How To Make A Tulip Sleeve

I made tulip sleeves in two different lengths using our Basics line’s Sheila Everyday Tee and Dress. I adore how it is straightforward while still adding an own personal touch to a plain t-shirt. This lovely accent can be added to your top in only a few extra minutes.

Pattern Prep

The short sleeve piece is the only pattern component you will need to change. Both the long version and the short version have nearly identical instructions. Along the way, I’ll demonstrate how to alter the pattern for each choice and offer images of both lengths.

Front half:

Cut your pattern piece in half after folding it in half vertically (the center is marked at the top of the shoulder).
Lay down the new pieces on the layout paper, leaving space for the rear to extend, then place the front half on the pattern.
Around the pattern piece, trace.
To make the tulip, decide how much the front and back should overlap at the shoulder. I chose to overlap mine by three for reference, but you can do more or less.
Measure the amount of overlap you determined at the top of the shoulder on the back portion of the pattern piece and mark it with a line.
Align the center of your back piece with the front piece’s trace.
From your overlap marking to the front piece, trace a line down the top of the rear sleeve piece.
Measure and mark the middle along the bottom of the front section (which is the sleeve opening).
Draw a swooping line that joins the inner shoulder edge and the sleeve opening’s midway.
Your pattern piece’s new front half should be cut out.

Back Half:

Trace all the way around the back half of the sleeve piece, leaving space for the front to extend.
Over the back sleeve that has been traced, place the new front piece facing down.
Match up the top of the shoulder, underarm, and sleeve opening on the front and back pieces.
Onto the back piece, trace the top of the shoulder and the bottom curve.
New back sleeve half should be cut out.

Front Half:

Measure 2 from the top down to the armscye’s straight edge. (Or however long you would like your sleeve to be.)
Follow the inner edge’s curve over to the new armscye length marking.
Remove the bottom part.
In order to align the top of the armscyes, place the reduced front piece face down on top of the back piece.
Onto the back piece, trace the new front curve.
Cut away the bottom part.

Cut out your Pieces

As per the tutorial’s instructions, cut out the front and rear bodice parts as well as the neckband.
Cut out two mirrored pairs for your new sleeve pieces.
It’s quite easy to mix up the front pieces with the rear ones, so mark both of them with a pin or clip. (Ask me how I am certain.)

Constructing the Sleeve

Whatever length sleeve you make, the processes are the same. Both lengths will be combined in the pictures.

Each piece’s inside edge should be hemmed up to two from the underarm seam. (You can go all the way to the end; this is simply how I like to hem.)
Place the paper pattern pieces on top of the fabric pieces and use a pin to mark the shoulder of each piece’s original centerline.
Both the front and back pieces should be marked.
The pins designating the original center should be lined up when the front and back pieces are laid side by side.
To ensure that the armscyes are identical to the original, place your original pattern piece on top and set it in place.
If necessary, modify the sleeves to conform to the original pattern.
Where the pieces overlap at the top of the sleeve, pin them together, and then sew them together with a long, narrow zigzag.
Right sides should be together as you fold each sleeve in half, matching the underarm seam.
Use a serger or a stretch stitch to sew.
Sew the unhemmed portion to complete the sleeve edge if the last two hem stitches were left unstitched earlier.
Follow the tutorial when sewing the bodice pieces together.
Pin the bodice and sleeves in quarters.
Turn the sleeve right side out and the bodice wrong side out before inserting the sleeve right sides together. Ensure that the front of the sleeves is aligned with the front of the bodice.
Sew with a stretch stitch or serger after pins are placed at quarter marks.
The hem and neckband help to complete your shirt.

How do tulip sleeves work?

Short one-seam sleeves are known as patel or tulip sleeves. The shape of this sleeve, which is suggestive of tulip petals, gave rise to its name. The pattern on the arm overlaps as the sleeve is sewed into the armhole.

Describe the butterfly sleeve.

flutter sleeve (plural butterfly sleeves) a certain style of sleeve that spreads along the forearm from the shoulder but does not extend to the wrist.

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What are sleeve balloons?

Sleeves come in a wide variety of lengths, shapes, and fabrics. They can be free-flowing and flowy, structured or puffy, long or short.

1. A built-in sleeve. A sleeve that is set in is one that is completely stitched to the armhole of the garment. If they are not made of the same fabric as the bodice, most sleeves are set-in sleeves.
Bell sleeves 2. This long sleeve, often known as peasant sleeves, fits snugly around the shoulder and upper arm before bellowing out to the wrist.
3. Sleeve caps. A cap sleeve is a very short sleeve that doesn’t go very far below the armpit and doesn’t extend very far from the shoulder. It can have a slack seam or one that is gathered and stretchy.
4. Sleeves in kimono. A kimono sleeve is one that is attached to the bodice of the garment as a single piece rather than separately. The sleeve is normally broad and has a constant circumference all the way around. Despite their name, these are typically utilized for Chinese-style robes rather than Japanese kimonos. The sleeves of a Japanese kimono are often made separately.
5. Sleeves in raglan. Better movement is made possible by raglan sleeves, which extend from the neckline of a garment rather than from the shoulder. T-shirts with this style of sleeve are made for baseball.
Bishop sleeves, no. 6. Bishop sleeves have a flared out shoulder that adds volume to the sleeve all the way to the tightly gathered cuff.
Sleeves with butterflies. A butterfly sleeve extends out from the shoulder like a bell sleeve, although it typically does not completely enclose the arm.
8. Wave your sleeves. A flutter sleeve is quite similar to a butterfly sleeve, although it typically falls lightly and is a little shorter and wider.
Dolman sleeves 9. This particular style of sleeve has a fairly large armhole and gets gradually smaller toward the wrist. Due to its resemblance to wings, this kind of sleeve is also known as a batwing sleeve.
10. Bulging sleeves. The shoulder and seam of a puffed sleeve are gathered, while the centre is full and puffy.
Capsule sleeves. Sleeves with a full, flowing appearance are called cape sleeves. At the shoulder, the cloth is gathered and stretches out like a cape.
12. Sleeves for lanterns. A long sleeve that collects about the wrist before ballooning out between the wrist and elbow is known as a lantern sleeve.
13. Sleeves that balloon. Long, puffy sleeves called balloon sleeves are gathered at the shoulder, puffed out, and then gathered again at the wrist. Even though the sleeve occasionally extends below the shoulder, it nevertheless has a full puff rather than a tapered flare.
14. Sleeve slits. A slit sleeve is one that has a slit running down the middle, typically exposing the arm. Another name for this sleeve is the “cold shoulder” sleeve.
15. Sleeves made of lamb. The shoulder and upper arm gather and inflate out this sleeve, which is subsequently attached to the forearm. The name of this sleeve design comes from how it mimics a sheep’s leg.
T-shirt sleeve, 16. The sleeve of a t-shirt is a short, set-in sleeve that extends from the shoulder to the middle of the upper arm.