How Big Is A Hydrangea Bush

Considerations to bear in mind while selecting hydrangeas for your landscape include color, size, form, growing zone, and bloom kind.

Hydrangea color

Think about the hues you want to incorporate into your environment. Each hue in the blossoms, which range from white, green, and pink to blue and purple, can dramatically alter your landscape. Make sure to pick hydrangeas that will blend in with your other plants the best.

Hydrangea size

Likewise, consider the hydrangeas’ mature size. While some only reach heights of 2 to 3 feet and a spread of 6 feet, others can reach heights of 6 feet and a spread of 12 feet. Compact garden beds, patio pots, and spaces with limited space are ideal locations for smaller hydrangea species. As a result of not outgrowing their planting space, they also require less pruning and maintenance. However, larger types will work well if you want to cover a sizable landscape area or grow hydrangeas as a hedge.

Hydrangea shape

When it comes to shape, think about whether you prefer a more organic, natural look or one that is more manicured. Some hydrangeas can be coaxed to grow into trees, but most will naturally develop into beautiful shrubs. Tree-like hydrangeas have a single trunk that rises to a ball of lush, emerald leaves covered in dense clusters of flowers. As accent items in the garden and in containers framing entrances, hydrangea trees may make a striking impression. Even climbing hydrangea vines that will adorn trellises, patio walls, or other buildings are available!

How much room is required by a hydrangea bush?

Hydrangeas have huge bloom heads and exude an old-fashioned elegance. How to plant and take care of beautiful floral bushes is explained in our hydrangea growing guide. Additionally, learn the answers to frequently asked questions like “why aren’t my hydrangeas blossoming this year?”

About Hydrangeas

These elegant plants are simple to grow, withstand nearly any sort of soil, and produce an abundance of blossoms that are unmatched in the world of shrubs for their stunning flowers. Clear blue, vivid pink, frosty white, lavender, and rose blossoms sometimes grow on the same plant, enticing us with their colors.

From container gardens to shrub borders to group plantings, hydrangeas are great for a variety of garden locations. Breeders seem to give us more possibilities every year, and gardeners have countless expectations for bloom size and color. Varieties abound. Pay attention to the species listed below to get an idea of how your hydrangea will develop as some require different maintenance. The joys you experience will be enhanced when you know what to expect.

Enjoy this tribute to hydrangea beauty and read our guide below to discover how to grow hydrangeas.

Where to Plant Hydrangeas

The majority of hydrangeas like fertile, moisture-rich soils that drain well. Compost can help improve bad soil.
Hydrangeas typically prefer some sun. In an ideal world, they would receive full sun in the morning and then some afternoon shade to avoid the intense midday sun. The Bigleaf Hydrangea (H. macrophylla), with its huge, prone-to-wilting leaves, is a prime example of this. Some kinds can withstand more direct sunlight.
Depending on the kind, place hydrangeas anywhere between 3 and 10 feet apart. Plants should always be spaced according to their anticipated mature size!

When to Plant Hydrangeas

The optimum season to plant hydrangeas is in the fall, followed by spring. The cooler shoulder seasons are the ideal times to plant shrubs because they will have plenty of time to build a strong root system before the intense heat of summer or the bitter cold of winter.
In the early morning or late afternoon, plant the shrubs. The plant is less prone to experience heat stress from direct sunshine because it is typically cooler.

How to Plant Hydrangeas

Gently remove the hydrangea from its container and examine the root ball. Snip off any rotten or dead sections, and if the plant is very root-bound, pry the roots free.
Make a hole that is two to three times as big and as deep as the root ball. The top of the planting hole should be level with the base of the plant, which is where the stem joins the earth.
After placing the plant in the hole, add enough soil to fill it halfway. generously hydrate. Fill the remaining space in the hole with soil once the water has been absorbed.
once more, thoroughly rinse.

How to Grow Hydrangeas from Cuttings

Cuttings of hydrangeas can be easily grown. They easily take root, and the process is a wonderful teaching tool for propagation. This is how you do it:

Find a branch on a mature hydrangea that is fresh growth and has not flowered. In comparison to older growth, new growth will appear lighter in color, and the stem won’t be as firm.
Make a horizontal incision 4 to 5 inches down from the branch’s tip. Make sure your cutting has at least three to four pairs of leaves.
Trim the cutting’s lowest pair of leaves so that they are flush with the stem. If you can afford to remove more than one pair of leaves, do so. Roots develop more readily from these leaf nodes. But make sure to leave at least two pairs of leaves at the cutting’s tip.
Remove the tip half of any leaves that are still pretty large by cutting them in half. This keeps the leaves from slamming into the sides of the plastic bag you’ll later use to cover the cutting (to keep the humidity up).
(Optional) Sprinkle rooting hormone and a plant antifungal powder on the stem’s leafless area (both available at a local hardware or garden store). This will promote roots and deter decay.
Prepare a small pot and put moistened potting soil inside. The cutting should be planted in the ground, buried down to the first remaining pair of leaves. Lightly water the area surrounding the stem to close any air spaces.
Wrap a plastic bag loosely around the entire pot. To prevent the cutting’s leaves from rotting, make sure the bag is not touching them. The bag can be supported by chopsticks or other such objects to keep it off the leaves.
Put the pot in a warm location that is protected from the wind and sun.
Only rewater your cutting after the top layer of soil is dry after checking on it every few days to make sure it isn’t decaying. In a few weeks, hopefully, the cutting will start to root! If you feel resistance when you gently tug on the cutting, roots have grown.

Watering

Make sure hydrangeas get enough water for the first year or two after planting and throughout any droughts.
Over the course of the growing season, water at a rate of 1 inch per week. Three times a week of heavy watering is preferable to shallow watering. Root growth is promoted by this.
All varieties of hydrangeas benefit from constant moisture, but bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas need more water.
If the soil is too dry, the leaves will wilt, and there won’t be enough moisture for the flowers to bloom.
To water thoroughly while keeping moisture off the flowers and leaves, use a soaker hose.
The best time to water hydrangeas is in the morning to protect them from disease and get them ready for the heat of the day.
Under your hydrangeas, spread organic mulch to help keep the soil cool and moist, gradually add nutrients, and enhance soil texture.

Fertilizing

You might not need to fertilize hydrangeas if your soil is rich. When fertilizer is applied in excess, blossoms are sacrificed in favor of green growth. A soil test is the most effective tool for determining your fertility requirements.

Apply fertilizer according to the type of hydrangeas you have. Every variety has varied requirements and will profit from applying fertilizer at various times.

Several mild fertilizer applications in March, May, and June are beneficial for bigleaf hydrangeas.
Two applications in April and June work best for oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas.
The only time smooth hydrangea plants require fertilizing is in the late winter.

Winter Protection

Cover plants with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw in the fall, at least 18 inches deep. If at all feasible, create cages out of chicken wire or snow fencing and cover the entire plant, including the tip, with the cages. (Avoid using maple leaves; they have a tendency to mat after becoming wet and may suffocate the plant.)

How to Prune a Hydrangea

Many of the queries from readers concern hydrangea trimming. It makes sense that it’s unclear because it relies on the hydrangea kind. Fortunately, identifying which type you have makes determining the best pruning strategy simple. Discover the fundamentals below, then read more about pruning different varieties of hydrangea here.

Pruning Common Hydrangeas

The Bigleaf cultivar of Hydrangea macrophylla is the most popular garden hydrangea shrub. (For more, see below.)

Hydrangeas with large leaves, such as Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), Mountain (H. serrata), and Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris), are pruned AFTER the summer blooms have passed. On stems from the previous season, these kinds bloom (“old wood).

Avoid pruning after August 1 since flower buds actually grow in the late summer and bloom the next season.
Dead wood should only be removed in the fall or very early spring.
To stimulate branching and fullness, trim one or two of the oldest stems by cutting them all the way to the ground.
Pruning the stems all the way to the base is necessary if the plant is old, neglected, or injured. For the following season, you’ll lose the flowers, but you’ll also revive the plant for subsequent ones.
The huge Mopheads should not be deadheaded (faded flowers removed); instead, you should leave them over the winter and trim them back in the early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). Deadheading Lacecaps is OK; simply trim down to the second set of leaves below the bloom head.
Avoid pruning unless it is absolutely required while growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) cultivars in Zones 4 and 5, and then only after blooming. If not, merely remove dead stems in the spring.

Pruning Other Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas called Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) are clipped BEFORE flower buds develop. On stems from the current season, these kinds blossom (“new wood).

When the plant is dormant in the late winter, prune. The plant will therefore grow new buds in the spring that will result in blossoms even if the winter kills the buds.
In general, avoid pruning to “shape the bush” and just remove dead branches.

Can hydrangea bushes be kept in check?

One of the hydrangeas that blooms on new growth is called Annabelle. However, if you extensively prune them, they will still bloom. If you prune them too much, the new growth that develops may be weak and bow when the flowers are in bloom.

How do I prune my hydrangeas? is the query I receive the most on GardenLine. The big-leaf hydrangeas, Hydrangea macrophylla, have a difficulty in that if you cut them back too much, they don’t bloom as much the next season because their flower buds develop in the previous summer. On old growth, the majority of the well-known blue mophead and blue, pink, or white lacecap hydrangeas produce blooms.

However, some hydrangeas do not bloom on second year growth, which furthers the uncertainty. Both the white-flowered ‘Annabelle’ and the extremely hardy Pee Gee hydrangea, Hydrangea paniculata ‘Grandiflora, bloom on fresh growth. Several kinds, including “Penny Mac,” “All Summer Beauty,” and “Endless Summer,” bloom on both fresh and old foliage.

Let’s first discuss why you should prune these bushes before moving on to how. Unfortunately, the most common motivation for pruning a plant is to reduce its size. You’re destined to lose unless you’re cultivating a shrub or tree in a bonsai dish.

Plants should typically only be clipped to enhance appearance rather than regulate size. I’ll say it again because it’s crucial: Hydrangeas should be clipped to enhance look rather than regulate size. The mature hydrangea shrub is an immovable object. A big leaf hydrangea will grow back the following season if you prune it one year. Replace your larger growing variety with one that is genetically engineered to stay short if you wish to keep them little. A few types are recommended later in this article.

Many lacecap hydrangeas flower on growth from the second year, thus they should be treated similarly to mopheads. For illustrated pruning instructions, download the pdf document found at the end of this post.

Pruning instructions for lace-caps, mopheads, and big leaf hydrangeas are as follows:

1. When the plant has started to emerge from dormancy in the spring, prune. You can tell which canes are alive and which are dead at this time of year.

2. Start by cutting all dead canes down to the ground and eliminating them. In order to avoid being tempted to leave unsightly, six-inch-tall stumps because you can’t reach to cut them any shorter, it is better to do this while seated close to the plant.

3. After removing all dead canes, assess what is left. If you still have a lot of surviving stems and some of them are older than three years, cut the oldest canes again at ground level and eliminate a third of them. New growth will be encouraged by this. Skip to step #4 if the plant is not overcrowded with numerous older stems.

4. Trim any remaining faded flowers to thin the plant. Working from the top down, trim the remaining canes back by stopping and making the cut just above the first or second pair of buds you reach. Some canes will be cut very little or not at all when using this top-down strategy, while others will only contain surviving buds close to the base of the plant, meaning you’ll be chopping off a significant portion of that stem.

5. After that, back up and inspect the plant. If there is a stem that is noticeably higher than the others, you can cut it to make it more in proportion with the others if you prefer the way it looks. Remove any curved, frail-appearing branches that trail on the ground.

6. Bear in mind that any green buds you remove could later on in the summer bloom. Do you like more flowers or a cleaner plant? Keep in mind that you may always cut those flowers to make bouquets, which would help the plant look better later in the year.

7. Prune Infinitely Summer and other large-leafed hydrangeas that similarly bloom on fresh growth. Cutting these plants short results in fewer flowers because they bloom on both new and old wood.

8. Do you want them to be small? Let it go. Plant “Mathilda Gutges,” which is my favorite hydrangea, as well as “Hortensis Compacta,” the diminutive “Pia,” and “Pink Elf.”

Hydrangeas like the one on the right, called “Mathilda Gutges,” are suitable for perennial gardens and foundation plantings because they don’t grow much higher than four feet. The hydrangea “Ami Pasquier” on the left can reach heights of over five feet and should be planted in an area where it will have room to develop.

‘Pee Gee’ hydrangeas can be pruned in a variety of ways. By pruning deadwood and one-third of the smaller lateral branches each year, some people help them grow into little trees. Remove these twigs, leaving just the larger, upright stems, and the plant will grow taller, resembling a miniature tree with many stems. Cut out any crossed branches or those that are growing toward the center of the plant rather than away from it after cutting the deadwood and those lower stems. Do this in the spring or late winter.

Pee Gee hydrangeas can also be pruned annually to a height of six inches to three feet. But because the top tends to grow thicker, the new stems that emerge will be dragged down by the weight of the blossoms. Pee Gee hydrangeas should generally be planted in areas where they have the potential to grow huge. Consider the diminutive oak leaf hydrangea, Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Pee Wee, if you want a white flowering shrub that stays small.

If Annabelle hydrangeas are pruned short, the stems will bend under the weight of the flowers since the fresh growth is weaker. These should be pruned similarly to mopheads, in my opinion.

Download this pdf of instructions with graphics to bring pruning knowledge into the garden. how to prune hydrangeas.pdf