this may cause the roots to start growing out of the drainage holes and securing the pot to the earth.
- After the first severe frost, you can overwinter them by putting the pots in a cold frame or an unheated garage for the winter. Don’t overwinter perennials in a greenhouse or another warm location where plants won’t fall dormant because all perennials need a time of dormancy or a cold treatment to blossom.
- If you are overwintering your containers outdoors, arrange them together as closely as you can in a protected spot on the ground. In this manner, the soil’s heat and moisture can be absorbed by the pots. A excellent location is often on the east side of the home. Never store the containers over the winter on a deck, paved area, or any other surface that is elevated from the ground. Perennials in containers that are exposed on higher levels throughout the winter have a poor probability of successfully overwintering.
- The pots will require some form of insulating material to be placed on top of them. Try piling evergreen boughs or leaves on top of the pots, then cover everything with a heavy blanket of snow. Use an insulating blanket designed specifically for this if snowfall is unreliable where you live. For further security, you may also consider wrapping the pots themselves in an insulating material.
When the season is over, what should you do with zinnias?
One of the simplest flowers to plant, zinnias grow quickly and provide a lot of blooms. Additionally, they will continue to bloom right up until the first fall hard frost. Consider trying zinnia flowers this year to add a huge splash of color to your yard.
About Zinnias
Since zinnias are annuals, they will only produce blooms and seeds for one season before dying. The original plant will not reappear the following year. They are excellent for use as a cutting flower or as food for butterflies since they have vivid, solitary, daisy-like flowerheads on a single, tall stem.
Types of Zinnias
Zinnia elegans, the most widely grown zinnia species, has been developed to produce a large number of distinctive variants.
Single, semidouble, or double zinnia blooms are the three most common varieties. The number of petal rows and whether or not the flower’s center is visible serve to distinguish between these forms:
- A single row of petals and the center are both visible on single-flowered zinnias.
- Petal rows abound on double-flowered zinnias, and their centers are hidden.
- Between the two are semidouble-flowered zinnias, which have several rows of petals but discernible cores.
In addition to these shapes, zinnia flowers also occur in “beehive,” “button,” and “cactus” forms. Additionally, the plants themselves come in various heights: taller types function best as a garden bed’s background, while shorter varieties are useful as a border. There is a zinnia for every garden, in fact!
In an annual or mixed border garden, plant zinnias. Smaller zinnias work well as window boxes, edging, or in other containers.
To have a lot of flowers all season long, choose a place that receives full sun (6 to 8 hours of sunlight every day). Additionally, later in the season, foliar diseases like powdery mildew can be avoided by planting in an area with sufficient air circulation.
Although zinnias can grow in a variety of soil types, they prefer organically rich, well-draining soil. The optimal pH range for soil is between 5.5 and 7.5. The blooms will grow more quickly if compost (humus) is added to the soil. Find out more about soil improvements and getting the soil ready for planting.
When to Plant Zinnias
- Because they dislike being transplanted, it is advised that you start your zinnia plants from seed directly in the garden bed. If the correct circumstances are present, they will develop quite quickly from seed.
- It should be noted that zinnias can be grown from seed inside if you like. Just make sure to transfer them gently and young.
- Because zinnias are delicate to frost, wait to plant them until after the last frost in your area. See the frost dates in your area.
- Zinnias can tolerate daily temperatures as low as 60F (16C), although a range of 7484F (2328C) is ideal.
- To prolong the flowering time, sow a new crop of seeds every week or so for a few weeks.
How to Plant Zinnias
- Depending on the kind, place plants 4 to 24 inches apart. (Many common kinds are planted 2 feet between rows and 6 inches apart within the row.) For information about each variety, consult the seed packet’s back.
- Plant zinnia seeds no deeper than 1/4 inch.
- The majority of zinnia cultivars will produce seedlings in just 4 to 7 days, but it may take up to two months or more for blooms to appear (depending on planting site and climate).
- To promote air circulation, thin seedlings when they are three inches tall, spacing them 6 to 18 inches apart. As a result, powdery mildew is less likely to grow.
- To promote development and blossoms, keep the soil’s moisture level moderate and apply a mild fertilizer.
- Deadhead zinnias once they have finished blooming to facilitate the development of new blossoms.
- Since zinnias are annuals, they will perish with the first fall hard cold. Let the final blooms of the season fully mature before dispersing their seeds if you want them to reseed.
Zinnias still not your thing? In your garden, try them out for the following six reasons:
- With cultivars from the Dreamland Series, you can have a full-sized flower on a little plant. These zinnias are compact and dwarf, with stems that are 812 inches tall and totally double flowerheads that can be up to 4 inches across with a variety of colors.
- The dwarf, spreading cultivars of the Thumbelina Series have weather-resistant, solitary or semi-double flowerheads in a variety of hues. Their stems can reach a length of 6 inches, and their petals are 1-1/4″ wide.
- One of the largest and tallest of them all, the State Fair Series has huge, double flowerheads that measure 3 inches in diameter. Stems can reach a height of 30 inches.
- Typically, it takes zinnias 60 to 70 days from seed to flower (though it depends on conditions and variety). They are fantastic in a bunch of flowers!
- The tiny, narrow-leafed zinnias are great for hanging baskets and also make lovely dried flowers.
- Zinnias are considered to represent memories of those who have passed away. Discover more about the significance of flowers here.
- Zinnias may be harmed by bacterial wilt, powdery mildew, and bacterial and fungal spots. To prevent illness, keep leaves from getting too damp and correctly space your plants.
- Problems can also be brought on by caterpillars, mealybugs, and spider mites. Spraying should be avoided unless there is a real infestation because some leaf damage is not a problem.
- Thanks to their resistance to deer, zinnias may be able to prevent surrounding flowers from being eaten.