Always use gloves when working with hellebore plants. They contain sap, which can make sensitive people’s skin react negatively. Waterproof gloves are advised for this task.
Before the sun rises in the morning is the best time to divide a plant. Select a day with a moderate climate, thawed and useable ground, and little wind.
What you should do is:
1. Lightly water the plant to saturate the soil.
2. Use a shovel with a 12-inch blade that is pointed, sharp, and long-handled. Dig an 8-inch ring around the plant’s perimeter, keeping your foot 8 inches away from the stems and foliage’s edges. Press down on the handle of the shovel as you dig to begin lifting the entire plant—dirt and all—along with it.
3. Dig and lift your way repeatedly around the plant until it emerges from the ground on your shovel. Remove the entire plant from the ground, and place it next to the hole.
5. To gently separate the soil from the roots, use a garden claw with three prongs. Without endangering it, expose as much of the root system as you can.
6. You should be able to see clearly where the roots that grow below the earth meet the stems and leaves that grow above the ground. The crown is the name of this gathering place. Turn the plant over. Examine it to locate the rhizome, a thick root from which the stems emerge.
8. To split a huge plant into several smaller ones, cut through the rhizome at predetermined intervals using a fresh pair of pruners. One or more stems, a piece of rhizome, and a number of microscopic roots should all be present in each cut part, or division.
9. Put the sections in the water-filled bucket. They shouldn’t ever be allowed to dry out fully.
What time of year is ideal for dividing hellebores?
Typically, hellebores live a lengthy life. They remain healthy and flower freely because to the regular mulching. It is recommended to transplant or divide a hellebore in September or October even though this is not typically necessary for the plant’s health. The best way to divide a plant is to dig it up completely, wash the crown to remove any remaining dirt so you can see what you’re doing, and then cut between the growth buds with a sharp knife. The plant will heal faster if you leave at least three buds in each division.
Can you separate hellebores?
Hellebores have flowers ranging from slender bronze to creamy white. They are indigenous to central and southern Europe, where they thrive in mountainous areas with deficient soils. These plants require little maintenance and are highly hardy. Deer and rabbits avoid them in favor of more appetizing food because they are hardy to zone 4. Knowing how to reproduce hellebores might help you increase your supply without going over budget since the plants can be somewhat pricey. One choice is seed, while another is division.
Hellebores can be challenging to raise from seed, yet in the wild, these plant seeds multiply rapidly. However, as it often takes 3 to 5 years to grow a blooming specimen from seed, most gardeners choose to buy an established plant that is already in bloom. Hellebores can also be divided, as you would most perennials.
The process will weaken the parts, so you need to make sure the plant is strong and well-established. The optimum time to try dividing hellebore plants is in the fall. Until the root mass adapts, a fresh Lenten rose transplant from division needs to be closely watched and given particular care.
Are you able to divide and hoist hellebore?
I inherited a yard with a sizable collection of hellebores ten years ago; they ranged from milky white to yellow, pink with flecks, to the deepest burgundy. They flourish in this soggy Welsh garden, which receives plenty of summer light but a lot of winter gloom.
Hellebores put on a fantastic display in the late winter and early spring, but their enormous, spreading leaves do make them a big space-eater in the summer. It is advisable to perform a hellebore “audit” to make sure they are making a profit for this reason.
How to handle hellebores
The greatest season for a hellebore audit is spring, when the blooms are in full bloom. Think about where you have your hellebores planted. Additionally, consider whether the color is appropriate. Perhaps the borders are gradually becoming a neutral pink color. The plant Helleborus orientalis is promiscuous. It produces a large number of hybrid seedlings since it produces large amounts of seed and doesn’t care who it crosses with.
The prized double dark beauty I had spotted in Tyntesfield a few years ago has finally taken up residence outside my basement window, where I can enjoy the multi-petalled silk blossoms while doing the dishes. There are numerous seedlings all around it that could potentially crowd out the mother plant. It’s tough to tell if these are kids with the dark double gene or if they are yet another mid pink hybrid from a cross with a controlling neighbor.
The solution won’t be known for several years because the children won’t blossom until they are considerably older. So now is the time to pay for them, pot them up, and give them to your neighbors who are willing to take a chance.
How to divide hellebores
There are alternative, more expedient ways to add more hellebores to your collection while still knowing exactly what you are getting. If you are careful, this family does split fairly well. Just after flowering is an excellent time to do this, while you can still clearly recall what color they are!
I always remove the leaves from mine in the dead of winter to highlight the blossoms when they appear and reduce the possibility of the dreaded black spot. You must be careful not to injure them when you raise and split them in April since they are just starting to put out new leaves.
Hellebores are best separated with two hand forks inserted into their crowns because they have a lot of thick, fibrous roots. Make sure each part is sprouting some fresh leaves. Depending on the size of the clump you dig up, you could be able to double, treble, or even quadruple your supply.
I favor getting these divisions back into the border immediately where you see a hole that has to be filled in rather than patching them up. Place them where you can admire the flowers—perhaps on a bank, by some steps, or outside that basement window—a true sign of spring as we stay indoors during the bitterly cold winter.
How well do hellebores transplant?
The common name for the genus of blooming perennials, Helleborus spp., is hellebore. Depending on the species, it can grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. The best time to transplant hellebores is in the fall, when they are dormant. Most easily adapts to transplanting is the common variety lenten rose (Helleborus orientalis), which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. For plants to fully recover after a move and resume flowering with their usual profusion, regardless of species, it may take two to three years.
How soon may I relocate my hellebores?
Each year, cover the soil surrounding plants with a thick layer of mulch and top it off as needed (for more information, see our guide to mulching).
An organic mulch, like homemade compost, is a fantastic way to enrich your soil with nutrients and beneficial microorganisms. Additionally, it conserves moisture and prevents weed germination.
Overwintering
Most of the commonly seen hellebores are resilient and don’t require further protection, notably the Oriental hybrids (Helleborushybridus).
H. niger dislikes sitting in cold, damp soil, therefore it need great drainage over the winter. Therefore, it is preferable to plant it in a container and maintain it in a protected area all winter (such as at the base of a south- or west-facing house wall)
H. thibetanus, a species that dislikes the wintertime rain, or H. lividus, a species that is only moderately hardy, do best when overwintered in a cool greenhouse, porch, or coldframe.
Caring for older plants
Helleborushybridus are often long-lived plants when planted in the right environment. Divide huge, aged clumps in the fall or spring to revitalize them.
Some other hellebores have a lifespan of five years or less. In late April, prune old flowers and leaves to promote fresh growth.
Oriental hybrids
To guarantee that the nodding flowers are fully shown, trim back the old leaves of Helleborus x hybridus in late winter or early spring. Additionally, this aids in reducing Hellebore leaf spot illness
These hellebores frequently self-seed, and the progeny can develop and cover the parent plant. To prevent unwanted seedlings, dig up and relocate seedlings before they grow too big or destroy seed pods before they open by cutting stems at the base.
Other hellebores
Remove the old flower stems and wilted leaves in late April after the flowers have faded to encourage new growth from the roots. If you want plants to self-seed, leave some seedpods.
By division
Most hellebores can be easily propagated by digging up the clumps and splitting them (for more information, see our guide on dividing perennials). Though you may also apply it in spring, immediately following flowering, early autumn is the best time to accomplish this.
Place the smaller clumps you have created so the first roots are 2.5 cm (1 in) below the soil’s surface when you replant them. For the initial growth season, water often until the plant is well-established.
Helleborus argutifolius, H. foetidus, H. lividus, and H. sternii can all be grown from seed but are not recommended for division.
Are hellebores pruned back in the fall?
Early spring or late winter, just as the new growth starts to show, is the perfect time to prune a hellebore plant. This new growth ought to emerge from the earth as little stalks. These stalks ought to still be encircled by a ring of the large leaves from the previous year. The old leaves may very likely have been harmed by the winter’s cold and appear a little worn-down.
These old leaves can be removed as soon as the new growth develops by chopping them off at the base. You don’t need to prune your older foliage as long as it is healthy and undamaged, but once the new growth begins to leaf out, you’ll need to make room for it by pruning the older growth. If you wait too long to remove the old growth, it will tangle up with the new growth and be much more difficult to remove.
Hellebores can be eaten by snails and slugs as well, and the thick foliage provides them with wet, hidden hiding places.
Do hellebores like shade or the sun?
- Hellebores thrive in slightly shaded, evenly moist, well-drained soil.
- Long dry spells should be adequately hydrated; once established, they are drought-tolerant.
- Hellebores thrive in soil that has been greatly improved by organic matter.
- The Helleborus x hybridus (formerly known as Helleborus orientalis) hybrids prefer a soil pH that is close to neutral or even alkaline; if your soil is excessively acidic, add lime.
- The Christmas Rose (H. niger) may take some time to establish itself; to speed things along, consider adding some magnesium to the environment in the form of Epsom salts or dolomitic limestone.
- Early in the spring, apply a little amount of balanced, granular fertilizer to the plants.
What location is ideal for planting hellebores?
Depending on the variety, plant hellebores in full or partial shade at the front of a border. They can be grown in pots in a compost with a loam basis, but they thrive in rich, well-drained soil.
When to plant hellebores
As long as the soil is not frozen, hellebores can be planted at any time of the year. The majority of hellebores are listed for sale from late winter to early spring when they are in bloom, but you might locate one in a garden center’s clearance section in the summer that you can plant with no issues. Keep in mind that hellebores detest being moved after being planted, so avoid doing so.
How to plant hellebores
Hellebores should be planted in the same way as other perennials, with a spadeful of garden compost and a sprinkle of mycorrhizal fungi to aid in the plant’s establishment. Water thoroughly and gently press in.
Watch Monty Don’s instructional video on planting and growing hellebores to learn about planting depth, soil preparation, and how to prevent leaf spot disease. Additionally, Monty discusses how to select the best flowers for immediate effect and displays the variety of his collection of hellebores:
How to care for hellebores
When blossoms and new foliage appear, trim back the thick, leathery leaves, and mulch the plants every year with well-rotted compost or manure. Once established, hellebores struggle to be moved, therefore try to avoid doing so.
How to propagate hellebores
Avoid dividing hellebores since they struggle to be transported. In order to develop new plants for nothing, gather ripe seed and sow it into modules. Alternately, allow the hellebores in your garden to self-seed. By letting them self-seed at random, you’ll produce a hodge-podge of various colors and flower shapes; you might even develop your own new hybrid! No hellebore seedling will be true to its parents.
Growing hellebores: problem-solving
Leaf spot, a fungus infection that causes unattractive brown and black patches on the leaves, is the major foe of hellebores. When you see damaged foliage, remove it.
Here, Monty Don shows how to recognize hellebore leaf spot and describes how to prevent it from spreading to other plants:
Advice on buying hellebores
- Garden centers sell hellebores, but you can get a broader selection at specialized nurseries and online
- Avoid double-flowered hellebores if you are growing for bees because single-flowered plants are the best for pollinators.
Is it necessary to deadhead hellebores?
As the flower buds begin to appear, late winter or early spring, depending on your growth zone, is a good time to remove the old, dead leaves from the plant.
You run the risk of destroying the lovely blooms if you wait until the plant has fully bloomed.
Older, decomposing leaves can also serve as a breeding ground for bacteria and fungal spores that can harm surrounding plants, including lenten rose bushes.
As soon as you see any sick growth, you should trim it to prevent it from spreading to nearby plants.
Following pruning, fresh leaves will emerge from the core of the plant and spread out as they get bigger.
Hellebore pruning is a simple process, but you’ll need the correct equipment. Use razor-sharp bypass pruners at all times.
Additionally, hellebores have tiny thorns, thus it is advised to use sturdy gardening gloves.
Continue to remove any broken leaves as the growing season goes on to give the plant a neater appearance.
Hellebores are forgiving plants, unlike some plants that are quite particular about when you should prune them. It won’t care if you keep it clean all year round!
Although hellebores are said to bloom in the late winter and early spring, they are evergreen all year round, so I also find myself cutting them in the summer.
Deadheading hellebores flowers
I frequently get the inquiry, “Should I deadhead hellebores? The simple answer is yes, but it will be more enjoyable to learn the lengthy answer.
You’ll be surprised by how long a hellebore plant’s blossoms last. Some of mine have been in bloom for months. But everything nice has an end.
It’s simple to deadhead hellebores. Simply cut off the old flower stems when they begin to wilt. Cut them back to the plant’s root system.
The Bear’s Foot Hellebore (H. foetidus), commonly referred to as “stinking hellebore,” is an exception. You should leave the stems on the plant since they contain the bloom buds for the following season.
By deadheading their blossoms, hellebores can focus their resources on developing new blooms rather than trying to preserve their fading flowers.
Some Hellebore plants produce flower clusters that tower over the rest of the plants. On mature plants, these stems have a tendency to become quite heavy and droopy.
Deadheading hellebores with all of their stems is a good idea when their tips become too straggly.