The zinnia flower heads should be allowed to finish drying on the plant. When a bloom is ready to be picked, it will be dry to the touch and dark brown in color. An early attempt to harvest a blossom will provide immature seeds that won’t sprout.
Cut or remove the dried zinnia blossoms from the plant. Unless you don’t mind a combination full of surprises, make sure to keep kinds separated and labeled!
Harvested seed heads should be placed on a screen to dry completely on all sides. Depending on the moisture content and seed head, this could take a week.
Release the Zinnia Seeds
On a clear, level surface where you may work to collect the seeds, spread some paper towels. A paper plate should be placed there, and the variety name should be marked with a marker immediately on the plate.
To release the seeds from a dried zinnia bloom, gently “flail” the blossom, peel it apart, or rub it between your fingers over a paper plate. The arrow-shaped seeds are tiny. Some may still be joined to a petal’s base. In that instance, carefully remove the seed. Repeat this procedure with each dried flower you have, tossing the petals and saving just the seeds. Keep the different types apart.
Store the Zinnia Seeds
After the seeds have dried, store them for later use in a paper bag or envelope. Unless you don’t mind combining different zinnia varieties in your garden, separate the seeds for each variety if you have many. To help you remember what’s inside each envelope, label it.
Put the seed envelope in a glass jar with a lid and keep it out of direct sunlight in a cool, dry area. The closet works best. You can plant your seeds outside once the threat of frost has passed for the upcoming growth season.
Where are the zinnia flower’s seeds located?
Zinnia seeds are among the simplest to preserve, and they might be a lot of pleasure to study about how seeds are made from. Sharing them and watching yours flourish in other people’s yards is also enjoyable. It’s one of the most vibrant and adaptable ways to share the beauty of nature and to garden the planet.
What does a zinnia seed look like?
The arrow-shaped seeds of zinnias are distinctive. They develop at the tips of the petals, in the middle of the head. Depending on the flower kind, there are distinct roundness, length, and thickness variations. As soon as they are ripe, you can gently pull a dried petal, and the seed will fall from the flower head’s center and connect to the end of the petal.
How to harvest zinnia seeds
Zinnia plants are kept in bloom all season long by deadheading. However, if you want to collect zinnia seeds, you must allow the plant’s older blossoms to wither, turn brown, and dry out so they can produce the priceless seeds you will sow the next year. They don’t have to all go to seed at once. Deadhead regularly to keep the plant producing buds and flowers all summer long, while choosing a few to leave on so they can set seed. I let yellow finches enjoy the upper blossoms and leave some of the lower ones among the branches to dry out because I have to contend with them for the seeds. I completely quit deadheading in the late summer and early fall. Existing buds will continue to produce blooms, but right now, before the first frost, you want to see some healthy zinnia seed production.
Making sure that the dried heads you are cutting are coming from healthy plants is the first step. It is likely that the flower heads are afflicted with the same disease and are undesirable if the plants have mildew, are infected with insects, or are weak from dehydration. Choose flower heads that are vigorous and in good health; size isn’t always important. Additionally, healthy, well-shaped tiny flower heads produce seeds that reproduce well.
You can remove the blossom once it has dried out and turned brown by cutting it off just below the head (no stem). Although it is preferable, you don’t have to wait until the head is completely dry and completely brown. When you notice the petals withering and the core beginning to dry out and split, you can clip the heads if insects or birds are a problem or you want to harvest a lot of seeds. The goal is that the seeds inside the head have become brown rather than being white or cream colored, as these are still immature and do not need to be completely colorless. Even though not all of the petals have turned brown, the example picture below shows what I would regard as suitable for harvest. The interior seeds have browned and are acceptable. Remember that dried petals don’t always turn brown as well. After the head has dried, they can still set healthy seeds while retaining some of their original color.
How to save zinnia seeds
The flower heads should be spread out in a single layer on a baking sheet, shallow pan, or bowl and left to completely dry for two to three weeks. They could seem as dry as they ever will be, but it’s a good idea to let them totally air out in case there is moisture still inside the building. It will be really frustrating to take out your seedlings in the spring only to discover that mold has entirely ruined them. It’s best to place the seeds and petals on something with sides to hold them because they will start to fall out as they dry and become a bit messy. For a couple of weeks, turn them every couple of days to ensure even drying. They can then be let to dry completely for a few more weeks. If it’s possible, keep the seeds alone because there’s no rush to separate them. The removal of the seeds might be an enjoyable winter project.
In order to preserve the seed structure, I like to store the seed and petal together. If you gently roll the heads, the seeds and petals will fall out on their own, or you can pick the petals out one at a time. If you are storing a lot of them, you can gently crush or shake the bag with the flower heads and petals inside to help the seeds fall to the bottom. I’ve used ziplock bags, brown paper bags, and zippered blanket shopping bags. Some people favor keeping the seeds in a jar in the refrigerator. The optimum location is cool and dry. The seeds should be stored in a location where they won’t become winter sustenance for animals because they are ideal for rodents to eat.
How to plant zinnia seeds
After the risk of frost has passed, put the petal/seed mixture straight in the ground 1/2 to 1 deep in the spring. They will easily sprout in 8–10 days if you keep them moist. They are simple to cultivate and care for even in my clay soil. I scatter my seeds around an open area, and when the seedlings are about 2-3 high, I dig them up in groups and transplant them in other places. If you choose this technique, don’t disturb the main root and maintain the plants moist until they are established. Each year, I get a fantastic colorful mix and flower variety since I prepare huge quantities with a variety of flowers. There will also be plenty left over to give to pals who envied your gorgeous zinnias from the previous season!
How can you tell if zinnia seeds are viable?
Pinch a green zinnia seed between your finger and thumbnail to determine its viability. If it feels difficult, you could have a good seed. Next, lightly scratch the seed coat with your thumbnail. The coating should scratch off in little pieces. Your seed has an embryo if you notice a white “nut inside, and this should suggest an excellent possibility of germination.
How are zinnias cut and harvested once more?
The extreme heat and dry conditions have forced many growers to scramble to tend to and harvest their stressed fields and gardens, including here on our farm in the Skagit Valley and throughout much of the Western United States. While many flowers bloom profusely in this kind of weather, it is crucial to know the optimum times to harvest and ways to care for your fresh cut blooms immediately after they are cut if you want your flowers to last as long as possible—especially with the added stress of high temperatures. (This is referred to as “stage of harvest” and “post-harvest handling” in the language of flower farmers.)
Here are some of my favorite hints for avoiding heat waves and getting the longest vase life possible from 10 high summer flower varietals.
Zinnias: To ensure a long vase life, zinnias must be harvested at the proper time. Wait too long, and the blossoms will swiftly fade; harvest too soon, and the stalks will sag and droop. The “wiggle test” is a pretty easy way to determine whether your zinnias are ready for harvest. Simply take hold of the stalk a few inches below the flower and gently shake it. The stem will be delicate and flexible if it is young. When you wriggle the stem, it should stay rigid and straight if the plant is ready to be harvested. Cut time has come! To create a long, sturdy stem, deeply cut the plant. Don’t be hesitant to clip off lateral sprouts on the main stem you just plucked; remove the foliage as well. Because zinnias are “cut and come again” flowers, they will continue to grow all season long even after being severely pruned.
We cut zinnias and place them directly into clean, fresh water that has either been supplemented with a drop of chlorine or a CVBn pill. The little conditioning pills, which are frequently marketed for gerber daisies, are actually ideal for all of the “dirty flowers with hairy stems that easily gather dirt and bacteria that can muddy up the water.” The hottest time of the year is when zinnias blossom continuously, and they also enjoy heat throughout the post-harvest period. One of the few flowers we don’t treat in the cooler before delivery or design work is this one. Simply said, we keep them out of direct sunlight in a dark, shaded area of our studio. These few easy steps will give you gorgeous, long-lasting blossoms that last 7–10 days in a vase.
Note: In general, certified organic agriculture does not permit the use of commercial flower food. Using bleach or hot water and harvesting at the right stage are crucial if you have certification. To give your flowers the longest possible vase life even if you are not certified organic, CVBn tablets and other hydration and conditioning options are worth the extra money.
Basil: During the height of the summer, we nearly always add at least one or two stems of Cardinal, Oriental Breeze, Lemon, or Cinnamon basil in our mixed bouquets of flowers for grocery store clients. When the flower heads start to appear and the stems start to harden, I pick the basil. To keep them from wilting, I treat them with Quick Dip (a non-organic alternative) or boiling water (an organic alternative). As these plants wilt quickly, be cautious to harvest them in the cool of the morning or evening. Basil doesn’t like the cold, just like zinnias, so keep them out of the refrigerator to finish their conditioning. The vase is frequently where stems root, and they should last 7 to 10 days.
The fuzzy, aromatic leaves of scented geraniums are a must-have for bouquets, but if you don’t take a few simple precautions, they could wilt easily. In order to avoid the heat of the day, I always attempt to trim the scented geraniums first thing in the morning. I sliced them, placed them in cool water, and gave them 3–4 hours to rest and condition before arranging them. Dip the bottom 2-3 in boiling water for 5-7 seconds or dip the stems in Quick Dip if they are still wilting.
Another flower that is prone to wilting is the hydrangea. Perhaps more significant than the harvesting stage is how you hydrate the produce after it has been cut. My secret is to cut them when they are still cool, use Quick Dip instant hydration solution, or cut them into hot water for organic production. I am familiar with some flower growers who swear by dipping the just-cut stems in alum powder (found in the grocery store’s spice aisle), while others would soak the entire bloom in water before use to prevent wilting.
Cosmos: Cosmos generally don’t have a very long vase life, but if you cut them at the proper point, you can extend their beauty. Cosmos should be cut when just one petal is beginning to unfold, and once that happens, let the vase’s other buds and blossoms bloom.
Sunflowers: Harvesting the blooms just as the first few petals begin to lift off of the central disk and removing all but the top few leaves will give your sunflowers the longest vase life possible. This can be challenging for beginners since it still appears to be “closed” and not ready to pick, but if you cut them early, you can prevent bug damage and enjoy longer vase life. These people, who are referred to as “dirty flowers,” may benefit from some bleach in the water or from being cut into a pail of water that has been CVBn-treated.
Celosia: When harvesting crested celosias, also known as “cock’s comb,” wait until the crests are fully grown (or a bit sooner is good too), but before the plant begins to produce seeds. Before plucking celosias with feathers, let them stretch and become feathery. Make sure to remove around 3/4 of the leaves after cutting and submerge them in cool water.
Cerinthe: Harvest during the coldest part of the day, then immediately treat stems by putting the bottom 2-3 inches in boiling water for 7–10 seconds, followed by a cool water bath. After harvest, stems become extremely floppy, but once hydrated, Cerinthe can last up to a week in a vase.
Harvest rudbeckia when the flowers start to unfold. Black Eyed Susans are infamous for fast turning their water murky. By reducing this and extending their vase life, you can expect a vase life of 7 to 10 days by adding a few drops of bleach to the water.
If you have any more advice or methods for gathering high summer blossoms and extending their vase life, please let me know. Please share any more advice in the section below.