To make the Hydrangea more compact and portable, start by trimming the stems close to the ground.
Next, form a circle in the earth with your shovel that reaches one to two feet from the plant’s base. Any scouts that your hydrangea’s roots may have sent outside the boundary will be cut off by this.
Although hydrangea roots rarely go deeper than six inches, you should dig down about eight inches just to be on the safe side. Cut all the way around the plant with your cuts, then begin loosening the dirt by digging toward the center.
If required, use your additional tools to lever it out of the ground as you lift it. You can get rid of it however you wish after it’s loose.
Are hydrangeas difficult to extract?
Digging a hole in the new area is the first stage in hydrangea transplantation. It takes a lot of digging to move hydrangea bushes, and you don’t want your poor plant to have to wait while you make a sizable hole.
Choose a spot that receives at least some shade throughout the day. Before relocating a large, awkward hydrangea shrub, trim it back a bit.
It’s time to dig up your hydrangea after that. To release the root ball, move your shovel in a circular motion around the bush. A crowbar and several people may be required to pry a large, heavy hydrangea root ball out of the ground.
After removing it, place it in its new location, cover the area with soil, and saturate the root ball completely. You shouldn’t need to water it again until spring if it’s autumn or winter. Several inches (8 cm) of compost should be spread over the ground. When spring finally arrives, give it plenty of water during the growth season to help it establish itself.
The bush will require a lot of water while the roots acclimate to the new location if you moved it in the spring or early summer.
How far down do hydrangea roots go?
It’s simple to presume that a Hydrangea’s aggressive stem growth must be matched by an equally strong root system underground. However, the roots of hydrangeas are surprisingly shallow. They don’t develop a central taproot like shrubs and rhododendrons do. Instead, they develop in a slack, extending mass of fibers known as a “root ball.”
A hydrangea’s roots will spend the most of their time in the top six inches or so of soil. They do, however, have a tendency to expand widely in a horizontal direction. Many gardeners learned this the hard way when wayward Hydrangea stems started sprouting up far from the main body of the plant or invading their walkways.
As a general rule, you can assume that the roots of your hydrangeas extend at least a few inches past the dripline, which is the horizontal circumference of the leaves of the plant.
Can you remove hydrangeas and replant them?
Dig up as much of the rootball as you can while transplanting hydrangeas. You might need some assistance with this because the plant may be VERY heavy due to the fibrous roots that form a ball loaded with soil.
The hydrangea should be replanted in a spot that receives afternoon shade. In addition to ensuring the plant’s survival, this is also where hydrangeas love to grow, particularly in the South.
If you transplant your hydrangeas when they are dormant, which is the ideal time to do so, water them thoroughly once. They might not require any more water until spring, when the weather will warm up.
After being transplanted, hydrangeas need to be kept extremely well watered for the first and second summers.
Water deeply; this is the finest method. To water, use a hose as opposed to a sprinkler system. Do not, however, overwater. Daily watering or letting the plants dry out can both be harmful.
If the soil is sufficiently moist and the leaves begin to wilt, spray them every day until they begin to recover.
Avoid letting the soil remain wet around the hydrangeas if your soil does not drain effectively. This is particularly true for oakleaf hydrangeas, which will quickly rot if they are placed in moist soil.
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When is a hydrangea shrub allowed to be dug up?
A: I want to relocate a sizable hydrangea plant to a different area of my garden. What time of year is ideal for this?
A huge hydrangea plant can be moved, but it will be very heavy so plan to seek assistance. Make sure to remove the largest portion of the hydrangea root ball.
Hydrangea shrubs can be planted in spring or fall, but the majority of the publications I read advise waiting for cooler weather and moving the bushes in late fall or early spring, when the plants are dormant but the soil is still usable.
The plant’s mature, unpruned size should fit in the new planting location. Pick a location with soil that drains effectively. Rich organic matter in the soil will help it retain moisture. Keep in mind that soil that is damp can nonetheless be effectively drained. A spot where water pools or takes a long time to drain should be avoided after a strong downpour.
An excellent location will not be completely shaded in the afternoon. To blossom, hydrangeas require sunlight—not intense sunlight, but also not complete shadow. Each kind of hydrangea has a different tolerance for sun exposure.
After relocating, give the transplanted hydrangea one good soak in water. After relocating, avoid overwatering, but give the plant additional watering over the course of the following two summers as it gets acclimated.
A: I have two healthy fig trees (same cutting), but for the second year in a row, neither of them has produced any figs. Advice?
A fig tree is something I’ve never grown. I’ve looked at a few sources and can suggest the following. I am aware that the cuttings are from the same tree and of the same age, but I am unaware of the reader’s growth practices.
Starting with the potential causes of a fig tree not producing fruit:
It isn’t old enough: A fig tree usually starts bearing fruit between the ages of two and six. It makes sense that two trees that were grown from the same cutting will develop similarly and reach maturity around the same time.
An issue with gardening is having too much nitrogen. A plant with too much nitrogen will have healthy leaves but no fruit. The majority of the sources I looked at advised making only one sparing spring fertilizer application.
Fig trees don’t like to be too wet or too dry, which causes water stress. Make sure the soil has good drainage, and keep it evenly moist but not soggy or humid.
Does this resolve the issue? I’m not sure, but I think the first step would be to look at the circumstances that each plant is facing. Do you drink more or less water? Does one plant receive run-off fertilizer from an adjacent lawn if it is planted in the ground? Does the soil differ in any way? What has changed?
If you’ve grown figs and have any tips for this reader, send them to me and I’ll share them with them.
Even though it’s only September, you should get your amaryllis bulbs from the previous winter ready to bloom once more as there are only roughly 15 weeks before Christmas. If you followed my instructions, you would have cut the flower stems back after they bloomed and preserved the greens through the winter. You will then plant them this spring and let them to thrive throughout summer. The containers are filled with lush, deep green leaves.
Move the pots inside and stop watering them right away. The bulbs need to become dormant.
They should be kept in a dark, cool (not cold) place. Once the leaf has dried up and become shriveled, remove it. Before they begin to grow once more, the bulbs will rest for eight to twelve weeks.
Water the bulbs and relocate them to a location with bright but indirect light as soon as you see fresh growth. After emerging from dormancy, the bulbs should flower four to six weeks later. After 12 weeks, if they still don’t sprout, try watering them and moving them into light.
Until the first frost, I normally leave my amaryllis outside. Because of this, I had lovely flowers in February, when I really value them. For my Christmas display, I usually buy fresh bulbs, however after a while, I have a lot of bulbs. Can there ever be too many amaryllis flowers, though?
I have finally recovered from Lyme disease symptoms after taking medications and avoiding sunshine for more than two months. Every time you walk outside, take precautions against ticks to spare yourself a lot of pain. Although that is a story for another day, the garden is a jungle.
This orchard is nearby, accessible, and reasonable—only it’s 15 minutes from my house. James Hamilton founded it in 1974, and his twin sons Ron and Rick now oversee it. The family website states that the orchard started providing pick your own in 2015. On a Saturday afternoon, my friend Betty Cauler and I went and came home with a lot of gorgeous nectarines and peaches (Flaming Fury) (Fantasia).
There are now also apples accessible. Find a local producer and enjoy the delight of freshly picked, locally grown fruit if you are unable to do so yourself.
Native Plant Sale at the Unitarian Universalist Church, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., September 17 and 18, 414 Center St., Bethlehem. There are more than 1,300 plants and more than 55 different species of potted native perennials available ($3–$6, larger pots $10). The Lehigh Valley’s green spaces profit from the sale. While you are at the plant sale, complete the native plant survey for the Lehigh Gap Environmental Educational Center to earn a voucher good for $10 off your plant purchase.
- Planting:
- Plant pansies for early spring blooms and fall color, if you choose winter pansies.
- Mums and asters are beginning to show up on the market.
- Plant seeds that need a period of cold weather for germination.
- Keep fresh plants indoors until it gets cooler.
- Seasonal:
- Let the last flush of blossoms mature and set seed.
- For planting in the fall, place an order for asparagus, rhubarb, bulbs, flower and fruit plants, and shrubs.
- Frequently weed and remove the blossoms from any weeds that you are unable to get out.
- Keep irises and day lilies from setting seedpods by deadheading the flowers and trimming any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage.
- Lawn:
- Through mid-October, sow, overseed, dethatch, and aerate lawns.
- Apply weed control for broadleaf plants from mid-September until mid-October.
- As the weather begins to cool in September and October, prepare sodding projects and lay sod.
- Treat for sod webworms and chinch bugs.
- Fill up the lawn’s holes and low areas.
- Apply weed control made of corn gluten to the garden; repeat every four to six weeks.
- Chores:
- Don’t water amaryllis bulbs anymore. Let the bulbs dry up and enter a dormant state. Keep them dry and cool until they grow again in 8 to 12 weeks.
- Regular crop harvesting should occur, ideally every other day.
- often, water containers.
- Garden hoses and broken screens should be repaired or replaced.
- Remove any standing water
- Protect delicate plants from deer, rabbits, and groundhogs. Reapply taste or odor inhibitors.
- Regularly clean and restock birdbaths and feeders.
- Rainwater runoff should be directed away from building foundations by clearing gutters.
- Equipment, supplies, and tools:
- Verify the seed supply for planting in the fall and late crops.
- Pots and trays used for seed beginning and transplanting should be cleaned and sterilized.
How to Plant Hydrangea Flowers
Make a hole that is roughly twice as big as the container. The top of the root ball should be at the same height as or just slightly higher than the soil’s surface when the plant is placed in the hole. Backfill the hole with dirt, gently compact it around the plant, then treat with a balanced fertilizer. Deep breathing. Since hydrangeas’ roots are shallow, it’s important to mulch well to keep them from drying out.
How to Care for Hydrangeas
Water hydrangeas frequently until they are established, but avoid allowing the ground to become soggy because they dislike having their feet wet. In the spring, treat them with a general-purpose flowering shrub fertilizer. Wait until the plant has all of its leaves in the spring to clip off anything that appears dead to prevent destroying the bloom buds for the next year.
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Are hydrangeas difficult to grow?
No, actually. They are one of the few species of plants that can be grown in most climates from coast to coast. However, hydrangeas thrive in hotter regions of the country when plants get early light and afternoon shade. So that you can select the proper location in your garden, be sure to read the plant tag.
How do I make my hydrangeas turn blue?
Contrary to common perception, not all hydrangea varieties will change the color of their blooms. Only a few varieties of bigleaf and mountain hydrangeas can adapt to the soil’s chemistry and metal content. If you lost your plant tag, the university co-op extension office in your area can assist you figure out what kind of hydrangea you have. Next, measure the pH of your soil (the co-op extension can help here again, or get an inexpensive soil test kit). Acidic soil is required for blue flowers. According to the directions on the container label, add aluminate sulfate granules in the spring if you have a hydrangea variety that can turn blue.
When do I prune my hydrangeas?
One of the most typical inquiries is this one! Let’s get to it: Some varieties of hydrangeas flower on branches that sprouted the year before (known as “old wood”), while other varieties flower on both new and old wood. Avoid pruning after mid-summer if you are unsure of the type of plant you have since you run the risk of removing the blooms for the next year. Or you could wait to prune until the plant starts to leaf out once more the following spring so you can tell what is dead and what isn’t. Simply remove the deceased items after that.
Peter Kruger, director of plant development and sourcing for Ball Horticulture, offers this grower tip: “When the roots are wrapped about inside the pot, loosen them up and spread them out by scoring with a knife or separating them gently with your fingers before planting.” Although it may seem harsh, the plant actually grows more roots as a result, which aids in establishing the plant.
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