Change the water in the zinnia vase every two to three days to encourage long vase life. The vase should then be taken out after being checked for bacterial growth. Just as clean as when you first assembled your zinnia arrangement, your vase should be. Refill the container with warm water once more while adding commercial or home-made floral preservative.
To encourage hydration and stop sap loss, recut the stems of the zinnias on an angle and scald them once more before placing them back in the vase. Take off any wilted or otherwise unappealing foliage beneath the blooms. Remove any wilted flowers as well so that water can be directed to vibrant blooming.
Before your zinnias can no longer be revived, you should be able to change the water a couple of times. Go outside once they have finished and cut a fresh bouquet of zinnias. You may take advantage of freshly cut zinnia bouquets all during the blooming season with the right upkeep and care.
What is the vase life of zinnias?
Zinnia seeds can still be planted now for late summer color that will endure until the first frost. Additionally, they produce stunning cut flowers with a lengthy vase life.
Even the most inexperienced gardener should grow zinnias because they are one of the tried-and-true garden flowers. My first memories of gardening are when I first encountered zinnias. The bush beans and tomatoes set aside for zinnias were a constant source of conflict. My favorite annual flower is still the zinnia, and they now have a prime location next to my back deck where I can enjoy them in the warm weather.
Growing zinnias is simple; they prefer full sunlight and well-drained soil. They may be planted directly in the garden or transferred. Plant them in a peat pot that can be placed directly into the garden or planting bed if you decide to have a head start and want to transplant so as to avoid disturbing the roots.
There are many different types of zinnias. They come in sizes ranging from 6 inches to nearly 4 feet, from dwarf to enormous. The flower heads are available in many different forms, including single and double flowers, spidery shapes, and domes.
The amazing variety of hues is the best feature. The palest pastel hues to the brightest hues are all available in zinnias. They come in solid, multicolored, striped, and specked patterns.
Dead heading zinnias is advised by Michigan State University Extension to ensure flowering from early summer through frost. Zinnias are encouraged to continue performing by dead heading throughout the season. But because zinnias fatigue, I advise putting them in succession every two weeks. I intend to plant in succession beginning in late May and continuing until the first week of July, roughly. This ensures spectacular blooms through the end of September. It’s not too late to plant some zinnia seeds for color that will persist through the first frost in the late summer.
In addition to their amazing garden display, zinnias make fantastic cut flowers and may be used anywhere you need a splash of color. Many zinnia cultivars can stay in a vase for seven to twelve days. The mainstay of the farmer’s market is zinnias as well. Flower farmers would tell that zinnias are one of the most profitable flowers to grow due to their vibrant colors, ease of maintenance, and extended vase life.
The zinnia variants “Benary’s Giant” and “Cut and Come Again” are two of my favorites. Their surnames are biographical. On tall stems that stand between 40 and 52 inches in height, “Benary’s Giant” has huge blooms and dazzling flowers. Cutting the stem just above a bud junction will encourage “Cut and Come Again” to produce continuously throughout the growing season, as will all zinnias.
How can you make cut zinnias last longer?
The extreme heat and dry conditions have forced many growers to scramble to tend to and harvest their stressed fields and gardens, including here on our farm in the Skagit Valley and throughout much of the Western United States. While many flowers bloom profusely in this kind of weather, it is crucial to know the optimum times to harvest and ways to care for your fresh cut blooms immediately after they are cut if you want your flowers to last as long as possible—especially with the added stress of high temperatures. (This is referred to as “stage of harvest” and “post-harvest handling” in the language of flower farmers.)
Here are some of my favorite hints for avoiding heat waves and getting the longest vase life possible from 10 high summer flower varietals.
Zinnias: To ensure a long vase life, zinnias must be harvested at the proper time. Wait too long, and the blossoms will swiftly fade; harvest too soon, and the stalks will sag and droop. The “wiggle test” is a pretty easy way to determine whether your zinnias are ready for harvest. Simply take hold of the stalk a few inches below the flower and gently shake it. The stem will be delicate and flexible if it is young. When you wriggle the stem, it should stay rigid and straight if the plant is ready to be harvested. Cut time has come! To create a long, sturdy stem, deeply cut the plant. Don’t be hesitant to clip off lateral sprouts on the main stem you just plucked; remove the foliage as well. Because zinnias are “cut and come again” flowers, they will continue to grow all season long even after being severely pruned.
We cut zinnias and place them directly into clean, fresh water that has either been supplemented with a drop of chlorine or a CVBn pill. The little conditioning pills, which are frequently marketed for gerber daisies, are actually ideal for all of the “dirty flowers with hairy stems that easily gather dirt and bacteria that can muddy up the water.” The hottest time of the year is when zinnias blossom continuously, and they also enjoy heat throughout the post-harvest period. One of the few flowers we don’t treat in the cooler before delivery or design work is this one. Simply said, we keep them out of direct sunlight in a dark, shaded area of our studio. These few easy steps will give you gorgeous, long-lasting blossoms that last 7–10 days in a vase.
Note: In general, certified organic agriculture does not permit the use of commercial flower food. Using bleach or hot water and harvesting at the right stage are crucial if you have certification. To give your flowers the longest possible vase life even if you are not certified organic, CVBn tablets and other hydration and conditioning options are worth the extra money.
Basil: During the height of the summer, we nearly always add at least one or two stems of Cardinal, Oriental Breeze, Lemon, or Cinnamon basil in our mixed bouquets of flowers for grocery store clients. When the flower heads start to appear and the stems start to harden, I pick the basil. To keep them from wilting, I treat them with Quick Dip (a non-organic alternative) or boiling water (an organic alternative). As these plants wilt quickly, be cautious to harvest them in the cool of the morning or evening. Basil doesn’t like the cold, just like zinnias, so keep them out of the refrigerator to finish their conditioning. The vase is frequently where stems root, and they should last 7 to 10 days.
The fuzzy, aromatic leaves of scented geraniums are a must-have for bouquets, but if you don’t take a few simple precautions, they could wilt easily. In order to avoid the heat of the day, I always attempt to trim the scented geraniums first thing in the morning. I sliced them, placed them in cool water, and gave them 3–4 hours to rest and condition before arranging them. Dip the bottom 2-3 in boiling water for 5-7 seconds or dip the stems in Quick Dip if they are still wilting.
Another flower that is prone to wilting is the hydrangea. Perhaps more significant than the harvesting stage is how you hydrate the produce after it has been sliced. My secret is to cut them when they are still chilly, use Quick Dip quick hydration solution, or cut them into hot water for organic production. I am familiar with some flower growers who swear by dipping the just-cut stems in alum powder (found in the grocery store’s spice aisle), while others would soak the entire bloom in water before use to prevent wilting.
Cosmos: Cosmos generally don’t have a very long vase life, but if you cut them at the proper point, you can extend their beauty. Cosmos should be cut when just one petal is beginning to unfold, and once that happens, let the vase’s other buds and blossoms bloom.
Sunflowers: Harvesting the blooms just as the first few petals begin to lift off of the central disk and removing all but the top few leaves will give your sunflowers the longest vase life possible. This can be challenging for beginners since it still appears to be “closed” and not ready to pick, but if you cut them early, you can prevent bug damage and enjoy longer vase life. These people, who are referred to as “dirty flowers,” may benefit from some bleach in the water or from being cut into a pail of water that has been CVBn-treated.
Celosia: When harvesting crested celosias, also known as “cock’s comb,” wait until the crests are fully grown (or a bit sooner is good too), but before the plant begins to produce seeds. Before plucking celosias with feathers, let them stretch and become feathery. Make sure to remove around 3/4 of the leaves after cutting and submerge them in cool water.
Cerinthe: Harvest during the coldest part of the day, then immediately treat stems by putting the bottom 2-3 inches in boiling water for 7–10 seconds, followed by a cool water bath. After harvest, stems become extremely floppy, but once hydrated, Cerinthe can last up to a week in a vase.
Harvest rudbeckia when the flowers start to unfold. Black Eyed Susans are infamous for fast turning their water murky. By reducing this and extending their vase life, you can expect a vase life of 7 to 10 days by adding a few drops of bleach to the water.
If you have any more advice or methods for gathering high summer blossoms and extending their vase life, please let me know. Please share any more advice in the section below.
Are zinnias used by florists?
One of the few gateway flowers that started me down the path of cultivating cut flowers was the zinnia. You would be aware that when I first started producing veggies, I exclusively grew flowers for companion planting if you had read any of my previous writings. If you haven’t been following my previous blog postings (and who wouldn’t? ), I’ll explain. Here is a brief summary:
I had made an effort to focus on cultivating flowers that would assist my veggies in some way, whether it be medicinal, gastronomic, or through partner planting (if you want to know my top five flowers to grow in your vegetable garden read my blog here). (I know, it’s like you don’t even know me!) Fresh flowers weren’t a top concern. With the exception of their potential usefulness to pollinators, zinnias weren’t really on the list. Since I’ve always adored the zinnias in my in-garden, law’s I couldn’t help but buy that Burpee packet of zinnias.
Let me also tell you. I bought that zinnia seed packet really late in July. Do you recognize the bravery in that? possibly the idiocy. When someone informed me it was too late, I assumed they were probably correct, but what could it hurt for a few dollars? I had a lucky year. It also gave me the impression that cultivating zinnias would be simple going forward. They ought to be simple. They grow quickly, can be planted directly, and aren’t as voracious as some other flowers. Yes, it’s simple. they were in their first year! Man, I picked those folks up till November of that particular year. That small arrangement of salvia, marigolds, zinnias, and snippets of calendula inspired me.
Yes, I’ll demonstrate that configuration once more. I received a fistful of flowers in a vase from my sister-in-law who had delivered flowers for my birthday a few months earlier. She gave me some flowers and a straightforward hourglass vase, which I treasured. Her gift had changed that frigid November night into something different. My life changed and became something new. It was those zinnias.
It’s crazy! It always astounds me how much the flowers and I have changed when I go down memory lane with the flowers.
Even though I adored zinnias that year, I had grown to dislike them over the previous few years. True, it’s crazy! Who could be against simple-to-grow, prolific flowers? Me. The three flowers cosmos, sunflowers, and zinnias are listed as the basic package for a flower farmer when you search “start flower farming” on Google. Foolproof. Not earwig and frost proof, that is.
We have seen early and then late frosts during the past few years. Even when planting zinnias outside while according to the Carson Valley golden rule for tomatoes (for those unfamiliar with our local regulations, plant after Carson Valley days). My poor zinnias were still stunted, purple, or blackened by it. The earwigs chewed, nibbled, and eventually scarfed down the ones that did live. The earwigs proceeded to eat their petals after the sad few that passed that test. I obviously didn’t have as many zinnias as I had hoped.
I was annoyed. Heartbroken. I was prepared to give up on the zinnias, but Graham persisted in reassuring me that they would be worthwhile with a little perseverance and good fortune.
I have lovely zinnias this year! It was the magnificent queen lime series, not just ordinary zinnias. I can only grow so many different kinds because to my restricted space, so I just grow what I enjoy (and I hope you do too!). Some cultivators adore the queen lime varieties, while others don’t. It’s me, camp love. Each flower is unique and has lovely coloration that occasionally even seems vintage! Additionally, I can never have enough flowers that serve as a unifying element in my design work. These “bridge” colors provide a pleasing flow and bridge the gap between other hues that would otherwise be glaring. I have to admit that this year, “Queen Lime Orange,” with her sherbet-colored designs, has definitely won my heart.
Enough with the philosophical ramblings. Talk about zinnias now. Like the majority of our favorite heat-loving flowers, zinnias are native to Mexico. This explains why they dislike frosts but thrive in our summer heat. The Aztecs raised zinnia plants. Not shocking. The Aztecs were masters at cultivating and raising a wide variety of favored crops (like amaranth and tomatillos). Eventually, zinnias were introduced to Europe, where they received the name we now use for them—Professor Zinn, a botanist.
So how do you raise these gorgeous plants? This section is really simple. Prior to the last frost in your area (about four weeks), you can start them indoors. You can direct seed them in the garden after the last frost. Sow new seeds every four weeks for a constant summer crop. Pro tip: don’t let them get root bound if you want those fluffy double zinnias instead of those nasty singles! Is the weather not permitting you to plant outside? Boost them. It will be rewarding.
Zinnias enjoy direct sunlight because they enjoy the heat! Plant in well-draining soil and use drip irrigation for optimal results. Powdery mildew and rust are only a couple of the diseases that can be brought on by overhead spraying. Ick. Beware of my enemies, the earwigs, and ravenous caterpillars! They will chomp those delicate seedlings to the ground, especially. Just seed again if they are indeed devoured! What do you have to lose? You will win in the end! Read my Nitty Gritty blogs on Battling Earwigs and Natural Pest Control Part I and Part II to discover how to get rid of different pests organically.
Zinnia harvesting can be a little challenging. Harvest early in the morning, and do the “wiggle test,” to prevent them from falling limp on you one hour after harvest.
This wiggling test is what? A rain dance of some sort? Not exactly. When doing the wiggle test, carefully grab the zinnia about midway down the stem and shake it back and forth. The zinnia is not ripe for harvest if the neck flops. Harvest the zinnia if its neck is rigid. When zinnias are harvested too early, the outcome is limp, lifeless blossoms. Be patient, then!
Another picky flower that doesn’t like using store-bought flower food is the zinnia. They are also regarded as “dirty flowers” since their hairy stems quickly make the water smelly, thus placing them in plain water isn’t the best option. The amount of germs can be reduced by adding a tablet of CVBN or a splash of bleach to the container. You may also prepare your own flower food at home by using this recipe, which I prefer.
Zinnias should last around five days in a vase with adequate care. The wonderful thing about zinnias is that they bloom more the more you cut them! Therefore, be sure to routinely deadhead or trim away. Don’t be afraid to cut deeply from the plant for the optimum stem lengths during the entire growing season. You will acquire more useful stems the deeper the incision. Your forearm’s length approximately constitutes a nice length. I know, it sounds scary. Try it; you won’t regret it!
Although zinnias are lovely, I wouldn’t suggest using them for boutonnieres or corsages. Use the unopened bud or insert a damp cotton ball into their hollow stem if you must have them. These guys hate being left without water!
I hope you incorporate a few of these lovely blossoms into your cutting garden now that summer is just around the corner!
The Lowdown:
Seeds can be directly sown after the last frost or started 4 weeks beforehand; germination takes 3–7 days. To improve the yield of fluffy doubles, avoid letting the plants get root-bound.
Every three to four weeks, we sow a succession; we try for a minimum of two, and three if we can.
Extremely sensitive to frost; if your region frequently experiences late frosts (like ours! ), plant beneath a double row cover or at the very least, frost cloth. In our region, we start planting in early May.
Plant Spacing: 6–9 (we suggest 8); take note that disease may spread more readily the closer the spacing.
It is possible for seemingly healthy zinnias to be picked and turn to mush within 24 hours due to a certain bacteria. A CVBN pill might be useful. Holding zinnias for at least 24 hours after harvest will help to prevent zinnia meltdown.
Pests include grasshoppers, cucumber beetles, Japanese beetles, earwigs, blister beetles, aphids, mites, and spider mites. be vulnerable to harmful nematodes.
Storage: Does not keep well in a refrigerator below 45 degrees F. (like most warm loving flowers). Maximum storage time is 5 days; we personally never keep anything more than 2 days.
Our must-have varieties include the Queen Lime series (all of them! Red, orange, blotchy, and lime). (Especially ivory and salmon, love!) Oklahoma series Persian carpet and Aztec burgundy are the cutest small button filler flowers.
Harvest: Do the wiggle test and pick early in the morning if possible! Avoid using commercial flower food and choose CVBN tablets instead.