- ‘Walker’s Low’ plants are 30 inches tall and 36 inches wide, with lavender-blue flowers. As a side note, the name is not short because it derives from an Irish garden. It is actually almost as tall as the “Six Hills Giant.” Walker’s Low was chosen by the Perennial Plant Association as their Perennial of the Year for 2007.
Don’t restrict yourself to just these four options if you feel driven to hunt for catmint in your neighborhood garden centers. Numerous other top-notch cultivars are also readily available, including “Dropmore,” “Blue Wonder,” and “Junior Walker,” a scaled-down variety of “Walker’s Low” that stands 16 inches tall.
- Catmint tends to grow wider than tall, so give it lots of room.
- Even while catmint likes direct sunlight, it can also tolerate moderate afternoon shadow.
- Water new plants or transplants until they can survive on their own. Following that, established plants can withstand heat and drought.
- Never fertilize it again. Catmint prefers well-drained, somewhat fertile soil. In fact, a plant may flip over or split in half if the soil is excessively rich. In that case, trim the plant back to make it look neat. Compost added in the spring or fall will provide the plant the nutrients it needs to thrive.
- After the first blooming flush of the plants has finished, shear them back by a third or more. The plants will be more orderly, their size will be limited, and this will encourage a second rush of blossoms later in the summer. The plant will still bloom often and maintain its lovely appearance during the stifling summer months even without being sheared.
- Over the winter, keep any dead foliage in place to help protect the crown. Wait till the beginning of spring to trim it.
- Divide catmint every three to four years, preferably in the spring or early fall, to maintain it healthy. During the first growing season, until the plants take root, keep it well-watered.
- Catmint varieties can grow to be quite huge. Pinch the plant back in the spring after it has grown a few inches tall to encourage a bushier growth habit if you wish to limit the plant’s total size.
- Cut a vertical chunk off of an established clump of catmint in the spring to reproduce it. Make sure the division has a strong root system and a number of new shoots. Till the plant takes root, keep it well-watered.
- Cuttings can also be used to spread catmint. Before flower buds grow in the spring, clip healthy shoots at a length of three inches. The cuttings should be placed in a moist medium, such as sand or a peat-perlite mixture. Within two to three weeks, they should start to root.
- Catmint is typically unaffected by either pests or illnesses. The only issue that can occasionally arise is leaf spot. There is no consensus that the severity of this fungus illness justifies control measures.
- Experience has taught me that some cats are drawn to catmint. If you’re worried about this, cover newly planted or transplanted catmint with chicken wire to stop your cat from consuming it or rolling about in it.
- This plant attracts butterflies and bees like crazy. Additionally, hummingbirds adore it.
- You’ll adore this plant if your garden is plagued by four-legged animals other than cats. Deer, voles, and rabbits are deterred by the foliage’s minty aroma. THIS is a plant that pays for itself, at last!
Should catmint be trimmed back?
Once grown, catmint grows quickly and needs minimal maintenance. Although flowers are generated over a lengthy period of time, it’s a good idea to remove them after blooming to maintain the plant tidy and to promote the development of more. Before new growth arises in the spring, trim back the dead stems once the growth has died back in the late autumn. Delay pruning until early spring if at all feasible because dead leaves are ladybirds’ preferred site to hibernate. Every few years, catmint plants should be divided since huge, crowded clusters cause flowering to drop.
How to propagate catmint
After the plants have grown for a few years, catmint can be divided. The plant should be dug up in the fall or the first few weeks of spring. The clump should be divided into parts, each with a good number of roots and shoot buds, and then replanted in soil that has been improved with well-rotted compost or a soil conditioner. Water thoroughly to help the dirt surrounding the roots settle.
Growing catmint: problem solving
Given the proper growing circumstances, catmint is typically trouble-free, although plants rarely grow well in heavy, poorly drained soil or in shade. Powdery mildew can appear as a white coating on the leaves and stems during exceptionally dry summers. Cut off unhealthy shoots, collect, and discard impacted leaves.
How do you keep catmint tidy?
reducing summer catmint use Taller plants have a tendency to fall over and become untidy after the first bloom. Shearing your plant now will trigger a second flush of blossoms. Create a neat mound with a pair of sterilized pruning shears, cutting the plant’s height in half if necessary.
Are you a catmint deadheader?
Basic catmint maintenance is simple. Catmint plants need constant watering until they get established. Mulch will aid in moisture retention and control weed growth. Pinch back plants after they reach a height of a few inches (8 cm) to encourage bushier growth.
Throughout the summer and fall, catmint blooms. Deadheading faded blossoms encourages new blossoming. It may also assist in avoiding reseeding. However, Nepeta x faassenii, often known as Faassen’s catmint, does not require deadheading because it is sterile. In the fall or after harvest, shear the plants back to half their original size.
Should I clip back catmint after flowering?
I make an effort to visit the garden at least once per week to identify the upcoming task. I’m pruning, doing some light weeding, and keeping an eye out for new garden problems right now. On this day, February 8, 2020, I can see that the catmint needs a haircut. They’re wearing a grayish-brown coat from the autumn 2017 collection and they appear pretty winter-haggard.
One of my favorite groundcovers is Nepeta x faassenii, most commonly referred to as catmint. The list of stress-free and simple garden plants undoubtedly includes this sun-loving perennial, which blooms profusely in the summer, is an excellent pollinator plant, and is strong as nails. This cat can be cut back at any time of the year, as severely as you like, and as frequently as you choose.
If you’re preparing for the test, you should know that Nepeta x faassenii and its cultivars are sterile crossbreeds of Persian catmint, Nepeta racemosa, and lesser catmint, Nepeta nepetella. From mid-spring through the fall, masses of violet to dusky-sky blue flowers can be anticipated with very little irrigation. During the summer, if the plant begins to appear overly flowered or worn out, trim it to a height of 6 inches and wait a week.
The plant under consideration today is depicted above. Old, gray growth is visible and is pleading to be carried away and dumped on the enormous compost heap in the sky. A tiny bit of green may be seen peeking through, along with some much younger growth far below.
The plant would currently appear happier and there would be much less grey growth if I had clipped this back at least once throughout the summer.
The new growth is easily seen when you pull the plant to one side. I’ll go right to the good things by cutting everything else. Take note of how the green above and below the plant differs in hue. The yellow-green color (above) is peeling off, exposing the grey-green color (below).
It was far too simple. With my straight nose clippers, it required 12 cuts. With my felcos, I could have finished it in four. I cut the entire plant down to a height of about 2 inches.
I’m done now! Walk away if you feel comfortable with a few dead stalks sticking out. You’ve finished.
Let’s move a little closer if you’re still reading. If those stems are driving you crazy, either remove the entire stem or snip-prune each one back to just above something green.
Does catmint have a summer bloom?
This perennial flower that thrives in cool climates often features blue trumpet-shaped flower clusters and grey-green leaves with a distinctive mint scent. Even though it’s frequently called catnip, cats don’t find it to be as alluring as the real stuff. However, I’ve seen that if given the chance, our cat will indulge herself. Although the plant can reach a height of 3 feet, it frequently sprawls, creating a grey-green ground cover. In the late spring and early summer, it blooms profusely. In hot temperatures in the middle of the summer, it frequently temporarily stops flowering before starting up again in the early fall, especially if the plant is vigorously trimmed down. Catmint blooms are beloved by butterflies, hummingbirds, and other useful insects.
In our location, catmint is resilient, though certain types may require winter protection in colder climates. Despite the fact that it may be grown from seed, it is considerably simpler to buy plants from a nearby nursery or get divisions from a friend’s garden in the early spring when it first begins to grow. From early spring through early fall, sow. It is simple to divide catmint. Catmint should be planted in full or partial sun in humus-rich, compost-added soil that is well-drained. Plant where it will receive afternoon shade if you’re growing in one of our region’s warmer areas. In the garden, space plants 1 to 2 feet apart.
Water newly planted plants well. They may be resistant of drought once they have grown. To help keep weeds at bay and the soil continuously moist, mulch with bark and spread compost around the base of plants in the spring.
If you aggressively deadhead flowers and prune the plant back by two-thirds after each flush of blooms, you may keep catmint in practically constant bloom from late spring until fall. After a few years, springtime division of the plant will encourage renewed development and result in the production of more plants for friends and other plantings. Catmint doesn’t self-sow because it has few pests and sterile seeds.
The traditional cottage garden plant catmint frequently grows with peonies, roses, coreopsis, and delphiniums. It’s a fantastic filler plant to add color and green foliage between later blooming flowers because of its spreading tendency. It thrives when planted in rock gardens next to walls so that it can cascade over them. It can look a little rangy, so it’s not the best option for more formal settings.
With blue-violet flowers and a neater appearance than other types since it doesn’t spread as much, Walker’s Low is a more recent variation.
White Wonder and “Snowflake” are rare white blooming plants that only reach a height of one foot.
The enormous plant and bright blue flowers of Six Hills Giant are well recognized.
Dark blue flowers on 1 to 2 foot tall stems are produced by Blue Wonder.
Is cat mint a problem?
They believed it would entice cats to prey on rodents hiding about the farm or house. However, current research suggests that catmint may not just be discovered around the foundations of historic European homes and barns. According to a recent USDA study, termites are unlikely to dig tunnels through soil where catmint flourishes. Naturally, a moat made of this plant would prevent these pests from penetrating the wood of a hut or cottage.
Termites, mosquitoes, and cockroaches are all repelled by the same chemical that draws cats. Nepeta cataria, also referred to as common catnip, is a plant that contains it. Nepetalactone, a terpene found in these herbs, has been shown to be several times more effective at repelling insects than harmful DEET. To influence a cat, the plants release oils that must be breathed rather than consumed. This explains why cats are so prone to rolling around in catmint plants. More volatile oils are released from the leaves when it is bruised. Cats can detect airborne odors down to one part per billion.
Not all felines react the same way to these herbs. In fact, roughly 30% of household cats might not even respond to catmint. It’s a hereditary reaction that can vary in intensity from person to person and is inherited. Strangely, until they are at least 3 months old, extremely young kittens rarely react to nepetalactone.
There are a dizzying variety of plants in the genus Nepeta. The large invasive plant known as real catmint is described above. It grows to a height of three feet and bears few white blooms. It usually only appears in herb gardens and has very nothing to recommend it in terms of aesthetics. Due to its hardiness up to Zone 3, it is a fantastic choice for gardens in the north.
Through natural cross-pollination and human breeding, numerous species have been introduced into gardens over time and transformed into new varieties. The outcome is a wide variety of garden-worthy catmints that are much better prospects for your yard than the usual kind. Keep in mind that these immigrants won’t be as resistant to the cold as the species is. The majority, but not all, are sterile, preventing plants from spreading outward in the absence of viable seed. Simply deadhead the flowers after they are spent to stop seed formation in order to completely avoid self sowing.
The Six Hills Giant, which stands 3 feet tall, is the most impressive version. Late in the summer, foot-long spikes of dark violet blooms appear on lush, spherical plants. It is generally accessible and a superb option for novice growers.
Nepeta racemosa “Walker’s Low,” which has a shorter size, is an excellent edging plant. A gentle carpet of blue fills up the front of a border. It only grows to a height of 18 inches but produces dense clusters of vividly blue flower spikes. Walkers Low and Six Hills are resilient to Zone 5.
Catmints typically grow best in sandy, well-drained soils, although they will grow almost anywhere that isn’t moist. Late in the growing season, they can become rangy, and regular trimming is beneficial to prevent the taller forms from flopping in the rain.
Today, catmint merits another look as a natural pest deterrent for eco-friendly dwellings. wherever there is a chance of infestation, plant. Kittie won’t overdose, though, as cats all seem to have a sense of proportion.