The ideal flower for summer gardens is the zinnia. Their lively blooms and vivid hues inject a burst of brightness into any landscape or cutting garden.
In addition, they are simple to grow, allowing even beginners to be successful. With a few tips to make the long blooming season last as long as possible, you’ll be rewarded with flowers all summer long.
After roughly two months of blooming, zinnias start to produce fewer flowers. By succession sowing a new planting every 2-4 weeks, gardeners can extend the bloom window so that new plants begin to bloom as the older ones stop flowering.
How long does a blooming zinnia last?
Zinnia flowers, one of the easiest annuals to grow, are a vibrant riot of color. From late April until the first frost in the fall, the exhibition runs. The joyful flowers, which bloom in almost every vivid hue imaginable, draw butterflies and hummingbirds. They are a fantastic option for novice flower producers because they produce flowers rapidly and consistently. You can’t go wrong when you take into account their low care needs and the range of sizes and shapes.
When do zinnias bloom?
Beautiful flowers like zinnias are ideal for novice gardeners! These annual flowers come in a wide range of hues and variations, adding a vibrant pop of color to your yard and making them ideal for bouquet-making. Zinnias require only plenty of sun, warmth, and well-drained soil to thrive and can be grown without much care from summer until the first hard frost in the fall. They don’t have any significant pest issues and can draw lovely butterflies to your garden.
Depending on your location, the growing strategy may change slightly. When the temperature starts to rise, zinnia seeds can be sown immediately into the garden in warmer climates. Here in New England, it takes longer for the temperature to rise, so if you can keep the soil between 70 and 80 degrees F, you can start the growing process about a month before the final frost is predicted. Since zinnias dislike being transferred, sow seeds in peat pots that can be placed straight in the garden. From seed to flower, zinnias normally require two months, though this might vary depending on the weather.
Here are some more hints for growing zinnias:
- For your zinnias, choose an area that is sunny and bright.
- Zinnia seeds require sunshine to sprout, so only cover them with 1/4 inch of dirt.
- Keep the soil damp while the flowers grow.
- Thin seedlings to 6-8 inches apart for small varieties and 1 foot apart for large varieties when they are 2-3 inches tall.
- Avoid drowning the zinnias in water. Water intake of 1 inch per week is advised.
- To encourage the zinnias to generate more blooms, remove any faded or dead flower flowers. Deadheading is the term for this.
Do zinnias still blooming after being cut?
The extreme heat and dry conditions have forced many growers to scramble to tend to and harvest their stressed fields and gardens, including here on our farm in the Skagit Valley and throughout much of the Western United States. While many flowers bloom profusely in this kind of weather, it is crucial to know the optimum times to harvest and ways to care for your fresh cut blooms immediately after they are cut if you want your flowers to last as long as possible—especially with the added stress of high temperatures. (This is referred to as “stage of harvest” and “post-harvest handling” in the language of flower farmers.)
Here are some of my favorite hints for avoiding heat waves and getting the longest vase life possible from 10 high summer flower varietals.
Zinnias: To ensure a long vase life, zinnias must be harvested at the proper time. Wait too long, and the blossoms will swiftly fade; harvest too soon, and the stalks will sag and droop. The “wiggle test” is a pretty easy way to determine whether your zinnias are ready for harvest. Simply take hold of the stalk a few inches below the flower and gently shake it. The stem will be delicate and flexible if it is young. When you wriggle the stem, it should stay rigid and straight if the plant is ready to be harvested. Cut time has come! To create a long, sturdy stem, deeply cut the plant. Don’t be hesitant to clip off lateral sprouts on the main stem you just plucked; remove the foliage as well. Because zinnias are “cut and come again” flowers, they will continue to grow all season long even after being severely pruned.
We cut zinnias and place them directly into clean, fresh water that has either been supplemented with a drop of chlorine or a CVBn pill. The little conditioning pills, which are frequently marketed for gerber daisies, are actually ideal for all of the “dirty flowers with hairy stems that easily gather dirt and bacteria that can muddy up the water.” The hottest time of the year is when zinnias blossom continuously, and they also enjoy heat throughout the post-harvest period. One of the few flowers we don’t treat in the cooler before delivery or design work is this one. Simply said, we keep them out of direct sunlight in a dark, shaded area of our studio. These few easy steps will give you gorgeous, long-lasting blossoms that last 7–10 days in a vase.
Note: In general, certified organic agriculture does not permit the use of commercial flower food. Using bleach or hot water and harvesting at the right stage are crucial if you have certification. To give your flowers the longest possible vase life even if you are not certified organic, CVBn tablets and other hydration and conditioning options are worth the extra money.
Basil: During the height of the summer, we nearly always add at least one or two stems of Cardinal, Oriental Breeze, Lemon, or Cinnamon basil in our mixed bouquets of flowers for grocery store clients. When the flower heads start to appear and the stems start to harden, I pick the basil. To keep them from wilting, I treat them with Quick Dip (a non-organic alternative) or boiling water (an organic alternative). As these plants wilt quickly, be cautious to harvest them in the cool of the morning or evening. Basil doesn’t like the cold, just like zinnias, so keep them out of the refrigerator to finish their conditioning. The vase is frequently where stems root, and they should last 7 to 10 days.
The fuzzy, aromatic leaves of scented geraniums are a must-have for bouquets, but if you don’t take a few simple precautions, they could wilt easily. In order to avoid the heat of the day, I always attempt to trim the scented geraniums first thing in the morning. I sliced them, placed them in cool water, and gave them 3–4 hours to rest and condition before arranging them. Dip the bottom 2-3 in boiling water for 5-7 seconds or dip the stems in Quick Dip if they are still wilting.
Another flower that is prone to wilting is the hydrangea. Perhaps more significant than the harvesting stage is how you hydrate the produce after it has been sliced. My secret is to cut them when they are still chilly, use Quick Dip quick hydration solution, or cut them into hot water for organic production. I am familiar with some flower growers who swear by dipping the just-cut stems in alum powder (found in the grocery store’s spice aisle), while others would soak the entire bloom in water before use to prevent wilting.
Cosmos: Cosmos generally don’t have a very long vase life, but if you cut them at the proper point, you can extend their beauty. Cosmos should be cut when just one petal is beginning to unfold, and once that happens, let the vase’s other buds and blossoms bloom.
Sunflowers: Harvesting the blooms just as the first few petals begin to lift off of the central disk and removing all but the top few leaves will give your sunflowers the longest vase life possible. This can be challenging for beginners since it still appears to be “closed” and not ready to pick, but if you cut them early, you can prevent bug damage and enjoy longer vase life. These people, who are referred to as “dirty flowers,” may benefit from some bleach in the water or from being cut into a pail of water that has been CVBn-treated.
Celosia: When harvesting crested celosias, also known as “cock’s comb,” wait until the crests are fully grown (or a bit sooner is good too), but before the plant begins to produce seeds. Before plucking celosias with feathers, let them stretch and become feathery. Make sure to remove around 3/4 of the leaves after cutting and submerge them in cool water.
Cerinthe: Harvest during the coldest part of the day, then immediately treat stems by putting the bottom 2-3 inches in boiling water for 7–10 seconds, followed by a cool water bath. After harvest, stems become extremely floppy, but once hydrated, Cerinthe can last up to a week in a vase.
Harvest rudbeckia when the flowers start to unfold. Black Eyed Susans are infamous for fast turning their water murky. By reducing this and extending their vase life, you can expect a vase life of 7 to 10 days by adding a few drops of bleach to the water.
If you have any more advice or methods for gathering high summer blossoms and extending their vase life, please let me know. Please share any more advice in the section below.
Do zinnias prefer a lot of moisture?
The zinnia may be the best flower for indicating the start of summer. This annual that thrives in heat has vibrant, eye-catching spherical blossoms that provide color to any garden.
Cream, yellow, red, gold, orange, pink, rose, lavender, purple, plum, scarlet, white, and salmon are just a few of the many hues that zinnias may be found in. The bloom comes in a variety of sizes, from a few inches to three or four feet tall.
“May is a terrific month to plant zinnias,” said Gary Hayakawa, general manager of Fountain Valley’s Three Star Nursery, a wholesale producer whose plants are sold at numerous nurseries around Orange County.
Before the summer heat hits, zinnia roots have a chance to establish themselves in May, he said. ” They really take off once the weather warms up. In hot climates, zinnias thrive.
There are a lot of medium-sized types of zinnias in the nursery that grow 10 to 15 inches. The Pulcino, Dreamland, Dasher, and Peter Pan are a few popular medium-sized kinds.
Dwarf zinnias are also available; one example is Thumbelina mix, which blooms at 3 inches. State Fair and Dahlia-flowered are two tall kinds that reach heights of two to three feet.
Consider the following advice to successfully grow zinnias:
* Because zinnias are susceptible to fungus, choose a position with full light and no overhead sprinkler watering.
* Before planting, thoroughly amend the soil with homemade or bagged compost. Zinnias prefer a soil that drains well.
* Unless the plant is tall and unstable, plant zinnias at the depth they are in containers. Plant it a little lower than the current soil level in such instance.
* Give zinnias room to spread out so that air can circulate, which reduces the risk of fungus and leaf spot issues. Smaller kinds should be placed 6 inches apart from large types, and vice versa.
* After germination, transfer zinnia seeds into the ground or place them in tiny containers first.
About six seeds should be spaced evenly in a 4-inch pot for planting in containers. After they sprout, divide them into four plants. When they are about 2 inches tall, transplant them in the garden.
Work the soil well and amend before direct seeding. Then dig a shallow ditch with 3 to 4 inch high sides. When you irrigate, this will keep the water within. Place the seed exactly where you want the flowers to grow inside the ditch after leveling the soil there. Gently pat down the seeds after covering them with a quarter-inch of potting soil. Till the seeds sprout, mist the bed twice daily.
* To avoid fungus, water zinnias at ground level. Depending on the weather, water them deeply once or twice a week once they are 3 to 4 inches tall. Zinnias prefer slightly drier soil than most plants, but they are not drought-tolerant. It shouldn’t always be raining on the soil.
* Reduce irrigation if the month of June is cloudy. This will stop fungal illnesses. Once July’s warmer days arrive, fungal issues should go away.
Do zinnias reseed each year?
As annual plants, zinnias do not return year after year. In other words, the flowers go through their full life cycle in a single year.
Because they succumb to frosts so quickly, zinnias are extremely susceptible to them. You must either resow every year or allow some of the zinnia blooms to naturally wither and drop to the ground so that the seeds will naturally germinate in order to have flowers in your garden every year.
To gather and store flower seed for springtime planting:
- Allow the blossoms to wither.
- Cut the blossoms off.
- Shake and massage the seeds carefully while holding a bag below.
- Save in seed packets with labels for planting the next spring or summer.
It’s not too difficult to cultivate zinnias because of how simple and low-maintenance they are, especially considering the reward of the lovely blooms that appear in the late summer.
How many flowers are produced by zinnias?
Approximately 2030 stems per plant, though this number can change depending on how long your stems are cut. Zinnias can be used in mixed bouquets or bunched and sold separately according to color or variation. Zinnia bouquets with 10 stems look lovely.
Do zinnias reproduce on their own?
Will Zinnias Self-Reseed? Here, the quick response is “yes” There is a fair possibility that zinnia seeds will germinate and thrive the following spring if the plants are allowed to blossom and set seed.
How may bushy zinnias be obtained?
An armful of zinnias are the epitome of the summer. These cheerful blossoms, which come in a vibrant spectrum of colors, are a must-grow for any flower enthusiast.
Since they are among the simplest cut flowers to raise, they make an excellent first crop for new growers and are a consistent, prolific performer for the majority of flower farms and gardeners.
Since the beginning, we’ve grown zinnias, and each year, I fall more and more in love with them.
Because they dislike the cold, zinnias prefer to be planted once it has warmed up a little. However, in chilly Washington, we start our plants in 72-cell trays in the greenhouse 4 to 6 weeks before our last spring frost. Many gardeners in warmer regions of the world are successful at direct seeding their zinnias out into the field.
Around the middle of May, after the weather has sufficiently warmed up and any threat of frost has passed, plants are tucked into the field. On our farm, we work to give each blossom the greatest possible start. Find out more about preparing the soil here.
After preparing the planting beds, we install four drip irrigation lines that are spaced about a foot (30.5 cm) apart, and we then cover the beds with a layer of pre-burned landscape cloth to keep weeds at bay. With five rows per bed, plants are spaced 9 inches (23 cm) apart.
Plants can grow enormously large and require some sort of support if given suitable soil and a consistent supply of water. We employ a layer of horizontally stretched Hortonova netting that is 12 inches (30.5 cm) above the surface. Metal hoops that we bent using our Johnny’s Quick Hoops Bender are used to hold the netting in place. Any stake, whether made of wood or metal, will do. As the plants develop, they push through the netting grid and receive the support they require.
Because they prefer the heat, zinnias must be grown in full sunlight. I always grow them in cloth for the extra heat in addition to choose a sunny location.
Since they are cultivated in such rich soil, there hasn’t been a problem with disease, which I was concerned about when we first started planting zinnias this close together. Every two to three weeks, we succession sow zinnias to provide a constant supply of these lovely blossoms throughout the summer.
Pinching your zinnias when they are young is the key to getting the longest stems from them. Here is how to accomplish it: Use sharp pruners to remove the top 3 to 4 inches (8 to 10 cm) of the plant when it is between 8 and 12 inches (20 and 30 cm) tall, right above a set of leaves. This instructs the plant to grow more stems above the point of the cut, increasing both bloom production and stem length. The image up top shows pinching with a different kind of plant.
Deadhead any spent blooms if you don’t routinely pick your zinnias in order to direct the plant’s energy toward growing new blossoms rather than setting seed.
Zinnias must be selected when they are completely ripe in order to stay fresh in the vase. Use the to determine if a zinnia is ready to be harvested “Waggling test Just gently shake the stem while holding it approximately 8 inches (20 cm) down from the blossom head. The stem is not ready to be cut if it droops or bends. It is time to harvest if the stem is rigid and continues to stand upright.
Zinnias are regarded as a “Adding a few drops of bleach to their water will help clean up soiled flowers. Given that the flowers are quite sensitive to cold, do not place them in the cooler.
There are an astonishing variety of zinnias available in every imaginable size, color, and shape. Whatever your requirements, there is undoubtedly a zinnia for you.
Consider how many options there are if you’re looking for flowers in the peach-salmon color spectrum, for instance.
Giant Salmon Rose, Cinderella Peach, and Queen Lime Orange are in the top row, from left to right.