Peonies can be left in the garden unattended for a long time. But on occasion, it’s important to relocate established plants. To improve flowering, move peonies that are sheltered by tall trees or shrubs to a sunny location. The peony may need to be relocated in order to redesign a perennial bed or border. Plants that are large and robust can be dug up and divided for further growth.
The ideal month for transplanting established peonies is September. Cut the peony stems at or just above ground level to start. Next, thoroughly excavate each plant’s perimeter and its base. Keep as much of the root system as you can. Replant the peony right away in a sunny, well-drained area.
Large peony clumps must be divided in a number different ways. Shake the clump carefully to remove any loose soil from the root system after you’ve dug up the plant. Section off the cluster using a big knife. Each division needs to establish a strong root system and at least three to five buds (eyes). Smaller divisions will take longer to mature into beautiful plants.
The optimal conditions for peonies are full light and well-drained soil. Choose an area that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sun each day when choosing a planting site. Avoid standing in the shade next to big trees and plants. Compost, peat moss, or leaf mold used in significant quantities can typically improve poorly drained soils.
When planting a peony, make sure the hole is big enough to fit the plant’s root system comfortably. With the buds one to two inches below the soil’s surface, place the peony plant in the hole. (Peonies frequently don’t bloom successfully if the buds are deeper than two inches.) As you backfill the hole, compact the soil around the plant as you fill it with soil. then thoroughly rinse. Peonies should be spaced three to four feet apart.
Apply a four to six inch layer of mulch over the newly planted peonies in the late fall (mid-November to early December). Pine needles and weed-free straw are great mulching materials. Mulching keeps the soil from repeatedly freezing and thawing in the winter, which could lift the plants out of the ground. Early in the spring, before growth starts, remove the mulch.
Peonies that were transplanted might not bloom well the first spring. However, by the third or fourth year, the number of flowers should increase quickly.
Do peonies enjoy being in a crowd?
One of the most popular perennials in America is the peony. Their elegant, early summer blooms are abundant, yet the plants are tough as nails. Here are some suggestions to help you succeed if you plan to cultivate peonies in your yard or garden.
Be Patient… It’s Worth It!
Peonies are robust plants that can live for 100 years or longer. They can grow up to 50 blossoms per year and reach a mature height of 3 feet. However, establishing a young plant well takes time. A mature peony’s root ball would measure 3 feet in diameter and weigh well over 60 lbs. if you were to dig it up. The infrastructure needed to grow armfuls of blooms the size of bowling balls is shown in the image below.
Peonies have a different root structure than the majority of other perennials. Peonies have two different kinds of roots. Tuberous roots that are as thick as your finger and extremely brittle, as well as fine, fibrous ones that absorb water and nutrients. Actually, the thick ones are underground stems with “eyes that are actively growing.
In the fall, peonies are typically propagated. To do this, cut the knobby roots into sections with one or more “eyes. The eyeballs enlarge, turn crimson, and eventually sprout into stems in the spring.
Typically, a newly planted peony needs at least two growing seasons to establish a solid root structure. The plant may or may not produce flowers during this period. But as soon as there is a sizable root ball to support bloom production, you will see an increase in the number of blossoms each year.
Don’t Plant the Roots Too Deeply
Avoid planting peonies too deeply since some of their roots are actually underground stalks. The topmost roots should be covered by no more than an inch of dirt. You will have a strong plant but relatively few blossoms if they are deeper.
The earth will gradually compact around the new roots throughout the first growing season. This occasionally causes the roots to sit deeper than anticipated. If this occurs, gently raise the roots to the proper level. Keep the region under the plant’s root zone bare if you choose to mulch the area.
Encourage Good Air Circulation
Due of their hardiness, peonies have few natural adversaries. However, botrytis is a disease to which they are prone. This fungus disease, sometimes known as grey mold, seldom kills plants but can deform the foliage, decrease the quantity of blossoms, and eventually weaken the plant. Blackened buds that do not open, black patches on the leaves, and immature shoots that rot off at the ground level are all indications of botrytis. These dark regions soften and get coated in gray mold over time.
Unfortunately, botrytis is fairly frequent, especially in cool, wet weather. However, plants that are infected one year could not exhibit infection symptoms the following year. The greatest method to avoid the issue is through prevention. Make sure to put peonies in full light and away from any competing shrubs or perennials. Peonies were frequently planted in a row for freestanding hedging years ago by gardeners. This completely satisfies their need for enough airflow. Avoid planting peonies up against a structure or fence if at all feasible.
Know When and How to Cutthe Flowers
You can cut as many stems as you want from your peony plants after they reach maturity. However, it’s preferable to trim as few stems as possible during the first few years and let the plants keep as much of their foliage as they can. They will have the most energy possible to strengthen their root system as a result.
Use scissors or precise pruning shears to remove the spent flowers when the plants have finished blooming. Before the seed pods form, try to accomplish this. Take off the blossom and roughly six of the stems. As a result, the remaining foliage will be able to conceal the severed stems.
When botrytis is an issue, you should remove and eliminate any afflicted tissues to prevent the disease from being transmitted by mold spores. If not, allow the leaves to continue growing until the end of the growing season. Cut the leaves off just above the ground when they turn yellow. To reduce potential disease issues, gather and remove the chopped foliage.
Support the Stems
Especially when it rains and the blossoms become water-logged, the flowers of double and semi-double peony frequently weigh a little too much for their stalks. Your peony won’t fall into the mud if you give them a little extra support.
A peony ring, a metal ring with legs that ranges in diameter from 12 to 18, is one possibility. Excellent support is given by a cage formed of concrete reinforcing wire, and the rusted wire rapidly blends in with the surrounding vegetation. Stakes made of steel or wood are an alternative. After setting a stake on either side of the plant, create a supporting web out of twine. If you have a little more time, you may also use bamboo or weaved branches to create a beautiful and highly useful support.
And What About Those Ants?
A pleasant chemical released by peony blossoms draws ants. The ants do not hurt the peonies and do not aid in the opening of the buds. You can shake the flowers upside down or submerge them in water if you are cutting flowers to bring home and want to avoid bringing in any ants.
Planting Location
When planted in the appropriate spot with the suitable soil conditions, peonies are rather simple to grow.
The majority of cultivars thrive in zone 38 and favor a sunny location with good drainage.
In order to protect their plants from the heat of the noon sun, growers in hotter climes may wish to choose a position that receives some partial shade. Peonies will thrive in a sunny location all day in cooler climes.
Carefully choose the location where you will plant your peonies since roots may rot if they are placed in poorly draining soil. Raised beds can aid with drainage problems, and substantially altered clay soils are needed for good drainage in clay soils.
Soil Preparation
For every growing project, including producing peony, the quality of your soil is crucial. Spend the time necessary to ensure that the soil’s pH is close to neutral (6.0 to 7.0) and that nutrients and organic matter are dispersed throughout the soil column before you plant.
Although a professional soil test may seem intimidating, it is actually quite simple to obtain and will provide the finest information for improving your soil. Your local Cooperative Extension agency may evaluate the soil test results and offer guidance on how to supplement any nutrient deficits and how to modify the pH of the soil.
Here’s how to take a sample of soil:
Obtain a “slice” or boring of the soil profile from various locations inside your cutting garden using a clean trowel or shovel and a bucket.
To create a composite soil mix, thoroughly blend each boring in the bucket.
Take about 1 cup of dirt from the composite mix, put it in a bag, and send it to the lab.
Depending on the size of your peony cutting garden, it can be finished in under 30 minutes.
To test samples, there are many excellent soil labs accessible. After choosing a lab, make a plan to continue using it for all future soil samples; this will guarantee that your tests will be similar one year to the next. Most of the growers in our peony cooperative send their soil samples to Brookside Labs in Ohio since we have found them to be prompt, friendly, and reasonably priced.
Take your soil report to your neighborhood Cooperative Extension office for interpretation if you’re having trouble understanding the data when studying it.
They will evaluate the findings and provide you advice on the precise number of amendments required to increase your soil fertility. Before planting peonies (or any other flower or plant you choose to include! ), take the effort to improve the quality of your soil. Your future self will thank you for it.
When to Plant Peonies
The general practice for gardeners has been to order peonies in the spring and receive them in the fall, when planting season is. Depending on your growing zone, there is considerable leeway when it comes to planting time.
Warmer climate growers might wish to stay with fall planting because it enables the peony to establish itself during the winter before the summer’s strong heat sets in.
Many farmers have had success with planting peonies in the spring or the fall in milder climes. If you’re unsure, try planting in the spring and the fall; over time, the health of your plants will show you which is ideal for your microclimate.
Planting Depth & Peony SpacingHow to Plant Peonies
You’ve probably heard that when planting peonies, you shouldn’t plant them too deeply since you risk getting a lot of foliage instead of blooms. On the other hand, you shouldn’t put them too shallow either (or they may not survive winter).
Ideally, the root should be planted so that the “eyes” (or buds, which are found on the root at the base of each stem) are just 12 inches below the surface of the soil, giving them some protection without being buried too deeply.
A potted peony should be easy to put at soil level when being transplanted into the ground because it should already be planted at the right depth in the pot. With bare root peonies, it’s a little more difficult. Every root will appear different, and the eyes might not always be placed on the root as precisely as you might think.
Do your best to get the majority of the eyeballs in this situation at the proper level; mother nature will take over from there. Additionally, it’s critical to backfill the soil as needed around the peony roots to prevent air pockets from forming there, which could otherwise lead to rot from standing water or the plant sinking too far into the ground.
There are advantages and disadvantages to both techniques of planting peony; some gardeners choose to use single rows and others choose to use double rows. Double row plantings increase the yield from the available space, but they are likely to produce rows that are tightly packed and probably more susceptible to foliar disease because there is less air movement around the plants.
Depending on the width of the walkways between each row, peonies grown in single rows benefit from better ventilation but require less space overall.
Additionally, single row plantings may make it simpler to collect cut flowers because the entire plant can be reached from all cutting angles; yet, double row plantings have a fullness that is attractive to look at if you plan to have visitors to your cutting garden.
Plant peonies in a row with at least two feet between each plant because, although this seems like plenty of space, it becomes very close as the plants get older. When planted in two-foot increments, the green leaves of healthy peony will undoubtedly touch within the first few years of growth.
Consider spacing your peonies farther apart as available, and when growing in double rows, consider offsetting each plant to improve air circulation between plants. Raised beds should be at least three feet wide to allow room for roots to spread out throughout the growing area.
Irrigation for Peonies
Peony plants are quite vulnerable to some diseases, especially botrytis sp., which flourishes in conditions of poor airflow and heavy humidity.
Drip irrigation of your peony plants is therefore one of the best preventative steps you can take against foliar disease.
Numerous farmers are unfamiliar with the concept of establishing irrigation, but there are many readily available, inexpensive, and user-friendly systems that may be rapidly installed and endure for many years. The time you invest in implementing drip irrigation will pay off later on in terms of time saved and potential disease mitigation.
Use irrigation line with pressure compensating emitters if you are watering on a slope to ensure that your plants receive an even distribution of water. If you’re on level ground, simple drip tape may be bought for a very low price and, although being thin, may last for several seasons if holes are patched every spring.
Our peony cooperative’s farms get their irrigation equipment in large part from Dripworks. For smaller growers, Dripworks also offers a variety of pre-made kits and can offer guidance on an irrigation plan tailored to your growing setup.
Young Peony Plants: Years 13
A peony cutting garden takes time to grow, and the plants must be given time to stabilize before being harvested. Within the first three years, it is typical for a peony plant to flower very infrequently or not at all.
The plant may benefit from having time for root growth rather than the formation of flower buds, which are theoretically for reproduction, notwithstanding how disappointing this is to the grower. In an effort to promote the strong development of the roots, many seasoned growers would remove all the buds from their plants during the first few years of growth.
Having said that, there is a case to be made for allowing one blossom to open on each young plant to ensure that the root you received is the same cultivar as the one you ordered from the seller (if not, make sure to let the root supplier know so they can correct the issue).
Mature Peony Plants: Years 4+
Many growers say that their peony plants truly take off in the fourth year of growth. It’s an exciting time because the plants are now showing the attention that has been given to them.
Once planted, peony plants are typically simple to manage; just keep in mind to carry out the following essential tasks each season:
Instead of assuming, work amendments into the soil as the soil analysis suggests.
Maintain weed-free and well-watered peonies (note: although they do not like to have their roots in standing water, peonies do need to be watered thoroughly and regularly).
What’s up with ants on Peonies?
People frequently inquire about the connection between ants and peonies at our peony cooperative. In reality, ants visit closed peony buds to gather the nectar that oozes out of the peony bud’s exterior, just like bees do. Although the nectar provides the insects that collect it with carbohydrates, peonies can blossom on their own without the help of ants or any other kind of insect.
Which peony cultivars are right for my area?
How can a grower know which of the numerous lovely peony cultivars available are ideal for harvesting? In a nutshell, it necessitates investigation and testing.
Look for cultivars that grow tall, have strong stems, and may already be recognized for producing cut flowers. Plant features are typically indicated on the websites of root producers.
Double form peonies are suitable for beginning gardeners since they typically produce consistent blooms both on the plant and in the vase.
Planting a variety of bloom types and cultivars of peonies might be a wise move because some peonies are a little more temperamental or delicate than others.
Early flowering types may be preferred by growers in warm locations so that the crop is finished before the summer’s extreme heat sets in. Growers can experiment with a combination of early, mid, and late blooming cultivars in cool areas for a prolonged harvest season.
Our peony cooperative’s eleven member farms collaborated this winter to create a guide that lists the peonies that have served us best throughout the years. The guide specifically highlights 24 cultivars that reliably yield a large number of harvestable stems, can attain the required stem length required to meet USDA criteria for commercial stem production, and are the kinds that florists have told us they enjoy.
In addition, we provide advice on harvesting, cooler storage, and vase life as well as descriptions of bloom size, color, and form. The Passionate For Peonies Guide is available for free download, and we hope it will serve as an invaluable resource as you try to create your very own peony cutting garden.
Where can I buy roots?
Depending on the size of your cutting garden, there are various possibilities for buying peony roots.
Peony roots are widely available online and at nearby greenhouses for a compact and varied peony collection. This is a great approach to uncover roots that are not typically supplied by wholesale root merchants because these enterprises frequently have outstanding variety, including new arrivals.
Our peony cooperative frequently receives calls and emails from growers looking to buy roots, which we do not sell. Nevertheless, we are happy to recommend our preferred retail vendors, particularly those companies that have large collections of high-quality rootstock and offer excellent and prompt customer service.
Here is a list of our preferred retail partners. Aside: After the spring planting rush has subsided, many retail plant nurseries will offer discounts on their perennials, so now could be the ideal time to find locally grown potted peonies in your area.
A sizable peony cutting garden enables the producer to take advantage of greatly reduced wholesale root prices.
Depending on the size of root bought, wholesale peony roots are offered by the crate, which typically holds roughly 5060 bare roots.
In Alaska, we deal with wholesalers like Oregon Perennial Company, DeVroomen Garden Products, and Peony Shop Holland, to name a few, who are prepared to negotiate the convoluted logistical process needed to deliver high-quality roots to the far north.
You may probably locate a wide variety of wholesale growers who are willing to ship to your location if you are a grower in the lower 48 states.