Lilacs are a nostalgic flower for many individuals. On our property in Kansas, my mother planted a lot of lilac bushes. As I played, the aroma spread across the yard. In order for our children to share the same exquisite recollection of the aroma and flower, my husband and I made it a priority to plant a lilac in our garden when we first started our family.
I’ve tried, and have failed, through the years to bring this flower’s bounty into my house. Even though I had the flowers in a spotless vase filled with new water, they would begin to wilt an hour after I brought them inside. I have figured out how to make the blooms last as long as possible by trial and error:
As you trim blooms, have a pail half-full of fresh, chilled water nearby. Choose a chilly morning or evening to pick flowers. Lilacs bloom very sporadically after being harvested, so look for stems with at least 75 percent of their flowers open. Next, remove all of the leaves to prevent the plant from exerting extra energy to keep them moist. Put stems in the liquid. Allow the flowers to absorb water in the bucket for at least an hour by placing it in a cool, dark location.
Recut the stem ends next with powerful clippers, then make 1-2 inch vertical slices up the stem. Take hold of the sliced stem’s one side and twist it backward. Reintroduce the chopped stems to the water in the bucket right away. For an additional hour or two, let the stems soak up extra water in a cool, dark location. After that, the lilacs will survive three to four days and be ready for arranging.
Lilacs wilt so quickly; why is that?
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Here on the east coast, lilacs are all around us. The lilacs blossom profusely in the spring for around two weeks. I am drawn to them every year and want to bring them inside.
I’ve tried to cut lilacs for many years, but they always wilt the next day. Without really realizing there was a better way, it was just one of those things I came to accept about lilacs.
It is true that after being cut, lilacs tend to wilt in the vase. Lack of hydration of the blooms and leaves as a result of poor absorption of water and nutrients inside the stem is the primary cause of wilting.
Large lilac flowers require a lot of care to maintain them full and healthy, even for a short period of time in a vase.
However, I’ve since learned that there are a few methods you can employ to assist keep the flowers looking fresh for a lot longer. It changed everything when I figured out how to keep lilacs from wilting.
You Can Prevent Lilac Blooms From Wilting
Looking back, I can see that many of the things I did, starting with the first stage of harvest, led to this.
I occasionally cut the blossoms without thoroughly cleaning the buckets or containers I had on hand.
I used these methods to preserve my lilacs fresh this year, and I have to admit that I even shocked myself. They stayed fresh in the vase for approximately 5 days, and I was able to utilize them in a number of recipes and dry some of them for sachets.
How do you prevent cutting lilacs from wilting?
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Cut them in the morning or evening.
This enables them to contain the most water possible. They are far more likely to become dehydrated from the warm sun if you cut them at noon.
Cut them with sharp pruning shears.
Never try to cut them with a standard pair of scissors! To ensure a clean cut, use (or pick up) a pair of pruning shears.
To give the lilacs greater surface area to absorb water, cut them at a 45-degree angle.
When you go to cut the lilacs, bring a pail of chilly water with you into the garden. Put the stem in the water as soon as you cut it to prevent it from becoming dehydrated.
Remove excess leaves.
Removing excess leaves is beneficial for two reasons. Make sure to first remove any leaves from the vase you intend to use that would otherwise be submerged in the water. That will prevent your water from turning bad.
Second, some branches have a lot of extra leaves on them depending on the branch you cut. Just bear in mind that any leaves you keep will reduce the amount of water needed to keep your cut lilacs alive. I like to leave some leaves on for some extra green.
Get your vase ready!
Make sure your vase is tidy and big enough to hold your cut lilac flowers. Be careful since bases that are thin run the risk of falling over.
Fill it with flower food and warm water. Personally, I think it’s a great idea to get some flower food to keep on hand if you enjoy having fresh flowers in your home!
If you don’t have flower food, you can add a teaspoon of sugar, a teaspoon of white vinegar, or a teaspoon of bleach to the water along with a sugary citrus soft drink to help manage bacteria. Other professionals advise using crushed aspirin instead of flower food to keep the water clean.
To prevent them from drying out and wilting too rapidly, keep your lilacs away of direct sunshine.
Split the bottom of the stems.
Split the bottom of the stems of your lilacs before placing them in the vase that you’re using. To do this, you can either use a hammer on the bottom (I suggest doing this outside to avoid damaging your table!). or use your shears to cut an x at the bottom.
This will make it possible for the stems to absorb more water, preventing your lilacs from wilting too soon.
How is a lilac bush maintained in good health?
An old, overgrown lilac was one of the few plants that endured my garden restoration. The fact that it obscured my neighbor’s garage and, more importantly, sported steel-blue double flowers, led me to rescue it. Although the blossoms on this shrub were both lovely and fragrant, it was difficult to appreciate them because there were so few of them. I decided to go with a rejuvenation pruning because I knew there was no reason to give up on this long-neglected plant because lilacs can handle severe pruning.
On stems that are no older than five or six years, the common French lilacs (Syringa vulgaris cvs.) yield the most and the largest flowers. The flowers get fewer, smaller, and farther away as the stems get older. A lilac, however, may reliably produce blossoms for decades with the right trimming. The method you choose will depend on how old your shrub is. Plants are maintained annually to keep them healthy. A more drastic trimming may be necessary for lilacs like mine that have seen better days.
Lilacs should be clipped annually to encourage healthy stem development and strong growth that improves flowering. Cutting sick, deformed, and unproductive stems to the ground constitutes annual pruning. I thin and cut back some stems as well to promote healthy, evenly spaced growth. To prevent them from growing too far away from the center of the plant, I also pruned a few of the new shoots that emerged from the roots. I left a few inches between each stem to prevent crowding. Since they produce the most, I maintain the pencil-thick shoots that extend all the way to the ends of the branches. Small, twitchy growth is unproductive and won’t blossom. This growth can indicate an excess of aged, unproductive stems or too much shadow. Remove stems as soon as possible after blossoming, or in late winter if you don’t mind losing a few blooms. Cut off stems and shoots at or just below the soil line.
Dwarf lilacs rarely need pruning
Both the “Palibin” Meyer lilac (Syringa meyeri “Palibin”) and the “Miss Kim” Manchurian lilac (Syringa pubescens ssp. patula “Miss Kim”) are twiggy-habiting, somewhat small lilacs. On these types, just deadheading is needed in terms of pruning. You can prune some of the older stems as the plants get older to make place for younger, more robust stems. In contrast to regular lilacs, these plants hardly ever spread out of control. They might never need to be entirely regenerated if you only undertake a tiny amount of trimming every few years.
After the blooms have faded, deadheading, another aspect of annual maintenance, should be carried out as soon as feasible. Just above the two new shoots that slant out from the stem that stopped with the old bloom, the base of the old flower cluster should be cut off. The new shoots will develop throughout the course of the summer, produce flower buds, and culminate in a cluster of flowers the following spring. While not as crucial as the annual thinning, eliminating the old blossoms enables the plant to focus more of its energy on developing robust branches and flower buds. In June, I deadhead and thin my plants as needed.
While performing this yearly maintenance, I occasionally come upon a young, robust shoot that may be getting too tall but is still a good, productive stem and is a candidate for tipping off. I cut the wasted flower’s entire top stem back to one or two side shoots at the desired height rather of just cutting it off at the base. The side shoots that are now near the top of the bush are encouraged to grow vigorously and develop flower buds for the following year by this cut, which also aids in shrinking the shrub.
My own old, overgrown lilacs need more severe pruning. I went outside in the early spring before growth got going to get a good look at the bush. I looked to see if the plant had been grafted before I began chopping. I immediately cut it down to the ground as it hadn’t (for a grafted plant, see the panel below). I recognized that this drastic trimming would result in the plant losing part of its aesthetic appeal for a few years because lilacs bloom on the growth from the previous season. However, I was also aware that the reward—more blossoms and a stronger plant—would be worthwhile.
It’s crucial to nourish the plant after rejuvenation pruning with compost, composted manure, or a balanced chemical fertilizer and to make sure the soil pH is close to neutral, which lilacs appreciate. In the upcoming years, these supplements and some high-quality mulch will help to encourage vigorous new growth and enhanced flowering.
Has your lilac been grafted?
If your lilac has been grafted, check it out before you start making cuts to the stems. Grafting is a method of plant multiplication in which the scion, or branch, of one species is joined to the rootstock, or stem, of another species. This is typically done to enhance a plant’s look or traits. A graft union, where the cultivar’s scion wood joins the rootstock several inches above ground level, should be obvious. An apparent change in the bark from the rootstock to the scion’s bark, as well as a little swelling at the graft union, are things to watch for. If your plant has been grafted, all of your cuttings must be made above the graft union, and you must prevent shoots from the rootstock from developing into new flowering stems. Flowers of the desired shape or color will not be produced by shoots that emerge from the rootstock.
How do lilacs that have been overwatered look?
Overwatering your lilacs is one of the worst things you can do. If the soil around a particular lilac variety is always wet, then all lilac kinds are susceptible to fungal diseases including mildew, mold, and other sorts of fungi.
Lilacs that receive excessive water risk developing root rot. A lot of the time, wilted, pale, or yellow leaves indicate an excess of water. Reduce watering to once every 14 days until these symptoms go away if any of these things happen or if the ground appears to be persistently damp. Remember that you might not need to water your lilacs at all if you are experiencing regular rains.
How can you tell if a lilac has received too much water?
A traditional flower garden, outdoor space, or decorative pot should all contain lilac plants as they are a staple flowering shrub. Zones 3 through 8 are suitable for growing these fragrant shrubs, and they require very little maintenance. Lilacs need at least 6 hours per day of direct sunlight to produce their best flowers. Lilacs benefit from regular watering after initial planting, throughout active growth seasons (spring), and during prolonged dry spells. Lilacs are fairly drought tolerant once they are established.
It is advised to water your lilac plant once every 10 to 14 days from spring till blooming is finished. The ideal irrigation for lilacs is deep, infrequent watering. Make sure the planting space or container has good drainage. These plants don’t appreciate having their feet wet and won’t bloom if they are overwatered. By saturating air pockets with water and reducing soil oxygen levels, excessive water can strangle the lilac tree’s roots. The first indication that the lilac is overwatered is the plant wiggling.
Lilacs can be grown inside.
It’s crucial to take good care of lilac plants in pots. Put it somewhere that gets at least six hours of direct sunlight each day. Maintain a moderate level of moisture by watering whenever the soil dries to an inch below the surface. The plants won’t blossom or grow properly if the roots are constricted. When the roots outgrow the container, it is crucial to trim them back.
Watering Lilacs in Pots
Water your lilac after you’ve potted it, and keep it moist. Every time the soil dries to an inch below the surface, water your lilac plant. once or twice a week, on average If the plant becomes too dry, the leaves will start to droop or fold. Overwatering lilacs can drown the plant or lead to root rot, thus it should be avoided.
Fertilizing Lilacs in Pots
During the first few days of spring each year, fertilize your lilac plant. Implement a 10-10-10 fertilizer. You can also fertilize your plant using bone meal. It is a simple food source for plants that the lilac can easily consume. Bone meal raises the alkalinity of the soil. Lilacs do best in soil that is fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, and neutral to alkaline (at a pH near 7.0).
Winter Care For Lilacs in Pots
During the winter, a lilac plant in a pot will require protection. Never bring your lilacs indoors during this season. The maturation of the blossoming buds requires cold temperatures. The roots of lilacs may suffer if the winters are hard in your area. To insulate it, you should remove your plant out of its container and bury it in the earth. Another choice is to bury the plant and container together in dirt, straw, or leaves. If you choose to do this, be sure your container has the durability to withstand the winter. Avoid using natural materials for pots, such as untreated terra cotta. The substance collects water, which when frozen expands and causes the pot to fracture. Our resin plastic containers are suggested. They are resistant to the frigid conditions. Finally, after the first severe frost, you can store your lilac pot for the winter in a cold frame or an unheated garage.