How To Make Tulip Roman Shades

The image in the link is what we refer to as a London shade, which is a hybrid of a roman blind and an Austrian blind. If you attempted to cut it short enough for a valance, I’m afraid the intended impact would be diminished. It has a minimum of two inverted pleats of 12 inches each, and the tulip pleats (I’m not sure how they obtain tulip) are at least 12 inches long to give the fold a 6 inch depth. I counted 6 pleats in the picture, so you need to measure the depth you like and add 12 inches for each pleat to create the desired appearance. You must also account for the hem allowance, the ungathered area, and the top hem allowance. The inside margins of the inverted pleats must be marked on the back of the lined fabric at least 18 inches in from the edge, followed by the centers of the inverted pleats at least 12 inches in from the edges. The center 12 inch lines of the inverted pleats are stitched with austrian blind tape. In order to create a pleat, fold the fabric so that the 6 inch and 18 inch lines meet. Pinch the lines together. On both pleats, repeat this. Iron the folds in place, stitch 4 inches from the top, then sew up 2 inches from the bottom, and securely tie off the stitches. The remaining pinned lines can be tacked, or you can iron the folds first to the left and then to the right. The inverted pleat must next be opened like a box pleat, making that the top and bottom stitches are directly above the pleat’s center. and pleat the two edges like a box-pleated skirt would. Sew the first cord-carrying ring on the back two inches from the bottom, followed by rings spaced 12 inches apart. If you’re using Velcro to secure them, sew it across the top. If you’re using hoop staples, sew tape for pin hooks. Start by tying your rope to the bottom rings, then pass it up through each ring. Do like you would with any Austrian or Roman blind at the top, then lead them to the side you want to knot them off on. Once you’ve achieved the desired effect, hang the pleats up.

This is a link to a great e-book that also includes some free instructions on how to make soft furnishings. It’s worth going there even though the London shade isn’t available for free because it’s part of the e-book that can be purchased.

How can you create simple, laid-back roman shades?

The center of a relaxed Roman shade can sag somewhat rather than being square and level, unlike a regular Roman shade. The center isn’t organized and supported by cords, thus that’s the “relaxed section.”

Many different hues are created with a more generous fullness and swoop or swag at the bottom. Examples include an Austrian shade that has fullness added to the length and is then gathered up vertically with shirring tapes, a balloon shade with collected or inverted pleats across the breadth of the shade, and a London shade with a pleat inset from each end.

There are more than three ways to create laid-back Roman shades, according to Susan, who listed her three favorites. You must be aware of the client’s preferences and the chosen material before selecting how to construct the shade.

1. How big are the windows, and are the blinds installed inside or outside?

2. Will the shades actually work?

3. How much swag or droop on the bottom is desired?

4. What linings and textiles are being utilized?

The simplest way to create a Relaxed shade is to construct it similarly to a flat Roman shade, with the exception that middle rings are not used. According to Susan, “that’s the technique I employ most frequently, stitching shade rings for the lift cables solely on the outer edges. This results in an understated form on the bottom. Instead of a Julia Roberts smile, I would describe this as a Mona Lisa smile.

Susan shows off a shade she recently placed that was built using this technique in the video down below. (Sources: lift system Pro Design LLC, fabric Cowtan & Tout, lining and interlinings Hanes Fabrics, interior design Kenny Ball Antiques & Design.)

The bottom three or four rings can be gently flared out while the remaining rings are stitched in a straight column. Because the cloth is pulled up more like a swag as a result of the cord, this makes people smile a little more. There is a very tiny variation, and sometimes it is challenging to determine whether the bottom rings were tilted out or not simply by looking at the shade.

The samples manufactured for demonstration purposes are shown in the photographs below in brown chintz so that the ring positioning is visible. The tiny variations are evident.

Susan enjoys hanging, elevating, steaming, and dressing the shades in the workshop so that they remain in that position. will even bundle them up for delivery while they are raised, she continues. Certain fabrics are more pliable than others. If the client is picky about perfection, it’s a good idea to let them know in advance that relaxed hues work better as a stationary shade. You can occasionally just get lucky and the cloth will cooperate! In the workspace, you can see unhurried Roman shades “in training.”

To retain the columns of rings at a constant width on all relaxed Roman shade designs, a weight bar is required. As a result, the shadow doesn’t draw in on the sides.

Consider creating a shade with a fishtail shape that is cut a little bit larger at the bottom if it is a practical shade that will be used daily for privacy. You simply need to give the width a total of two to three inches. Susan permits three fixed folds at the bottom, which will be the area with the flared edges (if ring spacing is 6 inches, the bottom 18″ will be cut in a flared shape).

Susan’s book Singer(R) Sewing Custom Curtains, Shades and Top Treatments includes a how-to for this technique. The directions in the book employ a pillow cased hem, which has no side hem and simply an edge seam. According to Susan, adding side hems is simple and may be accomplished by making a relief cut inside the doubled hem where the sides flare out.

When calculating the yardage, measuring, and board mounting, keep in mind that the folds at the bottom of the shade are secured in place.

You may compare the various shade-making techniques in the video below, which was taken from a Facebook live with Susan Woodcock that was broadcast on April 17, 2019, and find out more about how to create this sort of shade.

The fabric can also be wrapped around the board or added some fullness with pleats to give Roman shades their relaxed shape. It’s pretty minimal, similar to the flared bottom technique. You can create a little pleat on each side to give the fabric a swag form. For shades that are mounted outside, wrapping the fabric around the board provides you extra fullness for the bottom swag shape and conceals the ends of the board. Another option is to combine wrapping the cloth around the returns with making a tiny pleat at either end. You will have a more fuller and softer bottom on the shade as a result. The appearance will be messier, and the sides will resemble a balloon shade more.

You must know exactly what a consumer wants on the window when they request a relaxed Roman shade. There isn’t just one look. Susan stated, “I create mock-ups for this reason. It really does help. Even if you both agree on a style, you might still need to assist them in picturing how the shade will appear on windows of various sizes.

To avoid having the center become overly large and awkward-looking, you might want to plan on two or three “swoops” for wide windows. To prevent it from appearing stretched out, try adding a little pleat to each end or cutting it with a flare. Since dressing the broader windows would be more challenging, it’s an excellent option for a stationary shade.

Any system will work for a laid-back shade. The most typical would be a motorized device or a clutch track or tube. You can use a spring mechanism, but you’ll need to be a little more inventive by giving the weight bar a pull ring. Susan suggests watching The Workroom Channel’s “Method Share” video, which stars Elki Horn. Elki provides a tutorial for a laid-back Roman shade. The video is accessible below.

Susan remarked, “I believe relaxed shades are simple to manufacture and require the least amount of work compared to other shade designs, yet for some reason they tend to be a major difficulty for workrooms.” To not overthink it is her best piece of advise! If you find a nice approach that works for you, be sure to follow cord safety requirements just like you would with any other shade and have examples and images available to show clients.

A faux Roman shade should have how many folds?

Dear friends: I appreciate you stopping by to read my faux roman shade design advice. Before I begin, I should clarify that I do not sew and that I am approaching this from the perspective of a designer who has frequently had to provide all of the specifics of how I want my window coverings produced to the person or work space that will be constructing them for me. Sometimes we want things done around the house and believe the person we’re hiring can read our minds and will know exactly what to do, but this is frequently untrue! Of course, that person is skilled in the field and is able to develop or create what you are wanting to have done, but they will probably need information from you such as measurements and other crucial elements that you may not have yet considered. So that you will know what to tell your seamstress the next time (or the first time) you want to have bespoke treatments made for your home, I’m here today to share all of my design secrets for faux roman shades with you. I also have an article full of advice on creating custom curtains and how to decide which type of curtain to use in what situation. That is available HERE.

Window treatments, in my opinion, are the true jewelry of a room and may complete a space or home better than any other design feature (well, besides maybe fresh flowers of course:). Sincerely, I can’t even fathom any room in my house without them, but that’s just how I roll, and I completely understand if you feel differently. In my next home, I might even cut back a little, but I can’t get beyond how drastically they can change a space by elevating it to a whole new level. Even if it’s only a simple set of white panels or a white roman shade, window treatments can adorn the window and give a room a finished look unlike anything else.

In many cases, we don’t want long curtains or anything else fussy in the space, therefore a fake roman shade may be the perfect solution in these types of situations. An illustration of this is in my bathroom, where hanging full-length panels above the counter top is obviously not a good idea, but standard roman shades are also not required because the glass is hidden and the light is not needed to be blocked. Therefore, by using a faux roman shade (instead of a traditional functional roman shade), I was able to decorate my windows and subsequently the room for much less money (for a full tour of this room go HERE).

Here are a few instances where a faux roman shade would be more useful than curtains or a real roman shade:

• on top of a kitchen sink
• With covered glass above a tub and/or in a bathroom
• In addition to a functioning roman shade, which can be hung above the window to heighten the space and attract the eye upward

Other instances where it is unnecessary to limit light or sight include:

• in a windowed alcove
• a hallway or a narrow entryway
• in a child’s room
• high windows above a counter (like in my bathroom)
• In a small bathroom with a window, such as a powder room
• in a laundromat (yes, the laundry room deserves just as much attention and the rest of your home:)

Let’s move on to how to decide the specifications to employ while creating a roman shade. The following is a rather detailed list of the information you need provide your seamstress with in order for her to create the ideal fake roman shade for your project:

You must first ascertain the window’s dimensions and choose whether you want the faux roman shade to hang inside or outside the window. This is significant because it may have an impact on the kind and size of board that your seamstress will use to attach the cloth to. I prefer to hang mine above the window to draw attention upward and because I believe it gives the window a more finished appearance overall. Here’s a brief peek at the gorgeous faux roman shade from Drawn Company that can be seen in my kitchen (found HERE):

The next step is to ascertain the following details, which you should then provide to the individual who will be creating your shade:

• Width (how wide you want the finished shade to be) In general, you will need to add 2 to the entire window width to get the finished shade width because I always like to extend out from the window at least one on each side.
• Length (how long you want it to be from the very top to the bottom of the folds)
• This one is challenging because it is typically decided on a case-by-case basis. You might need a second hand for this one, but to assist me measure the height, I usually ask my husband to stand on a ladder and hold up a measuring tape (unfortunately, I don’t have a picture of this). The finished length should, however, generally be between 30 and 50 percent of the window height. Once more, how high you want to hang it and how much of the window’s top you want to cover will all depend on your preferences. If I have the room, I prefer to hang mine at least five times above the window, and I like it to sufficiently cover the top and sides of the window frame that the top of the window cannot be seen.
• Size of Board
• Your seamstress will be able to decide this detail depending on items 1 and 2, as well as whether you will be hanging it inside or outside the window jamb. This is the board the fabric will be connected to. Typically, depending on the use indicated above, a 1 x 2 or a 1 x 4 board is employed. A rod can also be used, but I don’t think it makes for the best-looking application.
• the sides
• This is necessary to prevent sight lines from the sides of the finished shade after it is hung, and it also adds a wonderful finishing touch. I usually have mine manufactured 3 to 3.5 long (see image below), with the width depending on the size of the board. These should be made from the same material as the shade fabric. If the tall windows in my home cause my shade to be unusually lengthy, I might add 1.
• Cloth Folds
• Folds are what they are—folds in the fabric at the base of your shade. By letting out or taking up the folds, this accessory can be utilized to prolong or shorten the shade so that the bottom doesn’t come to an abrupt, awkward stop (see image below). Additionally, the folds might disguise the fact that your shade is fake and instead is a true working shade. According on how long the shade is, I usually like to have 3 to 5 folds in the bottom. Obviously, a shorter shade would call for fewer folds, and a longer shade would call for more. This component will need to be calculated based on the length of your shade, or your seamstress should be able to assist you.
• Widened Rod
• It can help to give weight to the bottom of the fabric fold with a weighted pole so that your shade hangs neatly and straightly. Depending on the weight of your fabric—which, more than likely, can be estimated by your seamstress—this component may or may not be required.
• LiningUse a blackout liner if you’re hanging your faux roman shade over a window that receives a lot of light or direct sunlight to prevent your pattern from being obscured by the sunshine coming through the window. A blackout liner will help shield your fabric from fading and other harm. You should still line it if you are not at all concerned about the sun coming in, but if you like, you can use a standard liner.
• Adding cording is a lovely finishing touch that you may or may not choose to do. Some of my faux roman shades have it up top, while some do not (see image below).
• the width of your window (you may need to allow for moulding in some cases but the same rules with or without)

2. Establish your height

There is a listing for the shade seen HERE, but you might need to buy your own cloth separately. You will choose every aspect of your particular colour using the guidelines in the aforementioned link.

Last but not least, there are some fantastic over-the-counter solutions these days for working and faux roman shades if you don’t want to have one specially manufactured and prefer to explore for widely available options. A functional roman shade can be left in place and still serve the same purpose of dressing up the window (I have a similar situation in my guest room at home), but it has the added benefit of being operable should you ever require it. Here are a few lovely examples I was able to find online, some of which are custom, some of which are functional roman shades, and a few of which are faux (faux over the counter are hard to find so these are custom)

I sincerely hope that this post has been useful, but if you have anything to add to the discussion, kindly leave a comment below. Please post any more queries below!