Echinacea, sometimes known as coneflowers, is a hardy perennial in the daisy family (Asteraceae). They are indigenous to the eastern and central United States, from Colorado to Texas in the south and the Great Lakes in the north. Here is how to cultivate this native American plant in your garden.
About Coneflowers
These quick-growing plants have a height range of 2 to 4 feet, blossom from midsummer till the first fall frost, and self-sow profusely. Coneflowers are named for their elevated, conical centers that draw bees and butterflies. The seed heads draw songbirds like goldfinches once they blossom. Once they are established in a conventional garden or a meadow of wildflowers, coneflowers enjoy the heat and are trouble-free.
The majority of echinacea species are purple (E. purpurea), but there are up to nine naturally occurring varieties that are yellow or purple (E. paradox). More sizes and colors are available with hybrids, but there are drawbacks as well: many of them lack genetic diversity and are sterile, which means they cannot produce viable seed.
The lower stem of the plant, which is frequently prickly, is referred to by its genus name Echinacea, which is derived from the Latin word for hedgehog, echinus. Coneflowers are so named because their elevated, cone-shaped centers are filled with seeds that draw butterflies. After bloom, leave the seed heads on the plant to draw in songbirds like goldfinches! They are less susceptible to deer than other floral plants since they are native plants with thorny stems.
When grown in large groups, coneflowers are spectacular, especially when they are a combination of different colors.
Coneflowers prefer soil that drains well and direct sunlight. Although coneflowers can thrive in a variety of soil types, nutrient-rich soil is where they bloom at their finest. 12 to 15 inches of loose soil should be added, along with a 2 to 4 inch layer of compost or aged manure. Pick a spot where the coneflowers won’t be shaded out or languish in soggy ground. If the correct circumstances exist, they will spread quickly. (Read up on how to get soil ready for planting.)
When to Plant Coneflowers
Coneflowers are typically purchased as little plants that will soon bloom. Planting time for these should be in the spring, early summer, or fall.
- Coneflowers should be planted while they are young and will bloom in the spring or early summer.
- Eight to ten weeks prior to the last spring frost date, seeds can be started inside. Alternately, plant them outside after the soil has warmed to at least 65°F (18°C). Plants grown from seeds are unlikely to blossom for two to three years.
- Note: Coneflower plants will rapidly self-seed if you don’t clip them back.
- Coneflowers should only be divided or moved in the spring or fall.
How to Plant Coneflowers
- Coneflowers should be spaced 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the variety’s mature size.
- Dig a hole that is almost twice as wide as the pot if you are planting from one. The root ball of the plant should be level with the soil surface when it is placed. To the top of the root ball, fill in.
- At planting, give it plenty of water.
- To help keep plants wet and discourage weeds, cover the soil top with thin layers of compost, followed by mulch.
Learn more about the advantages of planting coneflowers by watching our video:
Coneflowers can withstand drought, although young plants require water from time to time, and more frequently if the spring is particularly dry.
- To help keep the plants wet and discourage weeds, mulch and compost in thin layers should be placed around them.
- Fertilizer is rarely needed in native soil. When you plant, make sure your soil has a lot of organic matter.
- If the spring is particularly dry or your coneflowers are recently planted, just add extra water in the late spring.
- When flowers start to fade, deadhead to extend the bloom duration. Trim stems to a leaf close to a bud. Late-season deadheading stops self-seeding and bird feeding.
- Optional: When coneflower plants bloom, prune them back by a foot to promote delayed blooming for fall enjoyment. Because coneflowers have a tendency to become lanky, this will result in later blossoming and more compact growth. For more evenly spaced bloom heights and periods, cut certain flowers but not others.
- August could bring on beneficial army beetles that resemble wasps. They pollinate plants and eat bug eggs and larvae. Avoid hurting them.
- In cooler areas, scatter mulch around plants in the late fall.
- When stems wilt or after a hard cold, trim them back to the soil line. Cut back in the late winter to encourage self-seeding. When cleaning up the garden in the late winter or early spring, prune back the plants.
- Optional: Think about allowing late-season flowers to develop on the plants. Birds will be drawn to the seed heads, which will encourage self-seeding. If you prefer not to have self-seeding, deadheading will stop it. Cut the dead flower back to a leaf where you can see a bud that is about to swell in order to deadhead.
- Coneflowers can be divided or moved in the spring or fall.
Growing Coneflowers in Pots
Coneflowers are often grown in the ground as perennial plants, but you can grow them in pots if the pots are deep enough to accommodate the plant’s taproot. Use containers with drainage holes that are at least 2 or 3 gallons in size. For drainage, spread crushed gravel in the pots’ bottoms. With potting mix, halfway fill the pot. Slow down. Spread the roots out and plant the root ball an inch below the container’s rim. Gently press down the soil after adding it gradually until it is level with the top of the root ball. Deep breathing.
- Place pots in full morning sun and half afternoon shade after keeping them in partial shade for two to three days.
- Always deeply water the soil when it feels dry to the touch. There is a risk of fungus from water on leaves.
- Every few weeks, fertilize the soil with a water-soluble 10-10-10 product.
- For sustained flowering, remove the dead flowerheads slightly below the flower’s base.
- When plant development slows in the fall, trim plants to the soil level to overwinter them.
- Move to a spot with low to moderate indirect light and a cool (40 to 50 °F) temperature.
- Every few weeks, check the soil and water it lightly if the top 3 inches are dry.
- If new growth starts to sprout in the spring, relocate to a warmer (60 to 70 °F) and more sunny spot. Moving the plant aids in preparing it for life in the spring and summer outdoors.
- Avoid watering leaves from above since this can promote fungus on the leaves. Instead, hydrate the soil. If you notice any bugs or aphids, use a neem oil solution spray or an insecticidal soap.
- Dividing and repotting echinacea plants every three to four years following the start of new growth is recommended.
- Echinacea purpurea cultivar “Robert Bloom” features pronounced, dark orange centers and vivid scarlet flower petals.
- The dark mauve flower petals of Tennessee coneflower (Echinacea tennesseensis) have greenish-pink cores.
- Echinacea purpurea’s “Finale White” variety includes flower heads that are creamy white with greenish-brown cores.
- The soft-yellow petals of the hybrid echinacea “Cleopatra” have golden-green cores.
Echinacea grows great in pots, right?
As long as they have enough space to grow, lovely echinacea flourish in both garden borders and pots. They should be planted in a deep container that is placed in an area with lots of sunlight.
Growing echinacea in containers is definitely a better option if your soil is thick clay and susceptible to becoming soggy. Use a multipurpose potting compost with lots of horticultural grit for free draining, like John Innes No 3.
Since containers tend to dry out much more quickly than garden beds, it’s good news that echinacea are naturally drought tolerant plants. However, you don’t want them to dry out too much. When the soil’s surface starts to dry out, water them.
Choose the largest container you can to reduce the amount of watering required and to give the plant plenty of area to grow.
Coneflowers thrive in containers, but do they?
Deep roots are a characteristic of these plants, especially the less-cultivated species. For a three-foot-tall plant, that’s over six feet deep! You can’t expect this plant to thrive if you place it in a small pot.
Either a fibrous root system or a long, delicate taproot with lateral roots and root hairs makes up the root structure. The most prevalent species, E. purpurea, has a fibrous root structure that extends far shallower than those with taproots.
Make careful to choose a deep container to retain that lengthy taproot if you choose one of the other species (such as E. pallida, E. angustifolia, or E. tennesseensis).
Although a pot that is about 24 inches deep and a foot broad will do, a pot that is six feet deep is not necessary.
It is possible to grow E. purpurea in a shallower container. Start with something that is 12 inches deep and wide.
Make careful to pick something larger if necessary if you intend to build a mixed-plant pot. Coneflowers thrive in communities with species of salvia, bee balm, phlox, and anise hyssop.
The size of the container is more crucial than its material. Black or metal pots are OK because echinacea can withstand heat, but they must be sturdy enough to remain upright once the coneflower has reached maturity.
When the dirt has dried a little, a thin metal container can become remarkably light. You have the ideal circumstances for your pot to fall over immediately if you add that to a tall echinacea plant that is in full bloom.
Terra cotta also works, but keep in mind that, especially in the winter, these can fracture or come apart.
Pots made of concrete or stone are more durable and less likely to overheat, but they can be heavy and difficult to transport.
A better substitute would be fiberglass or wood because they are lighter and less prone to cracking. However, wood may rot, necessitating upkeep to keep containers in good condition.
Make sure it has at least one sizable drainage hole, whichever option you choose. For the aforementioned container sizes, an inch-wide hole or several quarter-inch holes are ideal.
Before planting, cover the hole or holes with netting or newspaper if you are concerned that dirt will leak out.
How is Echinacea cared for in pots?
Put the pot in a location with at least 2-4 hours of daily sunlight. However, because echinacea is a prairie plant, 6–12 hours of sun per day is sufficient for developing coneflowers.
Don’t let it dry out
Even though Echinacea may withstand drought, any plant in a container dries up more quickly than one that is rooted in the ground. So, whether it’s hot or sunny, prepare to water the Echinacea every day.
If you’re unsure, you can test the moisture level of the potting soil by sticking your finger into it. If the plant feels dry, water it. Pick up the pot as well; if it feels light, water is probably needed.
Want to know more about Purple Coneflower? See our Echinacea Purpurea Complete Guide!
Types of Coneflowers
Native to North America, echinacea comes in a variety of varieties. There are a lot more cultivars and hybrids available in addition to those. Echinacea (coneflower) species may all be grown from seeds with ease. The majority of Echinacea species do, however, have taproots.
The good news is that Echinacea Purpurea, which has a fibrous root system, is the most prevalent species of echinacea and is the basis for most cultivars [1]. This gives us greater freedom when it comes to choosing the pot size for growing Echinacea in a container.
Choose the common Purple Coneflower or one of its varieties if you want to grow a coneflower in a pot. If you’re buying a hybrid or unique color coneflower, pay attention to the scientific name on the packet. if the label reads “Echinacea Purpurea.” If so, its root system is most likely fibrous.
Coneflowers in containers during Winter
Despite being hardy to zone 4, echinacea may not be able to withstand excessive cold in a container. You can keep your echinacea on walls with a southern exposure if your winters are milder. To help preserve the plants, think about placing leaves or even blankets around the containers.
It is OK to give a plant little to no water when it is dormant, or not actively developing. The root stock could rot and kill the plant if the soil is kept damp. I simply let nature decide when to water the pot and let the plant outside in the weather.
Do Coneflowers need to be fertilized?
Coneflowers typically don’t require fertilizer. The plant can seem fuller and healthier by having a layer of compost added to it in the spring.
What is the ideal location to grow echinacea?
Echinacea needs full to partial sun to grow well. At least four hours of sunlight every day are required for plants. Since the plants are native to woodland borders, they will flourish in locations with morning shade and afternoon light, or the opposite.
Echinacea may thrive in rocky, poor soil, but not in soggy, waterlogged soil. Compost should be used as a mulch around newly planted plants.
Coneflowers grow in clumps and require space. One plant will typically grow bigger, but it won’t spread through roots or rhizomes and take over the entire garden. Check the mature size stated in the plant description to help you choose the appropriate spacing because the final size of the plant clump depends on the cultivar. Leave 18 inches between plants if it is anticipated that they will spread to be 18 inches broad. Echinacea must be planted where you want them since they have deep taproots. They dislike being relocated after being established.
Echinacea plants should be planted in well-drained soil in full to part sun in the spring or the fall. Echinacea is also simple to cultivate from seed, but it needs a period of stratification—a cold, damp time—in order to germinate. In the fall, scatter seeds widely (after hard frost in the north and prior to winter rains elsewhere), lightly covering them to deter birds from eating them. In the spring, seeds will begin to sprout. One benefit of starting with transplants is that the majority of plants will bloom during the second year.
Does echinacea prefer shade or the sun?
Moderate/Watering: Full sun is ideal for flowering, though plants can take some light shade. Once established, these plants are highly drought-tolerant because to their deep taproots.
Echinacea purpurea may grow in a variety of soil types, although it likes sandy, well-drained loam with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. No additional fertilizer will be required if a few inches of organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, is applied around the plants in the early spring.
Echinacea is rarely plagued by pests or illnesses, and none are severe enough to call for protective measures. Plants do draw beneficial insects, particularly soldier beetles that resemble fireflies and eat caterpillars and aphids.
Companion Plants: Dwarf Goldenrods (Solidago) and Salvia are excellent companions, as are perennial Geraniums, dwarf types of Catmint (Nepeta), and perennial Geraniums. Shorter perennials can conceal occasional legginess. Perovskia, Phlox, Sedum, Veronica, and Monarda are companion plants that grow taller.
Reflowering: Even without deadheading, echinacea has a lengthy bloom season, but this method will lead to more blooms. Early in the summer, plants can be pruned by half for a later blooming period but a more compact form. There are few sights more pleasant than watching the small, golden birds wave about as they pick up the seeds, so leave some seed heads to serve as food for goldfinches.
Plant transplantation and dividing: Because of the taproot, elder plants might be challenging to transplant. However, it is possible if you dig deeply and leave a substantial amount of soil around the roots.
Calendar of Care
Late Spring: Only if the climate is exceptionally dry or if the Coneflowers have just been planted, add extra water.
Summer: You can deadhead if you’d like, but remember to leave some seeds for the goldfinches. In August, keep an eye out for beneficial army beetles and avoid harming them. In June, plants can be pruned back by half for later-flowering, more compact growth.
Fall: In cooler climates, a light mulch is good. Because the seed heads feed hungry birds and accumulate snow into gorgeous tiny puffs, plants may survive the winter.