The zinnia flower heads should be allowed to finish drying on the plant. When a bloom is ready to be picked, it will be dry to the touch and dark brown in color. An early attempt to harvest a blossom will provide immature seeds that won’t sprout.
Cut or remove the dried zinnia blossoms from the plant. Unless you don’t mind a combination full of surprises, make sure to keep kinds separated and labeled!
Harvested seed heads should be placed on a screen to dry completely on all sides. Depending on the moisture content and seed head, this could take a week.
Release the Zinnia Seeds
On a clear, level surface where you may work to collect the seeds, spread some paper towels. A paper plate should be placed there, and the variety name should be marked with a marker immediately on the plate.
To release the seeds from a dried zinnia bloom, gently “flail” the blossom, peel it apart, or rub it between your fingers over a paper plate. The arrow-shaped seeds are tiny. Some may still be joined to a petal’s base. In that instance, carefully remove the seed. Repeat this procedure with each dried flower you have, tossing the petals and saving just the seeds. Keep the different types apart.
Store the Zinnia Seeds
After the seeds have dried, store them for later use in a paper bag or envelope. Unless you don’t mind combining different zinnia varieties in your garden, separate the seeds for each variety if you have many. To help you remember what’s inside each envelope, label it.
Put the seed envelope in a glass jar with a lid and keep it out of direct sunlight in a cool, dry area. The closet works best. You can plant your seeds outside once the threat of frost has passed for the upcoming growth season.
Are zinnia seeds recoverable from cut flowers?
- How long can I keep the seeds I saved? If properly preserved, zinnia seeds can last for 5–6 years. Therefore, make sure they are completely dry before keeping.
- After saving for the following year, may seeds be sown right away? It won’t be as constant as saving seed and planting them purposely the next year, though I have definitely had zinnias sprout where I had allowed some to go to seed the previous year.
- Are zinnia seeds recoverable from cut flowers? Yes, if the flower has dried out while still on the plant. The seeds may not have been fully developed and prepared for storing if the flower was cut while it was in full bloom and dried out after being displayed.
- How can the viability of seeds be determined? By following these simple procedures for testing seeds, seeds can be quickly tested before being planted in the spring.
The seeds on a zinnia are where?
Grab the petals and remove them out of the center of the flower once the flower heads are completely dry and brown. The ends of those petals should be covered in seeds. The seeds will have an elevated spine running up their backs and will be arrowhead-shaped, pointy on one end and wider on the other. If taken from medium-sized zinnias, they will be roughly 3/8 to 1/2 inch long, less than 1/4 inch wide at its widest point, and brownish in color.
When should zinnia seeds be harvested?
Zinnias are certain to blossom profusely from summer until the first frost, regardless of whether you planted them in your raised-bed kitchen garden, flower beds, or in-ground pollinator garden. (If you’re not receiving as many zinnia flowers as you’d like, try following these suggestions to boost bloom production.)
Take a fresh pair of pruners and trim the stems beneath the blooms as soon as you see that they are beginning to wilt or look exhausted (as though their time in the garden is coming to an end). The best time to harvest flower heads in the Chicago area is in late September or early October, when the weather is getting colder and the blooms appear to be past their peak. You can likely continue to enjoy your blooms for several more months if you reside somewhere with a warmer winter.
Step Two: Let zinnia flowers dry
For about a month, hang your flowers upside-down to dry until they are entirely desiccated. If there is any moisture present when you store them, mold could develop.
Step Three: Store dried zinnia flowers over winter
You have two options: either remove the petals and save the seeds in seed-saving packets, or keep the dried petals on and just put the whole blooms in a Ziploc bag. The neat thing about this is that when it’s time to plant, you’ll be able to determine by the dried petals what color the future blossoms will be.
Step Four: Separate the zinnia seeds from the petals
Many seeds are present in each flower head, which you can separate by rubbing them between your fingertips. Each little spear-shaped seed would already be detached from the petal if you were to purchase a seed packet. It’s okay if the seeds are more tan than gray because they might not germinate. Still have a ton of it!
Step Five: Sow your zinnia seeds
Wait until the last threat of frost has passed before you even consider planting zinnia seeds. If you still have at least 60 (ideally 75) days until your first frost and you still want to enjoy some zinnia flowers this year, you can plant one cycle of seeds.
Choose a location that receives full light in your raised garden beds, a flower bed, or an in-ground pollinator garden. For maximum bloom, zinnias require at least 8 to 10 hours of direct sunlight.
You can plant zinnias utilizing what I like to refer to as the lazy woman’s method (trademark pending… just kidding). In order to plant in this manner, you practically shake the seeds out of your palm.
If the seeds are still attached to the petal, which is intended to enable the seeds be dispersed by the wind, use a small shovel or hand rake to cover them up a little. Give your seeds plenty of water.
If you’re the organized sort, you might use the colors of the petals you collected to grow an ombre field or a rainbow display of zinnias.
Take our Cut Flower Gardens course by enrolling in Gardenary 365. You will discover how to cultivate, gather, and arrange cut flowers in this online course. Inside 365, you’ll also have access to our entire course catalog for Gardenary.
How can you tell whether zinnia seeds are healthy?
Pinch a green zinnia seed between your finger and thumbnail to determine its viability. If it feels difficult, you could have a good seed. Next, lightly scratch the seed coat with your thumbnail. The coating should scratch off in little pieces. Your seed has an embryo if you notice a white “nut inside, and this should suggest an excellent possibility of germination.
Do zinnias reproduce on their own?
Will Zinnias Self-Reseed? Here, the quick response is “yes” There is a fair possibility that zinnia seeds will germinate and thrive the following spring if the plants are allowed to blossom and set seed.
Do zinnias reappear each year?
As annual plants, zinnias do not return year after year. In other words, the flowers go through their full life cycle in a single year.
Because they succumb to frosts so quickly, zinnias are extremely susceptible to them. You must either resow every year or allow some of the zinnia blooms to naturally wither and drop to the ground so that the seeds will naturally germinate in order to have flowers in your garden every year.
To gather and store flower seed for springtime planting:
- Allow the blossoms to wither.
- Cut the blossoms off.
- Shake and massage the seeds carefully while holding a bag below.
- Save in seed packets with labels for planting the next spring or summer.
It’s not too difficult to cultivate zinnias because of how simple and low-maintenance they are, especially considering the reward of the lovely blooms that appear in the late summer.
Where is the Best Place to Plant Zinnias?
Zinnias grow best in well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter, whether they are grown in raised garden beds, pots, or directly in the ground.
Should You Pinch Zinnia Plants?
Pinching the young plants is the key to creating the best zinnias with the longest stalks. When plants are between 8 and 12 inches tall, cut off the top of the plant, just above a pair of leaves, with a pair of sharp garden pruners.
Should You Deadhead Zinnias?
Deadhead zinnias to prevent fading. Either remove the old blooms once they have faded or cut mature stems to utilize in fresh bouquets for the home. To extend blooming and encourage branching, deadheading and routine harvesting are crucial.
How Long Do Zinnias Bloom?
For the garden, zinnias are a popular cut flower because of how long they bloom. From late spring until the first fall frost, zinnia flowers are in bloom.
Can zinnias be propagated?
Stem cuttings are a simple way to propagate zinnias and create new plants. In just a few weeks, the cuttings can be planted after being rooted in water.
How can I store flower seeds for the following season?
Once the flowers have finished blossoming and the petals have come off, perennial seeds are ready to be harvested. Take these actions:
- Use a knife or scissors to cut the flower head.
- Place the flower head’s mature seeds on wax paper after collecting them.
- Give the seeds about a week to dry.
- By removing any husks or pods, clean the seeds.
- Put seeds in a sealed envelope. Keep in a cold, dry area, in an airtight container.
- In the spring, sow the seeds. They can be planted right away in the garden or you can start them indoors early to get a head start on the growing season.
How are zinnia flowers harvested?
The extreme heat and dry conditions have forced many growers to scramble to tend to and harvest their stressed fields and gardens, including here on our farm in the Skagit Valley and throughout much of the Western United States. While many flowers bloom profusely in this kind of weather, it is crucial to know the optimum times to harvest and ways to care for your fresh cut blooms immediately after they are cut if you want your flowers to last as long as possible—especially with the added stress of high temperatures. (This is referred to as “stage of harvest” and “post-harvest handling” in the language of flower farmers.)
Here are some of my favorite hints for avoiding heat waves and getting the longest vase life possible from 10 high summer flower varietals.
Zinnias: To ensure a long vase life, zinnias must be harvested at the proper time. Wait too long, and the blossoms will swiftly fade; harvest too soon, and the stalks will sag and droop. The “wiggle test” is a pretty easy way to determine whether your zinnias are ready for harvest. Simply take hold of the stalk a few inches below the flower and gently shake it. The stem will be delicate and flexible if it is young. When you wriggle the stem, it should stay rigid and straight if the plant is ready to be harvested. Cut time has come! To create a long, sturdy stem, deeply cut the plant. Don’t be hesitant to clip off lateral sprouts on the main stem you just plucked; remove the foliage as well. Because zinnias are “cut and come again” flowers, they will continue to grow all season long even after being severely pruned.
We cut zinnias and place them directly into clean, fresh water that has either been supplemented with a drop of chlorine or a CVBn pill. The little conditioning pills, which are frequently marketed for gerber daisies, are actually ideal for all of the “dirty flowers with hairy stems that easily gather dirt and bacteria that can muddy up the water.” The hottest time of the year is when zinnias blossom continuously, and they also enjoy heat throughout the post-harvest period. One of the few flowers we don’t treat in the cooler before delivery or design work is this one. Simply said, we keep them out of direct sunlight in a dark, shaded area of our studio. These few easy steps will give you gorgeous, long-lasting blossoms that last 7–10 days in a vase.
Note: In general, certified organic agriculture does not permit the use of commercial flower food. Using bleach or hot water and harvesting at the right stage are crucial if you have certification. To give your flowers the longest possible vase life even if you are not certified organic, CVBn tablets and other hydration and conditioning options are worth the extra money.
Basil: During the height of the summer, we nearly always add at least one or two stems of Cardinal, Oriental Breeze, Lemon, or Cinnamon basil in our mixed bouquets of flowers for grocery store clients. When the flower heads start to appear and the stems start to harden, I pick the basil. To keep them from wilting, I treat them with Quick Dip (a non-organic alternative) or boiling water (an organic alternative). As these plants wilt quickly, be cautious to harvest them in the cool of the morning or evening. Basil doesn’t like the cold, just like zinnias, so keep them out of the refrigerator to finish their conditioning. The vase is frequently where stems root, and they should last 7 to 10 days.
The fuzzy, aromatic leaves of scented geraniums are a must-have for bouquets, but if you don’t take a few simple precautions, they could wilt easily. In order to avoid the heat of the day, I always attempt to trim the scented geraniums first thing in the morning. I sliced them, placed them in cool water, and gave them 3–4 hours to rest and condition before arranging them. Dip the bottom 2-3 in boiling water for 5-7 seconds or dip the stems in Quick Dip if they are still wilting.
Another flower that is prone to wilting is the hydrangea. Perhaps more significant than the harvesting stage is how you hydrate the produce after it has been sliced. My secret is to cut them when they are still chilly, use Quick Dip quick hydration solution, or cut them into hot water for organic production. I am familiar with some flower growers who swear by dipping the just-cut stems in alum powder (found in the grocery store’s spice aisle), while others would soak the entire bloom in water before use to prevent wilting.
Cosmos: Cosmos generally don’t have a very long vase life, but if you cut them at the proper point, you can extend their beauty. Cosmos should be cut when just one petal is beginning to unfold, and once that happens, let the vase’s other buds and blossoms bloom.
Sunflowers: Harvesting the blooms just as the first few petals begin to lift off of the central disk and removing all but the top few leaves will give your sunflowers the longest vase life possible. This can be challenging for beginners since it still appears to be “closed” and not ready to pick, but if you cut them early, you can prevent bug damage and enjoy longer vase life. These people, who are referred to as “dirty flowers,” may benefit from some bleach in the water or from being cut into a pail of water that has been CVBn-treated.
Celosia: When harvesting crested celosias, also known as “cock’s comb,” wait until the crests are fully grown (or a bit sooner is good too), but before the plant begins to produce seeds. Before plucking celosias with feathers, let them stretch and become feathery. Make sure to remove around 3/4 of the leaves after cutting and submerge them in cool water.
Cerinthe: Harvest during the coldest part of the day, then immediately treat stems by putting the bottom 2-3 inches in boiling water for 7–10 seconds, followed by a cool water bath. After harvest, stems become extremely floppy, but once hydrated, Cerinthe can last up to a week in a vase.
Harvest rudbeckia when the flowers start to unfold. Black Eyed Susans are infamous for fast turning their water murky. By reducing this and extending their vase life, you can expect a vase life of 7 to 10 days by adding a few drops of bleach to the water.
If you have any more advice or methods for gathering high summer blossoms and extending their vase life, please let me know. Please share any more advice in the section below.