The zinnia kinds you choose truly depend on your particular preferences. You might not know which zinnias to start with because there are so many colors and varieties to pick from.
Pick the ones you believe you will like first, and then move on. Choose the hues and shapes that appeal to you.
Some had interesting packaging when they were seeds, but when they bloomed fully, they lacked appeal. Zinnia Seora is one instance of this.
ZINNIA “SEORA
The petals on Zinnia Seora were a little bit torn, curled, tattered, and shaggy. There was not a single blossom in the bouquets.
Since then, I’ve seen images of this flower with stunning full bouquets—all belonging to Seora!
This is how this particular blossom looks. ragged and twisted shabby and ragged.
Then there were additional zinnias, and they were even more stunning than I had anticipated. These zinnias, in my opinion, will always be present in our garden.
The Queen Lime Series, the Oklahoma Series, and the Benary’s Giants are currently our three favorite varieties.
When is the best time to plant zinnias?
Depending on how you plant, this could happen:
Once the soil has warmed and there is no longer any threat of frost, zinnias can be planted directly in the garden.
Before the last frost, zinnias can also be started indoors in trays under grow lights for 4-6 weeks. Once the threat of all frost has passed, they can then be transferred outside into the garden.
Due of the weed pressure and delayed last frost dates in zone 5b, we have opted to transfer seedlings rather than directly sow.
We decided to start indoors with lights as we are in zone 5b and our spring is sometimes hampered by late frosts.
How To Germinate Zinnia Seeds
It is quite simple to germinate and grow zinnia seeds. They are beneficial for both experienced and beginning gardeners.
Our zinnia seeds are sown in plastic trays with a soilless mixture. They are buried about a quarter deep. Then we put a thin coating of vermiculite over them.
They are placed on heat mats after planting and left there until they germinate, which takes 5 to 24 days.
Don’t plant too early
I’ve discovered that because zinnias thrive indoors under lights, they occasionally become a little lanky before being planted outside.
So I try to avoid planting too early. We start our seeds around the end of March in order to have them ready for planting by the end of May in our zone.
How To Care For Zinnias
Since they are a warm-season flower, they want warm soil that is somewhat moist and fertilized.
Our zinnias are spaced nine spaces apart in landscape fabric. The cloth helps to warm the soil for these heat-loving plants and lessens the pressure of weeds surrounding the plants.
Zinnias cannot take frost, and even a slight chill will cause their flowers to blemish very rapidly.
When zinnias are between 8 and 12 inches tall, pinching is beneficial. Cut off the top 3–4 inches, all the way to a group of leaves. More flowers will grow and side branches will be encouraged.
The term “cut-and-come-again type of flowering plant” refers to zinnias. This implies that you can keep cutting them as they continue to grow new branches and flowers throughout the entire season!
For the longest-lasting blossoms, clean the water in the vase every day because zinnias can turn it murky.
If you decide to grow zinnias, you can’t go wrong. They are incredible plants that are also quite jovial and colorful.
How To Cut Zinnias
When you first start learning how to trim your zinnia flowers, it can be a little perplexing.
Future blooms have long, robust stems thanks to deep plant cuts. Follow a single flower along the stem until you reach the plant’s root.
Slice through a group of leaves. Remove any side branches from your zinnia stem so that it is only left with the flower and a few leaves at the top.
Zinnias are “cut and come again,” allowing you to keep harvesting blooms from each plant all season long.
Do the wiggle test to weed out immature blooms
Immature blooms frequently have brittle necks that can shatter, bend, or snap off.
Sometimes it’s challenging to determine whether the flowers are mature simply by looking. The Benary’s Giants may be large and appear to be ready for harvest, but they may not yet be fully developed.
The bloom and stem are juvenile and are at risk of bending and breaking if cut at this time if the bloom wiggles back and forth.
It’s time to clip the bloom if it does not wriggle but rather remains straight and rigid between your fingertips.
Save Seed For The Next Season
Since zinnias are an annual flower, they do not grow every year unless they are started from seed.
Allow the wasted bloom to grow and dry on the plant in order to save ripe seed. We remove the flowers towards the end of the season and place them in trays lined with kraft paper so they can continue to dry out.
On the flower head, the seeds are simple to locate. They have the appearance of tiny arrowheads. At the base of the dried petals, some are visible. Holding them upside down causes others to simply drop out of the desiccated centers.
If as all possible, keep your stored seed in a labeled packet in a cool location. Zinnia seed does not require stratification or cold storage to germinate.
Consider Drying Zinnias For Dried Flower Projects
Many of the flowers we grow on our farm can be preserved and used to make beautiful, long-lasting items like dried flower arrangements, wreaths, shadow boxes, and potpourri.
We’ll be experimenting with different methods to dry our flowers and updating you as we go!
If you have ever used dried zinnias, please share your thoughts with me! You are welcome to remark below!
What advice do you have for raising excellent zinnias for cut flowers? Make sure to comment below with your story if you have any.
Can zinnias be used as cut flowers?
Consider zinnias when you need consistent, low-maintenance cut flowers. They only need full sun and healthy soil; they don’t need any additional care or conditions. Even better, zinnias are available in almost all colors (except blue). There is a zinnia for almost every event, which makes them a suitable cut for arrangements ranging from traditional to traditional-style.
Color. From the vivid, high-chroma Benary’s Giant Series to the delicate, mellow tones of “Creamy Yellow,” “Oklahoma Salmon,” and “Queen Red Lime,” the color spectrum of zinnia blossoms is quite astounding. Whether you are interested in floriculture for business or pleasure, our experiments have produced a wide range of high-performing options that will work well for you.
What zinnia varieties make the nicest cut flowers?
The dahlia-flowered zinnia category includes many of the greatest zinnias for cut flowers. For cutting or usage in the summer garden flower border, these tall plants produce long, robust stems with some of the largest flowers. Here are the top selections.
Benary’s Giants
Both amateur gardeners and commercial flower growers use this well-known and commonly produced zinnia species to create armfuls of enormous, completely double zinnia flowers. Both the combination and the individual colors are available for purchase. Plants can reach a height of 40 inches and a width of 12 to 16 inches. Flowers that are 3 to 4 inches broad look beautiful in bouquets and vases. Benary’s Giant zinnias are not only robust and floriferous, but they also have good disease resistance. Here are some of the best Benary’s Giants single-color zinnia variants.
Giant Bright Pink Zinnia from Benary
Strong stems bear bright shell-pink flowers; excellent for the cutting garden.
Giant Carmine Rose Zinnia from Benary
Long-lasting medium rose-pink flowers are supported by sturdy stalks.
How are zinnias grown and cut?
The extreme heat and dry conditions have forced many growers to scramble to tend to and harvest their stressed fields and gardens, including here on our farm in the Skagit Valley and throughout much of the Western United States. While many flowers bloom profusely in this kind of weather, it is crucial to know the optimum times to harvest and ways to care for your fresh cut blooms immediately after they are cut if you want your flowers to last as long as possible—especially with the added stress of high temperatures. (This is referred to as “stage of harvest” and “post-harvest handling” in the language of flower farmers.)
Here are some of my favorite hints for avoiding heat waves and getting the longest vase life possible from 10 high summer flower varietals.
Zinnias: To ensure a long vase life, zinnias must be harvested at the proper time. Wait too long, and the blossoms will swiftly fade; harvest too soon, and the stalks will sag and droop. The “wiggle test” is a pretty easy way to determine whether your zinnias are ready for harvest. Simply take hold of the stalk a few inches below the flower and gently shake it. The stem will be delicate and flexible if it is young. When you wriggle the stem, it should stay rigid and straight if the plant is ready to be harvested. Cut time has come! To create a long, sturdy stem, deeply cut the plant. Don’t be hesitant to clip off lateral sprouts on the main stem you just plucked; remove the foliage as well. Because zinnias are “cut and come again” flowers, they will continue to grow all season long even after being severely pruned.
We cut zinnias and place them directly into clean, fresh water that has either been supplemented with a drop of chlorine or a CVBn pill. The little conditioning pills, which are frequently marketed for gerber daisies, are actually ideal for all of the “dirty flowers with hairy stems that easily gather dirt and bacteria that can muddy up the water.” The hottest time of the year is when zinnias blossom continuously, and they also enjoy heat throughout the post-harvest period. One of the few flowers we don’t treat in the cooler before delivery or design work is this one. Simply said, we keep them out of direct sunlight in a dark, shaded area of our studio. These few easy steps will give you gorgeous, long-lasting blossoms that last 7–10 days in a vase.
Note: In general, certified organic agriculture does not permit the use of commercial flower food. Using bleach or hot water and harvesting at the right stage are crucial if you have certification. To give your flowers the longest possible vase life even if you are not certified organic, CVBn tablets and other hydration and conditioning options are worth the extra money.
Basil: During the height of the summer, we nearly always add at least one or two stems of Cardinal, Oriental Breeze, Lemon, or Cinnamon basil in our mixed bouquets of flowers for grocery store clients. When the flower heads start to appear and the stems start to harden, I pick the basil. To keep them from wilting, I treat them with Quick Dip (a non-organic alternative) or boiling water (an organic alternative). As these plants wilt quickly, be cautious to harvest them in the cool of the morning or evening. Basil doesn’t like the cold, just like zinnias, so keep them out of the refrigerator to finish their conditioning. The vase is frequently where stems root, and they should last 7 to 10 days.
The fuzzy, aromatic leaves of scented geraniums are a must-have for bouquets, but if you don’t take a few simple precautions, they could wilt easily. In order to avoid the heat of the day, I always attempt to trim the scented geraniums first thing in the morning. I sliced them, placed them in cool water, and gave them 3–4 hours to rest and condition before arranging them. Dip the bottom 2-3 in boiling water for 5-7 seconds or dip the stems in Quick Dip if they are still wilting.
Another flower that is prone to wilting is the hydrangea. Perhaps more significant than the harvesting stage is how you hydrate the produce after it has been sliced. My secret is to cut them when they are still chilly, use Quick Dip quick hydration solution, or cut them into hot water for organic production. I am familiar with some flower growers who swear by dipping the just-cut stems in alum powder (found in the grocery store’s spice aisle), while others would soak the entire bloom in water before use to prevent wilting.
Cosmos: Cosmos generally don’t have a very long vase life, but if you cut them at the proper point, you can extend their beauty. Cosmos should be cut when just one petal is beginning to unfold, and once that happens, let the vase’s other buds and blossoms bloom.
Sunflowers: Harvesting the blooms just as the first few petals begin to lift off of the central disk and removing all but the top few leaves will give your sunflowers the longest vase life possible. This can be challenging for beginners since it still appears to be “closed” and not ready to pick, but if you cut them early, you can prevent bug damage and enjoy longer vase life. These people, who are referred to as “dirty flowers,” may benefit from some bleach in the water or from being cut into a pail of water that has been CVBn-treated.
Celosia: When harvesting crested celosias, also known as “cock’s comb,” wait until the crests are fully grown (or a bit sooner is good too), but before the plant begins to produce seeds. Before plucking celosias with feathers, let them stretch and become feathery. Make sure to remove around 3/4 of the leaves after cutting and submerge them in cool water.
Cerinthe: Harvest during the coldest part of the day, then immediately treat stems by putting the bottom 2-3 inches in boiling water for 7–10 seconds, followed by a cool water bath. After harvest, stems become extremely floppy, but once hydrated, Cerinthe can last up to a week in a vase.
Harvest rudbeckia when the flowers start to unfold. Black Eyed Susans are infamous for fast turning their water murky. By reducing this and extending their vase life, you can expect a vase life of 7 to 10 days by adding a few drops of bleach to the water.
If you have any more advice or methods for gathering high summer blossoms and extending their vase life, please let me know. Please share any more advice in the section below.