These adorable miniature crocheted daffodils and foliage are made according to my own pattern. I used a 3.5mm hook and my meager supply of merino dk weight yarn (two hues of yellow, a lovely orange, and a spring green). They are roughly 7 cm wide.
An overview of the fundamental stitches is necessary before we start. I’m writing in crochet terminology from the UK:
Slip stitch (sl st): Insert hook, yarn over, draw loop back through stitch, and then pull loop through loop on hook.
Pull the yarn through all three loops on the hook after yarn-overing through the stitch (three loops on the hook) (note :: this is equivalent to the US hdc stitch)
through the stitch (three loops on the hook), yarn over, and draw through the remaining two loops on the hook (two loops remain) (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)
Make careful to leave a long tail end (about 20 cm) when you tie your first slip knot because you will need this length of yarn later.
To create a ring, chain 4, then join with a sl st. The first fight takes place outside of the ring.
:: Round 1 ::
Work 2 chains (which counts as 1 dc) and 11 dc into the ring. To finish the round, join with a sl st to the top of the first chain-2. In the following round, you will have twelve stitches to work with.
:: Round 2::
Chain 6 after slipping a stitch into the first stitch. Work one double crochet into the second chain from the hook (as above)
Work one double crochet into the second chain from the hook, followed by four more. Skip one stitch, then insert your needle into the following stitch (as above).
*Chain 6, then insert 1 double crochet into the 2nd chain from the hook. Skip the first stitch, then insert your needle into the following stitch.
Repeat between ** three more times to get a total of six petals (as above). AVOID FASTENING OFF.
:: Round 3::
The following step is to stitch dcs around each petal. You will be picking up the chain’s single loop as you progress along the right side of the petal (as above). Additionally, you will be sewing under both stitch loops as you progress down the left side of the petal.
Work one double crochet (dc) into each of the five loops extending up the right side of the first petal, starting at the base (as above)
You should be able to see a loop that isn’t quite a stitch at the very tip of your petal; in the image above, I’ve indicated it with my needle.
Now crochet one double crochet into each of the five stitches (5 total) along the left side of the petal.
the following petal’s base with a slip stitch (the same place you made the slip stitch in round 2).
Work your way around the petals as follows: 5 double crochets up the right side, 2 double crochets to make the tip, then 5 double crochets down the left side, with a slip stitch directly at the base.
:: Round 4 ::
The skipped stitches from round 2, which are located directly at the bottom center of each petal, will be used to work this round. As demonstrated above, place your hook beneath the first skipped stitch, and draw a loop of yarn in a new color through.
If you bend the petal all the way back as you work, you’ll find it easier to do these stitches.
Once you have 12 stitches total and are back at your starting point, work 2 double crochets into each skipped stitch around (picture above).
You will either need to use a stitch marker or count because the remaining stitches in this round are worked constantly in a spiral fashion. Make a double crochet (dc) in the first stitch right away, then continue making 1 dc in each stitch all the way around (12 in total)
Slip stitch, ch 1, slip stitch, into each of the 12 stitches all around.
Now, cut the cord and sew the trumpet ends (the orange ones). Time to create the tiny central stamens now.
Do you recall the lengthy tail ends you left? Both of them should be threaded onto a darning needle, which should then be pushed up through the daff’s center hole (from back to front) so that it emerges inside the trumpet.
Leave a loop as you lower the needle through the same hole a second time (this time from front to back).
Make a few stitches to secure the flower’s back (being sure to keep your loop; don’t pull too tightly), then darn the ends and trim them.
Your petals probably need a little TLC because they are twisted and crooked. What I’ve discovered to be the most effective is to fold a towel so that it is thick enough to be pierced by pins and pin out the petals (as above). After giving the flower a light mist of water, gently shape the petals with your fingertips. If you’re as impatient as I am, you’ll grab a hairdryer and blow hot air on it until it’s completely dry at that point. Turn it over and give the petals a quick steam push on the backside if it is still a little on the curly side. Organizes them well.
Chain 11 and insert your hook in the second chain from the end (10 stitches in total).
Darn in the tail ends by running them straight up the center of the leaf on the opposite side of the leaf (as shown above). By doing this, you fortify the leaf and aid in preventing it from becoming floppy.
Your leaf will likely be twisted and curly, just like the flower petals, so give the reverse side of it a light steam press with a cold iron.
Once you get the hang of them, these really are delightful to create and go together quickly. It could be a little challenging at first, but I hope you can get the hang of it.
Your hooky daffs can be used to add a touch of springtime cheer to your house or wardrobe. They would look great grouped together in a little circle, like I did with my Springtime Wreath, but I’ve been making mine to add to a large Easter wreath I’m building.